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Old 11-11-2020, 07:38 PM   #21
travelin texans
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Also be sure the battery you've used is a true deep cycle battery, there should not be CCA/CA listed on the battery, if so it's a hybrid used in marine applications for boat starting/trolling motors. A true deep cycle will only have amp hours (AH) listed on the top, it will hold up to the constant charging/discharging much better than the hybrid.
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:51 PM   #22
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Hmmm. That’s interesting. Didn’t know that.
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:52 AM   #23
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Have you checked things with a volt meter? Battery voltage when not plugged into shore power and again while plugged in? Incoming voltage? Voltage in your outlets? You can determine a lot with a meter.
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:55 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
Have you checked things with a volt meter? Battery voltage when not plugged into shore power and again while plugged in? Incoming voltage? Voltage in your outlets? You can determine a lot with a meter.
Yes, I will try that. Thanks.
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:57 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Also be sure the battery you've used is a true deep cycle battery, there should not be CCA/CA listed on the battery, if so it's a hybrid used in marine applications for boat starting/trolling motors. A true deep cycle will only have amp hours (AH) listed on the top, it will hold up to the constant charging/discharging much better than the hybrid.
Well, the one I have is an Interstate battery 24DC with about 685 MCA (Marine Cranking Amps). So this is a hybrid?
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:05 AM   #26
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Well, the one I have is an Interstate battery 24DC with about 685 MCA (Marine Cranking Amps). So this is a hybrid?
Yep!
Get a group 24, 27 & if it'll fit the box a group 31 deep cycle battery/ies.
Also when in storage the factory battery disconnect will not totally disconnect the parasitic drains. The best disconnect is to remove the negative cable from the battery that goes directly to ground, this completely disconnects all 12 volt from the rv.
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Old 11-12-2020, 10:07 AM   #27
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Well, the one I have is an Interstate battery 24DC with about 685 MCA (Marine Cranking Amps). So this is a hybrid?
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Yep!
Get a group 24, 27 & if it'll fit the box a group 31 deep cycle battery/ies.
Also when in storage the factory battery disconnect will not totally disconnect the parasitic drains. The best disconnect is to remove the negative cable from the battery that goes directly to ground, this completely disconnects all 12 volt from the rv.
OP... try to avoid using any less of a battery than a series 27 if at all possible.. And yes if not on shore power in storage at a minimum disconnect the negative cable.. If you're in cold country and won't use it all winter.. then I'd carry the battery home and put it on a maintenance charger...
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Old 11-12-2020, 06:46 PM   #28
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Thanks everyone for all your attention to this subject. Here’s what I found out using a volt meter:

Battery voltage when not plugged into shore power: 7.89 V
Battery voltage when plugged into shore power: 9.46 V
Incoming power: 125.7 V
Battery voltage when trailer is connected to idling truck: 12V
After disconnecting from idling truck: 11V and dropping, without any load.

I’m not sure what it points to but it looks to me like perhaps the battery is inadequate or is just plain bad:
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:11 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by thewhitehat View Post
Thanks everyone for all your attention to this subject. Here’s what I found out using a volt meter:

Battery voltage when not plugged into shore power: 7.89 V
Battery voltage when plugged into shore power: 9.46 V
Incoming power: 125.7 V
Battery voltage when trailer is connected to idling truck: 12V
After disconnecting from idling truck: 11V and dropping, without any load.

I’m not sure what it points to but it looks to me like perhaps the battery is inadequate or is just plain bad:
You should check the converter output.
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:14 PM   #30
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I just wish I knew where the converter was located. Below the entertainment center is the breaker panel. I don’t know if it can be found somewhere nearby there or if it’s located somewhere entirely different.
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:26 PM   #31
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Do you have a factory battery disconnect? If so be sure it's in the "on" or "connected" position, if not the converter will bypass the battery charging.
The converter should be behind the breaker/fuse panel.
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Old 11-13-2020, 04:06 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewhitehat View Post
Thanks everyone for all your attention to this subject. Here’s what I found out using a volt meter:

Battery voltage when not plugged into shore power: 7.89 V
Battery voltage when plugged into shore power: 9.46 V
Incoming power: 125.7 V
Battery voltage when trailer is connected to idling truck: 12V
After disconnecting from idling truck: 11V and dropping, without any load.

