Slide cables

[Meat]

Hello all,
We have a 2022 Keystone Outback travel trailer. While putting the slide out on the entry door side, I heard a loud pop. After further inspection I found that one of the top cables snapped. Looking at the other 2 slide it appears that the top cable has snapped on those slides as well. Not sure when those would have happened.
My question is has anyone else had a problem with cables breaking on slide?
Called a mobile repair company and he suspected that those cable may have had to much tension.
Any other ideas or thoughts?
Thanks

[Canonman]

The AccuSlide system is notorious for cable problems. Too loose, too tight, Misaligned. One you tube rv mechanic calls it the worst slide system out there.
I have the accuslide systems on both of our slide outs and can say they bear constant monitoring.
You are doing the right thing by having a pro come out and replace and adjust the system cables.
While he's at it, have him show you the proper tension and alignment adjustment.
You can do the PM yourself but having someone show you exactly how is worth the time.

[Meat]

Great advice! Thank you

[sourdough]

Depending on what source you read or hear cable slides, rams, Schwintek....all are the worst. I've talked to dealers/salesmen and none like Schwintek. The rest are mixed; who had what and what gave them trouble = worst system ever.

I've owned cable slides, that I paid attention to, for the last 10 years with high use. Never had one issue - none (now I may have just jinxed myself). You do have to pay attention to them just as you should be doing with any other slide system. Keep them "in tune" as you have to do with any slide system and they are reliable. I will say that if you buy a new trailer (or new to you trailer) one of the first things you have to do is check those cables, alignment, brackets etc. When an owner arms themselves with the details of operation, maintenance and inspection I've just not had any problems with them....but I DO carry two cable replacement kits "because".

[Meat]

Good feedback. I will have to learn how to adjust these cables. Sounds like the key to fewer headaches.

[chuckster57]

Lots of videos on YouTube.

For the record, I don’t care for the Accuslide, and actually like the Schwintec. I think the through frame is the best, but to each their own.

[dutchmensport]

For what it's worth, on my Montana High Country, purchased brand spankin' new, It's had 10 cables replaced on 4 different slide-outs. Yep, 10! The first one was fixed under warranty. The next I paid my dealership to do it (it was a costly bill). After that, I figured out how to do it myself. Since, I've replaced 8 more myself. It's never an "easy" task, but it's not an "impossible" task either. The concept to replace them is simple enough. The problem is working in extremely tight and confined areas. That's what makes replacing them a challenge.

Just a bit of advise..... you will need to remove the header above the slide in order to access the motor and pully's. The header is almost always just stapled on. Use a pry bar and carefully remove the header board. You will find it has a zillion staples in it. Take the time and pull the staples out of the header board. Pull them from the back.... straight through, with a pair of plyers. Pulling from the front will scar the finish and leave unsightly holes. Pulling from the back will keep the front clean looking.

When you have it off, figure out an alternative way to re-attach the board without using a zillion more staples or finishing nails. I devised a hook method so the header board simply hooks over the top of the slide and simply hangs there. Now, I can simply lift it off. No more screws or nails or staples.

Second tip. Jump right in and watch a bunch of youtube videos how to replace cables and understand how they work. You will save a lot of money doing them yourself.

Third tip: Order new cables from Amazon. This is probably the cheapest place to get them: Click here.

Fourth Tip: Get the Accuslide cables and not a knock off. Why? Because the knock-off use an inferior metal that stretches over time. Eventually, there is no more adjustment left on the cable itself because you've reached the end of the threaded bolt. I figured out how to tie the cable in a knot in the right spot so that shortens the cable so I don't have to remove it with a new replacement. It took me a few cables to figure out the cheaper ones ... ARE cheaper!

Fifth Tip: When you order the cable, order a couple extra and keep them on hand. They take up no space in storage, and it's a good feeling knowing you have an immediate replacement immediatly.

