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Old 05-27-2020, 11:56 AM   #1
Uzelessknowledge
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Do I or Don’t I?!?

Hello all newbie here.
TLDR: What RV can we safely tow with a Silverado 1500?

Wife and I think we want an RV. We’ve not stepped foot on a dealer lot and are already overwhelmed.
The RV will supplement our vacations which are normally at a timeshare. The timeshare is paid for and all we pay are maintenance fess, so we’re getting our money out of it. We want to take long weekends and then once a year use it longer for traveling. That’s the thought any way.

We have a Silverado 1500 that is spec’d for GCVWR 12k, towing 9100. I’ve looked at multiple calculators and I see I can get a trailer anywhere from 3,500 to 7klbs. I’m so confused. I know we need to add our weight and all the stuff we will take with us. That is where I end up on the very low end. I don’t think we need to factor in a fully loaded trailer with all 3 tanks full.

We like the Bullet 221RB, but is that too much trailer for the truck we have?

Thank you for any help.
Travis
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:05 PM   #2
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:28 PM   #3
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Yup, tried that. It says I can tow 8100lbs. But that seems extreme since the tow capacity is 9100 and GCVWR is 12,000.
This is another site I was looking at. http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-...eight-tt.shtml

Am I over thinking it?
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:52 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Uzelessknowledge View Post
Hello all newbie here.
TLDR: What RV can we safely tow with a Silverado 1500?

Wife and I think we want an RV. We’ve not stepped foot on a dealer lot and are already overwhelmed.
The RV will supplement our vacations which are normally at a timeshare. The timeshare is paid for and all we pay are maintenance fess, so we’re getting our money out of it. We want to take long weekends and then once a year use it longer for traveling. That’s the thought any way.

We have a Silverado 1500 that is spec’d for GCVWR 12k, towing 9100. I’ve looked at multiple calculators and I see I can get a trailer anywhere from 3,500 to 7klbs. I’m so confused. I know we need to add our weight and all the stuff we will take with us. That is where I end up on the very low end. I don’t think we need to factor in a fully loaded trailer with all 3 tanks full.

We like the Bullet 221RB, but is that too much trailer for the truck we have?

Thank you for any help.
Travis
There's 2 important numbers. 1. The sticker on the door pillar of the truck that states "The combined weight of occupants and cargo should not exceed"xxx lbs. That's the truck max load capacity.
2. The max weight rating of the trailer you are considering. To get a "real world" tongue weight take 13% of that max weight. So if the trailer is 5,000 lbs gross (fully loaded) so 5,000 X .12 = 600 lbs., if your looking at a loaded trailer of 7,500 lbs = 900b lb tongue weight. Do not look at empty weights, they don't exist.

Now take the first number from your truck, let's say it's 1,700 lbs. That was the available payload when it left the factory. Now you must figure in (subtract from that payload number) everything in the truck that wasn't put there on the assembly line including examples people, pets, tools, Bed liner, bed cover, firewood, food, etc. Also the weight of a weight distributing hitch.

So let's say you go big and want that 7,500 lb. trailer with the 900 lb tongue wt. 1,700 - 900 leaves 800 lbs remaining capacity. The weight distributing hitch is about 120 lbs so 800 - 120 =680 lbs. Let's say you & spouse are 400 together. 680 lbs - 400 lbs = 280 lbs remaining for anything else. 50 lbs of tools=230 lbs. left. Payload is the limiting factor for 1/2 ton trucks. The only way to know what your truck weighs is to load it up like you were going camping and take it to a Cat scale and weight it.
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:54 PM   #5
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First, the GCVWR is defined as "the maximum allowable weight of a loaded vehicle and its attached loaded trailer." 12,000 on a 6,000 lb truck? Somehow these numbers don't seem to gel.
And something I need to point out to you. This an entry level trailer, very small, and very few amenities. I think it is a quality choice, mind you, but if it works out you will be looking to upgrade fairly quickly. I would encourage you to shop wisely, possibly looking at a well-kept 5 year old similar model, have the brakes and bearings redone, buy four new tires and hit the road. No depreciation to speak of and easier to sell.
We'd also like to know the 'cargo capacity' from the door jamb sticker of your truck.
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:22 PM   #6
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If you've never towed an RV and especially tried to "make the numbers work" it can seem daunting...but it's really not. Marshall gave you a good idea on how to go about getting close in your approximations. If you can get those numbers off the driver door that would go a long way in helping you figure out where you stand.

