Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Community Forums > Full-timers & Snowbirds
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-05-2019, 01:47 PM   #1
Nomadicchefs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
Condensation between walls is damaging slide floor

At first the wet carpet in the corner seemed like a leak. So we resealed everything, everywhere. To my sad realization, this was not the problem.

It seems that the moisture I have been seeing was in fact condensation in between the walls that is running down and hitting the floor then out from behind the luan panels and onto the carpet. I took the wall off, pulled the carpet back, and have put a heater on this corner. The cardboard looking material is drying slowly, but what can I do to keep it from continuing to do this? Different insulation?

This is the side wall of my slide. You can see from the pictures, the framing is very wet. The floor is wet too. It dries some while the heater is on it, but when night time comes and it's cold out, the condensation starts all over again.

I run a dehumidifier daily as well as having a window on either side of the camper cracked for air circulation. The slide floor has always been cold during winter months, but this winter has been extremely cold and this much moisture is worrying me that the floor is going to rot out at any moment.

The back wall of the slide is just the outside metal skin, cheap fiberglass insulation then the luan panel. When I look at it, I see the condensation dripping down and in behind the framing boards, but the floor nor the framing board is wet there. Only against this side wall of misery.


The other side wall gets more sun and I haven't had any problems on that side. I have had an rv tech check the seals, etc. And it is good to go. I can't just wall it up though without solving this moisture running all over the place problem. Any ideas?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20190305_095817.jpg
Views:	546
Size:	178.9 KB
ID:	20555   Click image for larger version

Name:	20190305_154316.jpg
Views:	509
Size:	184.3 KB
ID:	20556   Click image for larger version

Name:	20190305_154321.jpg
Views:	541
Size:	210.0 KB
ID:	20557  
Nomadicchefs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 02:11 PM   #2
KeithInUpstateNY
Senior Member
 
KeithInUpstateNY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Potsdam
Posts: 319
I had condensation problems in my dinette slide during the fall months here in upstate NY the two years I had that trailer. (I "downgraded" last year to a no slide model last year.)

You said you sealed everything you can and the problem is worse at night, so assuming there is no ice dam on the roof of the slide my first thought would be to bring the slide in before you go to bed and put it out in the morning until you get a more permanent solution. Inconvenient, but there will be a lot less surface area to cool down. Heavy drapes, or even a blanket hung calling to floor inside the back (outside) wall will create an air pocket behind it and may wick some of the moisture. Long term, rigid foam insulation will provide a higher R value than the factory fiberglass. Just be sure to get the best friction fit for each space you can and seal the inside edges where it meets the framing so moisture can't get behind it. Good luck and keep us posted.
__________________


2015 Bullet 220RBI
2019 Chevy Colorado extended cab V6 3.6 liter
KeithInUpstateNY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 06:13 PM   #3
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
This is just one theory, but bear with me and see if maybe some of the puzzle pieces seem to fit....

You have a trailer with wood walls, very little insulation and 0.022 aluminum siding. The interior wall is 1/8" luan paneling which is not well sealed to the wood structure, but stapled in place and "somewhat sealed" where the window moldings hold it in place and where the edge/end cap moldings cover the gaps.

You have a recent history of excess humidity in the trailer (bathroom vent condensation) and concern for moisture there as well.

Now, to the theory: There is some moisture migration from the "wet interior air" into the gaps between the luan and the wooden structure. That moisture condenses on the cold aluminum since there is no "real dead air space" created by the "minimal insulation in the walls" and worsened by not having any moisture barrier in any of the walls.

So, the "moist air" condenses on the aluminum, runs down the wall to the floor and seeps out, making the carpet wet.

Now, in the past couple of days, you tear out the luan and what little insulation is in the wall, essentially opening it to constant contact with the moist interior air. As the outside temperature falls, the unprotected aluminum sheeting gets cold and when the temperature falls below the dew point, all that interior moisture collects on the cold aluminum surface and it "literally rains every night inside your trailer"..... What you see "tonight" is not the typical condensation that would occur, so it probably appears much wetter than it would be be if the luan and insulation were in place.

What I'm suggesting is that maybe the amount of water collecting on the unprotected metal sheeting is not what normally happens, but is collecting like that because you removed all the barriers that were in place and you made the situation worse than it was...

