Hitch slop

[Brantlyj]

There seems to be a lot of slop in my receiver. The shank has a decent wear mark on it. Anything I should be concerned about? I’m not sure the sleeve is replaceable.

I tried to attach a gif. Not sure if it worked or not...

[Javi]

Are you using a 2-1/2" or a 2" shank... Are you using the adapter?

[Retired Copper]

Looks like an adapter. I tried that didn`t like the play so I ordered the 2 1/2 shanked and it fixed it.

[gearhead]

Pick one:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hitch+tig...b_sb_ss_i_3_15

[sourdough]

^^^^^^I used one of the anti rattle/hitch tighteners on my last truck for a few years vs buying a new 2 1/2" shank. It works if you torque it down enough. I still use it to tighten the shank I made for my mud flaps when towing the 5th wheel.

There can be a lot of play in those adapters. With the bumper pull on it wasn't too bad but noisy/clanky. If I had it to do all over again I would have just bought the 2 1/2" shank when I bought the longer one for the 3/4....but didn't.

[Brantlyj]

So taking a closer look at home and the receiver is a 2”. Not sure what is up with the outside ring... see picture. I was hoping I could have knocked out the sleeve and my e gotten a new one but didn’t seem the case. Not sure why an F-250 would be straight 2” and not 2.5 with a sleeve.
In any case looks like I’m ordering one of those rattle reducers. I can’t hear it back there but I’m sure all that slop isn’t good for it.

[sourdough]

That looks like a 2 1/2 with a sleeve. I will say that if the sleeve has been in there and not removed since you bought the truck it will seem like it won't come out. See if you have access to the back of the receiver tube and can take a large punch and tap it out.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by sourdough

That looks like a 2 1/2 with a sleeve. I will say that if the sleeve has been in there and not removed since you bought the truck it will seem like it won't come out. See if you have access to the back of the receiver tube and can take a large punch and tap it out.

Nope. Most defiantly 2”. From the side. It’s got that trim piece for additional support on the end I suppose.
I had a friend that worked at a Ford dealership for awhile and I had him print off the build sheet. Just checked and it’s a Class 3 hitch which is 2”.

[sourdough]

I used to buy Ford trucks exclusively but haven't in a long time. Maybe that is a Class III on a 250 but I just can't imagine why they would do that. Mine was a Class IV and this one is a Class V if I recall. If there is no "sleeve" I guess the clamp would be the answer vs replacing the entire receiver.

[JRTJH]

Brant,

If your profile data is correct, you're towing with a 2016 F250 CC 4x4 short bed truck with a 6.2l gas engine and 3.73 ration axles ???

If that's true, then the "brochure ratings" are GVW 10K, 19200, MAX TLR 12200, and MAX PAYLOAD of 3200 (subject to optional equipment reductions).

Here's the technical specifications from Reese defining a CLASS III hitch:

Class III - Larger trailers and accessories
Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 600 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW).
Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 1000 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW)
Class III hitches are weight carrying (WC) and also are weight distributing (WD) depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
Not all Class III hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
A Class III hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
A higher class ball mount does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
Class III hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

So, the maximum trailer weight rating for your truck is 12,200 and the max trailer weight rating for the hitch is 10,000...

That doesn't add up !!!!! If you bought the truck new AND if the receiver is the OEM receiver, then if your buddy's statement that it's a class III hitch, makes it the wrong receiver for your truck ratings.

Now, if you bought it used, then who knows what the previous owner may have done.

My 2013 F250 supercab 6.2L 4x4 long bed had a CLASS V hitch, it was a 2.5" tube with a sleeve to work with 2" hitches....

It's possible that the deformity and rattling you're seeing is because that's the wrong receiver for your truck and you're "overloading" it causing the steel to bend and "wallow out" which made the sloppy fit and the rattling.....

If you bought the truck new, I'd get a copy of the build sheet from the Ford computer (any parts man can take your VIN and give you a list of what your truck was equipped with as OEM.

You should have, as OEM equipment a Class IV or a Class V receiver.

