Magnetic Panel for Kitchen - Install Advice

[FL2CO]

Hi everyone - I'm new to the forum and we're working to get our new to us 2019 Passport 199ML set up to our liking. I'm a bit nervous to start driving screws into interior walls and was hoping to get some best practices for installing/adhering things to the kitchen backsplash and shared panel to the refrigerator. Ideally, I would like to add metal panels to both of these locations. Partially for easy cleanup (grease, splashes, etc.) and partially to have a surface that I can attach to with magnets (knife storage, spices). We live in Colorado, so temperature swings are the norm here so it would have to handle below freezing and peak summer heat.

I'm not sure how well command hooks will adhere to the vinyl and I am a bit concerned about using silicone because it can be a hassle to remove down the line. Any advice is appreciated!

Thank you!

[Martian]

First, let me welcome you to the forum.
Something we have used was Command version of velcro and put lexan panels up behind and to the side of the stove. We had Command strips in our last camper and after five years in the South every one came off like it was never there.
I would bet that everything on that metal panel would be at the bottom when you get to camp. Better off using the range hood for decorative magnets and mount a magnetic strip for knives on the inside of a cabinet door.

[LHaven]

I've been experimenting recently with nano double-sided tape [LINK]. It's clear, and the ads say you can even wash and reuse it (haven't needed to try that yet). It has a "gummybear" consistency that tends to hold much better on irregular surfaces than Command or double-sided foam tape. It's also not at all hard to remove, and leaves no residue.

We used it to stick some "towel jams" onto the pebble-finished outside of our glass shower stall, and they have been rock solid, on the road and off -- a challenge that our best foam tape couldn't meet. (The automotive grade might have, but we tried nano first.) The stuff is not that expensive and if it doesn't work satisfactorily in your application, it can be removed as if it were never there.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by LHaven

I've been experimenting recently with nano double-sided tape [LINK]. It's clear, and the ads say you can even wash and reuse it (haven't needed to try that yet). It has a "gummybear" consistency that tends to hold much better on irregular surfaces than Command or double-sided foam tape. It's also not at all hard to remove, and leaves no residue.

We used it to stick some "towel jams" onto the pebble-finished outside of our glass shower stall, and they have been rock solid, on the road and off -- a challenge that our best foam tape couldn't meet. (The automotive grade might have, but we tried nano first.) The stuff is not that expensive and if it doesn't work satisfactorily in your application, it can be removed as if it were never there.

I have not had a ton of luck with command strips on the wall paper (whatever it is) in my trailer. The finish doesn't seem to hold. Is this nano tape going to damage a wall paper finish? How does it come unstuck?

[hlh1]

I've had good luck with "command hooks" with double sided tape when I pre-clean and prep the site with alcohol.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I have not had a ton of luck with command strips on the wall paper (whatever it is) in my trailer. The finish doesn't seem to hold. Is this nano tape going to damage a wall paper finish? How does it come unstuck?

Using adhesives on paper surfaces is always a crapshoot. I expect nano tape would work much better than command strips in that situation, but I don't know whether it would damage the surface if you try to remove it. Indeed, it probably depends entirely on the particular surface that you have. The nano tape stretches in the same manner that a command strip does, and that's one way you can remove it. Another way is to just a peel it off from a corner, especially if you're adhering two hard surfaces.

As someone else just said, alcohol prep should be a standard step before you use any adhesive on anything. It gets rid of grease and finger oils.

[Martian]

The key to Command strips is to clean the area with alcohol, let it dry and then stick the strip on. Give it 24 hours before you do anything with it. This system has worked for me for many ears.

[FL2CO]

[QUOTE=Martian;551342 Better off using the range hood for decorative magnets and mount a magnetic strip for knives on the inside of a cabinet door.[/QUOTE]

Thank you - Makes sense. We've got limited cabinets that that certainly sounds safer. Knives + Adhesives =

I appreciate all the responses. I will definitely try the Nano Tape on some things that are less risky. The temps here generally have a 50 degree swing so whatever it is has to be durable.

