Adding Washer & Dryer - 240 volt ?

[JimJan]

We are looking at adding a washer and dryer as we now stay for long periods in the camper. Been reading that the combo units take many hours to run a load and the individual machines seem better.
Most of the dryers that run on 120 volts are very small. The write-ups also indicate the cycle time is 3 times longer as running on 240 volts.

Does anyone have a stackable Washer / dryer running on 120 volts that operates well with a decent load size?

Or has anyone run a 240 volt circuit from the power panel for the dryer?

Thanks for some ideas.

[BrooksFam]

Can you get 240vac service where you park the TT?

[dutchmensport]

My mother-in-law and my sister had one like this for years and years and years. I don't know if it's 120 or 240, but neither of them complained about load size:

Click here.

Made me look again, it's 120.

[RubyCJ]

The 50 amp service is 2 legs of 120 volts, together they are 240 if properly connected.

[RubyCJ]

Thanks, it looks nice but the dryer specs show 240 volts

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by RubyCJ

Thanks, it looks nice but the dryer specs show 240 volts

From the Overview of the linked dryer. Bottom bullet shows 120vac;

OVERVIEW
At GE Appliances, we bring good things to life, by designing and building the world's best appliances. Our goal is to help people improve their lives at home by providing quality appliances that were made for real life. Whether it's enjoying the tradition of making meals from scratch or tackling a mountain of muddy jeans and soccer jerseys, GE Appliances are crafted to support any and every task in the home.
Rotary-electromechanical dryer controls - allow fast, easy cycle selection

12 wash cycles - multiple cycles are designed to specifically handle various fabrics and soils

6 wash/rinse temperatures - select the right temperature for ideal wash results

1 wash/spin speed combination - speeds are matched to fabric type for great clothes care

Auto-load sensing - washer will automatically measure the load size and add just the right amount of water

Rotary-electronic controls (washer) - simplify cycle selection

Bleach and fabric softener dispensers - solutions are automatically mixed with wash water for bright, soft-to-the-touch results

Cycle status lights - easily see where your load is in the cleaning process

120 Volt Washer

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by JimJan

We are looking at adding a washer and dryer as we now stay for long periods in the camper. Been reading that the combo units take many hours to run a load and the individual machines seem better.
Most of the dryers that run on 120 volts are very small. The write-ups also indicate the cycle time is 3 times longer as running on 240 volts.

Does anyone have a stackable Washer / dryer running on 120 volts that operates well with a decent load size?

Or has anyone run a 240 volt circuit from the power panel for the dryer?

Thanks for some ideas.

We bought this trailer to get a high profile 5th so that a stackable washer/dryer (vented) would fit. The combo units take too long and the results when done are not what we wanted.

Our units are 120v and do an acceptable job. There is just the two of us and we wash clothes once a week. The washer and dryer do a good job performing their individual functions.

Do they have the capacity or perform as well as our xlarge washer dryer (240v) at home? No. Should they? No. However they are well within acceptable limits and FAR better than trying to compromise the electrical system on the RV to accommodate a 240v plug for a dryer to gain a minimal improvement - not worthwhile at all IMO. I will add that having an onboard washer/dryer when staying for extended periods is absolutely wonderful....particularly for DW.

[JRTJH]

I believe that to "properly wire" your trailer, you'd need to add a sub-panel to tap off of the OEM power center, adapting the two legs of 120 VAC to "merge them for 240 VAC service"....

That's not a "big issue" given the current OEM wiring input is easily adapted...

The problem, IMHO, would be installing the wiring (ROMEX 10-3) from that sub-panel to the front closet where the 240 VAC dryer is installed....

The GE stacked unit linked in a previous post is a 120 VAC washer/240 VAC dryer combo rated for a 30 amp circuit. So, you would not get "satisfactory drying times" if you attempted to install that unit and operate it on the existing trailer outlet that's in your "washer/dryer space" (120 VAC/20 amps)

There are "120 VAC stacking units" (separate washer and dryer with both rated to operate on 120 VAC) as well as "combo units" (a single unit designed to both wash and dry clothing and operate on 120 VAC).

We don't have the space to install either, but if it were me, and I was POSITIVE that the space designed by Keystone would accommodate a stacking unit, I'd opt for two separate, stacking components.

As a "side note", there are several Keystone floorplans that "advertise a stackable washer/dryer space" and the pair will fit in the space, but only if the front of the cabinet is removed and rebuilt. Apparently in those trailer models, the cabinet depth is not big enough for the units to fit AND the door to close, so removing the cabinet face/door is necessary. A couple of owners of newly delivered trailers have been able to get Keystone to modify their trailer to do what was advertised, but those "successes" were only on trailers where the washer/dryer was included "on the original purchase document" as a part of the purchase. So, measure carefully before you commit to a stacking unit. It may not fit in your trailer, even though it's advertised as an option.