Now, some possible sources for the water stains that are visible. First, I'd remove the windows in the slide and reseal all of them. The clay putty tape used at the factory, especially on the "corrugated aluminum skin" just doesn't seal well and a tiny "pinhole leak" in the window will cause the extensive water stains that you have. Also, plugged weep holes in the window moldings will cause the condensation that collects on the windows and "seeps out of the window to the exterior" can leak into the inner wall and cause the staining you have.

I'd first seal the windows, reinsulate with a spun fiberglass insulation with a moisture barrier on the surface next to the outside wall.... DO NOT INSTALL THE MOISTURE BARRIER NEXT TO THE LUAN PANEL... If you can't find 2" fiberglass insulation with a moisture barrier, you can make one by using a plastic sheeting paint dropcloth and stapling it to the walls of the slide, then use spray adhesive to hold the fiberglass insulation in place and reinstall the luan paneling.

If you get the idea that I don't think you've got an active leak, you're right. If you do have an active leak, I would first suspect it's from one of the windows that was inadequately sealed and/or that is leaking into the wall. I honestly think that all (or at least the major part) of your water problem is condensation caused by inadequate ventilation/air exchange inside a poorly insulated trailer and two people living in a confined space without enough ventilation.

Frankly, I think you're trying to live full time, during a wet winter season, in an entry level trailer without making the accommodations in ventilation/dehumidification that are mandatory in such a poorly prepared and inadequately constructed trailer.

That's not intended to be any negative reflection on your situation, your need for housing or for your intentions. Rather it's a reflection on the capabilities of the trailer, using it as a full time residence for two people and expecting it to be as comfortable and to perform like a "full size house". Most homes are 1000+ square feet with 4-8" of insulation, built in ventilation in the attic and enough cubic feet of "inside space" to readily absorb the moisture that two people produce. You're trying to make a 225 sq ft box with no attic, no air movement above the ceiling perform the same way as a full size house. It simply can't perform that way. Add "metal walls with no vapor barrier, 1" fiberglass insulation, single pane windows, two people breathing, cooking, showering with limited ventilation and you can start to appreciate how hard it is to keep the inside of that "little house" dry and comfortable.

It's simply not designed to do what you're forcing it to do. Without "work-around" moisture removal (dehumidifiers and power ventilation) you probably won't be able to prevent the walls from being wet, but adding a vapor barrier and adequate insulation would be a start.

I'm guessing that if you remove the slide window directly over the leak in your photos, if you look closely at the clay putty tape, you'll find a "water track" and/or dirty spots where the putty tape didn't seal to the trailer skin under the window flange. My guess is that is where the majority of your water stains originated and now that the metal is exposed in the evenings, all the moisture in the trailer is condensing there. Get the wall reinsulated and closed with new putty on the window and you'll probably find the carpet won't get wet any more.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 07:00 PM   #4
Nomadicchefs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
This is just one theory, but bear with me and see if maybe some of the puzzle pieces seem to fit....

You have a trailer with wood walls, very little insulation and 0.022 aluminum siding. The interior wall is 1/8" luan paneling which is not well sealed to the wood structure, but stapled in place and "somewhat sealed" where the window moldings hold it in place and where the edge/end cap moldings cover the gaps.

You have a recent history of excess humidity in the trailer (bathroom vent condensation) and concern for moisture there as well.

Now, to the theory: There is some moisture migration from the "wet interior air" into the gaps between the luan and the wooden structure. That moisture condenses on the cold aluminum since there is no "real dead air space" created by the "minimal insulation in the walls" and worsened by not having any moisture barrier in any of the walls.

So, the "moist air" condenses on the aluminum, runs down the wall to the floor and seeps out, making the carpet wet.

Now, in the past couple of days, you tear out the luan and what little insulation is in the wall, essentially opening it to constant contact with the moist interior air. As the outside temperature falls, the unprotected aluminum sheeting gets cold and when the temperature falls below the dew point, all that interior moisture collects on the cold aluminum surface and it "literally rains every night inside your trailer"..... What you see "tonight" is not the typical condensation that would occur, so it probably appears much wetter than it would be be if the luan and insulation were in place.

What I'm suggesting is that maybe the amount of water collecting on the unprotected metal sheeting is not what normally happens, but is collecting like that because you removed all the barriers that were in place and you made the situation worse than it was...

Now, some possible sources for the water stains that are visible. First, I'd remove the windows in the slide and reseal all of them. The clay putty tape used at the factory, especially on the "corrugated aluminum skin" just doesn't seal well and a tiny "pinhole leak" in the window will cause the extensive water stains that you have. Also, plugged weep holes in the window moldings will cause the condensation that collects on the windows and "seeps out of the window to the exterior" can leak into the inner wall and cause the staining you have.

