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Old 08-23-2020, 11:45 AM   #1
DDG
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Dining room table

Last 2 camping trips the dining room table has had the screws come out. I would like to know what is the best way to fix this problem. Camper is a 2017 Cougar X-lite 28rks 5th wheel. Thanks for any help. DDG
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Old 08-23-2020, 12:03 PM   #2
Gary R.
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Might try some adhesive on the screw threads. I've used that procedure successfully on various fasteners that tend to vibrate out during towing.

Good luck, and take care!
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Old 08-23-2020, 12:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDG View Post
Last 2 camping trips the dining room table has had the screws come out. I would like to know what is the best way to fix this problem. Camper is a 2017 Cougar X-lite 28rks 5th wheel. Thanks for any help. DDG
Are you talking about the screws that hold the table top to the table base, the screws that hold the hinges for the 'fold down extension or the screws that hold the base to the slide floor ???? There are completley different "fixes" for each, and what works for one would damage another so that nothing could repair it....

So, which screws are you talking about ?????
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:57 PM   #4
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Dining room table

I'm sorry John for not putting it that they are the screws that hold the table to the floor in the slide out. DDG.
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:59 PM   #5
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Thanks for your reply Gary R. I should have said the screws that hold the table to the floor
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Old 08-23-2020, 04:20 PM   #6
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Those screws are "accessible from below the slide when it is extended"... If the screws repeatedly loosen, you can try larger screws but not longer screws. That might hold for a while, but probably won't be a "permanent fix"...

What I've done in the past, when the 5/8" plywood (or OSB) floor is damaged and screws just won't hold any more, is extend the slide, drill a small pilot hole through the floor at each location where the stripped screws are located. Then countersink the bottom of each of those pilot holes. (It's easier to access the wood if you cut a small X slit in the DARCO bottom covering). Once the wood is countersunk, drill the holes so they are just under the size of the replacement screw shanks. Then position the table over the screw holes, screw the table in position from below the slide. Once they are tight, use small pieces of SCRIM tape to reseal the X slits in the DARCO.

There is a "fine line" between countersunk holes and flat head screws to fit them. The goal is to maintain a completely flat surface under the slide so nothing catches on the guide rails, the rubber seal or the vinyl/carpet flooring under the slide.

Doing it "from the bottom up" you can use 1.5", 2" or even longer screws which will get their "bite" from the solid wood in the table base, not from the much thinner floor.
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Old 08-23-2020, 05:00 PM   #7
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Thanks for the reply John, but the screws go from the top of the base on the table thru the carpet in to the wood underneath. The screws are about 17/8'' long. The base of the table is 1'', with what I see is about 3/4'' of the screw is going into the wood floor. Should I go with the next size up screw cause they have a cover that snaps on the top of the screw. Thanks DDG
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Old 08-23-2020, 05:19 PM   #8
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The objective is NOT to have anything protruding below the DARCO under the slide. If you install screws from the top, the only "bite" they'll get to hold them in place is the "thin floor decking". The screws will continue to pull out of you go from the top down because there's nothing to hold them in place. You can't go from the top down and use "longer screws" because they will project below the floor decking and destroy the slide components and the main cabin floor as the slide moves in or out.

To get any "structural strength, you'll have to "change your approach" and go from the bottom up. That way, the floor decking is not what holds the screw threads in place (a weak grip in thin wood) but rather you'll have the heads of the screws holding the table in place (under the floor decking) and the threads of the screws secured in as much of the table base as you want to drill into. Most will probably find that the 1" of solid wood on the table base is enough to hold it in place, but some decide to drill into the table pedestal as well, in which case you can go with 3 or 4 inch screws (or as long as you wish, provided you can drill a straight hole and stay centered on the base/pedestal structure....

The "BOTTOM LINE" is that you want NOTHING (and I mean absolutely nothing) projecting below the DARCO underliner under the slide floor. It will catch on the slide guides, the rub bar and/or the vinyl or carpeting and destroy whatever those projecting screws might catch on... You want the screw heads flat against the bottom of the floor decking (if you go from the bottom up).....
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Old 08-24-2020, 03:11 AM   #9
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Thanks John, I will go from the bottom up. I just don't why Keystone would put them from the top down when they should know that they won't hold. Thanks.DDG
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Old 08-24-2020, 05:45 AM   #10
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Thanks John, I will go from the bottom up. I just don't why Keystone would put them from the top down when they should know that they won't hold. Thanks.DDG
It's not "just Keystone" that does it from the top down. Every manufacturer uses the same technique to install a table with a wooden pedestal. They do it that way because it's fast, cheap and easy to do. Plus, it's the only way to install a metal pedestal base, typically used for booth style tables with a single or double "tube pedestal base"... So, the "natural progression" from metal to wood would be installed the same way.....

