Parking on Gravel Pad

[ZephyrBill]

I'm looking to place my 2011 Keystone Avalanche 330 RE on a gravel pad and would like to hear from anyone who has done this and could tell me what kind of gravel they used , the depth of gravel ( 6 inches , for example). Also, if you could please tell me the model of 5th Wheel you have and it's weight. I think the weight along with the thickness of the gravel will have a bearing on how much i use.

I live in the Tampa Bay area in Florida. For the most part, the soil is a sand based material. I've had the Avalanche for a week now, and it's currently sitting on a ground based surface. My Avalanche is 39 ft long and weighs in at approximately 14,300 lbs.

[Frank G]

Bill, a lot depends on the compaction of the soil, we have grassy area's in the resort that are driven and parked on by the heaviest of rigs with hardly leaving a dent. There are other area's where I have seen them sink to the axles. Personally I would have concrete parking strips put in surrounded by stone.

FYI we are about 15 miles north of you.

[mtofell]

It's tough because 3/4 minus gravel remains stable but weeds easily sprout and there is dust. 3/4-1/4 helps both of those issues but the lack of fine sand allows the rocks to slip past one another more easily and you can sink in it easier. Pick your poison I guess.

I recently would have been stuck at a new RV park if not for my 4X4 because they used 3/4-1/4 gravel and I just started to dig in coming up a pretty slight slope.

If the site is level I'd personally go for the 3/4-1/4 and just plan to put down some plywood or lumber pieces under jacks and tires to distribute out the load a bit. If you are dealing with any slope or there is any worry about traction go with 3/4 minus.

[Northofu1]

I don't have a gravel pad to park mine on, at this time.
However, I am familiar with making patios. The type of soil really dictates how you lay the pad. The wetter and softer it is the more difficult and labour intensive. If your soil is on the softer side, a border would help with migration. I like PT 4"x4" cheap and easy to work with. I would really google it and see steps you may have to take to achieve what you want. There will be videos and articles on the different strategies due to the conditions of soil. There is a lot of clay where I live so it's easy. I use a good base of 3/4 stone, limestone screenings and a lot of tamping with a gas tamper (Whacker).
Good luck

* "I recently would have been stuck at a new RV park if not for my 4X4 because they used 3/4-1/4 gravel and I just started to dig in coming up a pretty slight slope." Quoted Mtofell

Using the screenings a couple inches and wet them to help settle, then tamp, 2" more wet/ tamp, until your desired level is met.

[flybouy]

I would recommend reaching out to your local county soil conservation office and also a local sand/gravel supplier. They should have. some insights into the local ground conditions and what will or wil not work.

[wiredgeorge]

I live on a hillside. Have one fairly level spot and that is where my pad is. About 1 foot of road base on top of solid stone (bedrock or such) underneath). I have had to add water run off channels next to the pad so it doesn't get washed in heavy rains.

[JRTJH]

I have a gravel parking pad for the fifth wheel beside my garage and a gravel drive at the pole barn, about 1/4 mile from the house. The soil at the house is sand base and I used #18 crushed limestone about 6" thick with concrete 4x8x16 blocks for tire pads. I've had no real issues with this pad.

At the pole barn, there is a sand/topsoil/rocky base. I used #24 crushed limestone there. It is about two times the size of the crushed pieces at the pad beside the garage.

There is a significant difference in "crushed limestone" and "gravel". River rock or gravel that is "naturally rounded" will not lock in place, even if compressed with a tamper and the individual rocks will slide against each other, allowing ruts, settling and even sinking while driving over the surface.

If you have access to crushed limestone, it's called Afton in this area, I'd suggest using it rather than "pit run gravel" (with rounded edges).

As suggested, contact the local sand/gravel dealers and/or the agricultural district office for suggestions. Every area is different and every type of soil requires a different technique to obtain a suitable surface.

[Mikendebbie]

I googled “geotechnical report Tampa Florida” and read thru a report for a Pinellas county project just to get a feel for similarities or differences to Central Texas pavement recommendations. See the screen shot below for a light duty pavement section.

You are not going to build your driveway like this using asphalt - but the key information for light duty pavement is 6” base course over compacted sub grade. The asphalt is just thick paint meant to shed water and does not contribute greatly to load carrying capabilities. You will not be preparing your sub grade to 12” deep but you will need to compact your sub grade as best as you can. If you have a thick layer of grass you should consider removing it. The grass will rot and allow your surface to settle unevenly. Then you should make sure the sub grade is damp/wet - not muddy wet - and start compacting the area. I ran over my black clay sub grade with my truck - forward and backward, move over a bit and run it over again and again. Keep doing it for 30 minutes to an hour. Back and forth. Your sub grade is probably mostly sand (as you stated) but it also has some silts and fines which will help bind the sand and compact. Hopefully your sand is not like beach sand and just squishes out from under your tires (like B-Bs would).