I'd first seal the windows, reinsulate with a spun fiberglass insulation with a moisture barrier on the surface next to the outside wall.... DO NOT INSTALL THE MOISTURE BARRIER NEXT TO THE LUAN PANEL... If you can't find 2" fiberglass insulation with a moisture barrier, you can make one by using a plastic sheeting paint dropcloth and stapling it to the walls of the slide, then use spray adhesive to hold the fiberglass insulation in place and reinstall the luan paneling.

If you get the idea that I don't think you've got an active leak, you're right. If you do have an active leak, I would first suspect it's from one of the windows that was inadequately sealed and/or that is leaking into the wall. I honestly think that all (or at least the major part) of your water problem is condensation caused by inadequate ventilation/air exchange inside a poorly insulated trailer and two people living in a confined space without enough ventilation.

Frankly, I think you're trying to live full time, during a wet winter season, in an entry level trailer without making the accommodations in ventilation/dehumidification that are mandatory in such a poorly prepared and inadequately constructed trailer.

That's not intended to be any negative reflection on your situation, your need for housing or for your intentions. Rather it's a reflection on the capabilities of the trailer, using it as a full time residence for two people and expecting it to be as comfortable and to perform like a "full size house". Most homes are 1000+ square feet with 4-8" of insulation, built in ventilation in the attic and enough cubic feet of "inside space" to readily absorb the moisture that two people produce. You're trying to make a 225 sq ft box with no attic, no air movement above the ceiling perform the same way as a full size house. It simply can't perform that way. Add "metal walls with no vapor barrier, 1" fiberglass insulation, single pane windows, two people breathing, cooking, showering with limited ventilation and you can start to appreciate how hard it is to keep the inside of that "little house" dry and comfortable.

It's simply not designed to do what you're forcing it to do. Without "work-around" moisture removal (dehumidifiers and power ventilation) you probably won't be able to prevent the walls from being wet, but adding a vapor barrier and adequate insulation would be a start.

I'm guessing that if you remove the slide window directly over the leak in your photos, if you look closely at the clay putty tape, you'll find a "water track" and/or dirty spots where the putty tape didn't seal to the trailer skin under the window flange. My guess is that is where the majority of your water stains originated and now that the metal is exposed in the evenings, all the moisture in the trailer is condensing there. Get the wall reinsulated and closed with new putty on the window and you'll probably find the carpet won't get wet any more.
I agree 100% that the removal of the wall and insulation added to the moisture appearing more pronounced, but prior to removing anything (and after resealing the roof, windows, slide trim & screws, etc) I had continuously had this water seeping out for weeks. We had actually reset the window a while ago as it seemed loose and the putty tape was very fickle. However, the water seeping onto the carpet had caught my eye because it had started to mold on the couch base that is screwed to the wall. I moved the couch, pulled the carpet back and the ply floor was soaked.

I will get the spun fiberglass or the method you gave me if I can't find that, however, the wall where the main issue is isn't on the bare metal so much, it's on that tan paper type wall. I'm just concerned that if I re-insulate and get it all closed up again, I'm still going to find this soaking wet corner again. The subflooring is soaked and the framing is soaked, but only in one corner.

I've been using your advice since I joined and started getting replies in this forum. I know that you and many others know much more than I do about rv life. I know we must accommodate and do some things to make it work for our full timing and I'm ok with that. Thanks for the help.
Nomadicchefs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 07:06 PM   #5
Nomadicchefs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by compeakw View Post
I had condensation problems in my dinette slide during the fall months here in upstate NY the two years I had that trailer. (I "downgraded" last year to a no slide model last year.)

You said you sealed everything you can and the problem is worse at night, so assuming there is no ice dam on the roof of the slide my first thought would be to bring the slide in before you go to bed and put it out in the morning until you get a more permanent solution. Inconvenient, but there will be a lot less surface area to cool down. Heavy drapes, or even a blanket hung calling to floor inside the back (outside) wall will create an air pocket behind it and may wick some of the moisture. Long term, rigid foam insulation will provide a higher R value than the factory fiberglass. Just be sure to get the best friction fit for each space you can and seal the inside edges where it meets the framing so moisture can't get behind it. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks for the info, I had initially thought about getting a slide sleeve. If you Google therma slides you can see what I'm talking about. Since the slide is so poorly insulated and constructed, I thought this couldn't hurt to look into as well. I have only seen a couple campers with them, but they seem somewhat beneficial. I could be wrong though.
Nomadicchefs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 07:19 PM   #6
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
I'm not sure that a slide sleeve will help "that much"... It may act as a water barrier to keep water out, but at the same time, it may act as a water barrier to keep water in.... Sort of a "double edged sword" so to speak...

