Full blackout on shore disconnect

[Vinnie]

Switch in "on" position, unplugged 15a shore power, everything (just a couple vent fans at this point) dies, no light on the KeyTV panel, control panel won't come on.

So, dead battery that's never really been used?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

Switch in "on" position, unplugged 15a shore power, everything (just a couple vent fans at this point) dies, no light on the KeyTV panel, control panel won't come on.

So, dead battery that's never really been used?

Possible. Do you have a portable battery charger? I would hook it up directly to the battery and then unplugged from shore power what works?

[Vinnie]

I'll go dig it out. I'll see if I can get some useful readings off it. it's kinda automated, but should tell me something

[chuckster57]

I’ll be waiting.

[Vinnie]

Thank you, seriously. That was kinda funny tho. Didn't get to dragging the charger out today- had some other things to finish up first, then on this beautiful 90+ degree day with only fans in the rig, the sound of the kids playing in the pool was too much to resist. Tomorrow will be an earlier day, I think.

FWIW, if this is just an issue of the dealer battery dying (drying?) over the winter, and the whole thing will be remedied by replacing with the double 6v, it seems an easy fix. Will test first anyway to confirm.

[bobbecky]

Most likely, if you did not maintain power to the trailer over the winter and left the batteries connected, even with the battery disconnect switch turned off, there is still a drain on the batteries and if they were totally dead when you started this season, then the batteries are really gone, needing to be replaced. I have found with the red handle on the battery disconnect switch, rotate it fully in either direction, off or on, even if the pointer is past the on or off labels. If you don't, the contacts inside the switch will not make full contact when turned on.

[Vinnie]

See, that's why the possibility of the battery being DOA didn't really dawn on me. We literally drove it from the dealership, parked it behind the house, plugged into 15a with the switch in the "on" position, winterized, and waited till we were desperate to take a trip, which is now. I'd think a brand new battery would last 7 months while charging, but I guess not. I'll know more when I test it tomorrow.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

See, that's why the possibility of the battery being DOA didn't really dawn on me. We literally drove it from the dealership, parked it behind the house, plugged into 15a with the switch in the "on" position, winterized, and waited till we were desperate to take a trip, which is now. I'd think a brand new battery would last 7 months while charging, but I guess not. I'll know more when I test it tomorrow.

Even a brand new battery can fail. If you have it plugged in at home for 7 months there are a couple of possabilities of damaging the batteries. The most common occurence while under a constant charge is low electrolyte level in the battery. Charging by any charger will evaporate some of the "water" out of the battery. This isn't such an issue with yuour vehichle because it isn't running and charging 24/7, 365 days a year. Refilling with distilled water won't fix a damaged battery but if you maintain the level it will prevent the damage from happening.

Another possability is plugging it into a gfi outlet. The gfi trips and power is lostbperhaps for weeks until you yo into the camper and discover it. You reset the gfi and think all is well hut by that time the damage is done. The battery will never fully charge again. At this point I would recommend pulling the batteries and have them load tested. Modt any autopsrts dtores will do that freenof charge. If you need to replace then it would depend on how you camp (i.e. always connected to shore power in campgrounds, always dry camping or accasionaly dry camping) as to what battery set up I'd recommend.

[Vinnie]

I don't have a tester that will do a load test, but my automotive battery charger shows "84% charged" and an initial reading of 12.5v. I would assume that means it's not dead in any case.

This almost feels like something electrical isn't hooked up properly. From the sound of the transfer switch doing something when I turned the battery disconnect on, I would assume that's working ok. The main breaker/fuse box seems intact and there's no popped breakers, so my lack of expertise is tapped. There's a slowly flashing green light in the breaker box next to the "wizard mode button," but I can't start to guess what that is.

[chuckster57]

That flashing green light is telling the UFO where to land LOL.

Here is an explanation:

https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=69366

[Vinnie]

Pics for reference. Unknown what's the deal with the exclamation mark in the lower-right of the inCommand display. Touching it does nothing.

[Vinnie]

Ok so the battery is fully disconnected, and the Wizard light is flashing in normal mode, indicating that it's still charging the battery, which isn't connected presently. I know I'm the farthest thing from an electrical tech, but I'm nice and confused even more, now.

[chuckster57]

I would think as long as your plugged into shore power, the converter is producing DC voltage and the “wizard” doesn’t know the battery is not connected. I can’t say I’ve had to deal with that technology….yet.

[Vinnie]

What's the next step, if the obviously-charged battery isn't giving the house any power?

Don't really want to go through all the gymnastics of installing the 6v batteries if they aren't powering the trailer anyway

[chuckster57]

At this point, if your not getting any 12V to the trailer, you need to start at the battery and trace/test the positive side.

[Vinnie]

Thanks. Without the appropriate tools or knowledge to handle this, I think it's gonna get a trip back home to make them fix a few gremlins under warranty. Hate those guys, but oh well.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Vinnie

I don't have a tester that will do a load test, but my automotive battery charger shows "84% charged" and an initial reading of 12.5v. I would assume that means it's not dead in any case.

This almost feels like something electrical isn't hooked up properly. From the sound of the transfer switch doing something when I turned the battery disconnect on, I would assume that's working ok. The main breaker/fuse box seems intact and there's no popped breakers, so my lack of expertise is tapped. There's a slowly flashing green light in the breaker box next to the "wizard mode button," but I can't start to guess what that is.

Not knowing what battery charger you are using or how long it’s been charging means ithe 85% charged a a “meaningless number”. A battery with a bad cell or weakened plattes will often take a “top charge”. Depending on the battery charger it may show fully charged. Remove the charger and the next day it could be dead. I’ve had car batteries do that where you could use jumper cables to get it started. Drive for 30 min., shut it off and an hour later start right up. The next day, turn the key and nothing.

You could disconnect the charger then record the battery voltage an hour or two later. Any appreciable drop would indicate a failing battery. A load test is the only definitive way to tell.

[Vinnie]

Well I'll be dammed- while waiting for CW service to call me back, I started tinkering. As soon as I removed the negative house wire from the generator battery, and placed it on the house battery, it was all-systems go, and everything is working like it's supposed to.

I have no idea what that indicates, except, to me, that it was wired wrong to begin with. I'll go ahead with the double-6v conversion and hope this is just a fluke.

[chuckster57]

That’s why I was questioning a “separate” battery for the gen. Glad you got it figured out. Wonder how many other customers have the same issue.

[Vinnie]

The service tech seemed like he was only running on three cylinders. I have no idea why I'm surprised at this.