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Old 05-06-2021, 06:21 PM   #21
slow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I’m not a fan, but what about Hensley pro pride? As I remember you just back up lining up the receiver and the shank. Pull the hitch pin when you unhook and it all stays on the tongue.
You are close in your description. There is no pulling of a hitch pin on a ProPride to unlatch. Rather you use a breaker bar to unlatch two over center cam type locks. I estimate it takes about 50 ft-lbs to latch/unlatch. That is something to consider if strength is becoming an issue.
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Old 05-06-2021, 09:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by linux3 View Post
You are not 71 year old man trying to lift this thing.
I'm only two years short of it. But I appreciate that people have different health.

All the stingers I have ever owned have been heavy, my current ProPride being heaviest of all. I'm not sure you're going to find something you like better.

To the folks suggesting ProPride above: yeah, the hookup procedure is different, but there's still a big, heavy stinger clipped into your truck, and it's super massive (and insanely expensive).

If you try to detach at the truck instead of the hitch point, it's a bear getting hitched back up again. The hitch point has a "funneled" receiver; your truck doesn't.
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Old 05-08-2021, 08:02 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
I don't believe that hitch is going to work as a wdh for a travel trailer. What kind of hitch do you currently have and which part is difficult to manage? The shank I assume?

There are some ways to minimize the effort; I've gone thru a few attempts to make the process easier after various surgeries then falling down a mountain, breaking both bicep tendons and tearing up both rotator cuffs. Picking up and carrying the shank was an issue. I'm not aware of a "lightweight" wdh with the exception of the Andersen, which uses chains, but I don't know what the shank weighs. It does appear to have a lot less steel in it than the Equalizer I used.

Yes, that's the part. We talk about getting something lighter in weight but then you lose some strength of the hitch. The hitch came with our first trailer in 2007 and it isn't made anymore.
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Old 05-08-2021, 08:56 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
As said earlier, not a one of us has an "error free post record"... We all make mistakes, read more into or less into a post than is in the post....

That said, my concern is a scenario where someone posts a question like this one, gets a response to "look at the Reese goose box" and the poster reads that response and turns to her husband and says, "Keystone said to use a Reese goose box"... So, he gets online and orders one..... When it arrives, he finds out it's for a fifth wheel, not his trailer..... YIKES !!!!!

That was my only reason for making the post I did....
Hee hee, then we would have to buy a new fifth wheel!
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Old 05-08-2021, 08:57 AM   #25
shrtmem
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Originally Posted by hornet28 View Post
Instead of carrying it use a small cart and roll it where you want it
I've thought about that. And suggested he come up with something like that. He likes to build stuff.
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:01 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by shrtmem View Post
Yes, that's the part. We talk about getting something lighter in weight but then you lose some strength of the hitch. The hitch came with our first trailer in 2007 and it isn't made anymore.

I'm thinking the options would be 1) look into the "hitch grip" handle to help carry it, 2) build that cart so that it comes out and just sits on the cart until next use (might even use the hitch grip with that) or 3) look into the Andersen hitch. By all accounts it is much lighter than the regular heavy hitches with built in sway control. IMO (for the 2 cents it's worth) the Andersen would probably be the best answer but also more expensive.
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Old 05-09-2021, 07:25 AM   #27
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I don't see anywhere that the OP mentioned WD, so I'll answer purely based on what she asked and the link.

I have that exact hitch, but I got it for the adjustability for my equipment trailers.

That being said, yes, the hitch will work exactly as you want. However, it is an expensive hitch, so I'd be reluctant to leave it in. Your husband will be able to take it apart though and have two lighter pieces when removing it.
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Old 05-09-2021, 07:27 AM   #28
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I had a similar problem, being 71 with back and shoulder surgeries. The combination of the hitch grip and a trolley I built which locates the hitch at the receiver height has made it pretty easy.
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:41 AM   #29
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I'll toss another vote in for the Andersen.
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:51 AM   #30
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Winch