Some other info that would be helpful for us to help you would be knowing how you think you want to use the RV. Are you taking friends? How many will be in the truck? Will you want to ride bikes, ATVs or go kayaking? Or, is it just you and DW and you just want to hang out somewhere nice? All those things will have a bearing on what you buy and what you can tow. The more you can share the better.

The 221rb is a 6400lb. trailer and 27' long so it's going to be getting toward the upper end of what you want to pull (and be happy/safe) with that truck. Don't let the numbers bog you down; you're doing the right thing getting the proper info/combo up front instead of regretting a mistake.
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:10 PM   #7
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@flybouy: thanks. This is what I was looking at from reading posts, i think some were yours.

@notanlines. You are right. I looked at the manual wrong. It is really has a GCWR of 15,000 lbs., if I'm reading the manual right.
I Have a 5.3L V8 with 3.42 axel ratio. Trailer load is listed as 9100. The cargo capacity is 1,506.
Size does have some concern, but when we vacation all we use is the bed. Out of all the years we have stayed in a condo with a full kitchen we have never cooked in it. We prefer to grill and would rather cook outside or better yet, eat out.
Yes, used has crossed our mind and I've been looking too.

@sourdough.Thanks. It is just the wife and I; no kids. Ideally, since we are just starting out, we are looking for places we can go to hike without having to stay at a hotel. We hike often. We'll take out bike, which are less than 100lbs total. We do have kayaks, but will leave them at home.

Thank you all for your help. What I can't find is the RGAWR, but after re-running the numbers it looks like I'm in a better position. I used this calculator.
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Old 05-27-2020, 07:14 PM   #8
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Additional question. I see the trailer GVWR. Does that mean with full water tanks? I would think if your destination is a park with water and electric, then you would travel light and with no water. Would this allow you to get a slightly heaver unit?

I've spotted the 2020 JAY FLIGHT SLX 8, but it has a GVWR of 7,000 lbs.
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Old 05-27-2020, 07:33 PM   #9
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Take my previous post and substitute the 1,700 lbs. with the actual 1,506 lbs. load capacity. Good luck.
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Old 05-27-2020, 09:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uzelessknowledge View Post
Additional question. I see the trailer GVWR. Does that mean with full water tanks? I would think if your destination is a park with water and electric, then you would travel light and with no water. Would this allow you to get a slightly heaver unit?



I've spotted the 2020 JAY FLIGHT SLX 8, but it has a GVWR of 7,000 lbs.
No the GVWR really has noting to do with a full water tank or not. It is just the max weight the trailer can be, should equal dry weight plus cargo carrying capacity. How much of that cargo capacity is water can very a lot by trailer.
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Old 05-27-2020, 10:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Uzelessknowledge View Post
Thank you all for your help. What I can't find is the RGAWR, but after re-running the numbers it looks like I'm in a better position. I used this calculator.
I endorse that calculator. I had to do a lot of research to locate all the numbers it required (door post, manual, under the hitch), but when I was done I finally understood the result and felt really confident. Also poorer, since I had to buy a new truck.

