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Old 03-29-2021, 10:25 AM   #21
JohnnyP
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Same Issue

I have a 2021 with 2200 miles. Have had the same issue since they day I got it. I actually was throwing a code and had to have the truck towed back to dealer with 400 miles on it. Had a bad plug and started to shut down. They replaced the bad plug and no issues with that since. I had them check the miss as well and they have not been able to locate any issues. Truck has been great except for only getting 13 miles per gallon. If you have any luck getting grid of miss please let me know.
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Old 03-29-2021, 10:53 AM   #22
Bill-2020
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I have a 2021 with 2200 miles. Have had the same issue since they day I got it. I actually was throwing a code and had to have the truck towed back to dealer with 400 miles on it. Had a bad plug and started to shut down. They replaced the bad plug and no issues with that since. I had them check the miss as well and they have not been able to locate any issues. Truck has been great except for only getting 13 miles per gallon. If you have any luck getting grid of miss please let me know.
John,
Thanks for your reply. I haven't made it to the dealership yet, dang career that pays for these toys keeps getting in the way. I suppose there's always a potential for a bad plug, but it sounds like the truck's ECU did what it was supposed to, sensed the problem and went into limp mode or something. As for this strange stumble/partial miss/stutter/shimmy or whatever it is (pain in my rear!) I can only surmise from the posts above that it's running as designed and the EPA regulations are part of it. Lower idle = lower emissions and lower fuel consumption. If I barley gave it just a smidge of pressure on the accelerator while in Park or Neutral, raising the RPMs just a hair, the engine purrs like I think it should. And I don't even think I'm raising the RMS but maybe 25 to 40ish RPMs. I need to put the scanner on it again in live mode and see for sure. I'll certainly let you know if anything changes.
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Old 03-29-2021, 12:52 PM   #23
FlyingAroundRV
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Bill:
I watched a YouTube channel that was about diagnosing tricky faults with cars (Diagnose Dan).
He had one once that *nobody* could find the fault with. It was an intermittent problem.
He solved it with his eyes. It turned out to be a wire that had been rubbing on something and had worn the insulation through. The wire was in an area that wasn't easy to see and he had to get right under the vehicle on a hoist.
A really thorough visual inspection under the hood might pay dividends given the way engines are completely controlled by electronics these days.
There might be a specialist diagnostician in your area that could help.
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Old 03-29-2021, 04:08 PM   #24
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To go a bit further with what Scott just posted, on a dark night, get the truck away from any ambient light, open the hood and disable the "hood light". Start the truck and with no lights around to "mask the engine" take a long hard look at what you see "lighting up around the engine"...

It's not nearly as frequent as it was years ago, but you'd be amazed at the "light show under the hood" on a car or truck that's 3 or 4 years old.
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Old 03-30-2021, 05:50 AM   #25
Bill-2020
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To go a bit further with what Scott just posted, on a dark night, get the truck away from any ambient light, open the hood and disable the "hood light". Start the truck and with no lights around to "mask the engine" take a long hard look at what you see "lighting up around the engine"...

It's not nearly as frequent as it was years ago, but you'd be amazed at the "light show under the hood" on a car or truck that's 3 or 4 years old.
Haven’t thought about that in Years! I remember seeing this on a friends ‘69 AMC Javelin back in the late 80’s. I’ll have to give it a look see on the the DWs as well, it’s an older vehicle.
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Old 03-30-2021, 06:03 AM   #26
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Any gas powered vehichle will have coils and spark plugs. Some have wires between the 2 some have the coil pack directly mounted to the spark plug. The insulation can fail or get damaged. Some rodents find the wires a "preferred delicacy" and chew on them. It's worth a look see. If a wire is chewed it won't be covered by warranty unless the service writer likes you a lot.
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Old 04-14-2021, 05:59 PM   #27
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*** SOLVED! *** ahem.... apparently they all do this.

I was finally able to talk with an individual who knew about this and apparently it's a very common (most of them) thing with these latest 6.2 engines. I guess there have been some changes with the 6.2 over the years (like moving from a MAF sensor to a MAP sensor for example). As things are changed on the engine so does the way it runs. The thought on this idle thing is that as the engine warms, it begins to drop the idle (normal for all engines) but it's unable to smoothly drop when it's about half warm (hence the stumble). That's until the temps are just right and everything just starts to work well with air and fuel mixtures. The low idle (500-550ish) is also probably due to EPA and how car makers are trying to keep the fleet lean. Lower idle, less emissions, yada, yada, yada...

