Atwood Refrigerator HE-0601 not working on Gas

[GeneB]

Our Atwood refrigerator HE-0601 will no start on propane.
When pushing on button I get spark at burner & propane lights. Spark & Blue flame continues for about 30 sec then gas valve shuts off & spark stops. Starts again & get spark & flame 2 more cycles.
Have tried several times with same result. Have 13 VDC at circuit board & at hear sensor in stack (new sensor)
Cleaned burner slots & tip of electrode wire. Also held lighter to tip to make sure it was getting lots of heat. No help
Anything else to try before I spend $150 on new board?

[ChuckS]

I’d review this service manual and our fridge into diagnostic mode to see if you can retrieve an error code to aid in your repair efforts.

I’d also remove flu stack and clean and check burner alignment. Make sure the hi temp switch hasn’t opened up as well although I think if this did it wouldn’t work on 120 vac

Link

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...0601-Rev-4.pdf

[JRTJH]

From your description of what's happening, the ignitor works, the flame burns, then within 30 seconds it goes out. It reignites to repeat that cycle two additional times and on the third attempt, the refrigerator goes into "lockout".

That is "normal operation" for the refrigerator. I'd suspect that it's the flame sensor circuit that's not operational. You say you've changed out the flame sensor (in the chimney) so the only other possibilities are the wiring contacts/wire from the sensor to the board (possibly a shorted wire from rubbing the insulation) or it's the sensor monitor circuit on the actual control board.

[GeneB]

I have replaced the circuit board with no change. Still won't stay lit. The heat sensor I replaced (in the chimney) is for over heating. I just shuts off power to board if it gets too hot. I have power thru sensor.
Only thing left it the spark electrode. I think this is also the flame sensor, because I see no other sensor wires back to board.
I bought a new one and went to install today.
the electrode on the new part is at a different orientation from the mounting tab hole then old one. I tried to move the tab around the insulator but it won't move. Don't want to try too hard until I see if someone here has ran into this before.

[chuckster57]

Same P/N? I wonder if you can bend the rod.

[GeneB]

Tried the new spark electrode by clamping it to bracket with vice grips=No Help
Measured propane flow going into gas valve 12" water=No Help
Cleaned old spark electrode and reinstalled =No Help
Checked DC volts at Control board 13.5=No Help
Checked Diagnostic Code on control panel. Code is 001 which is "Fridge has been operated at severe angle for short period of time" Warning only. RV has been sitting at 1* angle since Labor Day. It didn't work before then. It did work going to Petoskey Mi 1st week in August.

The spark electrode p/n in my book is 14036 which I couldn't find in stock on line. I ordered 14068 which poped up in my search. Wire lead is longer on 14068. If it worked I would put new mounting hole in bracket

Running out of ideas

[chuckster57]

Do you have the ability to measure gas pressure at the orifice? There should be a plug in the gas valve assembly, and it should only have pressure when the gas valve is open.

With everything you have done, I’m leaning towards a control board.

[Smurfman]

Gene - Any update on your issue from 2020... I have the exact same issue on my 2014 Keystone Bullet.

Runs on 120V (my HE-0801 is not 12V capable)

Switch to gas, it starts ticking for ignition, gas flows, lights, blue flame, KEEPS TICKING and about 20-30 seconds it turns off.

I was looking at replacing the TCO on the flu stack, but then was wondering the other components listed. I am not well versed in this stuff... (there is a silver lipstick sized device going into the flu with a white insulated wire and green ground) not sure what that part lists as.

But I read your post and wanted to know what you found out to make yours work? Please share.

[chuckster57]

The igniter is also the flame sensor. Worked with a guy that claimed cleaning the ceramic with WD-40 fixed lots of issues.

You need to make sure the tip is in the flame.

[GeneB]

I sold the rv but fixed it before selling.
The problem was the solenoid. It was not opening all the way. What fooled me was it would click and gas would pass and the flame would come on and then time out.
The solenoid plunger was only opening part way and not letting enough gas to flow. I looked at a friends unit and saw his flame much larger & stronger providing a hotter flame to the flame sensor. I replaced the solenoid and it started working

Good Luck