Swapping king pins on 2022 - Page 2

Jmckaycr · 03-17-2022, 04:53 AM

Pic is with an iPhone only. The road does curve a bit. After reading a few of the comments. The perfectionist in me will hook it back up today and lay a level in the camper to see how it sits. By the eye it looked pretty good. The box goes in 2” increments. I’m not sure I’d want to go down to 6. When the recommended is 7. Then we are only talking an inch. If that keeps me from damaging my bed rail I may error on the side of caution. I’ve towed an absurd amount of trailers through work but never a fifth wheel. Thanks

**JRTJH** · 03-17-2022, 05:24 AM

The easy way to check for level is to take the trailer to a concrete parking lot and measure from the J-wrap molding to the ground in all 4 corners of the trailer. This won't usually work well on dirt or gravel because the ground may not be level, but on a concrete pad, even if the pad was poured to slope, the entire trailer slopes with the pad and the measurement is accurate.

Using a level is dependent on not having any "spring" or cantilever in the trailer chassis. Think about the "arch" in an empty 18 wheeler flatbed trailer... In "theory" a level on the trailer should be accurate, but in practice, because of the frame rail arch, it may induce error.

rhagfo · 03-17-2022, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmckaycr

Pic is with an iPhone only. The road does curve a bit. After reading a few of the comments. The perfectionist in me will hook it back up today and lay a level in the camper to see how it sits. By the eye it looked pretty good. The box goes in 2” increments. I’m not sure I’d want to go down to 6. When the recommended is 7. Then we are only talking an inch. If that keeps me from damaging my bed rail I may error on the side of caution. I’ve towed an absurd amount of trailers through work but never a fifth wheel. Thanks

Well a goosebox may allow more tilt, but I base need on my own experience. We host at a site that when exiting the turn is about 110 to 120 degrees and uphill, I come close but don’t make contact with the bed, while making that turn. I have a tick less than 6” to the bed rails.

Jmckaycr · 03-17-2022, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Well a goosebox may allow more tilt, but I base need on my own experience. We host at a site that when exiting the turn is about 110 to 120 degrees and uphill, I come close but don’t make contact with the bed, while making that turn. I have a tick less than 6” to the bed rails.

Million dollar question. Would you keep it or try and lower it?

rhagfo · 03-17-2022, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmckaycr

Million dollar question. Would you keep it or try and lower it?

If close to level, likely would leave as is, seeing how the recommended is 7”.

Jmckaycr · 03-17-2022, 06:32 AM

25” in the back 28” in the front off the ground.

Jmckaycr · 03-17-2022, 06:52 AM

Looks like 8” on one side and a smidge over 8 on the other side. If I go down then 6” clearance. Then my rear would be a an inch higher than the front.

dutchmensport · 03-17-2022, 07:25 AM

Edit. Delete.

I should have read the entire thread first. I have nothing new to contribute. My ideas have already been mentioned. And the OP solved his problem.

Good job and getting it removed.

madweazl · 04-06-2022, 04:49 PM

I'll be doing the same in a week or two (waiting on an awning to get fixed) so I appreciate the update. As for the level of the trailer, there are different height balls that can offset in smaller increments. I currently have the B&W which is 2" and I'm hoping I dont have to swap it because I like the design better than some of the others.

madweazl · 04-20-2022, 06:57 AM

Finished our install on Thursday and we're about 2-3" nose high with the B&W ball which sucks because I really like it. Think I'm going to try the Reese Elite ball because it's considerably lower and I'm gonna try to go with an 85 series tire vs the stock 80 series. By my gonkulations, that should get me just about perfect.

As for the conversion itself, there weren't issues with the pinbox coming right off but we did have a bolt/nut seize. Thankfully it had backed off enough that we could get a sawzall in there to cut it off. The rest of them came right out.

The towing experience was fantastic! Absolutely love how it feels and it makes no noise, clunks, chucks, etc..

RVGator · 04-20-2022, 08:20 AM

That’s a great looking rig and truck by the way. You will love the Goosebox.

Did you fill the airbag up in the Goosebox before measuring? It will make a difference.

notanlines · 04-20-2022, 03:01 PM

Madweazl, your statement "I'm gonna try to go with an 85 series tire vs the stock 80 series" will be almost without merit. In actuality will, in effect, yield about 1/4" in height difference. Keep in mind that the diameter is 1" difference yielding 1/2" radius increase. With tire 'squish' net gain will equal about 1/4". I cannot help but believe you are being a little too anal in your leveling intentions.
I chose the highly technical term "squish" in describing the bottom of a tire under load. Maybe Tireman9 or Cal can give us the correct terminology.

madweazl · 04-20-2022, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

Madweazl, your statement "I'm gonna try to go with an 85 series tire vs the stock 80 series" will be almost without merit. In actuality will, in effect, yield about 1/4" in height difference. Keep in mind that the diameter is 1" difference yielding 1/2" radius increase. With tire 'squish' net gain will equal about 1/4". I cannot help but believe you are being a little too anal in your leveling intentions.
I chose the highly technical term "squish" in describing the bottom of a tire under load. Maybe Tireman9 or Cal can give us the correct terminology.

Assuming that "squish" is equal for both tires, it will still be a .4-.5" difference. No reason not to do it in that regard.

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