Extreme wear on the inside of all four tires

[MtnGoat]

With less than 5000 miles on this set of new/good Carlisle tires, the inside tread is worn beyond exceptable. Ive checked the axles for signs of damage or bowing with a straight edge. We run with limited water and empty waste tanks. Our loading is limited as the trips are for 10 days or less. Im convinced that this is one of those trailers that was mfgd with marginally rated axles. So unless I spend more money to upgrade from 3000 lb axles, the tires will have to be replaced before our next adventure.

The original tires are the bias 205-75-D15 running at 45psi. Looking at moving up to a 225 profile radial on the 15x5 wheels.

I can read catalogs all day. But this forum has lots of advice that I respect.

Your response/debate to this decision is appreciated.



2008 242 Springdale Fifth Wheel - 2015 2500HD

Weighed @7580 loaded Pin Wt 1260.

[flybouy]

I believe Carlisle requires a 6 in. w rim for the 225 tires. Why aren't you using radials?

[JRTJH]

According to the 2008 Springdale brochure, the OEM tires were radial 205 75R15 LRC. The recommended pressure is 50 PSI. With a 12-13 year old trailer, it's probable that the tires have been replaced by what's currently on the trailer. Tires may have been replaced 3 or more times, so what's there is probably not the OEM tires.

If you're going to increase the tire size to 225 75R15 LRE, the recommended pressure is 80 PSI and a wheel width of 6". Your wheels "may not" be rated for that kind of load or that kind of pressure, so you might want to check your wheels before spending any money on a "tire upgrade that won't work with current wheels".....

[sourdough]

Look at the backs of those wheels and find what the load/psi rating is, that will tell you what you can put on the wheel safely.

[GHen]

You said you checked the tires with a straight edge, did you check front to rear, compared to the other tire? Any gap may indicate your axel is bent from turning, not weight.
My daughter just had both the axels replaced on her trailer, due to sharp turns.

[MtnGoat]

Now I'm looking for a 15x6 5 on 4.25 wheels. Not common. At all.
Trailer came with Carlisle bias tires. Thats why Im switching to radials.

I checked the bow across the axle (loading) Not from sharp turns.



Geez why did Keystone put such light axles on a 7500lb trailer? Dumb question I know.

[Hblick48]

I had the exact same thing happen to me. New set of tires, and 3/4 way into a cross country trip, inside of all 4 tires were worn down past the tread. Stopped at Les Schwab in Toolee, Utah and had tires flipped on rims so worn part was now on the outside. They were nice enough to let us boondock under their canopy.

Got home and found two issues: 1) Like GHen said, I used a straight edge across the tires and found right front bent in. Did "hillbilly" alignment using chain and 30 ton bottle jack. 2) My rig was equipped with two 6,000 pound axles, however the springs were rated at 2,500 pounds...a way for Keystone to save $10 per unit. I installed 3,000 pound rated springs (one extra leaf). 4 new tires and another cross country trip. I bought a tread depth gauge to check wear this time. Happy to say that 10,000 miles later tread wear was even across all 4 tires.

[MtnGoat]

I threw a straight edge on the tires and there is some alignment issues for sure. Going to find a shop to get this corrected. Stockton and Sacramento are the closest big cities that appear to have shops equipped to do this.


We'll see......

[GHen]

Since we know the manufacturers are giving us light weight, under rated parts, once you get it fixed, there are some ways to avoid the problem from coming back. I had problems backing into my home parking spot, which is asphalt. I was pushing the rig at nearly 90 degrees to get it into its spot, that’s just asking for trouble. I’m sure others will have more tips, but here are a couple.
On a hard surface, if you see stress on the tires, pull forward a few inches for every foot going back.
Another way is to toss some sand or gravel or even water down so the tires are allowed to slip.
Also, when you’re on the road, just avoiding sharp turning whenever possible. U turns are a classic example, take a few extra minutes and go around the block.

[busterbrown]

Originally Posted by MtnGoat

So unless I spend more money to upgrade from 3000 lb axles,...

