Air or antifreeze to winterize?

[Mikelff]

Good info from everyone. I’m in Texas so I just use antifreeze. No compressor to blow out lines. Was wondering if a good tire pump compressor would work for that???

[JohnnyP]

I took a short hose and hooked up to city connections. Set air pressure at 28lbs and then blew air into hose. Friend went and opened each water valve until all air. Opened low drain points removed water then turned on pump. A little water then ran out as well. Put air to black tank clean out. Dumped anti freeze in all p-traps. Did outside kitchen as well.

[Batsman53]

My Dad has been RVing since 1961 and his only used air to blow out lines and gallon on antifreeze to pour in P-Traps and a little in gray and black tanks. The only time he had a problem was the ice maker on a big motor home and he's owned travel trailers, fifth wheels, Class C's and A's and a couple of 45 foot motor homes. He said the key was to use a checklist, plenty of air (continuous air flow not pressure), start from the farthest faucet to bleed. I've seen him run a compressor for an hour. I've adopted the same steps and never had a problem. I tried using just antifreeze one time and what a mess and took forever to get the taste out. But also we live in Tennessee and north Alabama.

[2Wheels]

Originally Posted by JohnnyP

What is best? I cannot even get to water pump without removing the stove or possibly the outside kitchen. 2010 cougar 26bhs. Am I missing an easy access to pump or should I just use air. 1st timer asking for help.

I have been thinking about this lately. This is my first winter with my trailer but I use it 2-3 weekends a month and plan on the same cadence through the winter.

I'm not sure what I should do in my situation.

[beeje]

I'll be the Oddball here again. I know I'll get flamed for it but here goes. I have always simply just put three to four gallons in the fresh tank pumped it through every fixture done takes 10 minutes. Zero chance of missing anyting left in the lines.

Yes in the spring I have to do several flushes to get the foam and taste out but that's no big deal. Like most we really don't drink the water anyway.

[2Wheels]

Originally Posted by ChadZ

Sorry to hear you’re having issues with winterization. It is shameful that they can’t build these RVs with an easier way to winterize them . We bought a brand new Keystone 3121 RL Fifth Wheel and had many problems with winterization as well . That being said we recommend RV antifreeze . We know people that use both methods. They both work . I think it’s a matter of preference but we feel RV antifreeze is a safer way to go than air. One way to winterize your camper with antifreeze might be to get the antifreeze into your holding tank. That way you don’t have to dig for the demand pump. Wishing you the best of luck.

Mine has two lines underneath near the city water connection and the dealer told me those are for winterizing the unit.

[ncstan]

If you use only air don't forget about the toilet and push the pedal down a few times or water might freeze in the valve and come spring you will be wondering why water is on your bathroom floor after hooking up the camper to water.

[dalamarjj78]

Originally Posted by JohnnyP

What is best? I cannot even get to water pump without removing the stove or possibly the outside kitchen. 2010 cougar 26bhs. Am I missing an easy access to pump or should I just use air. 1st timer asking for help.

I found this thread where they discussed the same problem:

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...read.php?t=353

From what they said there, you should at least have an access panel to get to the back of the water heater so you can bypass for winterization.

I've only used the antifreeze method but am considering blowing air this year just in case we have nice weather and want to go camping during the off season.

But we're in NC and the winters aren't near as bad as they are up north.

[cavediver]

Originally Posted by Mikelff

Good info from everyone. I’m in Texas so I just use antifreeze. No compressor to blow out lines. Was wondering if a good tire pump compressor would work for that???

It's not pressure as much as volume of air. I had a tire pump that would pump to 275psi, it would fill a tire in three days. No volume behind it. My guess is a tire pump alone might be a bad choice. I've used the air method for years, I do take my time and go through at least twice. I've not had a problem. I take my water pump out for the winter, I keep it in the house.