I’m not sure what it points to but it looks to me like perhaps the battery is inadequate or is just plain bad:
It is shot but charge it and have it load tested anyway.
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Old 11-13-2020, 04:16 AM   #33
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I just wish I knew where the converter was located. Below the entertainment center is the breaker panel. I don’t know if it can be found somewhere nearby there or if it’s located somewhere entirely different.
It is located with the Breakers and fuses or VRny close. underneath or behind.
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Old 11-13-2020, 06:45 AM   #34
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Sorry if im late, I went through 2 converters before upgrading to a bigger converter '70a' before it fixed my issues that sound very familiar. My guess is your batteries were too low when you hooked up shore power so the converter tried to rapid charge while running your 12v systems at the same time causing your converter to be overwhelmed and burning it out. upgrade or swap converters to a new one making sure batteries have a good charge before allowing any 12v systems to operate, 'battery kill switch'

you will find a million people giving you lots of advice but this is what i just did to mine after a few told me i was wrong... i wasn't.....

with my 70a converter it has plenty of "safety" built into it so i shouldn't suffer these issues again..

search my post for burning our converters

good luck happy camping
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Old 11-19-2020, 09:19 AM   #35
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Put a voltmeter in an outlet. If less than 109v you have a problem coming in. If it drops a lot when you turn on the AC you are not getting the amperage you need. Check your cable. Put a voltmeter on your battery after disconnecting power from the trailer. If less than 12.6 you have either a bad battery or charging circuit. Plug in the camper with everything turned off. Check the battery. It not over 13 to 14v it isn't charging. Look at the first test. Low power to the trailer can cause that. IMHO, you will find the site is not getting enough amperage to power your camper or your power cable is bad or corroded where it is connected to the inverter. If your generator is 5k or more and things aren't working you either have a bad cable, corroded or loose connections at the inverter, or a bad inverter.
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Old 11-19-2020, 01:04 PM   #36
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I didn’t see if you pulled the two 40 Amp fuses on your power panel for 12 v power and reverse polarity? I had same problem and this was it. Everything you described was the same with mine. I would bet it’s the simple thing....it usually is.
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Old 11-19-2020, 07:56 PM   #37
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Such a long thread..

OP.. if the DC output when measured at your battery cables with them disconnected and shore power is good and battery disconnect is ON..key can’t be removed is not 13.4 to 13.8 volts you either have blown reverse polarity fuses, no 120 power to converter or bad converter...

5 minutes to test and verify
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Old 11-20-2020, 08:39 AM   #38
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What you can do...

There are a couple of things you can do right now.


1. Check the connections to the battery make sure the polarity is correct. You can do this by tracing the cable connected to the negative battery post, the other end should be connected to the trailer frame. Mine is connected to the metal floor in the battery compartment and it's a white wire. There may also be other wires, usually the same color, connected to the same grounding bolt as the battery ground. If the wiring is reversed, you'll certainly have a blown fuse. If you have two batteries be sure and check that cable as well.

2. After you get the polarity ironed out, on the battery, take the battery cable connections apart and clean the battery posts, and the cable connectors (I use emery cloth, you can also use battery cleaner in a can you can buy from just about any auto parts store. It's kind of messy though). Make sure the wire connectors shine. And for good measure, take a wire brush to the bolts.

3. Check the water level in each of the battery cells. Being new, they should all be full, but it won't hurt to check.

From here, you're going to need a Volt-ohm Meter. I also use a battery tester, one that puts a load on the battery. I bought one from Harbor Freight about 25 years ago. They still sell one, the price has doubled since I got mine ; https://harborfreight.com/100a-612v-...ter-61747.html

I perform #2 and #3 regularly, certainly when I pull the trailer out of storage (to store, I fully charge the batteries, then disconnect the wires from the battery, I also check the voltage now and again, if it's low, I top it off with a trickle charger. I also check each cell and top them off as needed)
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Old 11-20-2020, 12:40 PM   #39
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Haven't seen it mentioned, but every rv should have one in use everywhere every time it's plugged into shore power, a good EMS (electric management system) surge protector. Just be sure it's an EMS not just surge protector. This will protect your rv from 99% of any poor electric issues from the power source. They're a bit pricey, but so is replacing a fridge, microwave, water heater, ac or any of the electronic equipment onboard, the EMS is cheap insurance.
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Old 11-26-2020, 01:26 PM   #40
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Talking

Well, I ordered a new group 27 AGM battery rated at 100ah, and took it out to the trailer (I made sure it was fully charged this time). After connecting it and plugging into the shore power at my storage location, I noted the lights worked well and the fridge worked, etc. I checked the battery charge lights on the control panel and found them to be showing four lights (full charge). But after a few minutes of having interior lights on, I checked the control panel again and it showed just three lights, as though the battery was no longer fully charged. According to the multimeter, I'm getting 125v from the outlets inside, but the battery showed it had gone down to 12.55v in just a few minutes.

Looking through the trailer manuals, I discovered one I hadn't really read - It was the one on the WFCO Power Distribution Center. The converter is attached to the back of the distribution center. I first checked the reverse polarity fuses to see if either one had been blown - they were both good. The manual showed me how to test the converter, and sure enough, there were zero volts being converted to DC, so the battery is not being charged and would eventually go dead. Bad Converter.

I ordered another converter and will see if all is well after installing that.

Lessons learned - not only did I learn more about batteries (did you know you're not supposed to store batteries on a concrete floor?) and my trailer's electrical system, but I will be checking the battery charge preflight before going on any trips to avoid ruining another converter. I will also look into an EMS system as some of you have suggested. Thanks all for the help. It just took a while for all the information to be digested so I could understand it.
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