Electrical Problem

[Bi11dawg]

Ok guys I screwed up so don't bash me too bad. It was an honest mistake.
Where I plug in my cord it says "this connection is for 208y/120-volt or 120/240-volt AC, 3 pole, 4 wire, 60hz, 50 ampere supply". Well I found out it is not for 240 volt. Fried the converter which I replace with a Progressive Dynamics model. Problem, the ac will cut on when thermostat is set below temp. Starts on low fan then after about 5 minute switches to high fan. Even when I set it only 1 degree below the current temp in trailer it continues to run. When I raise the temp say 10 degrees above the inside temp, it still runs. Any idea where to start.

BTW it is a 2012 Cougar 327 RES with a single AC and I have checked everything else and all seems to work properly.

[SAD]

Where did you plug it in such that you received straight 240V (vs 240/120)??

And how did you plug it in? Meaning, a 240V plug is 3 prong (Hot/hot/ground).... Your 50 amp RV plug is a 4 prong designed for 240/120 circuit (hot/hot/neutral/ground).

[Bi11dawg]

I have a 4 prong 50 amp outlet in my garage.

[Bob Landry]

And you didn't know that was a 240V outlet? I think there are also a few people here who are really interested to know how you managed to make a 30A RV plug fit a 50A outlet.

[Bluewater]

Bob, yes I am one of those that are totally confused with this. Not enough info to figure it out??? Maybe that will come.

[SAD]

A pic of the cord/adaptor PLUS a close up pic of the outlet would help.

[Bob Landry]

We read about this problem more than I would care to. Most of the time it's just some equipment getting fried, but the potential for serious injury is there. With as much information as there is on the internet, There's no reason to not be familiar with the basic plug configurations. You are going to be exposed to them for the remainder of your time as a RV owner. The manufacturers even make it easier now. When I was looking for components to build my break out box, the packaging for the 30A inlets actually were marked for RV.
One thing that does concern me is the number of owners who buy a trailer and do not know it if has 30A or 50A service. I suppose no one really cares as long as you are able to turn on a switch and something works.
Another source of problems is the owner who hires an electrician to install a 30A outlet for their trailer, but don't bother to tell the guy that is 120V-30A and not 240V. Again, the electrician can't be blamed for not being familiar with RVs and for doing what he was trained to do. Again, it falls back on the RV owner. I wish I knew how to fix this, but I don't.
I think a voltmeter should be in everyone's toolbox and that they know how to use it to make basic checks, Again, how do you promote this to someone who does not anticipate or suspect a problem?

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

And you didn't know that was a 240V outlet? I think there are also a few people here who are really interested to know how you managed to make a 30A RV plug fit a 50A outlet.

He already said his trailer is a 50 amp cord.

Here is a link to how a 50 amp RV cord is wired for the OP http://www.rvpowerprotection.com/Lin...%20Service.pdf

[Bi11dawg]

Javi,
Thank you for being able to read. Obviously I said it is a 50 amp 4 prong and I have a 50 amp 4 prong outlet in my garage and the sticker next to the shore line connection says 120/240 but wait I also said that too didn't I.


BTW I was writing to ask what might be wrong with my ac not how I managed to plug in a 30 amp plug into a 50 amp outlet, oh wait, no one ever said I did that anyway......And I wonder why I have not been on here in a long time.......anyway thanks for the help guys.

[B&T]

BTW I was writing to ask what might be wrong with my ac not how I managed to plug in a 30 amp plug into a 50 amp outlet, oh wait, no one ever said I did that anyway......And I wonder why I have not been on here in a long time.......anyway thanks for the help guys.
Reply With Quote

Your right, there were no helpful answers to your question -- actually no answers at all.

[Bob Landry]

Well, in your original post, a simple statement that all of your AC devices work except the A/C and what should you look for and leaving out all of the irrelevant information about power outlets, labels, etc and plugs, and what you plug into may have yielded some information that may have been useful to you.. I think that most, myself included, began trying to think of a correlation between the power plug and the A/C.
Sometimes less information is better.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by B&T

Your right, there were no helpful answers to your question -- actually no answers at all.

No clearly stated question to answer... just a bunch of irrelevant information about plugs and power cords that were off in a completely different tangent than... Why isn't my air conditioner working.

[SAD]

Ok... Since Bill (the original poster) is getting snide about his lack of helpful answers.... I'll pick apart his post.

Originally Posted by Bi11dawg

Ok guys I screwed up so don't bash me too bad. It was an honest mistake.
Where I plug in my cord it says "this connection is for 208y/120-volt or 120/240-volt AC, 3 pole, 4 wire, 60hz, 50 ampere supply".

^^ You state that you've made a mistake... And you simply regurgitate what is printed on the back of your RV near your cord.

Originally Posted by Bi11dawg

Well I found out it is not for 240 volt..

^^ I'm not sure what you mean. WHAT is not for 240 volt?

You are correct that your RV is not to be plugged in to a straight 240 volt circuit. But unless you concoct a 3 prong adaptor cord and plug your 4 prong RV cord (120/240 - hot/hot/neutral/ground) into some 3 prong 240V outlet (hot/hot/ground).... You CANNOT plug your RV into a straight 240V outlet.

Originally Posted by Bi11dawg

Fried the converter which I replace with a Progressive Dynamics model....

So... So far we've gathered that you may have plugged your RV into the wrong type of outlet and you believe you've fried the converter...