Fifth Tip: You will need to get the crimper and the cable cutter in addition to the cables also. Here's a link to the cable cutters....Unless you have a pair of cable cutters already, these are what you need. Bolt cutters won't do it right. You need a very, very, very clean cut with absolutely no frays. If you have frays, you'll never, ever, ever be able to fee the cables around the pully's. Cutters, click here.

You will also need the crimpers. This is truly a specialty tool and you won't be able to crimp the "crimp" unless you have these. They are a must: Crimper, click here.

Last, each slide used 8 cables. 4 cables for pulling the slide "in" and 4 cables for pulling the slide "out". There are 2 cables on the top (inside and out) and 2 cables at the bottom (inside and out). The cable replacement kit comes with cable long enough to fit any cable situation (top, bottom, right or left, inside our outside). So, don't worry about the length. You will end up cutting off the waste regardless. And no.... there is no need to keep the waste. I've never found a use for them in over 5 years now. Just discard them when done.

Sixth tip: After you replace the cable, you will need to adjust the tension again after opening and closing them a few times.

Seventh tip: Re-check the tension often ... like.... every time you get ready to retract the slides. Just simple wiggle them up and down when you walk around your camper and also look for sagging. Too much sagging is not good. To tight is not good either. After time, You'll know what to look for. Just be prepared to constantly adjust time. This is one item you can never .... plug n play and forget!

Good luck!

[CedarCreekWoody]

Great advice above. Buy the tools and a couple of spare cables to carry with you.

[Meat]

Great info! Thanks

[jxnbbl]

+1 on Dutchmensports post. - I have not gone through as many as him but 1 carry my swagging tools and parts to do temp fixes/fixes and even make my own cable if necessary. Anyways on the valance removal, I devised a system where mine are now screwed in with 'furniture caps' covering the screws and it works great.



Regardless of the method if you leave your trailer for service put a piece of tape noting this modification so they don't try and pry them off!

[Richeyb]

This is my most dreaded part of being a HC owner with 4 slideouts. I purchased extra cable and all the right equipment in case of emergency, but to date no issues. Knock on wood!! Good post to keep in your file.

[Mikelff]

I like the hanging attachment but they never vibrate or bounce off??
I had my header fall down on a trip because the staples didn’t secure it enough. I used carpenters glue and glued some broken parts back together and only option at the time was to use a finishing nail gun. The rv is in the shop for a few repairs and one of them is to adjust the slides. Don’t know how they will get that header down without breaking it but we’ll see. I’ll have to keep your hanging concept in mind for next time. Thanks for the pictures.

[dutchmensport]

Originally Posted by Mikelff

I like the hanging attachment but they never vibrate or bounce off??
....

I think the only way for that header to bounce off would be if the trailer actually flipped and landed on it's roof. Then, it might fall off.

The first success to this strategy is the weight of the header itself. It's actually pretty heavy.

Second, the hanger is a modified "French Cleat" method of hanging mirrors, cabinets on the wall, and any number of items. (French Cleat, click here)

Third, the French Cleat hangs down far enough it secures well to the bottom part of the header. Here was my challenge: If the cleat was too wide, the header could not raised high enough to clear to seat it. If it was too narrow, there wasn't enough "catch" to actually catch the bottom half. As it turned out, I finally hit the right height. The upper half of the cleat is just wide enough the top of the header..... just barely clears the ceiling.

Fourth, the cleat extends the entire length of the header. It "just fits" the width. If it was 1/8 of an inch longer, it would not fit. So, left and right, it's pretty snug.

Yep, it took a couple days to make this work, it it took a couple (or 3) sacraficial 2/4's to do it too. The thickness of the bottom frame of the slide was thicker than a normal 1 inch thick standard size board. I had to rip it down to size. Then the "catch" has to be just right, not too deep, not too shallow. So yea, it cost me a few pieces of lumber, but the end was worth it.

It's never jumped off. I don't think it can.