I've stopped scouring the world wide web for hints, ideas and answers (of which there was nothing on this particular idle issue that I could find other than older 6.2 engines that needed a good throttle body cleaning, or new plugs, coils, etc.). I stopped trying different fuels and different octane ratings with no difference in it. I even tried three different brands of oil (but Mobil 1 was the quieter oil I must say). We have a 4.6L GMC Savanna at work that kind of/sort of shows the same thing, except it's not as pronounced as it is on the Ford 6.2.

JohnnyP - our engines are running as designed. But it's interesting that my brother's 6.2 (2020 as well) doesn't do this. However he's at altitude, 5000 - 7200ft depending. So that must have something to do with it. Less O2...

John - I did start the engine on a very dark night. I even stayed out in the darkness to let my eyes adjust before I started it. Not a single speck of light anywhere.

Scott - I scoured the engine bay for anything loose, cracked, melted or rubbed the wrong way. Nothing was the matter. I did find a few parts of the harness that needed an extra cable tie. Oh, I also found a red protective cap that had wedged itself under a bracket in front of the intake manifold. Probably from some part that has a cap on it and it's removed just before that particular part is installed (like a MAP sensor or something delicate). I saved that cap just incase I discover what it went to/goes to.

I'm glad this issue is over with and I can get back to finishing the other things on my lists.
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Old 04-14-2021, 06:11 PM   #28
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Thanks for posting. I’ll have to remember the next time a customer complains.
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Old 04-14-2021, 06:30 PM   #29
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What did I say about sensors and computers.
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Old 04-14-2021, 06:31 PM   #30
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Thanks for posting. I’ll have to remember the next time a customer complains.
I spent an enormous amount of time over the months in front of the idling engine, looking, touching, wiggling every hose, harness and component looking for anything that made a difference in that warming or warm idle stumble. The individual I talked with today showed me a 6.2 that did the same thing. Had you blindfolded me, I would have thought you had walked me over to my truck and started it while I stood there blind.
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Old 04-14-2021, 06:35 PM   #31
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What did I say about sensors and computers.
When the other automakers can get a large V8 to idle smooth... you'd think one of the Biggest automakers can get that bug worked out, wouldntcha?
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Old 04-14-2021, 07:04 PM   #32
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When the other automakers can get a large V8 to idle smooth... you'd think one of the Biggest automakers can get that bug worked out, wouldntcha?
Yep, you'd think they could easily do the engineering to fix that stumble... Then, the question becomes, "How long with the 6.2l be around in the SuperDuty? With the EcoBoost popularity in almost everything else that Ford makes, it's only a matter of time before they come out with an EB engine to replace the 6.2l now that they have the 7.3l that's likely going to become the "base engine" in the F350 with an EB engine in the F250... Then, there's talk about combining the 250/350 lines and increasing the max GVWR on the F150 to 8200 pounds, and not having a class 2 HD truck, just the class 2 LD (F150 truck)... If Ford does any of that, then the "stumble in the 6.2l" won't matter because the 6.2l won't be in the lineup....

Man, that's a "long winded" way to say, Ford probably won't spend the money to fix it because the engine is going to be replaced in a year or so anyway.....
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Old 04-15-2021, 03:54 AM   #33
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And let’s forget about the electric vehicles.
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Old 04-15-2021, 05:47 AM   #34
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And let’s forget about the electric vehicles.
They already have a major stuble. Cause? Cost, range, time to charge.
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Old 06-16-2022, 05:25 AM   #35
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My 2020 F250, 6.2L does the same thing, almost like the sensors are searching for something. It's a very mild surge that's heard but not registering on the RPM gauge.
I remember being told from a Ford Tech that this is also the case for the F150, 5.4L engines, during warmup the sensors are searching for data until fully warmed up.
I don't have loss of power, and octane levels doesn't change it either.
Very unusual for an engine with only 11K miles.
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Old 06-16-2022, 04:07 PM   #36
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Disco the battery wait 10 minutes hit the horn ( this dumps the capacitors built into the computer system reattach batt cables

This is free fast and easy if your computer has " learned " a bad habit this will eliminate the memory resetting it to factory parameters

Btw I was a master tech for Ford prior to this steel mill gig
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Old 06-16-2022, 05:07 PM   #37
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Thank You Hawghauler,

Glad to have you in our corner. I'll try that immediately.

Safe travels out there, sir.
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Old 06-16-2022, 05:44 PM   #38
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Any time sir
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Old 06-17-2022, 02:49 AM   #39
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Does the 6.2 have direct and port injection? Some of the 5.0s have both and transition between the two; perhaps the 6.2 has something similar that causes the issue?
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