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Old 10-18-2013, 05:54 AM   #1
LZScout
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Water Flow Restrictors

I've read through most of the posts of reasons for low water pressure. I've changed to 5/8" supply hose and am using an adjustable type pressure regulator. The inline, whole house type water regulator I'm using does seem to drop pressure about 5 lbs but that won't explain the low pressure I'm seeing at the sinks/shower.

I just finished winterizing and while doing so, checked all the aerators for debris and all were clear. I did find several built in restriction devices. This one is in the kitchen pull out hose and doesn't appear to be removable:



I also disconnected the shower hose and found this at the top of the outflow:





Can these be removed somehow? If not, can they be drilled out and if so, how much is enough?


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Old 10-18-2013, 06:29 AM   #2
JRTJH
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Yes, they can be drilled out, how much is a personal choice. I'd start gradually and work up to what's "satisfactory" for your personal taste.

Remember, however, that increasing the volume of water flow in the shower dramatically decreases the amount of time you have before the limited supply of hot water is consumed. In other words, having a lot of water (and the resulting higher pressure) from the shower head means you'll use your limited 6 gallon HWH supply rather quickly. It's no fun showering when the final rinse is in cold water <BRRRRR> A 10 or 12 gallon HWH is better, but still no match for the 50 gallon HWH at home.

As for the sink faucet, I'm sure you can drill that out also, but not sure if it would make very much difference. The new Pfister "pull out faucet" we just bought for our house has a small 3/8" hose with a restrictor on it. It seems that all the water, whether to fill the sink or to use the spray has "about the same" pressure, but it takes at least a minute longer to fill the kettle to boil water. Even the input supply lines are significantly smaller than the old 1/2" tubing found on kitchen faucets just 4 or 5 years ago. I think it's all a part of the "plan" to reduce water useage. It started with shower flow restrictors, moved to smaller fill basins on toilets (now they are down to 1.1 gal per flush), then to faucet restrictors and it continues. Hmmmmm all this "conservation" inside, and "they" still use the same hoses/sprinklers/soakers outside.....

As frustrating as it is (at home) I wouldn't try to match the home shower volume in an RV, the hot water supply just isn't there to provide the same type of shower unless you're "really REALLY quick" with your soaping/rinsing.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:06 PM   #3
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I didn't like the water flow through my original shower head, so I went and bought the Oxygenics shower head. I unhooked the hose from the shower faucet, and found the same as LZScout. That reducer opening to the hose is 3/8".


The hose opening is 5/8".


I was thinking of drilling out the reducer, but looking at it closer I saw that it was removable, so I popped it out. A little rubber flapper piece was in there-


That rubber flapper covered these two holes-


So my question is...How does all this work? What does the flapper do? Is it really needed? Why are there two holes (hot/cold)? Do I remove the removable reducer and flapper and drill out the lower reducer to the same size as the hose opening (5/8")? Do I drill out both holes in both reducers? Anyone else do something like this?

Thanks,

Rick

Thinking about this a little more, I think that flapper is a flow control valve...won't let the hot water back into the cold and vice-versa.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:24 PM   #4
hankpage
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Plumbing code in stick homes requires a back-flow preventer (your little black rubber thingy) and a water saving restricter on shower wands. I would imagine the fixture manufacturers carry these over to RV use. (Theoretically: If the showerhead is laying in the showerpan or tub, the waste water could siphon back and contaminate fresh water supply)

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Old 02-12-2014, 05:04 PM   #5
Bob Landry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Yes, they can be drilled out, how much is a personal choice. I'd start gradually and work up to what's "satisfactory" for your personal taste.

Remember, however, that increasing the volume of water flow in the shower dramatically decreases the amount of time you have before the limited supply of hot water is consumed. In other words, having a lot of water (and the resulting higher pressure) from the shower head means you'll use your limited 6 gallon HWH supply rather quickly. It's no fun showering when the final rinse is in cold water <BRRRRR> A 10 or 12 gallon HWH is better, but still no match for the 50 gallon HWH at home.

As for the sink faucet, I'm sure you can drill that out also, but not sure if it would make very much difference. The new Pfister "pull out faucet" we just bought for our house has a small 3/8" hose with a restrictor on it. It seems that all the water, whether to fill the sink or to use the spray has "about the same" pressure, but it takes at least a minute longer to fill the kettle to boil water. Even the input supply lines are significantly smaller than the old 1/2" tubing found on kitchen faucets just 4 or 5 years ago. I think it's all a part of the "plan" to reduce water useage. It started with shower flow restrictors, moved to smaller fill basins on toilets (now they are down to 1.1 gal per flush), then to faucet restrictors and it continues. Hmmmmm all this "conservation" inside, and "they" still use the same hoses/sprinklers/soakers outside.....

As frustrating as it is (at home) I wouldn't try to match the home shower volume in an RV, the hot water supply just isn't there to provide the same type of shower unless you're "really REALLY quick" with your soaping/rinsing.
It also reduces the time it takes to fill your grey water tanks, and if you camp where there are no sewer hook-ups, that can be a significant factor. We camp a lot in COE parks and barely make it through a weekend with two 30 gallon grey tanks. I've helped a little by opening my grey valves and let the two tanks fill up equally and that makes a big difference. I realize I can't take a 10 minute shower like when at home, but I'm OK with that and the pressure is enough coming through my Watts regulator to shower and rinse dishes and that works for me. If I feel the need for a longer shower, I always have the option of using the CG showers.
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:25 PM   #6
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hmm

my sink pressure is sufficient my shower was horrible. I bought a shower head/ hose kit at walmart. it was a energy efficient one that works great on pump or city hook up. I just screwed the junky shower hed off and screwed this one on the pressure is fine and it uses 1.5 gallons per minute.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterpik-V...-Head/21799114
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:02 AM   #7
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Just an update....I went and put everything back together without any modifications. I did install the new Oxygenics showerhead, and as everyone else claims on this board, it's a lot better than the original one. If I ever feel I need more pressure, I'll start drilling!!

For anyone else attempting this, there may be 2 holes you'll have to drill out.

Rick
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