Need help deciding which equal-i-zer 4pt to use.

[win]

Hello.
Just bought a new 2013 keystone hideout 22rbwe. According to the brochure, shipping weight of the trailer is 4860lbs, gvwr of 7600lbs, with a hitch weight of 590lbs. TV is a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab.
I ordered the equal-i-zer 10k hitch to go with it. Also upgraded to two 6v batteries. My question is, with a tongue weight of 590 not including propane, batteries, loaded trailer with 60gal fresh water, and maybe 200lbs in the truck bed, is the 10k hitch suffice or would I need to go with 12k? The salesman said 8k is suggested but if I wanted to upgrade to go with 10k. He was also referring to Reese Basic WD hitch. I haven't picked up the trailer yet so I could exchange the 10k with a 12k or 14k?
Thanks.

[chuck&gail]

Recommended hitch weight for travel trailers is 13% to 15% of the FULLY LOADED WEIGHT. If you use the GVWR of 7600#, then you need a tongue weight between 988 and 1140 pounds. Sounds perfect for the 12,000# Equalizer IF you run heavy. Personally we never load our TT's to the GVWR, so if it was mine I'd get tbe 10,000# Equalizer.

Ignore the idiot who says 8000#, that guy must only sell boat trailers, as those usually use 10%.

[f6bits]

Your trailer specs are similar to mine. I've never come close to the 1000 tongue weight. Not even 900. And my truck's payload capacity is 1297. So I use the 1000/10k Equalizer hitch.

I'd be astounded if you managed to load over 2500 lbs of stuff into your trailer. I can't even reach half that.

[ewkearns]

Originally Posted by f6bits

Your trailer specs are similar to mine. I've never come close to the 1000 tongue weight. Not even 900. And my truck's payload capacity is 1297. So I use the 1000/10k Equalizer hitch.

I'd be astounded if you managed to load over 2500 lbs of stuff into your trailer. I can't even reach half that.

+1

[IdahoSRT10]

Originally Posted by win

Hello.
Just bought a new 2013 keystone hideout 22rbwe. According to the brochure, shipping weight of the trailer is 4860lbs, gvwr of 7600lbs, with a hitch weight of 590lbs. TV is a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab.
I ordered the equal-i-zer 10k hitch to go with it. Also upgraded to two 6v batteries. My question is, with a tongue weight of 590 not including propane, batteries, loaded trailer with 60gal fresh water, and maybe 200lbs in the truck bed, is the 10k hitch suffice or would I need to go with 12k? The salesman said 8k is suggested but if I wanted to upgrade to go with 10k. He was also referring to Reese Basic WD hitch. I haven't picked up the trailer yet so I could exchange the 10k with a 12k or 14k?
Thanks.

10,000 lb WD hitch should be about right.

Keep an eye on the rear end temps while towing with that Ram. I had to install a MagHytec diff. cover on mine.
http://www.usnews.com/news/business/...to-axle-recall

[win]

Thanks for the input everyone. I just wasn't sure of how much added tongue weight is increased by adding 2 6v batts, 60gal water, propane, and supplies/etc in the front storage and truck bed.

As for the link regarding the rear nut coming loose, I'm a chrysler technician. I ran my vin and the rear axle nut recall does not apply to my truck. In some cases I've seen it happen with trucks where the the recall doesn't apply, so I'll be checking every now and then to see if the pinion nut is backing off.

[chartrand]

Your calculating your numbers with the added weight of water. But I'm sure most don't fill there water tanks until they get to the campgrounds. So if you do the same that weight would only be for a short distance.

-Pat

[win]

For the most part I will be filling water prior to heading out.

[michol02]

Which ever one you go with, make sure it is adjusted properly. I thought I had mine adjusted properly(truck and trailer level, tension on the bars), but the "L-bars" we're bending. I couldn't figure what would bend these stout bars, so I watched the set-up with my hitch camera while driving down the road, and when I hit medium or big bumps, the sway/torsion bars would come up, putting a lot of stress and jarring the L-bars. I adjusted the "L brackets" up one bolt hole, putting more tension on the sway/torsion bars. This eliminated the problem. I had to adjust the ball down to compensate raising the bars. My new rule is "if I can put the sway/torsion bars on without using the little tool thingy that came with the Equalizer, then they're too loose". This works for my set-up. Different set-ups may need different adjustments. I hope this will help anyone having the same problem.
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