...Weighed @7580 loaded Pin Wt 1260.

So with a pin weight of 1260# and a loaded weight of 7580#, are you already overweight on the 3000# axles? (7580-1260=6320#) - 6000 lbs (axles x 2) =320#.

If this is the case, You may need to be searching for new axle replacements (4400# or above).

[FlyingAroundRV]

Originally Posted by GHen

You said you checked the tires with a straight edge, did you check front to rear, compared to the other tire? Any gap may indicate your axel is bent from turning, not weight.
My daughter just had both the axels replaced on her trailer, due to sharp turns.

Is this for real? Can you bend the axles just by turning a trailer?
We have unusual wear on the insides of the tires on our rear axle. I never dreamed that the running gear of these trailers was so underrated that they would fail in what is essentially normal operation!

[GHen]

I’m my daughters case yes, and the manufacturer replaced the axels with new ones under warranty. You could see the hubs turned out without even a straight edge.

In many cases, the manufacturers will use the same axel set on various sized units. When I was shopping, the 29’, 30 and 32 all had the same axels. On the biggest it had half the payload of the smaller unit, Too much weight on too light of axels. If the manufacturer shows less payload, they know the axels are maxed out. Just trying to save a buck.

[MtnGoat]

Originally Posted by busterbrown

So with a pin weight of 1260# and a loaded weight of 7580#, are you already overweight on the 3000# axles? (7580-1260=6320#) - 6000 lbs (axles x 2) =320#.

If this is the case, You may need to be searching for new axle replacements (4400# or above).

Bingo! New/used axles, bearings, brakes and tires. 1800 dollar investment into a 2008 rig? Whats it worth? 7500 tops. And how did Keystone get away with building and licensing this model?

My dilemma....

[busterbrown]

The real question should be "what is it worth to you?".

In some ways, I had faced a similar delemma. 1.5 years ago, after rounding out our 3rd season in our Bullet, I experienced a leaf spring failure at a local campground. The "hard to source" mono leaf spring put us in limbo for about 3 days until I figured a way to get the coach off the campground property and back home.

Keystone "so kindly" equipped my 2 year old trailer with the cheapest springs they could find, mono leaf springs that are usually found on the chassis of a mobile home. Dexter ended up sending a complete new set (4 in total) after a second failure happened just 2 weeks later.

I came to a set of cross roads at this point. Knowing my 3500 lb axles only provided 7000 lbs of carrying capacity to my 7600# GVWR coach (I was aware of TW being assumed by the TV), was it time to take a loss, sell the coach the DW loved, and bind into an purchurse agreement on a new, more expensive model? Or was it my best interest to rectify the situation by 'upfitting' the coach with new heavier axles, new spring packs, new larger wheels and tires, and new wet bolts. Based on our situation, I choose the latter route. 5200# axles, 6 pack leaf springs, 2800# wheels and tires, and a steel reinforcement beams from hanger to hanger to help mitigate excessive turning forces. A nicely upgrade package worth $2800.

Several years earlier while going through the process of this RV purchase, I was "wet behind the ears" like most first time RV buyers are. Didn't realize that value-based, lightweight coaches are subject to ligher, cost saving components. The OEM tires lacked any reserve carrying capacity, the axles were barely adequate, and the mono leaf springs were a second thought during the build process.

Because the DW and I were in agreement to upgrade those components, we're now comfortable traveling anywhere around the US and Canada. We have since put on 10,000 miles and are planning our 14K mile Alaskan adventure this summer. So, to us, it was the appropriate investment.

If you feel your coach is in exceptional shape and you plan on a few more seasons with her, it may be your wise "investment".

As an afterthough: being nearly 13 years old, I would assume there is no loan on it. In that case, take a trip up to your local dealer and peruse through the current models in inventory. If you feel the urge to pull out your wallet, then there is your answer. If, on the other hand, the 5 digit sale prices nauseate you (or least have you rolling your eyes), then drive back home and give your 13 year old beauty a hug! Follow that up with an appointment at an axle shop. Easy peasy.

