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Old 10-02-2017, 06:55 AM   #41
txfireguy2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-O-B'03 View Post
My WFCO converter failed, a few weeks past the 2 year warranty and I replaced just the circuit board with a PD4655 MBA from Progressive Dynamics.

The Progressive is a 4 stage unit, with dual fans and it slides right in to the WFCO load center.

While I was at it, I replace the 2 X 12 volt batteries, that were damaged in the process, with 2 X 6 volt golf cart batteries.

All in it was under $500, for the converter, batteries and battery box to hold them.

I am very happy with my decision.

-Brian
I'm assuming the golf cart batteries have a larger amp hour rating, so they last longer? Withstand more charge discharge cycles, or stand up to constant charging better? What was the reason for that switch? My trailer only has one battery, but I could easily add a second in parallel configuration and double the storage capacity, why go to the golf cart batteries?

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Old 10-02-2017, 06:58 AM   #42
flybouy
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Before you fire up any repair or replacement of the converter I suggest having the battery load tested at a minimum. I suspect the difference in voltage readings with the battery out and in the circuit is do to the battery having failed with a shorted cell. Given the report of the boil out the battery would be dead. Using distilled water to top a cell is not useful after the battery runs dry and the damage is done. A battery with a shorted cell will put the charger under a load that can cause damage.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:09 AM   #43
flybouy
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Originally Posted by txfireguy2003 View Post
I'm assuming the golf cart batteries have a larger amp hour rating, so they last longer? Withstand more charge discharge cycles, or stand up to constant charging better? What was the reason for that switch? My trailer only has one battery, but I could easily add a second in parallel configuration and double the storage capacity, why go to the golf cart batteries?

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Increase in capacity is one plus. They are constructed in a way that allows a deeper and frequent discharge without failure.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:12 AM   #44
txfireguy2003
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Yes, I plan to make sure I have a good battery in it, the problem is that the trailer is parked 3 hours from my home and I am only using it on weekends. Where it's located, it would be a good hour drive one way to go get a part, so my plan was to purchase the converter and if it's not needed, I could return it. That said, someone above mentioned that the converter that's in it may be just barely adequate, so an upgrade wouldn't hurt, and they are pretty affordable, so I figured why not just do the upgrade and feel comfortable about it. The current converter would be 12-13 years old at this point. I'm sure there is a lifespan on these things, no?

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Old 10-02-2017, 07:15 AM   #45
txfireguy2003
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Thermostat gets its power from the control board in the AC. Thermostat "tells" the control board what your asking for (heat or cool) and reports the temp.

Where the 12V originates from, I don't know. You could figure it out by using a test light and then pulling fuses.
I think the 12V would have to originate in the DC side of the trailer, either the converter, or the battery in the case of no shore power. Thats the only way the furnace could run off the battery without shore power, correct?

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Old 10-02-2017, 07:24 AM   #46
flybouy
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Originally Posted by txfireguy2003 View Post
Yes, I plan to make sure I have a good battery in it, the problem is that the trailer is parked 3 hours from my home and I am only using it on weekends. Where it's located, it would be a good hour drive one way to go get a part, so my plan was to purchase the converter and if it's not needed, I could return it. That said, someone above mentioned that the converter that's in it may be just barely adequate, so an upgrade wouldn't hurt, and they are pretty affordable, so I figured why not just do the upgrade and feel comfortable about it. The current converter would be 12-13 years old at this point. I'm sure there is a lifespan on these things, no?

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Everything has a lifespan and it is affected by how it's used. As for having a "good" battery don't be fooled by a battery charger charging the battery. A damaged battery may take a "top charge" and drain rapidly with little or no load. The only reliable result is after a load test.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:41 AM   #47
txfireguy2003
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
Everything has a lifespan and it is affected by how it's used. As for having a "good" battery don't be fooled by a battery charger charging the battery. A damaged battery may take a "top charge" and drain rapidly with little or no load. The only reliable result is after a load test.
Thanks.

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Old 10-02-2017, 08:26 AM   #48
B-O-B'03
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Originally Posted by txfireguy2003 View Post
I'm assuming the golf cart batteries have a larger amp hour rating, so they last longer? Withstand more charge discharge cycles, or stand up to constant charging better? What was the reason for that switch? My trailer only has one battery, but I could easily add a second in parallel configuration and double the storage capacity, why go to the golf cart batteries?
Yes, to all the above.

The 2 golf cart batteries, in series, have a greater AH rating and reserve than the previous 12 volt, deep cycle RV/Marine group 24 Interstate batteries, in parallel, they replaced.

They are true deep cycle batteries and should handle repeated discharge/recharge better than the previous units.

I also added a really cool system for maintaining the water level, in both batteries, at the same time.

battery filler system
battery filler hand pump

The hose end, for the filler system, is in one of the wire holes in the new battery box and I just connect the hand pump to it, place the hose for the pump into a bottle of distilled water and squeeze the bulb of the pump until it is firm.

It takes just seconds to ensure all cells are full.

-Brian
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:03 AM   #49
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Not to over simplify this. But I had the exact same issues with my class A we owned. Had this issue for several seasons mostly when it rained. It turned out it was the 50A extension cord that had a fault in it and causing all the problems they seemed to be highlighted by the rain. Not sure if you are using the shore power cord directly into the box or if you are using an 30/50 amp extension if so this sounds like your problem. As I said my issues were exactly the same as yours and I spend hundreds with my Holiday Rambler dealer trying to figure it out.
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:34 AM   #50
txfireguy2003
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Not to over simplify this. But I had the exact same issues with my class A we owned. Had this issue for several seasons mostly when it rained. It turned out it was the 50A extension cord that had a fault in it and causing all the problems they seemed to be highlighted by the rain. Not sure if you are using the shore power cord directly into the box or if you are using an 30/50 amp extension if so this sounds like your problem. As I said my issues were exactly the same as yours and I spend hundreds with my Holiday Rambler dealer trying to figure it out.
Thanks for the info. I'm plugging directly into a 30 amp outlet, dedicated to my trailer only, with no adapters or extensions. The outlet was installed and hooked up this Spring, along with another identical setup which is working fine on another guy's trailer. They are two completely separate but identical circuits, and they are pulling from separate legs of the main service to the property. None of the other stuff sends to have a problem, including the house, garage, barns, another camper, etc. It seems to be isolated to my trailer, and I think I've got it narrowed down to strictly a 12V problem, since none of the other 120V outlets, appliances, etc have a problem, only the A/C, and I'm not 100% certain it's losing 120V, it's just shutting off. If the control module for the HVAC system is controlled by 12V from the converter or battery, then a failure of the converter would cause it to shut down.

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Old 10-13-2017, 03:49 PM   #51
txfireguy2003
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Well, I'm back at the camper this weekend. I lost track of time and didn't order the new power converter like I had planned, but I did slap a new deep cycle battery on her and so far, so good. I'm going on 24 hours of constant runtime with no shutdowns ado far. Thanks for all the help. I'll probably go ahead and replace/ upgrade the converter soon anyway, just to be safe, but it seems to be working great right now.

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