Honestly, with hundreds/thousands of tables mounted "from the top down" and only a few that come loose, I'd suspect that it's more the user pushing on the table edges that causes the stress than it is the "way the table is secured to the floor...

So, without pointing fingers, look at the way people use the table to help themselves get up from a chair rather than the way it's mounted to the floor.... It may be that you or someone else in your family is actually causing the problem instead of the way it's mounted. You may find that no matter how you mount the table to the floor, it's going to be a problem because of "misuse" not "installation issues".....
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Old 08-24-2020, 06:02 AM   #11
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I have had 2 rigs with the table secured from the top and I have never had them come loose. both went back and forth from MN to FL many times.
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Old 08-24-2020, 08:02 AM   #12
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Not saying this happened here but to John's point....

As a previous owner of several boats and RVs over the years most folks unfamiliar with these vehicles don't understand how fragile they can be.

I've had to point out to kids and adults alike not to "jump into" a boat, or stomp on the RV steps, or fall into a couch or booth seat, or "push up" from the table. Some folks are just "hard" on everything. When my DW and I were dating she slammed every door including the car. When I asked her why she said that was the only way they would close. Her entire family did it.

I explained that slamming the door knocks it out of alignment and makes it difficult to close and latch. I adjusted the car doors and every door in her parent's house and they closed easily. Her father still slammed doors, navar learned. He also used car doors as lever to let himself down, and pull himself up from the car seat. When he rode in my car I made him get in or out and not touch the door. I would open the door, hold the door open and and close it myself. It was purely habit as there was no physical need for him to do that.

Thankfully the DW broke her habit of slamming doors but her father never did. He broke everything he ever owned and blamed it all on "poorly made" stuff.
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Old 08-24-2020, 06:05 PM   #13
DDG
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Dining room table

Thanks, everyone for the replys on the dining room table I will fix as John said it should be done. I would like to thank you all for the help this form has given to all with questions and answers for things that go wrong or need to be fix. Thanks DDG
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:26 AM   #14
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I had the same problem, ( table with 2 legs, carpet, in the slide). remove the legs and base, cut a piece of 3/4 plywood the width and length of the 2 bases and just slide it under the carpet. I used longer screws to secure the base to the 3/4 plywood and floor under the carpet. it is now solid and I can barely feel the 3/4 plywood under the carpet.
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Old 08-28-2020, 05:49 AM   #15
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I always remove the table top from the two poles and lay it on the bed or bunks before ever moving the camper at all. It wiggles to begin with, I can only imagine what bouncing down the road does to the bases, not to mention the rubbing on the sidewall under the window. Sad part is there is no “wood” to speak of in our floor so those screws are only down through the hydro deck floor (styrofoam). I see a day sooner or later with the coroplast dropped down and long screws/washers/locknuts and a 4” drill bit if you catch my drift. (luckily no slide involved!)
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Old 08-30-2020, 08:05 AM   #16
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We took our screws out so we can move the table to allow more room around it. We wedge it in the corner when traveling. Rides okay. ��*♂️
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Old 08-30-2020, 04:15 PM   #17
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Quite possibly we're odd, but the two of us seldom use a table at home. I see no need to carry one in my trailer.
The Eastern edition of out Passport had a sofa option instead, but we're on the west coast. Maybe someone can explain why easterners prefer sofas and westerners prefer tables.
We're in the process of swapping our useless table for a nice recliner sofa.
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Old 08-30-2020, 05:43 PM   #18
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Quite possibly we're odd, but the two of us seldom use a table at home. I see no need to carry one in my trailer.
The Eastern edition of out Passport had a sofa option instead, but we're on the west coast. Maybe someone can explain why easterners prefer sofas and westerners prefer tables.
We're in the process of swapping our useless table for a nice recliner sofa.
Interesting - what model/year Passport?

Never heard of Westerners or Easterners having that type of preference. I've lived both on coasts (CA and FL) and in between.
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Old 08-30-2020, 07:08 PM   #19
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We had a problem with our dual pedestal dinette table being wobbly at delivery. The issue was caused over-torquing and stripping some of the base fasteners during assembly. CW made it worse by trying to tighten it up and stripping a few more.

I ended up fixing the issue by using the next larger size screws and a regular screw driver. We only travel with the table in the lowered position to minimize the stress on the screws.
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Old 08-31-2020, 02:30 AM   #20
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Interesting - what model/year Passport?

Never heard of Westerners or Easterners having that type of preference. I've lived both on coasts (CA and FL) and in between.
It's a 2019 model 2210RBWE GT. Last year the sofa wasn't offered, but I see it is this year.
Also another difference between the Western and Eastern edition is the wheel/tire size. The Eastern has 14" and the Western has 15".
I wonder why the differences for region?
https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...ravel-trailer/
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