You might consider getting a 4x8 sheet of 1" rigid foam, cutting it to fit the slide sidewall and cutting out the window opening, then just taping it in place on the outside of your RV. That would act as a vapor barrier, help insulate the walls and shield them from rain and much of the "outside condensation"... Cost is about $10 and might help. Alternatively, you might also consider using half inch rigid foam and building an "inside wall" to fit against your slide sidewall, inside your trailer. It wouldn't look as good when living in the trailer, but would help prevent any condensation from collecting on the interior wall. You might even consider putting a "half wall" from the floor to the bottom of your window, made of foam. It wouldn't be as obtrusive and might shield the part of the wall that's experiencing the condensation without affecting that much of what you see.....

ADDED: I know a lot of people use 1" rigid foam to cover the outside of their slides in winter. They use aluminum duct tape to tape the foam to the trailer outside walls. Up here, when the wind blows, it whistles through the slide seals, so anything that will help block the wind and insulate as well is a "win/win"....

ADDED #2: Rereading your last post, I wonder if the "water seeping out for weeks" after you resealed the windows and exterior moldings was a result of what had leaked in before you resealed them? Once the insulation gets wet, it could take weeks to dry if sealed up inside the wall.... Just a WAG, but the persistent wet spots might be a result of "old water intrusion" with no active leaks now ???? Hmmmm worth considering, maybe ??????
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 04:15 AM   #7
Nomadicchefs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I'm not sure that a slide sleeve will help "that much"... It may act as a water barrier to keep water out, but at the same time, it may act as a water barrier to keep water in.... Sort of a "double edged sword" so to speak...

You might consider getting a 4x8 sheet of 1" rigid foam, cutting it to fit the slide sidewall and cutting out the window opening, then just taping it in place on the outside of your RV. That would act as a vapor barrier, help insulate the walls and shield them from rain and much of the "outside condensation"... Cost is about $10 and might help. Alternatively, you might also consider using half inch rigid foam and building an "inside wall" to fit against your slide sidewall, inside your trailer. It wouldn't look as good when living in the trailer, but would help prevent any condensation from collecting on the interior wall. You might even consider putting a "half wall" from the floor to the bottom of your window, made of foam. It wouldn't be as obtrusive and might shield the part of the wall that's experiencing the condensation without affecting that much of what you see.....

ADDED: I know a lot of people use 1" rigid foam to cover the outside of their slides in winter. They use aluminum duct tape to tape the foam to the trailer outside walls. Up here, when the wind blows, it whistles through the slide seals, so anything that will help block the wind and insulate as well is a "win/win"....

ADDED #2: Rereading your last post, I wonder if the "water seeping out for weeks" after you resealed the windows and exterior moldings was a result of what had leaked in before you resealed them? Once the insulation gets wet, it could take weeks to dry if sealed up inside the wall.... Just a WAG, but the persistent wet spots might be a result of "old water intrusion" with no active leaks now ???? Hmmmm worth considering, maybe ??????
Honestly, we don't mind the interior things we must do to protect the camper. If foam board will help, seeing it isn't an issue. I was thinking last night why it's just this one wall, and my lightbulb went off (slowly i might add) but that side wall is in the darkest spot during the day. It never gets direct sunlight.

As for the "added #2" - yes, I definitely think it's the remaining water damage wicking down onto the framing and onto the carpet. When it dries out would it help at all to paint it with a mold & mildew solution like kilz? I suppose more of a peace of mind to protect it as much as possible in case moisture keeps happening where I can't see it.

