What Kind of Generator to Buy?

[skenney]

What type of generator would the Forum recommend that I purchase to run my lights and what not on my 2011 Outback 280RS? Do I really NEED to spend $3500 on a Yamaha 4500W generator or can I afford to go cheaper? Thank you for any and all input.

Steve

[f6bits]

A 2000W generator will run everything but the A/C. The A/C will take another 2000W.

[michol02]

I used a 5000 watt cheap generator (30amp) from Lowes on my Cougar for a few days(continuously), and it ran everything in the trailer. There's one at Lowes now (looks better than the briggs i have) made by Generac, 5000 watts continuous, for $649.00 (Just some info to consider).

[skenney]

Does it really boil down to "You get what you pay for?"

[f6bits]

The inverter generators are the expensive ones. They vary the speed depending on load and produce very clean power. The cheap generators run at full speed full time and don’t produce the cleanest power. Much less regulating going on in them.

So, if you don’t have delicate electronics and you don’t mind the noise, get a cheap generator.

[skenney]

Very interesting. Thank you all for the information. I appreciate the feedback.

[jq1031]

I own a Dometic 3000W portable. I find it perfect for my needs as it even runs my 15 KW air conditioner, available for about $750 online

[allentx1]

On my Avalanche 340TG there is a compartment where the landing gear is located that does not have the same rubber floor as the basement. It also is not sealed up from the elements and even has 2 circular airvents to the exterior... is this where I would put a generator? Do you guys mount them inside or sit them on th eground outside?

[f6bits]

I put mine on the ground, as far away as possible. No way do I want the exhaust anywhere near my trailer.

jq1031, I saw that Dometic one too late into the game, but I’m happy with my Yamaha 2000. The 2000 is pretty light and quiet. The Dometic is heavier and louder. But if I ever wanted to run A/C, I’d probably get the Dometic rather than another Yamaha 2000 to run in parallel.

[smiller]

There are essentially two classes of small gasoline-powered generators, those using and inverter and those that use a traditional design. The former are quieter and produce much higher-quality power (in terms of voltage and frequency stability, distortion, etc.), but can also cost twice as much or more per watt. Whether the difference is worth it or not depends on your intended use and budget. To me it's a one-time expense and I would rather put up some more money and enjoy the benefits of the inverter units, but for occasional use a standard unit would probably do and some are priced very competitively ($300 or so for 3 kW, can't beat that.)

[f6bits]

I forgot to mention point out that while my 2000W generator won’t run my A/C, you can infer that it takes more than 2000 watts to run the A/C, leaving you with less than 1000 watts on the Dometic, so you’ll have to be careful when you choose to run some of your appliances, like the microwave and electric option on the water heater.

[jbsmith]

I'm ashamed to admit how much I paid for my Honda EU3000is, but it's very quiet...about as quiet as the rooftop A/C. The electric start is great and I plan to convert it to propane after the warranty expires. I originally bought the 3000is Handi which is a lot lighter, but also five times (7dB) louder.

I started with a 13.5k BTU AC but have since upgraded to a 15k BTU unit with our new fifth wheel. A second 13.5k unit is installed over the bedroom. Obviously, I will only be able to run one at a time when using the genny.

I haven't tried running the 15k AC on the genny yet, so I may be adding a second 3000is running in parallel with the other or possibly a single 6500is. However, the bigger genny is almost 300 lbs...not really practical to move around (IMO) unless you have a toy hauler or a strong back.

If the 3 kVA unit wont carry us, we'll just use prepared sites and boondock during more temperate times of year when AC isn't mandatory.

P.S. Please consider your neighbors and the impact of noise pollution when buying a genny...nothing worse than someone wheeling out an industrial size generator at the campground running at +110 dBA (exaggerating) to ruin the outdoor experience for everyone.

I listened to my neighbor run a cheap 6500 kVA generator blaring away for a week when we lost power due to ice storms. I had folks coming by asking if we still had power, they couldn't hear the Honda purring away in the back yard.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[smiller]

Originally Posted by jbsmith

I'm ashamed to admit how much I paid for my Honda EU3000is, but it's very quiet...about as quiet as the rooftop A/C.

Noise level is probably the most important spec by far. No one wants to either run or listen to a generator and if your great deal is too noisy for you to use without being self-conscious then it won't really end up being much of a deal. Pay attention to noise specs, and even a few dB can make a big difference.

[mapleman3]

When want "clean" voltage....what's the best way to check? I will be trying my sportsman 2000w from tractor supply and then see what the voltage at the plugs are as I turn on the micro ....I wont need it for really anything else but charging the batterys and an occasional plugging in a computer to charge....ok maybe a tv if its raining

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[smiller]

Originally Posted by mapleman3

When want "clean" voltage....what's the best way to check?

Pretty much need test equipment for objective measurements. As far as how much your various electrical loads will care, some won't notice much at all, some will work better with better quality power, and some won't work very well at all without a clean power supply, depends on their design.

[jbsmith]

Originally Posted by smiller

Pay attention to noise specs, and even a few dB can make a big difference.

If you're not familiar with dB and log scale, just keep in mind that an increase of 3 dB doubles the sound pressure, I.e. twice as loud, 6 dB is four times, 7 dB is five times, and 10 dB is ten times or an order of magnitude.

There's often a direct correlation of price to noise. Cheap job site generators are obnoxiously loud and won't win you any friends at the campground.

[jq1031]

Originally Posted by sdayman

I put mine on the ground, as far away as possible. No way do I want the exhaust anywhere near my trailer.

jq1031, I saw that Dometic one too late into the game, but I’m happy with my Yamaha 2000. The 2000 is pretty light and quiet. The Dometic is heavier and louder. But if I ever wanted to run A/C, I’d probably get the Dometic rather than another Yamaha 2000 to run in parallel.

Your right on both counts, but it really does a great job & the electric start is a major plus. I have a back problem so I keep it on my truck & use an 30amp extention cord to connect when needed. I wish it was as quiet as the Honda however, it's really not a problem for boondocking as most understand the need for power. I always turn it off if I feel it may be disturbing a fellow RVer.

[CarKath]

I skimmed this thread at best, my opinion, buy a Yamaha gen. Honda are good...........

[skenney]

Originally Posted by smiller

Pretty much need test equipment for objective measurements. As far as how much your various electrical loads will care, some won't notice much at all, some will work better with better quality power, and some won't work very well at all without a clean power supply, depends on their design.

I wonder if it would be possible to hook up an oscilloscope to the 110 outlets in the camper to get a visual of the p-p nominal voltage and whatever noise might be coming in over the line? I wonder if people install filters in-line to clean up some of that dirty power?

[skenney]

I am impressed with all the input coming out here. Keep it coming.

I found a clean-burning Sportsman LPG 4000 Peak Watts Portable Propane Generator with CARB Compliant. This guy runs at 68db. Anyone want to chime in if this is loud or quiet? At $450 I am curious if it is better to get a Honda?