CRE3000 / Lippert Lift Kit

markcee · 01-01-2022, 05:10 AM

I am in the planning process of swapping out my old equalizers and shackles for Morryde CRE3000s and wet bolts. I took some quick measurements yesterday when at the storage yard and all looks good with one exception....I am not thrilled with the 3" of clearance between the top of the tire and the floor. Per Morryde, this is the bare minimum requirement. It's so close that I really want to re-measure when I have more time to ensure I really do have 3". For additional background, the first year we had the trailer the tires were bouncing off the underside, resulting in two blowouts and darco/minor floor damage. Keystone approved both axles being replaced when this occurred, as they had flattened out. Cause was listed as defect. Trailer was about 1200 lbs under GVWR.

Anyway, a couple of things:

I didn't have the battery so made my measurements with the trailer resting on the tongue jack, slightly nose high. Would this cause any significant change in tire to wheel well measurement as opposed to hooking up to my TV?

Thinking of going this route to gain more clearance. Anyone familiar with this kit? Install seems very straight forward.

If installing the lift kit, any ramifications/drawbacks/considerations?

**chuckster57** · 01-01-2022, 09:53 AM

Your link didnt work.

markcee · 01-01-2022, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Your link didnt work.

Thanks....original post edited.

However, in looking at this further, really can't find it available. I also stumbled upon the Correct Track system, which looks to accomplish the same purpose, as well as allowing for axle alignment tuning. I think Correct Track was originally a Lippert product but is now manufactured by somebody else....

Any info on either product would be great.

**chuckster57** · 01-01-2022, 10:58 AM

Correct track is standard on some newer trailers. I haven’t encountered any issues, so it may be the way to go.

**JRTJH** · 01-01-2022, 11:40 AM

This is just my opinion and I don't have any "specific facts and examples" to back it up, but:

I'm going through an axle/suspension change on my trailer right now. I am changing out the 4400 pound axles and 4 leaf springs for 6000 pound axles with 5 leaf springs. I currently have the CRE3000 system and wet bolt/bronze bushing system and plan to keep it.

Looking at my spring hangers, on the "minimally built Lippert frame", I would be reluctant to add anything that extends those spring hangers, increasing the leverage and adding to the risk that they will bend/snap at the welds. Instead, I'd address a suspension lift from the other end of the setup. Have you considered adding a 1" or a 1.5" spring block to the axle perch? You can buy them at almost any trailer suspension store. Just loosen the U-bolts, install the blocks between the spring seat and the axle perch then just retorque the U-bolts. Depending on the thickness of the spring blocks you use, the U-bolts may not be long enough, so you'd need to replace the U-bolts with longer ones. Some people recommend not reusing U-bolts, but I've never had an issue with one loosening if properly torqued.

It's my belief that the Lippert spring hangers are the "weakest link" on a Lippert frame. If I were to install "spring hanger extensions" I'd definitely install the Morryde X-Factor Crossmember Supports to beef up that modificaton. Honestly, I'd recommend the crossmember supports for any Lippert frame that's supporting more than about 7500 pounds regardless of the spring hanger length. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...de/MR49ZR.html Just "normal backing and maneuvering" on any trailer puts "outrageous torque" on the spring hangers. Keeping them straight and in line can't do anything but improve reliability of the trailer frame and suspension.

jsb5717 · 01-01-2022, 12:27 PM

I installed the Correct Track system on my last 5er. It was a job but it gained me 2" lift.

markcee · 01-01-2022, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

This is just my opinion and I don't have any "specific facts and examples" to back it up, but:

I'm going through an axle/suspension change on my trailer right now. I am changing out the 4400 pound axles and 4 leaf springs for 6000 pound axles with 5 leaf springs. I currently have the CRE3000 system and wet bolt/bronze bushing system and plan to keep it.

Looking at my spring hangers, on the "minimally built Lippert frame", I would be reluctant to add anything that extends those spring hangers, increasing the leverage and adding to the risk that they will bend/snap at the welds. Instead, I'd address a suspension lift from the other end of the setup. Have you considered adding a 1" or a 1.5" spring block to the axle perch? You can buy them at almost any trailer suspension store. Just loosen the U-bolts, install the blocks between the spring seat and the axle perch then just retorque the U-bolts. Depending on the thickness of the spring blocks you use, the U-bolts may not be long enough, so you'd need to replace the U-bolts with longer ones. Some people recommend not reusing U-bolts, but I've never had an issue with one loosening if properly torqued.

It's my belief that the Lippert spring hangers are the "weakest link" on a Lippert frame. If I were to install "spring hanger extensions" I'd definitely install the Morryde X-Factor Crossmember Supports to beef up that modificaton. Honestly, I'd recommend the crossmember supports for any Lippert frame that's supporting more than about 7500 pounds regardless of the spring hanger length. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...de/MR49ZR.html Just "normal backing and maneuvering" on any trailer puts "outrageous torque" on the spring hangers. Keeping them straight and in line can't do anything but improve reliability of the trailer frame and suspension.

Thanks John, this is such a simple way to go! Sounds like it will do exactly what I want, at a fraction of the cost.