Also, that corner is where the slide wiring comes in. That particular 2x2 is directly against the metal, very snug compared to the rest of the framing. I know it's how it's constructed, but it seems to be what is keeping that corner piece wet. After applying heat, the moisture has almost completely disappeared except for that exceptionally wet corner piece. It's soaked to the point that the floor is still wet as well. I think it worries me so much because we will be in this area for at least another 8 or 9 months, so the moisture will continue, and I want to preserve that wood as much as I can since it hasn't deteriorated.
Nomadicchefs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 06:57 AM   #8
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
I would not use KILZ. It should work OK for visible mold, to seal it and contain it, but it isn't effective on the mold root system and the mold will continue to grow under the KILZ because the back side of that 2x2 is still exposed to the exterior metal sheeting and moisture will wick into the wood from that area. So KILZ will "hide it so you can't see it but not kill it"....

Clorox will kill the mold on contact, but doesn't saturate the surface, so it will destroy the "VISIBLE" mold, bleach it white and make it easy to "brush away/break off" of the surface. BUT Clorox will not kill the mold root structure.

Hydrogen Peroxide 3% will also saturate the wood surface and destroy the mold root system, but it will take multiple spraying to work effectively because what it does is remove the oxygen from the mold root structure, drying it out. As long as there is moisture coming into the back side of the wood, the mold can "survive the treatment".

I'd suggest you buy a half gallon of White Distilled Vinegar and a spray bottle and spray the undiluted vinegar on the entire surface. Vinegar (acetic acid) will saturate the wood and destroy the mold root system.

There are many "mold treatment products" on the market, but few are as cost effective and long lasting as "plain old white distilled vinegar".....
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 07:27 AM   #9
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
As a clarification, White Distilled Vinegar, found in the salad dressing section of any supermarket is 5% acetic acid. White distilled vinegar can also be found in any "commercial cleaning products store" in strengths from 5% to 25%. The latter, the commercial cleaning product is stronger and will give a faster result, but both products, the "salad dressing strength" (5%) or the stronger commercial product will work. If you choose to use the commercial product, use gloves, splash shield to cover your face and don't breathe the spray for a prolonged time. It is acid and just like "battery acid" it will burn your skin and if inhaled, will burn your lungs. Use caution.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 07:31 AM   #10
Nomadicchefs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
Got that on hand. Can you tell me what the tan wall is made out of? I saw one article that said it could be some sort of "wallboard" that is water resistant, but clearly this isn't that since the condensation is soaking through it. It's thin whatever it is, and it feels like cardboard to the touch.
Nomadicchefs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 07:35 AM   #11
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
I would guess that it's a dense fiberboard similar to the back most paper tablet backs. It's a paper product similar to the "cardboard" that's used as FILON backing in fiberglass trailer front sheeting. It is not waterproof, but often has a sprayed on poly covering to help resist water penetration. Obviously, where nails, screws or staples penetrate that covering, water will seep through and eventually destroy the cardboard.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 10:05 AM   #12
AbHDToyHauler
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 306
Correct me if I am wrong but should not the vapour barrier be between the warm moist air (inside trailer ) and the insulation and outside of trailer (metal). That way moisture is kept away from cold metal surface (it can't migrate though the vapour barrier it can't condense). That is the way home are always contructed here in Canada. I am no expert so maybe for some reason trailers are different but physics is physics so I am asking.
__________________
2020 GMC 3500 Denali Dually Duramax 6.6
2013 Fuzion 342 ToyHauler (Ours)
2011 Harley Davidson Streetglide custom (Mine)
2012 Harley Davidson TriGlide (Trike) (Hers)
AbHDToyHauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 10:44 AM   #13
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
Ed,

Travel trailers are different than S&B houses. If you consider that "modern" construction techniques in S&B houses call for a vapor barrier on the OUTSIDE of the structure (house wrap) and then when insulation is stapled between the studs, the "kraft paper lining" is considered a "vapor barrier" on the inside of the walls. But, essentially, the "vapor barrier" is on the outside of the insulated space and the "draft preventer" (non-waterproof barrier) is on the inside.

We've always considered the kraft paper liner on fiberglass insulation as the "vapor barrier" but really it's more of a "wind preventer" and "aid to support the insulation so it doesn't settle"... The "current building technology, puts the "vapor barrier" outside, in the form of a waterproof house wrap.

In Travel trailers, especially the older "rippled aluminum corrugated skin" trailers, the sheets of aluminum are slid together, forming sort of a "lap-strake" construction. Water can (and does) leak through those folded seams. So, the "vapor barrier" goes next to the aluminum skin and then, when the trailer interior is constructed, the luan panels are "vinyl coated" which also forms an "interior vapor barrier". That interior barrier is not truly "water proof" given the "careless construction and lack of precise fitting" of the wall components. I've always heard that "Molding is a cheap way to cover up poor measurements and lack of skilled workmanship"... All of that molding covers up "holes that let moisture into the walls"...