Three comments:
  1. You should review your tongue weight figure, because it is less than 10% of your trailer weight. At 12%, it doesn't seem to be a problem with the other numbers you have.
  2. You should supply the rear axle rating for your truck. I see you said you can't find it, but it's usually a separate white sticker on the same door panel as the yellow and white one. (The RGAW you'll have to get from an actual scale, with your truck loaded up as if you are traveling, but no trailer.)
  3. You should double-check the hitch label itself (underneath), as it's actually 1,050 for many of these trucks.
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Old 05-28-2020, 03:51 AM   #12
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No the GVWR really has noting to do with a full water tank or not. It is just the max weight the trailer can be, should equal dry weight plus cargo carrying capacity. How much of that cargo capacity is water can very a lot by trailer.
Makes sense. So traveling without water and then just the “normal” cargo I could stay well below the GVWR or the trailer?
We normally travel light anyway. Usually a suit case and some odds and ends.
I understand or realize with a trailer I’d have more things like a full bathroom and things in the kitchen, but I can’t imagine that would be more than a couple hundred pounds.
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Old 05-28-2020, 03:57 AM   #13
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I endorse that calculator. I had to do a lot of research to locate all the numbers it required (door post, manual, under the hitch), but when I was done I finally understood the result and felt really confident. Also poorer, since I had to buy a new truck.

Three comments:
  1. You should review your tongue weight figure, because it is less than 10% of your trailer weight. At 12%, it doesn't seem to be a problem with the other numbers you have.
  2. You should supply the rear axle rating for your truck. I see you said you can't find it, but it's usually a separate white sticker on the same door panel as the yellow and white one. (The RGAW you'll have to get from an actual scale, with your truck loaded up as if you are traveling, but no trailer.)
  3. You should double-check the hitch label itself (underneath), as it's actually 1,050 for many of these trucks.
Thank you for the help.
The tongue weight was the specified weight for the trailer. The calculator actually adds 15% unless you override and enter a percentage. So I think I’m good there.

I’m stuck at the rear axle rating. There is no other sticker in the door jams. There is a sticker in the glovebox with a bunch of codes. I used this to confirm the 3.42 axle ratio, before I found the window sticker. I’m not sure where else to look.

I’ll double check the the hitch. I have the trailering package that was offered in 2017 and also reviewed this site.
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/chevrolet/na/us/english/index/articles/truck-life/trailering-and-towing-guide/02-pdfs/2017-chevrolet-trailering-and-towing-guide.pdf

You’ll see once you get to page 9 this information matches what’s in my manual.
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Old 05-28-2020, 07:10 AM   #14
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Makes sense. So traveling without water and then just the “normal” cargo I could stay well below the GVWR or the trailer?
We normally travel light anyway. Usually a suit case and some odds and ends.
I understand or realize with a trailer I’d have more things like a full bathroom and things in the kitchen, but I can’t imagine that would be more than a couple hundred pounds.
When you consider that you'll need a spare tire (not included in the shipping weight), leveling blocks for under the wheels, sewer hose, water hose, pressure regulator, fittings for connecting all that to the campground utilities, battery/batteries for the trailer 12 volt system, lawn chairs, patio lights, grill, propane, books, clothing, pots and pans, dishes, silverware, food, toiletries, sheets, blankets, pillows, rain gear, hiking supplies, "and the list never seems to end"....

We haven't yet mentioned firewood, generator (for those ideal out of the way hiking spots) gas for the generator, axe, saw, tools, a way to secure the truck bed (tonneau or cap) "and that list never seems to end either"....

Most people add somewhere between 750-2000 pounds to their trailer by the time they get finished with the "initial packing" Then, it seems things seldom come out of the trailer, they just get pushed further back in the storage compartment, so the weight continues to grow, sometimes faster than anyone could ever imagine.
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Old 05-28-2020, 07:27 AM   #15
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Totally agree with John's statement. When backpacking you have a "built in weight limit". The typical trailer accumulates things over time. A trip tru a sporting goods store and the "new thingy" that you would never strap on your back becomes a "have to have" for the camper.

