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Old 07-13-2020, 11:27 PM   #21
Frank G
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Florida to Ohio drive 1078 Miles
2016 Ram 2500 Laramie CTD stock

Empty 22.5 mpg cruse set on 78
Pulling 6x12 3500 lb cargo trailer 12.4 mpg cruse set on 75
Pulling 36 ft 5th wheel 11.2 mpg cruse set on 68 (6 gear locked out)

The biggest influence on mpg is speed

Oil Changes $100.00 twice a year or 15K
Fuel Filters $140.00 Once a year or 15K

Fuel cost, about $0.50/gal over regular (this varies all over the place)
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Old 07-19-2020, 08:24 AM   #22
BulletOwner1
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Here's my humble opinion:

I like post #18.

To the OP: How are you using your TT? Weekend trips, vacations? Or are you full time? Is your truck a daily driver or full time work/TT towing truck? If the former getting a new more expensive truck to POSSIBLY gain added mpg, as said earlier, you'll be paying for that for a very long time. If the latter it may make sense. Even still, it's money out the door.

Now, if you're going to trade anyway, and you future holds a larger trailer, then look to a more heavy duty unit.

Good luck in your decision.
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Old 07-19-2020, 10:02 AM   #23
rs1718
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If you’re going to be doing a lot of traveling and going to a larger trailer get a 3500. You won’t see a mileage difference but you will have a truck that doesn’t work as hard as a 1/2 ton. I have a 2015 ram 2wd dually with the aisin transmission and 3.73 gears. I haul a 36ft toy hauler that weighs 15500 pounds loaded and I go coast to coast. My worst tank has been 9mpg best is 12mpg. For the most part 10.5 is my average.
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Old 07-19-2020, 02:57 PM   #24
AZWANDERERS
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I put over 16k miles on our 35' toy hauler (Genesis Supreme) last year while towing with a 3500 diesel Ram (one long trip we had the atv so we were heavy but not overloaded). Rock solid in the wind (we hit 45-50 mph winds a time or two) and between truckers. Between the flats (not many), mountains/long uphill grades, freeway and secondary roads, we average 10 mpg. I use a cetain booster.
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Old 07-19-2020, 04:21 PM   #25
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I have a friend that has a 2017 Ram 3500 with the 6.4 Litre Hemi Gas not sure what his gear ratios are but he has pretty much the identical trailer to you and he's been averaging 12 around towns and 16 on the highway. I have also read the same sort of numbers on the RAM Forums.
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Old 07-20-2020, 10:01 AM   #26
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Got a 19 , 2500HD, diesel, pull a 27 Foot TT. About 7K. Get around 10 to 14 MPH. If I want to pass someone going up a hill I can and I do. It is nice have power when you need it. Flat roads I set cruise control.
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Old 07-20-2020, 08:35 PM   #27
Harried Harry
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I think one of the major differences you would find between your current 1/2 ton and either a 3/4 ton or a one ton is the difference in the way they are constructed. Both the HD type of units are called Heavy Duty for a reason. One is the brakes, springs, engine, transmission are much stronger and designed for heavy duty, long term operation pulling/towing/hauling heavy loads. If a dually (DRW) then you will have a more stable platform to tow or haul heavy loads. This is true if you have a gas engine or a diesel engine. One of the other major differences is in the load capacity. The HD units, regardless of manufacturer, are designed to handle the load. The 1/2 tons are not designed this way.

The post in item 18 is spot on, it takes years to pay off the cost of a new truck. Now a Good used truck is usually a better buy since the depreciation for the first few years is already factored into the selling price (usually but not always). If you decide to upgrade, I also recommend the one ton. The cost difference between the 3/4 and the one ton is very small, but your load and/or towing capacity is usually much larger. You can also get better gear ratios for what you are buying, but you may need to wait till your specific model shows up in your area, unless you are willing to travel for it.

All these are things you should consider before you make your decision, which I hope you do. One advantage of a one ton is you usually won't need to change trucks again just because you decide to change your trailer for a larger one or a different style. Most of the time, a one ton will handle what you want to tow, within reason. Good luck!
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Old 07-27-2020, 11:22 PM   #28
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I've got a Sprinter 29DB TT. It's 7500lbs dry. On my 2011 Ram 1500 5.7L I got about 8mpg. Even a little wind and I was drifting lanes. I traded that in on a 2018 Ram 2500 Diesel. Now towing at 60mph I get 14mpg. At 70mph I get 12.5mpg. My mother had the 1500 before me and towing her trailer she got 9mpg. With her 2500 Powerwagon with the 6.4L she gets 9mpg. Driving around town mpg is worse but towing is the same. She said the 26ft trailer she pulls barely feels there.