Here's one U-Tube video that details where the vapor barrier goes on an aluminum skinned travel trailer:

So, yes, there's quite a bit of difference in S&B construction as compared to RV construction. But when you get right down to the basics, houses are built with one "waterproof vapor barrier" on the outside and a secondary "water resistant vapor barrier" on the fiberglass kraft paper lining.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 01:23 PM   #14
AbHDToyHauler
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 306
Ok but in Canada the "house wrap (read Tyvek) must breath and therefore let water vapour out but not let "Water" in (read Rain). The actual vapour barrier goes on the studs under the drywall (this is for cold climates of course so that may not be the way the Southern US does it??? I'm intrigued now. My understanding is that the vapor barrier is to be as far from the cold wall as possible too. Try typing in house wrap vs vapor barrier (we use vapour in Canada LOL) .
__________________
2020 GMC 3500 Denali Dually Duramax 6.6
2013 Fuzion 342 ToyHauler (Ours)
2011 Harley Davidson Streetglide custom (Mine)
2012 Harley Davidson TriGlide (Trike) (Hers)
AbHDToyHauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 03:09 PM   #15
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
Ed,

Did you watch that U-Tube video? It's about as self explanatory as possible.....
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 03:11 PM   #16
Nomadicchefs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
I can't find it now, but earlier I read a post that said our campers have "drain paths" built in for condensation..not to sound dumb, but do you think that's why it's not "draining" out the bottom? Because I went a little crazy with the sealant when I redid it all?
Nomadicchefs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 03:34 PM   #17
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,836
There are weep ports in the windows and in the baggage doors. I've never seen any in the floor or in the sidewalls, so I'd say, "No, there are no drain holes in your trailer structure." But, "Yes, there are weep ports in all the window frames and in all the baggage door frames."
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 05:54 PM   #18
Nomadicchefs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
There are weep ports in the windows and in the baggage doors. I've never seen any in the floor or in the sidewalls, so I'd say, "No, there are no drain holes in your trailer structure." But, "Yes, there are weep ports in all the window frames and in all the baggage door frames."
I knew about the weep holes, but I just thought I'd ask. Just in case I missed something. Thanks for all the info though. I'm going to get all the insulating materials tomorrow and get to work.
Nomadicchefs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2019, 08:10 PM   #19
vampress_me
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 777
Quote:
Originally Posted by AbHDToyHauler View Post
Ok but in Canada the "house wrap (read Tyvek) must breath and therefore let water vapour out but not let "Water" in (read Rain). The actual vapour barrier goes on the studs under the drywall (this is for cold climates of course so that may not be the way the Southern US does it??? I'm intrigued now. My understanding is that the vapor barrier is to be as far from the cold wall as possible too. Try typing in house wrap vs vapor barrier (we use vapour in Canada LOL) .
What you do in Canada is exactly what the residential building code requires in MN also. So no worries, you aren’t losing it. Siding, house wrap, sheathing, insulation, 2x6 studs, 4 mil poly, sheetrock <— from the outside to the inside of an exterior wall (except of course the studs and insulation are in the same “layer”). Only way to not have the poly on the interior of the studs is to use closed cell spray foam insulation instead of batt insulation, the spray foam acts as the vapor barrier as well as insulation.
__________________
--Lynette

2019 F-350 diesel 4x4 CC LB DRW, not the mom taxi anymore...
2021 Alliance Paradigm 340RL
2016 F-350 diesel 4x4 CC LB SRW, mom taxi - sold
2014 Cougar XLite 28RDB - sold
vampress_me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2019, 08:03 AM   #20
AbHDToyHauler
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 306
Sorry John. I did watch it and I thought they were using the poly layer as a "Keep rain etc out layer " but because I don't know much about RV's and RV construction I will bow to their/your expertise. I am one of those people who has to know how things work and why. LOL On the other hand I have already fixed my waterheater , installed my power protection system etc . As Red Green says (If you know who he is) "If you can't be handsome you should at least be Handy !!" hahahah
__________________
2020 GMC 3500 Denali Dually Duramax 6.6
2013 Fuzion 342 ToyHauler (Ours)
2011 Harley Davidson Streetglide custom (Mine)
2012 Harley Davidson TriGlide (Trike) (Hers)
AbHDToyHauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
floor, slide

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.