[CaptainDave]

I use air,. I really liked this informational video done by the rvgeeks.

https://youtu.be/fyjFAFFe7xs

[pstltaz]

I live in Virginia. I drain, then bypass the water heater and use antifreeze. I purchased an inexpensive pump from northen tool and equipment to push the antifreeze.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Mikelff

Good info from everyone. I’m in Texas so I just use antifreeze. No compressor to blow out lines. Was wondering if a good tire pump compressor would work for that???

I just use my pancake compressor and turn the pressure down to 40psi .. Only antifreeze I use is in the pee traps and toilet bowl..

[sdetweil]

on my Alpine, the cover for filter for the water pump is at the bottom, and no amount of air will empty it.. it cracked the 1st year, now use antifreeze..

[packnrat]

guess i am lucky, where i live no need to “winterize” a rv.
it can freeze where i live. ( 1000ft elv northern ca) sure we get a touch of snow...some years. but never a problem. maybe the water just drains out someplace i do not know about?

[notanlines]

Beeje, I don’t know why anyone would flame you for that idea. One of the problems is not all RVs will pick up with just three or 4 gallons in the bottom of the freshwater tank.

[WNY Bullet]

I blow mine out and pump through antifreeze. Blowing out the lines from my City Hookup bypasses the pump and debris filter so water is still in them and could cause damage. By blowing out the my lines first, limits the dilution of the antifreeze from the water already residing in the lines. And of course I also dump antifreeze in all the traps. My Black Tank Flush I just blow out.

[getsomesun1]

Originally Posted by nellie1289

I’ve only air winterized. If there is no water in the lines how can they freeze? Maybe a little residual water in the water pump? I’ve only done air for six years no issues.

Same here. Air and a little Anti freeze in P traps and toilet bowl. going on 5th year no issues.

[jpwhite]

I'll chime in.. from Michigan.

I dump and flush all the tanks and the drain pipe.

I drain the hot water tank, turn off the exterior electric switch and put it in by pass mode.

My preference is to run antifreeze through all the water lines, including toilet, shower and washer and dryer hookups. The Montana has an freeze guard inlet that makes this convenient. It does need a good hose connection to get the pump to pull the antifreeze out of the jug.

I blow all the antifreeze out from every line. I hook the compressor up to the city inlet. I set the pressure regulator to between 40 and 50 psi. I have both a 110 VAC 150 PSI Porter Cable compressor and a 12 volt 150 psi ViAir 400P-RV compressor. The 110 unit has an outlet pressure regulator, I added a separate in line pressure regulator for 12 volt. As configured, both work fine.

I put another gallon down the drains to protect the drain lines and tanks.

If I don't have the time, such as returning too early from the south, I just blow the lines out using my ViAir.

[Roy Finchville]

Originally Posted by JohnnyP

What is best? I cannot even get to water pump without removing the stove or possibly the outside kitchen. 2010 cougar 26bhs. Am I missing an easy access to pump or should I just use air. 1st timer asking for help.

I used to pump air and ended up with problems so instead I now use RV antifreeze. Bought a hand pump transfer pump from Harbor Freight for about $10 bucks. I and my son have used it for 4 years. Screw discharge end into city water connection and other end in rv antifreeze jug. Takes us about 1 1/2 gallons. Use the rest to pour in traps. Prior to starting we drain hot water heater and use valves on back of hot water heater to isolate it from the rest of the system. We start by opening faucet farthest from where I pump antifreeze. Then turn faucet off. Then move to the next one until pink juice comes from all.

[Captainf2]

I live in New England, 3 TTs and on my 2nd FW, always do both, the sags in the pex will gather water, not bad if is on a straight piece but if its near a fitting is gone when it freezes. Sometimes you need to remove the drawers to access the pump. The black flush has the line vent that drains but your do diligence to do it completely makes for a happy spring. The pink smell sometimes depends on the brand, but you have a smell mix bleach and water, portions aren't much, flush through does double duty, sanitize and deodorize. Good luck and stay safe