I learned this lesson many years ago boating. I noticed the boat wasn't performing as well, speed had reduced. Checked the bottom for growth, checked the prop, all was well. Went to talk to the service manager for advice and he wisely said "take everything out of the boat and pile it up on the dock. Then go for a test ride." Well, after an embarrassing pile of "just had to have stuff" was setting on the dock the boat ran like it was stolen. Lesson learned. It sneaks up on you.
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Old 05-28-2020, 07:29 AM   #16
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Saying you won't fill the tanks is really a falsehood. You can certainly control how much water you put in the fresh water tank, but don't assume you will never run into a case where you could use that extra water.

You can also say that you will always dump the holding tanks before travelling, but this also can backfire. For example, if the dump station at your campground is unavailable and you really, really need to leave now.

I've learned it's best to base everything on the assumption that the trailer is at max weight and then still factor in a 10-15% margin for safety.

It's not just whether or not your truck can pull the trailer - the rig (as a whole) needs to function safely in all conditions, including emergencies. For example, a deer jumps out in front of you and you have to hit the brakes and swerve.

Make sure you have plenty of truck to handle that load in all conditions.
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Old 05-28-2020, 07:45 AM   #17
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Saying you won't fill the tanks is really a falsehood. You can certainly control how much water you put in the fresh water tank, but don't assume you will never run into a case where you could use that extra water.

You can also say that you will always dump the holding tanks before travelling, but this also can backfire. For example, if the dump station at your campground is unavailable and you really, really need to leave now.

I've learned it's best to base everything on the assumption that the trailer is at max weight and then still factor in a 10-15% margin for safety.

It's not just whether or not your truck can pull the trailer - the rig (as a whole) needs to function safely in all conditions, including emergencies. For example, a deer jumps out in front of you and you have to hit the brakes and swerve.

Make sure you have plenty of truck to handle that load in all conditions.
Excellent point. I just do not understand how some people rationalize these decisions. It's just not logical. Driving a rig so close to the limits and rationalizing that "we only go short distances" or "we won't take water or use the holding tanks" is like saying "I don't need a fire extinguisher in my kitchen because I don't plan on setting my house on fire."

Maybe you should remove the truck and trailer spare tires, after all I'm sure your not planning on having a flat. If you are going to "eat out" and not carry food then why carry the stove/oven? Yank that out to lighten the load as well. Not trying to be a smart A$$ but attempting to give a logical approach to this. The one constant on the plant is gravity so 20 lbs. of water = 20 lbs. of anything else and it is cumulative. I don't know the OP, maybe you do have the self control not to load it up with a an accumulation of stuff but if that's true I dare say you are the exception.
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:51 AM   #18
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Before one takes off and begins camping in a full size RV some of the things you wind up in the RV seem crazy. Food processor? Slow cooker? Pressure cooker? Toaster oven? Crazy stuff before you encounter the need somewhere and know you have the room so....now you own one in the RV.

I came from the school of believing I wasn't going to be carrying anything and would get by with the very least; partially because with my last trailer I was over payload by about 200 lbs. That led to leaving "needed" and "would like to have" items sitting in the barn when we took off. Picking up this trailer was a whirlwind affair so didn't have a chance to scale it but I did scale the last trailer and we carried 12-1300 lbs. of "stuff" on every trip....without anything in any of the tanks. Just to illustrate to OP that you will accumulate those items; I've not seen anyone that has used an RV for long that didn't have lots of items that were needed at some point and just found a home in the RV. Unlike many, we don't carry an instant pot or air fryer but for many of our friends those are must haves.

As far as nothing in the tanks; to believe you will never carry anything in them would be a mistake. I used to be in that camp as well. Well, you WILL encounter the time and place where you have to either leave water in the grey/black tanks or the fresh tank due to circumstances you encounter. It will be inevitable if you travel and see new places.