Here's the Reese website with the hitch Class specs: https://www.reese-hitches.com/learni...towing-classes

ADDED: There was another member a couple of years ago that had a bent receiver. I can't remember if it was from towing a heavier trailer with a light duty receiver or if it was a defective receiver, but his tube split just under that reinforcement ring on the end of the tube.

I would do some serious checking to make sure you're not overloading that receiver before doing any "bumpy road travel"....

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Brant,

If your profile data is correct, you're towing with a 2016 F250 CC 4x4 short bed truck with a 6.2l gas engine and 3.73 ration axles ???

If that's true, then the "brochure ratings" are GVW 10K, 19200, MAX TLR 12200, and MAX PAYLOAD of 3200 (subject to optional equipment reductions).

Here's the technical specifications from Reese defining a CLASS III hitch:

Class III - Larger trailers and accessories
Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 600 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW).
Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 1000 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW)
Class III hitches are weight carrying (WC) and also are weight distributing (WD) depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
Not all Class III hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
A Class III hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
A higher class ball mount does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
Class III hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

So, the maximum trailer weight rating for your truck is 12,200 and the max trailer weight rating for the hitch is 10,000...

That doesn't add up !!!!! If you bought the truck new AND if the receiver is the OEM receiver, then if your buddy's statement that it's a class III hitch, makes it the wrong receiver for your truck ratings.

Now, if you bought it used, then who knows what the previous owner may have done.

My 2013 F250 supercab 6.2L 4x4 long bed had a CLASS V hitch, it was a 2.5" tube with a sleeve to work with 2" hitches....

It's possible that the deformity and rattling you're seeing is because that's the wrong receiver for your truck and you're "overloading" it causing the steel to bend and "wallow out" which made the sloppy fit and the rattling.....

If you bought the truck new, I'd get a copy of the build sheet from the Ford computer (any parts man can take your VIN and give you a list of what your truck was equipped with as OEM.

You should have, as OEM equipment a Class IV or a Class V receiver.

Here's the Reese website with the hitch Class specs: https://www.reese-hitches.com/learni...towing-classes

ADDED: There was another member a couple of years ago that had a bent receiver. I can't remember if it was from towing a heavier trailer with a light duty receiver or if it was a defective receiver, but his tube split just under that reinforcement ring on the end of the tube.

I would do some serious checking to make sure you're not overloading that receiver before doing any "bumpy road travel"....

I actually read that link earlier today which makes this all more confusing.

The build data is attached but there is a rating sticker that shows it’s good for 12.5k. The only thing I can think of is this was a fleet truck. They are usually shipped to an up fitter and modified so maybe the hitch was changed after it left the plant. Still a class 3 seems low for a 3/4 ton from the plant either way.

As you can see there is a significant gap. Much, much more up and down than side to side. I might have to go visit a hitch place to see what’s up. It’s most defiantly 2” with no sleeve.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Brant,

If your profile data is correct, you're towing with a 2016 F250 CC 4x4 short bed truck with a 6.2l gas engine and 3.73 ration axles ???

If that's true, then the "brochure ratings" are GVW 10K, 19200, MAX TLR 12200, and MAX PAYLOAD of 3200 (subject to optional equipment reductions).

Here's the technical specifications from Reese defining a CLASS III hitch:

Class III - Larger trailers and accessories
Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 600 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW).
Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 1000 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW)
Class III hitches are weight carrying (WC) and also are weight distributing (WD) depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
Not all Class III hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
A Class III hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
A higher class ball mount does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
Class III hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

So, the maximum trailer weight rating for your truck is 12,200 and the max trailer weight rating for the hitch is 10,000...

That doesn't add up !!!!! If you bought the truck new AND if the receiver is the OEM receiver, then if your buddy's statement that it's a class III hitch, makes it the wrong receiver for your truck ratings.

Now, if you bought it used, then who knows what the previous owner may have done.

My 2013 F250 supercab 6.2L 4x4 long bed had a CLASS V hitch, it was a 2.5" tube with a sleeve to work with 2" hitches....

It's possible that the deformity and rattling you're seeing is because that's the wrong receiver for your truck and you're "overloading" it causing the steel to bend and "wallow out" which made the sloppy fit and the rattling.....

