BLack Tank Access

[K4BEV]

And yet another question...

I've just ordered a Tornado tank cleaner and now I'm wondering what is the easiest way to access the tank on my Laredo.
Is there a way to get to it without dropping the coroplast?
Anything else I should be doing or inspecting while under there?

[MIKEPATC]

To gain access:
Your best choice would be to cut an access hatch. Take a couple of the screws that hold the underbelly out and wedge the underbelly away from the frame just enough to be able to shine a light in to see where you are at. Fish a measuring tape into that opening to see how far from the frame edge you want the hatch to be.
When you make the first cut, which should be perpendicular to the frame on the rear side of where you want the hatch, wedge it open and shine the light it to see where you are at.
Figure out where you want the cuts that were parallel to the frame for the sides of the hatch using that info. If you are in doubt, make the hatch bigger than you need it to be and the area you need to work on should be in it somewhere.
Be careful to make a shallow cut as to not penetrate your holding tanks. Use a retractable utility knife with the blade extension set to match the belly thickness as closely as possible.
Create a wood frame for the hatch. Use stainless screws and pressure treated fence board for the frame around the opening. Make the hatch with the "hinge" side towards the front of the trailer. In case you forget to put the screws back in, air flow will push it closed ... in place of trying to rip it off.
Just be sure not to use screws that are longer than the combined thickness of your board plus the underbelly to be sure you don't penetrate any tanks.
If you decide to take the cover off to access the tanks be sure to take note of the screws near the tanks. Some of them are shorter than the rest to keep from going through the tanks.
Be careful to note where the shorter ones are when you remove them so that you can reinstall them in the proper place. If you don't it's all too easy to put the wrong one in and put a hole in one of the tanks and that will really be a problem.

If you think you need to take the underbelly down and put it backup, make sure you have a buddy or two that will suffer with you while you take it down and put it back up. Failing that have a couple of jacks and a 2x4 to hold it in place as you attach screws to hold it.

Enjoy

[therink]

Originally Posted by MIKEPATC

To gain access:
Your best choice would be to cut an access hatch. Take a couple of the screws that hold the underbelly out and wedge the underbelly away from the frame just enough to be able to shine a light in to see where you are at. Fish a measuring tape into that opening to see how far from the frame edge you want the hatch to be.
When you make the first cut, which should be perpendicular to the frame on the rear side of where you want the hatch, wedge it open and shine the light it to see where you are at.
Figure out where you want the cuts that were parallel to the frame for the sides of the hatch using that info. If you are in doubt, make the hatch bigger than you need it to be and the area you need to work on should be in it somewhere.
Be careful to make a shallow cut as to not penetrate your holding tanks. Use a retractable utility knife with the blade extension set to match the belly thickness as closely as possible.
Create a wood frame for the hatch. Use stainless screws and pressure treated fence board for the frame around the opening. Make the hatch with the "hinge" side towards the front of the trailer. In case you forget to put the screws back in, air flow will push it closed ... in place of trying to rip it off.
Just be sure not to use screws that are longer than the combined thickness of your board plus the underbelly to be sure you don't penetrate any tanks.
If you decide to take the cover off to access the tanks be sure to take note of the screws near the tanks. Some of them are shorter than the rest to keep from going through the tanks.
Be careful to note where the shorter ones are when you remove them so that you can reinstall them in the proper place. If you don't it's all too easy to put the wrong one in and put a hole in one of the tanks and that will really be a problem.

If you think you need to take the underbelly down and put it backup, make sure you have a buddy or two that will suffer with you while you take it down and put it back up. Failing that have a couple of jacks and a 2x4 to hold it in place as you attach screws to hold it.

Enjoy

X2- this is what I did. I now have a removable section to access the tanks and valves any time I need.
I went to a local sign shop and they gave me a 2' x 2' section of black coroplast. I placed this piece over my smaller opining, used short self tapping bolts to secure and then Gorilla taped the edges. Looks neat and will be easy to remove. On my unit, the black and grey tank are together with about 18" in between. This is where both valves, and all gauge sensors and wiring are located. I can now access these without problem.
Oh yeah, be prepared to have a bunch of sawdust land on yor face when you cut it open . Lol
Steve