I don't want to go nuts with the height, this is not for any off the grid adventuring.....although the interstates do feel that way at times. I just want enough total clearance between top of tire and the floor to be safe. Do you think having 4" of total clearance (adding a 1" block) will suffice or would it better in the long run to go with a 2" block?. If 2", is there any issue with adding a spacer of this size?

I have been looking at the cross member as part of the package, may as well do it all at one time.

**JRTJH** · 01-01-2022, 02:34 PM

Mark,

If it were me, I'd just lift 1" and go from there. I'd be as concerned with trailer stability as with tire clearance. Granted, 1" doesn't seem like a lot of height gain, but when you're going around a curve at 70MPH, having the CG as close to the ground as possible is definitely a positive thing.

We had a Jayco trailer "way back when" with 14" tires. The rear end always dragged the ground. I got the brilliant idea to put 15" tires on it to keep it from hanging up when we "off-roaded to the mountains".... To get the wheelwell clearance, I had to lift the trailer 2". It worked (from a tire clearance perspective) but every time I rounded a curve, the trailer leaned terribly and tended to pull the truck in that direction. It was so "sensitive to leaning" that we had to keep the water tank filled just to help with the leaning.... Forget putting soup cans in the top cupboards LOL We traded that 20' Jayco for a 28' Airstream that weighed almost 3500 pounds more than the Jayco. The Airstream handled better than the Jayco with the lift.

I'd suspect you'll be OK with a 1" lift.

**sourdough** · 01-01-2022, 03:49 PM

Mark I think John has a good idea. Also those spring hangars ARE the weak link. I did not install any extensions but I did have 3 MorRyde X factor crossmembers put in along with the heavier axles and springs. Adding any lift, even 1", will increase the twist on that suspension so it doesn't hurt to get all the help you can. The CRE3000 is a great suspension IMO and you won't regret it. Good luck with the upgrade.

markcee · 01-01-2022, 04:59 PM

I agree Danny, good ideas for this upgrade all around.

Now I just have to find an appropriate spring block. I see some that seem to be universal in nature with 3 holes spaced along the top to accommodate the spring pack, others with just one hole in the center. All the Lippert replacement spring packs appear to have a single 'nub' 'protrusion' (probably a term for this), so guess I'll go the single center hole route.

Any idea if these are weight rated at all? Do I need to get anything special or do I just look for the appropriate width, length and hole orientation?

Thanks again everyone!

**JRTJH** · 01-01-2022, 05:05 PM

I've seen steel, billet aluminum, cast iron and "pot metal" spring blocks. They all work on a trailer suspension as long as they are the correct size. Width, length and hole orientation are about all you need to define. All are weight rated well over what your spring packs are rated, so no fear of "overloading the spring block".

Make sure your U-bolts are going to be long enough. Few auto parts stores have "extra long 3" U-bolts" in stock, so to eliminate your risk of having a trailer on jacks for 2 weeks, measure the "exposed threads" above the nut on your U-bolts. If the spring block is thicker than that measurement minus two threads, you'll need new U-bolts.

ALWAYS HAVE 2 threads VISIBLE ABOVE THE NUT ON ANY U-BOLT....

markcee · 01-03-2022, 07:07 PM

One more question and then I think I'll be done

.....

I have been searching far and wide and all readily available blocks appear to be sized for automotive use at 2.5" in width.

I did find these, specific for trailer use, that I will go with if need be. They seem to be the only block in town, tailored for trailers, albeit a bit pricey at over $200 for 4.

Don't mind paying if I have to, but the earlier comment about these blocks being readily available at a trailer supply store makes me think I might be missing something?

**JRTJH** · 01-03-2022, 07:48 PM

The last ones I needed, I went to a local welding shop, had them cut me 4 blocks the correct size, they drilled a 5/16" hole in them for me and when I got them home, I tack welded a bolt into the hole and used my hack saw to cut the bolt to the correct length. It was about 5 years ago, but if I remember, it was $5 a block to cut and drill them. Total was $20 at the weld shop and about $1 for the bolts.

They used 1x2" steel stock and if I can remember correctly, they cut it down to 2.75" long. I think I remember having to grind a corner down to fit the U-bolts.

The reason those blocks are so expensive is because they are "billet aluminum"...

fjr vfr · 11-18-2023, 07:27 PM

I just came across this thread while searching for something else. Below is a couple links.
I installed 2" blocks on my 265rl Laredo 5th wheel trailer after doing a lot of research.
The overall consensus was 3" or less would not change the trailers handling, so I went with the 2" blocks.
We recently crossed the country Virginia to California with several stops along the way. Well, they were right, I did not notice any change in handling. If there was it was imperceptible.
But, I plan on removing them before we travel back in a few months!
What I found was the trailer didn't bounce as much, so hats and sweaters hanging on the walls stayed put better than before. The effect was due instead of the springs absorbing the bumps, it was the tires and chassis taking the beating. Items on the floor and counters took more shock and ended up moving around. The blocks kept most of the shock from being transferred to the suspension. I believe if I were to leave them in place over the long term it could lead to damage to the chassis and higher risk of tire failure as they are absorbing more of the road shocks. So they are coming off. I think they might work better for a cargo trailer, like for lawn equipment, but not for an rv traveling highways. IMHO
Your experience may be different.

https://simcoespring.com/pages/produ...lift-block-kit

https://www.trailerblocks.com/collec...00lb-axle-kits

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