Scissor Stabilizing Jacks

[Gobirds38]

How many of you use blocks under the jacks?

Are they more stable fully extended with minimal blocks or do you use many blocks and only partially extend the jacks?

[wiredgeorge]

I use 2x12 cribbing (cut into squares) and doubled (for just under 4" thick) under my scissor jacks as they are pretty much at the end of their travel if extended all the way. I also tacked some loops of para cord on so I can pull them out without fuss. I also put some of those yellow stacking blocks under my 5th wheels front legs as needed for leveling and distributing the weight a bit.

[pikespeakviewer]

This summer we've started using cribbing as well. Prior to this we used a block that was about 2" thick and then extended our scissor jacks until they reached the wood. We never really got rid of the shaking when the kids moved in their bunks.

With the cribbing (exact height depends on the site), we extend the jacks much less (about 15") and the shaking has been drastically reduced. I read somewhere that extending between 13-23" is ideal? Hopefully this is right.

[NH_Bulldog]

The less the stabilizers are extended, the better. I have a few sets of the yellow “Lego” blocks accumulated from a lifetime of camping so I typically put a stack of 5-10 under each stabilizer.

[mcmeadows1]

We use 4x6 blocks, cut to about 10” long, to use under the stabilizer jacks. Between the blocks and the ground, we use thick (1”) rubber (recycled tires) pads, about 12” square. This provides a level surface for the jacks to mount on, minimizes the amount of dirt, mud, water which comes into direct contact with the jacks, and minimizes the chance of establishing a relatively easy electrical path from the RV to the ground.

I freely admit that last point may not be scientifically accurate, but using the blocks and pads certainly won’t cause any harm either.

Also, using the rubber pads helps to protect the ground surface, especially asphalt, from damage caused by the jacks.

Finally, we also use the blocks and pads under the RV’s front jacks, for the same reasons as outlined above.

[FlyingAroundRV]

We use the lego type stacking blocks for a couple of reasons
1) They have a larger area thanthe base of the stabilizer which reduces the chances of the stabilizers sinking into soft ground
2) We use them to compensate for differences in ground level.
3) They keep the metal feet of the stabilizers off wet ground which would eventually lead to rusting.
But the stabilizers alone aren't the answer to redicing the wobbles. We use X chocks on the wheels as well. They made much more difference than the factory stabilizers.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by mcmeadows1

We use 4x6 blocks, cut to about 10” long, to use under the stabilizer jacks. Between the blocks and the ground, we use thick (1”) rubber (recycled tires) pads, about 12” square. This provides a level surface for the jacks to mount on, minimizes the amount of dirt, mud, water which comes into direct contact with the jacks, and minimizes the chance of establishing a relatively easy electrical path from the RV to the ground.

I freely admit that last point may not be scientifically accurate, but using the blocks and pads certainly won’t cause any harm either.

Also, using the rubber pads helps to protect the ground surface, especially asphalt, from damage caused by the jacks.

Finally, we also use the blocks and pads under the RV’s front jacks, for the same reasons as outlined above.

I would think that using a rubber pad under the stabilizers would make them less stable. The idea of the stabilizer is to provide a "hard point" between the frame and the parking surface. Using the wood or plastic blocks will disperse that weight over a larger surface area thereby reducing the chances of the stabilizer pad sinking into a soft surface. Those same devices will help stabilize by reducing the amount the stabilizer needs to extend.

As for "electrical isolating" the camper I'd prefer the camper frame Carty a lightning strike or other currency to ground via the stabilizer than thru me.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

The less the stabilizers are extended, the better. I have a few sets of the yellow “Lego” blocks accumulated from a lifetime of camping so I typically put a stack of 5-10 under each stabilizer.

Same here!
Started out using 4x6" blocks, but got tired of the weight & the amount of storage space they took up, so started accumulating the Lynx levelers new, from garage sales & fellow rvers leaving them behind, was able to store about 20-25 in about the same area as 2 - 4x6" blocks & weighed considerably less.
My last 5th wheel had the auto level system & I used my collection of about 30 under the 6 six jacks, more on the low side jacks. IMO the less the jacks extended the more stable the coach felt.

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV

W
But the stabilizers alone aren't the answer to redicing the wobbles. We use X chocks on the wheels as well. They made much more difference than the factory stabilizers.

I'll second that comment on the BAL X-Chocks. I got in a deal for two at nearly the price of one last fall. They make a huge difference. Although it's a short 25 foot trailer, I use both of them. More the merrier.

[NH_Bulldog]

We went a step further; BAL Extended X-Chocks and JT StrongArms

[Gobirds38]

I am having problems finding X chocks for a spread axle TT.

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by Gobirds38

I am having problems finding X chocks for a spread axle TT.

BAL makes two sizes. Check Amazon and Camping World.

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

We went a step further; BAL Extended X-Chocks and JT StrongArms

I installed the BAL version of the JT Strong arms on all four corners. One trip I was in a rush trying to set up the outside and beat the coming rain, I never locked the arms, just set the x-chocks. I realized this when we were packing up to leave a few days later and thought to myself that the trailer was still very stable. Funny what you discover by mistake.

[Gobirds38]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

We went a step further; BAL Extended X-Chocks and JT StrongArms

Where did you find your X-Chocks?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Gobirds38

Where did you find your X-Chocks?

Here is one source: https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28014-X-C...s%2C195&sr=8-6

You can also find them at any CW store and at most RV parts stores. WalMart does not carry them in the store, but they are available at WalMart.com. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bal-Produ...ilers/50279042

[Gobirds38]

Originally Posted by Bill-2020

BAL makes two sizes. Check Amazon and Camping World.

Thanks found them on Amazon.

[tech740]

We use 2-6x6 next to each other under each leg. Added a short section of ratchet strap as a handle. Secure with a screw and washer. Jacks are much more stable with less extension. That and X-Chocks took out most movement.

[Huntme]

I use one stabilizer jack,on my port side,and one on my starboard side,less than half way down,most times,and it works well for me.

[Millertyme76]

I use a half cinder block with an orange lego on top at each corner. They have some weight but are easy to handle. I have plenty of ccc so the weight is not an issue for my set up.

https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...256-c-5647.htm

[SummitPond]

I use a dollar store cutting board beneath each of my orange lego block pads. I found the pads will sink into the ground, especially if the ground is wet from rain. The cutting boards provide more surface area for the legos to rest on and are not "hollowed out" so they resist sinking into the ground better while providing a good firm surface for the legos. Be sure to get cutting boards of sufficient thickness; if they're too thin they'll just warp and sink in (ask me how I know).