Originally Posted by Bi11dawg

....Problem, the ac will cut on when thermostat is set below temp. Starts on low fan then after about 5 minute switches to high fan. Even when I set it only 1 degree below the current temp in trailer it continues to run. When I raise the temp say 10 degrees above the inside temp, it still runs. Any idea where to start....

Yet the symptom is your A/C is behaving in an unexpected way.... Almost as if the fan is set on "ON" as opposed to "Auto"....

Originally Posted by Bi11dawg

... and I have checked everything else and all seems to work properly.

So the 12v stuff works OK? Converter not fried? All other 120V appliances OK? You didn't plug it in wrong??

[Festus2]

Okay guys, this thread is definitely headed off in the wrong direction. We can either get back on track towards solving the problem which, if I understand it correctly, is that the OP cannot get the A/C working OR if it continues to be "He said. She said." I'll put on my black Moderator's hat and close it. How about calling a truce and getting back on track?
Thank you.

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by Bi11dawg

Ok guys I screwed up so don't bash me too bad. It was an honest mistake.
Where I plug in my cord it says "this connection is for 208y/120-volt or 120/240-volt AC, 3 pole, 4 wire, 60hz, 50 ampere supply". Well I found out it is not for 240 volt. Fried the converter which I replace with a Progressive Dynamics model. Problem, the ac will cut on when thermostat is set below temp. Starts on low fan then after about 5 minute switches to high fan. Even when I set it only 1 degree below the current temp in trailer it continues to run. When I raise the temp say 10 degrees above the inside temp, it still runs. Any idea where to start.

BTW it is a 2012 Cougar 327 RES with a single AC and I have checked everything else and all seems to work properly.

Bi11dawg, did the problems with the AC only start after you replaced the converter?
I'm interested in the solution here as this sounds like a strange problem that you're having.
Also what do you think about your new converter?

[SAD]

Originally Posted by Festus2

Okay guys, this thread is definitely headed off in the wrong direction. We can either get back on track towards solving the problem which, if I understand it correctly, is that the OP cannot get the A/C working OR if it continues to be "He said. She said." I'll put on my black Moderator's hat and close it. How about calling a truce and getting back on track?
Thank you.

My bad

Spring fever

[Bi11dawg]

Sorry guys, been busy.

OK now that we can act like adults again here goes.

I plugged my rv into a 4 prong 50amp outlet in my garage that I use for my compressor/welder. The label on the back of the rv next to the shore line connection states 120/240 volt connection, obviously I mis-understood the meaning of that, im not an electrician. I fried the factory installed 55amp converter. Replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics 60amp model because I had read the other brand, unsure exact name, was not known for longevity. All seems to work as designed, fridge, microwave, tv, outlets, lights, everything. No blown fuses, tripped breakers, or burnt wires anywhere. I tested the ac and it seemed to blow cold, if it was 65 degrees in the camper, according to the thermostat on the wall, and the ac was set to AUTO and 70degrees, the ac would continue to run, never seemed to cut off. On occasion it seemed like it was not blowing cold, almost like the compressor would cut off but fan continue to run on high. Even if I set the temp within one degree of the current temp it seemed to go from low fan to high fan and never go back or even off and all of this is while on AUTO, no ON.

Thank you Festus, and I apologize for getting "snide" but it was getting to be a "lets bash this guy" session. I turn to these forums because there is always a lot of good info in them and I appreciate your info.

[SAD]

Originally Posted by Bi11dawg

...I plugged my rv into a 4 prong 50amp outlet in my garage that I use for my compressor/welder. The label on the back of the rv next to the shore line connection states 120/240 volt connection, obviously I mis-understood the meaning of that, ...

This is the part I don't understand. A 4-prong outlet should be 120/240V connection.

Did your 50 amp cord plug right into it without any type of adaptor? Meaning, was the garage outlet the equivalent of a 50 amp range outlet?

If so.... (speculating here - would use voltmeter to verify)... I'm thinking there's nothing wrong with using that outlet... But that your converter dying was perhaps a coincidence....

Anyway... Glad it's working again.

[Bi11dawg]

Originally Posted by SAD

This is the part I don't understand. A 4-prong outlet should be 120/240V connection.

Did your 50 amp cord plug right into it without any type of adaptor? Meaning, was the garage outlet the equivalent of a 50 amp range outlet?

If so.... (speculating here - would use voltmeter to verify)... I'm thinking there's nothing wrong with using that outlet... But that your converter dying was perhaps a coincidence....

Anyway... Glad it's working again.

I purchased this 50 amp outlet and installed it so I could have the same connection for everything, welder, compressor, and I thought rv. I have not used welder but compressor works fine. When I plugged in the shore line cord, the AC came on and within a few minutes went off, then the breaker panel started smoking, I immediately went and cut off the 50amp breaker.Turned out it was the converter smoking. As far as the voltage im unsure, have not checked it with meter. When I tested the AC the other day I was using a generator which I have used previously and it ran the ac no problem. We went out this past weekend and camped but never used the ac, was too cool for it but as I said all else works. the only other thing that I have done since this happened was I washed the rv and got on top spraying and washing, but I cant imagine that caused an issue with the ac. Trying to get an appointment with camping world to get it looked at. I have the Good Sam extended service agreement.

Not going to lie, I May have mis soken, now that I think about it I was using an "extension cord" made up for the welder. Unless some how the wires in the extension cord outlet got crossed , which I have not checked. Correct me if Im wrong, If I have the identical 50amp outlet that matches my shoreline cord, then it is no problem??

[Bi11dawg]

sorry I know im confusing you guys, starting to confuse myself. Ill double ck my connections and get back