If you bought the truck new, I'd get a copy of the build sheet from the Ford computer (any parts man can take your VIN and give you a list of what your truck was equipped with as OEM.

You should have, as OEM equipment a Class IV or a Class V receiver.

Here's the Reese website with the hitch Class specs: https://www.reese-hitches.com/learni...towing-classes

ADDED: There was another member a couple of years ago that had a bent receiver. I can't remember if it was from towing a heavier trailer with a light duty receiver or if it was a defective receiver, but his tube split just under that reinforcement ring on the end of the tube.

I would do some serious checking to make sure you're not overloading that receiver before doing any "bumpy road travel"....

Would you mind taking a picture of your receiver? Is greatly appreciate the chance to compare.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

I actually read that link earlier today which makes this all more confusing.

The build data is attached but there is a rating sticker that shows it’s good for 12.5k. The only thing I can think of is this was a fleet truck. They are usually shipped to an up fitter and modified so maybe the hitch was changed after it left the plant. Still a class 3 seems low for a 3/4 ton from the plant either way.

As you can see there is a significant gap. Much, much more up and down than side to side. I might have to go visit a hitch place to see what’s up. It’s most defiantly 2” with no sleeve.

If it is 2" with NO sleeve, what in the world is it WITH the sleeve? 1 /1/4"? On a 3/4 truck? Something ain't right seems to me.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by sourdough

If it is 2" with NO sleeve, what in the world is it WITH the sleeve? 1 /1/4"? On a 3/4 truck? Something ain't right seems to me.

Idk, no sleeve in the glove box. That is most defiantly a collar of sorts welded to the end of the receiver.

luckily my trailer if 9800 gross so even if max was somehow 10k I’m still under. I just don’t like that slop. I have not miked it but it’s at least an 1/16”. Maybe closer to 1/8”

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by sourdough

That looks like a 2 1/2 with a sleeve. I will say that if the sleeve has been in there and not removed since you bought the truck it will seem like it won't come out. See if you have access to the back of the receiver tube and can take a large punch and tap it out.

Danny, don't know why you insist it is a 2.5" with sleeve, it is a 2" with a reinforcement collar.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Danny, don't know why you insist it is a 2.5" with sleeve, it is a 2" with a reinforcement collar.

I don’t think the first couple photos shows the collar as clearly as the last few. It’s not a big deal...

[flybouy]

That's the same hitch that's on my 2010 F250 straight from Ford. There are basically 2 methods to deal with the excess movement. 1) is to get a hitch silencer clamp, I went that route and it works OK, just a PIA to unclamp it every time you take the hitch out.
2) is to have the side and top or bottom welded with a few pases. Then take an angle grinder and smooth it out to fit more snugly.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Danny, don't know why you insist it is a 2.5" with sleeve, it is a 2" with a reinforcement collar.

You're right. I'm used to looking at a Ram and had tunnel vision I guess. They have a reinforcement "collar" around the end of the receiver but it's actually a part of it without gaps. The only gaps there are around the sleeve.

[JRTJH]

Brant,

First, thanks for asking for pictures... Somehow I missed my annual "corrosion control" on the hitch... Now you know what I'll be doing this afternoon....

Here's a few photos of the OEM hitch on my 2015 F250 diesel truck. It's my understanding that all SuperDuty models (gas or diesel) are equipped with the same receiver, but that likely isn't true with "fleet orders". Your equipment list confirms your hitch is not "the standard OEM consumer part"...

As you can see in these photos, my hitch has "3 layers". The outer is the same "reinforcement ring" as yours, the next in is the 2.5" tube and the inner is the 2" sleeve adapter.

Ratings on my receiver with the 2" sleeve in place and a 2" shank are:
Weight carrying: 6000/600
Weight distributing: 12500/1250

With the sleeve removed and a 2.5" shank, ratings are:
Weight carrying: 8500/850
Weight distributing: 19000/1900

Your receiver is "way lighter" than the OEM for SuperDuty trucks built for consumer sale, and with your trailer GVW, it looks like you're "right there at maximum capacity" which might explain why you are seeing the steel deformity. It's at the maximum limits.

[cavediver]

A lot of this could be solved with a tape measure.