[MtnGoat]

Thanks for your incite Busterbrown. Our "problems" are almost identical. Noobies buying into a rig not realizing the marginal designs by the manufacturer. Only to later be forced to sell or dump more money.



For now Im not going with the 225 radial. Finding a 6" wheel on a 5 on 4.25 bolt pattern is not going well. After laying a straight edge on side of the tires there is an obvious problem. The rig is going to an alignment shop tomorrow. Once this is corrected then I'll get the radials on a 205 profile.

Any suggestions on the brand best to buy?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by MtnGoat

Thanks for your incite Busterbrown. Our "problems" are almost identical. Noobies buying into a rig not realizing the marginal designs by the manufacturer. Only to later be forced to sell or dump more money.



For now Im not going with the 225 radial. Finding a 6" wheel on a 5 on 4.25 bolt pattern is not going well. After laying a straight edge on side of the tires there is an obvious problem. The rig is going to an alignment shop tomorrow. Once this is corrected then I'll get the radials on a 205 profile.

Any suggestions on the brand best to buy?

https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-W...T/AM22627.html

Many folks on here have been ordering the Carlisle tires from Walmart with good results at a good price.

[busterbrown]

Originally Posted by MtnGoat

Thanks for your incite Busterbrown. Our "problems" are almost identical. Noobies buying into a rig not realizing the marginal designs by the manufacturer. Only to later be forced to sell or dump more money.



For now Im not going with the 225 radial. Finding a 6" wheel on a 5 on 4.25 bolt pattern is not going well. After laying a straight edge on side of the tires there is an obvious problem. The rig is going to an alignment shop tomorrow. Once this is corrected then I'll get the radials on a 205 profile.

Any suggestions on the brand best to buy?

Have you tried recstuff.com for new wheels? They have a very comprehensive inventory of styles and sizes. I've purchased two sets from them. Pricing was reasonable.

I'd suggest finding those 6" wheels you need and buy an appropriate set of 225 wide tires. You'll have much more tire choices in 225/75/15's than in 205's. Pricing will be very similar but you'll gain so much more in reserve capacity.

As far as brand, 3 of the best (from most affordable) include: Carlisle Radial Trail HD, Maxxis 8008's, and GY Endurance. Personally, I think that the Carlisle are the "best bang for your buck". I just picked up a new set from Walmart for $82.99 each in LRE. This i preparation for our Alaska trip.

[MtnGoat]

Originally Posted by busterbrown

Have you tried recstuff.com for new wheels?



Personally, I think that the Carlisle are the "best bang for your buck". I just picked up a new set from Walmart for $82.99 each in LRE. This i preparation for our Alaska trip.

Yep. The 5 on 4.25 is a light axle pattern. I did find some steel auto wheels for a Ford Taurus/Thunderbird in 15x6. New for another $250/set of 4.


I'm thinking of the smallest investment into the rig for now. Enjoy it for a year or two and keep our eyes open on a replacement in the future. Until the alignment is corrected, its grounded from traveling.


I'll checkin with the alignment findings.

[GHen]

I’m not sure how an alignment shop is going to fix the issues, the axel bends. It’s not adjustable. A frame shop might be able to bend them back to correct position, the metal is just not strong enough to handle the stress of weight or turning forces.
If under warranty, I would suggest negotiating a replacement with a heavier axel, even if you need to pay the extra. It will probably also require heavier mounting hardware since the tube may be larger in diameter.

Not all rv’s have the issue, every 3-4 sized units use the same axel set. I was choosing between two units. One was the largest unit on a lighter axel set, the other was the smallest unit on the next heavier axel set. I choose the unit with latter with the largest payload, meaning the axel could handle much more than what was needed.

[MtnGoat]

Originally Posted by GHen

I’m not sure how an alignment shop is going to fix the issues, the axel bends.

We'll see. Going to the shop int he morning.
I'll post some pics too.


Anyone have experience with the Lippert Correct Track Suspension Alignment Kit?