I use a atv utility winch mounted in the ceiling of my garage and two straps to lift mine out of the truck with no hassles. It has a remote control all you need is a ac to dc converter
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:52 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by hornet28 View Post
Instead of carrying it use a small cart and roll it where you want it
That would be my suggestion. No need to take it off the truck when you're on the road. Buy a "Little Red Wagon" like the children play with. A 27' cougar was our last trailer before we switched to a Class B+. At 82 years old we were experiencing the same problems, along with bending down to set the trailer jacks - but we're still traveling and enjoying RVing! Trying to mount a 15 hp outboard on my aluminum boat was the last straw - and my back will never be the same!
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:16 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by LHaven View Post
Part of the problem is that the stinger is heavy, and the other is that it is awkward to lug. There's a third-party tool that reduces the latter problem to simply carrying a balanced horizontal handle. It doesn't make it lighter, of course, just easier to carry, and it adds only two pounds. You can check out the video at the link and see if you think that might help you.
I've seen this, not sure it would be of help as the weight is still there to pick up and carry. Do you use this?
Thanks!
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:21 AM   #33
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That would be my suggestion. No need to take it off the truck when you're on the road. Buy a "Little Red Wagon" like the children play with. A 27' cougar was our last trailer before we switched to a Class B+. At 82 years old we were experiencing the same problems, along with bending down to set the trailer jacks - but we're still traveling and enjoying RVing! Trying to mount a 15 hp outboard on my aluminum boat was the last straw - and my back will never be the same!
That's about where we are at. We are looking at class A but for what we can afford (both retired-how come prices go up but not our retirement checks?!) I lose a lot in space. Our current trailer, Keystone Cougar 2017 327reswe has a double slide in the living room area. You don't get that too much in a gas motorhome. Do you camp in your class B or stay in cabins at your destination?
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:23 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Smartin108 View Post
I had a similar problem, being 71 with back and shoulder surgeries. The combination of the hitch grip and a trolley I built which locates the hitch at the receiver height has made it pretty easy.
Do you have a picture of what you built? My husband likes to build stuff.
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:26 AM   #35
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I'm going to look at the Anderson hitches. We have a 2015 srv, F350 and tow a 2017 Keystone Cougar 32RESWE unloaded weight 7360. What hitch would be a good match?
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:45 AM   #36
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Reese goose box is for fifth wheel unless something new just came out!
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:58 AM   #37
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For many, there may come a time that you just can’t or shouldn’t try to remove the hitch from the receiver due to weight & your safety.

I have seen pole like markers to put on the hitch to remind you and everyone there is a huge knee and shin knocker sticking out. Be mindful backing in to curb parking and don’t let the hitch hang over the sidewalk and become a danger for others.

Removing and putting a hitch back in the receiver can be dangerous for some people. You can’t depend on someone always being there to assist you.

No quality hitch for your load is going to be light.
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:58 AM   #38
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Your trailer is 9k gvw and a bumper pull (to eliminate the confusion about a goosebox).

I've never used the Andersen for a bumper pull and have questioned how the poly bushings would hold up over time BUT in your case it just might be the answer.

https://www.amazon.com/3324-Andersen...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Looks like it weighs 51.9lbs. Realize that will primarily be in the shank and ball but still likely considerably less that working with something like an Equalizer. If you use a cart, the hitch grip or whatever you will still have to manage the weight of the existing hitch shank/ball. The link I posted is to Amazon but there are lots of sellers of that hitch so look around for best pricing and shipping if you decide to go that route. Lots of videos showing the installation as well.
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Old 05-09-2021, 11:37 AM   #39
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I'm going to look at the Anderson hitches. We have a 2015 srv, F350 and tow a 2017 Keystone Cougar 32RESWE unloaded weight 7360. What hitch would be a good match?
Depends on the size of the ball and the size of your receiver. all the 2" receivers with the 2 5/16 ball are 14K lbs, the 2 1/2 and 3" are rated for 16K lbs.

I tow my 27SABWE rated at 8800 lbs with my 18 Ram 2500. I have a 2 1/2" receiver but I bought my Andersen for my previous tow vehicle and it had a 2" receiver. I had an adapter sleeve tack welded into my receiver so I didn't need to replace my hitch. It handles the trailer fine. I especially like the fact I can hitch and un hitch without any tools and there is NO grease to deal with. Just go to Andersen's website, they have fitment guide there to help you pick out the correct one for your application.
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Old 05-09-2021, 11:46 AM   #40
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I use a hensley and the hitch stays with the trailer. The only part you need to lift is the stinger which weighs maybe 30 lbs. Someone mentioned the over center latches being difficult, they are not and only require 10 to 15 pounds of force to engage. It takes more effort to use the snap up brackets
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