[LHaven]

I'll be honest, I don't use adhesive velcro here in Arizona because it just melts off the wall (or wherever) during the summers. I applied the nano tape just after the hottest part of the summer, so it won't get its real acid test until next year.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by Martian

The key to Command strips is to clean the area with alcohol, let it dry and then stick the strip on. Give it 24 hours before you do anything with it. This system has worked for me for many ears.

I agree with this, all of the command hooks we installed, in 2015, when we bought the trailer are still there and I followed this install method.

There is usually towels hanging on the hooks in the bath, even during travel and the hook between the slide and the bedroom has light jackets and hats on it.

It has been pretty hot here in Texas, maybe not Arizona hot, but hot enough.

YMMV

-Brian

[RJS3791RD]

I used double sided tape (3M brand). They have different products based upon weight rating. I have used it for attaching a light carpet to the steps (indoors) so the dogs to slide around. I have also used on small shelves in some of the compartments. The surfaces I have used it on have not been harmed if I peeled off the tape. YMMV

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by B-O-B'03

I agree with this, all of the command hooks we installed, in 2015, when we bought the trailer are still there and I followed this install method.

There is usually towels hanging on the hooks in the bath, even during travel and the hook between the slide and the bedroom has light jackets and hats on it.

It has been pretty hot here in Texas, maybe not Arizona hot, but hot enough.

YMMV

-Brian

Arizona heat doesn't seem to bother Command strips, and I give them 100% for coming off without damaging a finish. I have a couple Command strips inside the shower, on the smooth finish wall, to hold stuff like the back brush and the nylon scrubbie ball, and they work a treat. But my problem in this particular case was that they don't stay mounted on the pebbled glass finish outside the shower.

As an aside, I am always seriously impressed by 3M products and their company's "1950s America" exceptionalism. They always work the way they're supposed to, and they always seem to cover every application niche where someone might want to use one of their innovations. I wrote them once suggesting they offer a shelf liner with Post-It adhesive on the bottom, and they replied with the name of the very product I was looking for.

[FL2CO]

The nano tape guidelines specifically say to not use on wallpaper, so that one may not work for this application but I can see it working on the smooth surfaces for sure.

I'll start with the command products and see how they hold up with just the panel and some less dangerous things hanging. If this was backing up to a cabinet it wouldn't bother me but my 2 options are the exterior wall and the panel that backs up to the fridge. I don't really want to screw anything into either panel without some sort of structural piece behind it.

This brings up another question - is there a way to determine if there are structural members that I can attach to?

[dutchmensport]

If you are simply wanting to attach a panel over the existing backsplash without using nails or screws, then Scotch-Mount Extreme Double-Sided Mounting Tape will most definately do the trick for you. I used this stuff to remount my outside LED strip lights on the front cap of my Montana High Country Fifth Wheel and its held up marvelously. It's subject to wind, rain, heat and cold, and intense sunshine. It's holding up very, very well. You can get it at Lowe's or, pretty much, any hardware store.

Click here

Because my LED light strip is so narrow, I ended up getting the 1 inch wide tape and cut it length wise into 1/3rd strips, which make the right width. I also only had to use 1/3rd of the length of tape that way, as it resulted in 3 strips. I still have 25 feet of the stuff left over!

I guarantee you, whatever you hang with this stuff will not come off.

Before using it, use rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth or paper towel where the tape will be stuck first. Let it dry completely, then apply.

Note! This stuff is 100% un-forgiving. You have only 1 chance to get your item "stuck". If you make it crooked, you don't get a re-do. The stuff can removed pretty easily if you spray it with WD-40, let it set a few minutes, then pull it off and wipe the residue with more WD-40. Then wash the WD 40 with Dawn Dishwashing liquid to remove that, then use rubbing alcohol again to remove than, and then you can apply more tape. The important thing is, with the WD-40, it does remove clean and leave no damage to the surface under it.

Anyway, that's my suggestion.

Edit: and oh.... this tape works just fine on textured surfaces also if you get the thick version.

[dutchmensport]

Originally Posted by FL2CO

... is there a way to determine if there are structural members that I can attach to?

You can find the studs by using a stud finder. Again, go to a Home Repair store, like Lowe's or Home Depot and pick one up if you don't have one. They can be purchased relatively cheap to horribly expensive.