All that to just say that it is wise to use gvw of anything/everything because more than likely you will be at that point sometime due to some reason. Using a number that gives you a 10-15% cushion is even better. Ultimate goal is to keep all units below gvw and keep the individual and others safe.
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Old 05-28-2020, 09:00 AM   #19
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EVERY RV combination is different. Some have "passenger loading" that puts increased weight on the front axle, some have "trailer loading" that puts the trailer load in the rear of the RV while other floorplans put much of the weight forward of the axles. So, EVERY RV combination will require "tweaking" of the tongue weight/hitch equalizer bars to obtain the best towing configuration.

Said simply, some rigs will tow best with the tongue weight in the 10% range while other rigs will "tow horribly" at that ratio and only tow well when the tongue weight is in the 15% range. There is no way to anticipate how any specific rig will tow until it's hitched up, loaded up and actually towed on the highway at typical highway speeds.

That's why there's a "typical tongue weight range of 10-15%. Then there's the "trailer weight" that "might be towed home at close to shipping weight" but in actual use might be anywhere from that weight to GVW. So, if someone "calculates the worst case scenario" then one is virtually guaranteed to be "within those figures....

So, calculate the min/max tongue weights, min/max trailer weights, min/max truck payload rates and then compare the min/max in each category to see if the "factory limits fall within the min/max"...

As an example, if the trailer GVW is 7000 pounds, figure the tongue weight to range in the 700-1050 range. NEVER assume that the trailer will "tow optimally at 10% so the tongue weight will never be above 700 pounds. That's not going to happen in "the real world of towing"....

In the example of a trailer with a 7000 pound GVW, I'd calculate the "worst case" at 1050 pounds + 125 for the hitch, which means a potential for 1175 pounds of "trailer weight" on the truck receiver. Then there's "what's in the truck" in the way of people, equipment added since the truck was first sold, cargo in the bed and other cargo in the cab.

I suppose my "NEVER" is to never assume that the trailer will be towed locally, we don't need water, will always travel with only a couple hundred pounds of camping equipment/trailer goodies and will always be able to tow on level ground with the holding tanks empty, in good weather with light traffic, no crosswinds and no obstacles in or around where we tow.

In other words, prepare for the "worst case" and you'll always have a margin of safety for yourself, those who travel with you and those who you must protect on the highway (other's using the same highway system)….
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Old 05-28-2020, 03:22 PM   #20
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Excellent point. I just do not understand how some people rationalize these decisions. It's just not logical. Driving a rig so close to the limits and rationalizing that "we only go short distances" or "we won't take water or use the holding tanks" is like saying "I don't need a fire extinguisher in my kitchen because I don't plan on setting my house on fire."

Maybe you should remove the truck and trailer spare tires, after all I'm sure your not planning on having a flat. If you are going to "eat out" and not carry food then why carry the stove/oven? Yank that out to lighten the load as well. Not trying to be a smart A$$ but attempting to give a logical approach to this. The one constant on the plant is gravity so 20 lbs. of water = 20 lbs. of anything else and it is cumulative. I don't know the OP, maybe you do have the self control not to load it up with a an accumulation of stuff but if that's true I dare say you are the exception.
Most of the comments have been helpful and encouraging. I had respected your opinion until the point you treat me like an idiot. To be a jerk and suggest to remove a spare or even the context you suggested it in. I don’t have a fire extinguisher in my kitchen.

You know you say that but we joke a lot about not having a kitchen. We use it so little. We don’t fix elaborate meals and do eat out a lot.

You would think that I’m trying to be reasonable and gather information before making a bad decision. I am never going to buy something that will be too much to tow.
I mean one post above suggested to go used since I’ll want to upgrade. With the numbers I have there isn’t much to upgrade to.

You my be a know it all since you may have been doing this for years. I’m just wanting to start and so far all you’ve made me want to do is not do this because of people like you. If you act this same way in a camp ground then I doubt anyone would want to be around you.

The reason I came here was to see if it was possible and get information from those that have gone before.
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