[flybouy]

For the 240v ac question, it would be a daunting and fairly expensive task to run a 240v ac line for a dryer. First off, the rv power distribution centers are not designed like residential panels. The rv panels do not occomnate a bridged beaker. Most 240v dryers require two 30amp breakers that are tied together so if one trips the other will disconnect also.

The only way to accomplish this in an rv would be to add a 50 Amp main panel with a 30 Amp breaker for the dryer and a 50 breaker for the rv panel turning it into a sub panel. Good luck finding the space for that. Then there's the issue of running 3 conductor with ground #10 wire to the dryer location.

In plain English, I don't think the "juice is worth the squeeze". It's a camper not a house. You can't have everything.

[sourdough]

John brought up a couple of points I didn't speak to;

We bought the Slendide stackable units, both designed for 120v use and they work flawlessly plus they had great reviews across the board. I have my doubts about a 120/240v unit which suggests to me optimum performance would be derived at 240v. I would rather have one maximized for the 120v which is going to power it.

We use one at a condo where we stay in CO that appears to be the same as the one in the link that runs on 240v. DW advised that there "might" be a bit of improvement in performance with the 240v, that was a "might be" and is negligible.

As was mentioned, the existing wiring for a 120v 15/20A (probably 20) circuit for a 120v washer/dryer will not be sufficient for a 240v unit and will require some wiring additions/modifications that may/may not compromise the overall OE wiring of the trailer. I would go with the 120v no questions asked and never look back. JMO

[JimJan]

Thanks to all for the information. I am not afraid of rewiring to a sub panel if it will give an appropriate benefit. If just minimal it won't be worth it.
As for the 120V washer and 120V dryer I continue to look for one. I read about the Splendide washer that seems to need control boards replaced. May be a electric supply issue?
Danny, What model did you get?

[rhagfo]

It requires a 50/30 amp quad tandem circuit breaker to replace the 50 amp main.

[travelin texans]

We've had both the combo & the stackable all were the 120 volt Splendide brand. The combo did a good job, took up less space, but took 2-3 hours per load & ironing was required on most everything. The stackables (I believe the Ariston models) work great, held a decent size load & took normal about of time to wash/dry.
I'd recommend either, but the stackables would be preferable.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by RubyCJ

The 50 amp service is 2 legs of 120 volts, together they are 240 if properly connected.

All 240 volt services in the US are 2 legs of 120 volts. The issue is you cannot access 240 volts from an RV electric panel except in very high-end MH.

If the 50 amp main is in the center of the panel you can not access 240 volts. If the 50 amp main is on the end of the panel then you can access 240 volts.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

It requires a 50/30 amp quad tandem circuit breaker to replace the 50 amp main.

see post #14

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

It requires a 50/30 amp quad tandem circuit breaker to replace the 50 amp main.

Originally Posted by cavie

All 240 volt services in the US are 2 legs of 120 volts. The issue is you cannot access 240 volts from an RV electric panel except in very high-end MH.

If the 50 amp main is in the center of the panel you can not access 240 volts. If the 50 amp main is on the end of the panel then you can access 240 volts.

Originally Posted by cavie

see post #14

Well sorry I do have a 240 volt 30 amp circuit in our 32’ 50 amp Copper Canyon. This done with either a tap at the main to a 30 amp sub panel or a quad tandem main with mated 30 amp double breaker.
Basically you can tap a single 30 amp 240 volt circuit on any RV 50 amp panel.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by JimJan

Thanks to all for the information. I am not afraid of rewiring to a sub panel if it will give an appropriate benefit. If just minimal it won't be worth it.
As for the 120V washer and 120V dryer I continue to look for one. I read about the Splendide washer that seems to need control boards replaced. May be a electric supply issue?
Danny, What model did you get?

Jim the washer is a Splendide ARWXF129W and dryer a D-TVM63X from memory. I believe those are now obsolete and replaced with DV6400X dryer and WFL1300XD washer from what I was told.

Per DW, and my seat of the pants watching her experience, trying to put in the 240V wouldn't gain you much of anything; you are still stuck with the units that have to fit inside the trailer enclosure.

[gearhead]

OP: does it have to be stackable? We got Magic Chef from Home Depot, regular on the floor side by side. The dryer is 120v 3.5 cubic ft. $311
Washer is 2.0 cubic ft. $269.
We added Home Depot warranty that I think was less than $75.
We've been happy with them.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Well sorry I do have a 240 volt 30 amp circuit in our 32’ 50 amp Copper Canyon. This done with either a tap at the main to a 30 amp sub panel or a quad tandem main with mated 30 amp double breaker.
Basically you can tap a single 30 amp 240 volt circuit on any RV 50 amp panel.

This is the first time in 5 years that I have heard of this configuration.

[travelin texans]

Read a few of the different forums & you'll find a good many folks that the 2 different power sources, 12 volt & 120 volt, are confusing & scary enough then throwing 240 volt into the mix is just going to get someone hurt really bad.
If the 120 volt dryer is is too slow in drying, use the laundromat dryers, they'll fry (& dry) your clothes very fast, no rewiring, no holes to cut, just drop in quarters.