Cougar 26RBS battery dead after driving

[Sarge2]

Sorry the "fleet" are patrol cars... extremely high discharge and charge, lots of idle time and sometimes high draw for hours if on a traffic crash or incident... so probably not a fair example for common vehicle batteries... I have no experience with Deep Cycle batteries so I appreciate the education... may look into that down the road... probably after retirement in a year or so...

[Dave Gamble]

Originally Posted by tmason

Anyone question why the red wire is connected to what would appear to be the ground terminal of the battery ? Just a thought.

Yes, it looks that way in the picture, but the ground wire is red with a thin black line on it, as opposed to the all red positive line.

It has to be one of the stupidest things I've ever seen with regard to deliberately causing confusion and potentially expensive mistakes. I noticed it early on and take special care to make sure not to get them mixed up. But really - an almost all red ground wire? What were they thinking???

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

True "deep cycle" batteries are a "breed all their own"....

The "hybrid" will always have CCA or Cold Cranking Amps listed on it. The "deep cycle" battery will not have that designation.

What makes them different? The "true deep cycle" battery has thicker plates which can withstand repeated deeper discharges without failure. The "hybrid" has thinner plates so it can deliver higher "cranking amps" (not needed in a true deep cycle battery) but because of the thinner plates, is more subject to damage and failure when discharged deeply.

As for "true deep cycle" 12 volt batteries, they are available, usually cost slightly more than two 6 volt batteries of similar 20 amp discharge ratings. That's why most people (IMHO) buy 6 volt batteries: Easier to handle due to weight and cost a bit less.

Bummer.

I've been having constant problems recently with my 12 V hybrid, so I brought it back to Interstate, who told me it was just out of warranty. I tried to get a true deep cycle battery to replace it, and they told me they didn't have anything like that. I thought Interstate carried everything. So now I'm stuck with another hybrid battery of exactly the same kind I had before, though I was willing to spend the money to get something better.

Where do you go to get the real deep cycle batteries?

[MarkEHansen]

Costco, Batteries Plus, among others.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Bummer.

I've been having constant problems recently with my 12 V hybrid, so I brought it back to Interstate, who told me it was just out of warranty. I tried to get a true deep cycle battery to replace it, and they told me they didn't have anything like that. I thought Interstate carried everything. So now I'm stuck with another hybrid battery of exactly the same kind I had before, though I was willing to spend the money to get something better.

Where do you go to get the real deep cycle batteries?

Whoever at Interstate you talked to either just started work there this morning or is should be fired for not knowing anything about their product line.....

Here are two (there are many more) deep cycle Interstate batteries... If you notice in the "Cold Cranking Amps" section, they are listed as "N/A". If you elect to go with these batteries, you'll need two as they are 6 volts each.
https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ategoryid=true
https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ategoryid=true

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ies/deep-cycle

[LHaven]

After spending some time with their website, I've determined that those are the only true deep cycle batteries that Interstate sells. And since I'm on the road, and I'm not set up for 6v batteries, I guess I got all they can offer me. Next time I'll know to go somewhere else.

[JRTJH]

If you're looking for a single 12 volt deep cycle battery. Interstate also manufactures that style. https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...s/gc12-hcl-utl

It's the GC12 and is available at Costco as well as "other fine outlets" throughout the US. Here's the Costco link: https://www.costco.com/Interstate-12...100476402.html Our Costco has them in stock nearly all the time, but I understand that some stores don't carry them and have to special order for you.

Notice the price is about $50 more than two GC6 batteries, the available 20 amp capacity is very similar and the 12 volt battery weighs 85 pounds. That 85 pounds makes it difficult for most to "wrestle on the tongue or in the battery compartment" of most trailers. That's why most use GC6 rather than GC12.

But, Interstate does have 12 volt "true deep cycle batteries" and the link above is just one of many places to get one....

[pas1963]

Have a 2019 Cougar 26RBS that was bought in June 2018. Had dealer upgrade the battery to AGM but killed it by parking it in storage and didn't know the hitch jack light was on. Just bought a lithium 100ah to replace. Hopefully save money in the long run.

[MarkEHansen]

Flooded lead acid RV batteries require maintenance and upkeep. You can't just leave them sit in storage for weeks and expect them to just work as though they were batteries in a flashlight.

There are other things in the trailer which draw power so long as the battery is connected - even if the factory cut-off switch is turned off.

If you create your own cut-off switch (or disconnect the cable to the battery) so there is absolutely no connection, the battery will still drain over time. With no load on them, they probably need a top-off charge every month or two and need to have the water level checked at least as often.

While my trailer is in storage, I bring my batteries home and keep them on battery maintainers as well as check the water every month.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by pas1963

Have a 2019 Cougar 26RBS that was bought in June 2018. Had dealer upgrade the battery to AGM but killed it by parking it in storage and didn't know the hitch jack light was on. Just bought a lithium 100ah to replace. Hopefully save money in the long run.

Even with the hitch jack light turned off, your trailer, equipped with the OEM battery cutoff switch, will completely discharge any battery you install in roughly 7-10 days. The "phantom drains" (LPG detector, thermostat, remote control receiver, stereo memory circuits/clock, etc) in all RV's are not "turned off" with the OEM BCO switch.

The only "effective means to disconnect the battery" in any modern RV is to either physically disconnect the battery cables or to install a "second BCO switch on either the positive or negative battery cable "AT THE BATTERY CABLE" (your choice of which end of the cable to use)...

[flybouy]

Reading what the OP has written I would recommend you unplug from shore power, remove the battery and get it load tested. A battery with ab"shorted cell" can seemingly hold a charge for a short time period. If the water has boiled out of the battery then it's never going to be right again. Same thing goes if the battery has been discharged below 10 volts.

The truck's wiring will not supply the same amperage to charge the battery as the trailer converter. A heavily discharged battery connected to the umbilical to the truck will not charge that battery over a 2 hr drive. It could take 6 hrs or more.

Comments on the landing gear, slides, tongue jacks... these are loads that draw much higher amperage than the converter can supply. Therefore, operation of those devices should not be conducted without a fully charged battery connected properly to the trailer.

The only truly definitive test is either checking the acid in each cell with a battery hydrometer (about $10) or with a load tester (about $50, or free test at auto parts store). Don't assume a "new" battery (especially installed by the dealership) equales a "good battery"