I am not familiar with the aggregates they use in the Tampa area. In Central TX we use crushed limestone. I added a parking space for my truck recently and I chose to use crushed recycled concrete from a pit about 5 miles away, which cost me $220 for a 12 cy load. For comparison crushed limestone was $200 for a 12 cy load. Aggregate pricing is mostly dependent on trucking distances. Crushed concrete is harder and does not deteriorate like crushed limestone over time.

In summary - 6” gravel should work + compact your sub grade as best as you can. Calculate your geometric volume and add 20% for waste due to compaction. Sorry for the long post.

[hornet28]

I have a crushed asphalt pad that's been in use for over 10 yrs.

[xrated]

The RED line in this picture is a visual indicator for me, when backing the trailer into the shelter. The outside edge of the tires on the driver's side of the trailer need to be right up against that line in order for the proper clearance for the trailer. I really wanted a wider shelter, but I am at the limit for width without infringing on the easement/road right of way that runs past the house.

[gearhead]

I used TxDOT road base for about 10' of transition from my concrete driveway to my RV parking area. I'm not sure what it is, maybe limestone, crushed concrete and some stabilized sand? I covered that and the remainder of the pad with maybe 3" crushed limestone. The road base set up very hard and quickly. The rest of the limestone pad gets some ruts around the edges after driving on it when wet, which is often here. I use treated 2" X 12" X 8' as runners to park the tires on. Also use scrap lumber or concrete pads for the stabilizers. I have the 18,000# GVW Oshkosh, the 3,000# Bigfoot, 1,500?# john boat, and a 500# utility trailer parked back there. I call it Paw Paws junkyard. Yes, it's privacy fenced off from the street and our backyard.

[mtofell]

Originally Posted by xrated

The RED line in this picture is a visual indicator for me, when backing the trailer into the shelter.

That's great.... I did the exact thing a few years ago and can't believe I didn't think to do it sooner. I also put a mark on the curb where I want the trailer tires to pass so I know I'm on a good line. I've got a similarly tight slip and not much road out front to work with.

[goducks]

I parked my 5er on 3/4 minus for 6 years. Before that I parked a TT on the same gravel. Not one issue. Well I did have one. Weeds. Kept getting a few popping up. Roundup fixed them.
I had about 4" of gravel down.
I don't see any difference between parking at home on gravel or parking at a CG on gravel. Heck some of the RV dealer lots are nothing more than gravel.

[KCAD]

I just recently lengthed my driveway and used 3/4 gravel. I added a couple of concrete blocks where my tires sit and it helped with leveling as well. I also added 12"x12" blocks underneath area's where I do maintenance, my knees aren't what they used to be...

[sonofcy]

Originally Posted by ZephyrBill

I'm looking to place my 2011 Keystone Avalanche 330 RE on a gravel pad and would like to hear from anyone who has done this and could tell me what kind of gravel they used , the depth of gravel ( 6 inches , for example). Also, if you could please tell me the model of 5th Wheel you have and it's weight. I think the weight along with the thickness of the gravel will have a bearing on how much i use.

I live in the Tampa Bay area in Florida. For the most part, the soil is a sand based material. I've had the Avalanche for a week now, and it's currently sitting on a ground based surface. My Avalanche is 39 ft long and weighs in at approximately 14,300 lbs.

I park my 16,000 pound Montana on gravel I had trucked in. I got the wrong kind (twice) so the gravel squirms, it doesn't lock and/or bond together. Where I used to lie we used limestone gravel and after it dried it was about as non deformable as concrete. I used it on my driveway, my neighbour used regular gravel. I never maintained mine, he had new gravel added every year. I got the wrong gravel at a different place that doesn't have limestone sadly. Now I use large wooden pads.

[flybouy]

I have a BIL who built a house about 10 yrs ago. His driveway is about 600 ft long. He used milled asphalt at just a small upcharge from gravel (at least then), and at a significantly lower cost than virgin asphalt.. 10 yrs later it looks like the day it was put down. He parks a 30' Jayco camper, his cars, and his backhoe on it with no "rutting".

[chunker]

If you have access to it, recycled concrete is a good option. Basically it's old concrete bridges, columns, etc that is ground up. In NW FL there has been an abundance due to hurricane damages to bridges and replacing older 2 lane with 4 lane. It isn't created equal and some debris, wire rebar, plastic, etc. will be in it. We put it down in Freeport Fl on a bayou lot for the driveway and RV parking pads. First couple of months I walked regularly picking up that debris as it migrated up. It makes a very hard stable surface. Installer used a tamping road roller thing to compress and "tamp". Very happy with it except fo one part that was over a water line that I had to dig up. Very difficult dig but in a way that's a good thing. Hard surface. BUT you have to have access to the product.

[Carolyn]

I have no idea on your pad but I do have a 2012 Avalanche 330 and hope you love yours as much as we love ours!!! We have had it for 3 years now and have been very happy with it! We are snowbirds and living in it now in AZ.

[Bob R]

I use decomposed (crushed) granite to park on. It is very angular and over time will settle and lock into place from the friction on other pieces. I am on hard soil and about 4-6 inches of granite. The material comes in many sizes, i am using one size up from "pathway" granite.

bob