You can also simply press on the walls, and where is is no give in the wall, it's a good indication there is a stud there. (but not always).

You can also wait for a really humid morning when condensation has formed on the outside of your camper. If the air conditioner inside has been running all night and the outside temperature is warmer, and the morning is very humid, you'll be able to see the studs on the outside of your camper. This is a little phenomenon that disturbs a lot of people who see this the first time, but there's nothing wrong with the camper when this happens. Take photos when it does happen and then you'll know where those studs are. Measure the distances from the windows, edges, and doors when they appear and keep that as a record. You can do the same measurements inside the camper and be spot on where the studs are inside the camper that way.

[FL2CO]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

You can find the studs by using a stud finder. Again, go to a Home Repair store, like Lowe's or Home Depot and pick one up if you don't have one. They can be purchased relatively cheap to horribly expensive.

You can also simply press on the walls, and where is is no give in the wall, it's a good indication there is a stud there. (but not always).

You can also wait for a really humid morning when condensation has formed on the outside of your camper. If the air conditioner inside has been running all night and the outside temperature is warmer, and the morning is very humid, you'll be able to see the studs on the outside of your camper. This is a little phenomenon that disturbs a lot of people who see this the first time, but there's nothing wrong with the camper when this happens. Take photos when it does happen and then you'll know where those studs are. Measure the distances from the windows, edges, and doors when they appear and keep that as a record. You can do the same measurements inside the camper and be spot on where the studs are inside the camper that way.

Thank you - that's pretty wild.

[JRTJH]

From your photo is post #13, you show the sidewall next to/behind the refrigerator. You can access that sidewall through the lower refrigerator vent opening. All you need to do to put a reinforcing backer strip behind the sidewall is put a 1/2" plywood strip about 18" long and 3" wide along that wall, hold it in place while you have someone inside the trailer install the "knife rack" with screws going through the knife rack, the sidewall and into the backer plywood strip. If you want, you can install some wood glue to the backer strip before placing it in position. Then, when you remove the knife rack, the backer strip won't "fall to the floor behind the refrigerator.....

You may need to use a shorter backer strip if there is a stud or solid foam insulation between the refrigerator and the sidewall, but usually that space is "wide open and easy to slip a backer strip into place.

ADDED: Remember that you want to use appropriate length screws when installing anything either in the trailer sidewall or the refrigerator sidewall. You DO NOT want to risk putting a 3" screw in the 2" thick trailer sidewall, you'll have a "porcupine affect" on the exterior of the trailer... It's the same with putting screws through the refrigerator space sidewall. You risk piercing the refrigerator box sidewall if you use screws that are too long. The luan panel is 1/8" thick, the plywood backer is 1/2" thick, so using 3/4" screws would "very slightly pierce the back of the backer plate". Depending on the depth of the knife rack, appropriate length screws would "come close to the back of the backer plate, but not pierce it. Some "math and measuring" is key to protecting where the "pointy end of the screw winds up".....

[FL2CO]

I think that option makes the most sense for me as far as integrity if the adhesive/stip options don't work out. I will open up that space and see what type of clearance I get for slipping in backer, I like the idea of a back/sidesplash for cooking and fastening to. Grease splatter and vapors are something that drive me crazy, especially in a small space.

Thank you!

[Brown cat]

Originally Posted by FL2CO

Thank you - Makes sense. We've got limited cabinets that that certainly sounds safer. Knives + Adhesives =

I appreciate all the responses. I will definitely try the Nano Tape on some things that are less risky. The temps here generally have a 50 degree swing so whatever it is has to be durable.

We are in central Texas, we have very hot summers, winter mostly mild, but do have some below 20's days .



We have had little luck with any of the tapes, Nano, Command, 3M industrial, etc. holding up. I always clean the surface area where I intend to mount it with alcohol. I do not think they make anything that is removable without damage to the vinyl wall surfaces that will hold up.
We do not let the inside of our fifth wheel get above 90F. or below 35F. Damage through out can occur under extreme temperatures.

You might use a sheet of peg board, you can paint, decorate with stickers or stencil some designs on it. Mount it using some molding and tiny finishing nails. If you decide to remove it the finishing nails are easy to fill in with a bit of putty then paint or mix color into putty before filling.