A few things to keep in mind:
The 1500 drove much nicer unloaded. Loaded it felt light and the suspension flexed quite a bit. I was running the andersen hitch (setup on a cat scale) and though it didn't sway, it would pull me into other lanes when an 18 wheeler passed with light wind. The 5.7L had decent power but the rest of the truck felt lacking. I also had just shy of 1000lbs of tongue weight unloaded and the hitch was only rated for 1050lbs. There are upgrades but they take away from payload.

The 2500 is a solid built truck. The bed is higher which is a negative for me. I wanted the pulling power of the diesel. Keep in mind the diesel takes 700lbs from you payload. the 1500 had 1250lbs of payload, the 2500 diesel has 1950lbs of payload. If you get the 6.4L you get 2650lbs of payload. So basically, if you get the diesel in a 2500 you can't tow a fifth wheel (or much of one) legally. Today I didn't push my 7 pin connector in all the way. I didn't notice until I saw my camera wasn't working. The brakes on the 2500 are considerably better. Also I've messed up my weight distribution and though I can tell, the suspension can handle the screw up.

Bottom lines (in my opinion):
If you're going to tow more than 27ft trailer or about 7000lbs, get at least a 2500. You'll never regret the safety factor and ease of towing. If you want to tow a fifth wheel get a 3500. For a TT and slightly better suspension get a 2500. Get the gas for extra payload and less maintenance. The diesel has more torque, won't struggle in high altitudes, lasts longer, and gets better mileage, but is more expensive and to maintain.
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:18 AM   #29
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We just pulled a 29' Salem (Forest River) From Minnesota to Memphis at 70 MPH. We got 10.5 with the F-450's 4:30 gearing. Actual mileage, not some dreamland mileage you might hear about around the campfire. Danny (TT) said it earlier; going to be pretty much the same, no matter the hauler. Do NOT wander around the new truck lot with visions of 17 MPG.
We just pulled back in to Chetek, Wisconsin on the return trip, empty. I drove 77 the entire distance and mileage was 16.4 to 17.1 MPG. Just about all that 4:30 gears and speeds in the 70's will offer.
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:39 AM   #30
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I think at the end of the day RVing and gas mileage are like oil and water; they don't, and won't, mix. On a TV I've never even considered mileage or what I'm getting (except when I'm running low looking for a station ); I just want it to do what it's supposed to....tow. The expense of fuel is just part of the cost to play and a 1-2mpg movement up or down is negligible at the end of the day . JMO
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Old 07-28-2020, 11:03 AM   #31
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Reminds me of my boating days. There are two types of boaters, powerboaters and sailboaters. Powerboaters' don't ask "how much fuel does it b urn" but rather "how much fuel does it hold". Sailboaters were willing to give up space, comfort, and speed in order to move economically with wind power.

Campers are much like boaters. Those that choose lot's of room, comfort and speed are less concerned with minimal fuel usage gains and more concerned with how much fuel can be held onboard. The campers that are concerned with fuel milage or carbon footprints are more likely going to tent camp. From a hybrid electric vehicle or use a pop up behind a small lightweight tow vehicle.

JMHO
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:13 PM   #32
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I am leaving money for a 600 mile round trip. I will let you know. My rig is older a 99 F-250 w/ 7.3. I normally get 13 mpg all day long dry. I think I got about 11 mpg when headed to New York but that was a lot of hills and mountains. We just upgraded from a 19’ to a 26’ with a slide so I will be interested to see what I get mileage wise.

I agree with everyone so far that the 350/3500 is the way to go. Also if you are like me and only pull the camper 2-3 times a year a diesel isn’t worth the cost, maintenance, headaches about water in the fuel, etc. if you are dead set on one I hope she gives you years of reliable service. I have had my truck for 12 years and pull a heavy construction trailer frequently. This will be my last diesel. I have had the engine of this one out and did it all myself. The newer ones are not home mechanic friendly. And the technology in the newer gassers makes stuff a lot easier IMHO.

I will update when I hit the road and get some miles under the belt.
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Old 08-03-2020, 08:28 PM   #33
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Okay. 250 ish miles to destination netted me 10.2 mpg. That was doing an average of 63 mph. Camper weighing in at 7,000 ish pounds. She’s an old girl w/ 304,000 miles on her but she gets the job done.
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Old 08-04-2020, 06:38 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
I think at the end of the day RVing and gas mileage are like oil and water; they don't, and won't, mix. On a TV I've never even considered mileage or what I'm getting (except when I'm running low looking for a station ); I just want it to do what it's supposed to....tow. The expense of fuel is just part of the cost to play and a 1-2mpg movement up or down is negligible at the end of the day . JMO

Dunno if they are oil and water; my clunker gets about 13 mpg NOT dragging my 5ver and with the 5ver 11 mpg. I think the fact that the truck is so darn heavy on its own kind of makes the delta a tad smaller. I think if I had a little light truck the delta might be a tad larger. I also think the little light truck is going to work a bit harder and thus decrease mpg against its empty errand running mpg.
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