TV Spark Plugs

jkohler70 · 03-19-2017, 10:49 AM

The spark plugs are due in my TV, and they're the iridium laser type. O'Reilly's wanted almost $20 each, and Amazon was $12.50. I need 8, and I'm a cheap bastard, so I checked AliExpress. I bought 8 for $44 with free shipping.
If you haven't checked out the site, it's interesting. Since half of everything is made in China, you can buy direct through AliExpress. Some electronics are re-branded from the factory that makes the branded product.
The only catch is it can take awhile to get your order. My plugs aren't scheduled to arrive until next month. For that price, I can wait!

**chuckster57** · 03-19-2017, 11:16 AM

I just hope that the quality is the same. Been wrenching for 40+ yrs and some of my customers ask about "cheap" parts. I tell them go ahead and buy them, but if/when they break I will have to charge you again for replacement.

Spark plugs are one thing I won't skimp on. With a gas engine, if it fouls out, your in trouble in a hurry and I've seen too many cheapo plugs go bad quickly. Again I hope that's NOT the case with you.

Outback 325BH · 03-19-2017, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I just hope that the quality is the same. Been wrenching for 40+ yrs and some of my customers ask about "cheap" parts. I tell them go ahead and buy them, but if/when they break I will have to charge you again for replacement.

Spark plugs are one thing I won't skimp on. With a gas engine, if it fouls out, your in trouble in a hurry and I've seen too many cheapo plugs go bad quickly. Again I hope that's NOT the case with you.

I agree. In addition, I buy spark plugs locally so I can inspect them and the packaging for any possible damage. A plug breaking inside the combustion chamber is bad.

Considering modern engines don't require plug changes until after 100,000+ miles, paying $20 per plug (which seems high) isn't that big of a deal. In addition, the work involved in changing some plugs is significant. When completed, I don't want to do it again for a long time.

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Frank G · 03-19-2017, 11:33 AM

My 2 cents, says you need to replace the plugs (with quality replacements) and also those individual plug coils. Plus have the engine tuned to the original specks with any up-dates. This will include a thorough check of the remaining components. O2 sensors, throttle body, etc.

Good luck

**sourdough** · 03-19-2017, 11:41 AM

JMO but cheap is not the way to go when trying to tune up a vehicle. Way too many things can go wrong with "el cheapo" parts. Then again, my solution these days is to buy a new vehicle so I can save that cost

jkohler70 · 03-19-2017, 12:34 PM

The plugs I bought were the exact same NGK brand and part number. If that's not what actually arrives, I'm only out $44.

**sourdough** · 03-19-2017, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkohler70

The plugs I bought were the exact same NGK brand and part number. If that's not what actually arrives, I'm only out $44.

If you're getting the exact same product at a substantial savings but just have to wait longer then I would say you've found a deal!

jkohler70 · 03-19-2017, 12:41 PM

I'm no dummy. I've done my own maintenance for 30 years.

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ctbruce · 03-19-2017, 05:24 PM

Sounds like it could be a deal. Make sure to post a follow up after the install and test. You could help other wrench monkeys out.

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Fuzion Impact 312
2017 3500HD Silverado LTZ

Desert185 · 03-19-2017, 06:51 PM

If NGK, you're in good shape. I only use those or Autolites.

notanlines · 03-20-2017, 04:21 AM

John, is this the number? NGK Iridium Ix Spark Plug (LFR5AIX-11) That is the appropriate number I found on NAPA and on Advance Auto Parts. Advance has them for about 8.99.

jkohler70 · 03-20-2017, 08:03 AM

No. Those are the standard iridium. They are compatible, but must be changed more frequently. The OEM plugs are the laser iridium. Part number ILFR5B11.
The standard iridium have a life of 40-50 thousand miles. The laser iridium are 80-100 thousand.

Dave W · 03-20-2017, 09:46 AM

I traded my '06 with a V10 just so I didn't go through the pain of changing them out. I do have a brand new set of 'surplus' plugs and coil boots and springs just waiting for someone since my diesel wont need them.

OEM quality or better is the only way I'll go with something like ignition parts, or for that matter, almost everything else that keeps the vehicle moving down the road. Unfortunately, even NAPA now has parts made in that large Far Eastern country known to make lesser quality for formerly great brands

Drydays · 03-20-2017, 01:05 PM

Poor people cannot afford to buy CHEEP. Pappy always said" I do not at any chance put chiny junk on my equipment.

Desert185 · 03-20-2017, 10:24 PM

Depending on how long the original plugs have been in use you might want to be careful when removing them. If they become resistant to unscrewing, tighten them 1/2-3/4 turn, or so, then unscrew them a bit farther. Walk them in and out like that until they turn easily or you could strip the threads in the aluminum head (I'm assuming an aluminum head).

Install the new ones with a dab of anti-seize so you or the next guy won't have any issues. The factory doesn't usually use anti-seize, so the initial change after 50,000-100,000 miles can create problems.

Also, don't assume the plugs are preset. Check the gap with a plug gauge.

jkohler70 · 03-21-2017, 04:33 AM

NGK does not recommend anti-seize. From their site:

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

Desert185 · 03-22-2017, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkohler70

NGK does not recommend anti-seize. From their site:

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

Nice to know.

I have removed plugs after 60,000-100,000 miles that have had seizing issues during the removal process (they weren't NGK). Other plugs may not have that plating. Worth the research...

Edit: My RZR manual specifies an NGK plug, but there is no mention of not using anti-seize. When were they going to tell us of this change, I wonder?

Desert185 · 03-22-2017, 09:56 AM

I called NGK about this. If the plugs have a silver plating, then they recommend no anti-seize be used. Some other plug companies now have the same recommendation with similar plating.

They also mention removing the plugs before leaving the plugs installed for a long period of time.

The interaction between aluminum heads and steel spark plugs leads to seizing when installed for the long change intervals now recommended by the vehicle manufacturers...regardless of plug thread coating.

Personally, I will continue to use a limited amount of anti-seize, as I have always done since the early 60's. This, particularly on vehicles that recommend long interval plug changes. I tend to keep vehicles for a long time, so I do this for my benefit and the benefit of my cylinder head plug threads. If I sell the vehicle, the next guy will be glad I used anti-seize. I have a vehicle that recommends religious use of anti-seize every time the plugs are removed and replaced.

If one is concerned about over torqued spark plugs, one can reduce the torque by 20%. I am working on 60 years of changing my own plugs with the use of anti-seize with zero consequences. I realize that can not be considered a valid reason to use anti-seize, so...FWIW, YMMV, proceed at your own risk, etc.

Dave W · 03-22-2017, 11:51 AM

Ford recommends using a nickel based antisieze on their aluminum head modular engines via a TSB then torque to a new value which is a few lb ft less then the original figure(forgot to look at my copy). If the existing plugs are the long thread, extended reach style, that, IMHO is cause for extra care. If the plugs tend to bind coming out, some Aero-Kroil or heavy duty carb cleaner squirted along the loosed plug will usually dissolve any carbon build up. You do need to purge the engine by cranking it over a few revolutions with the plugs out to rid the cylinders of that cleaner-carbon crud or risk hydraulic lockup and possibly a bent valve or worse, a destroyed engine. This all is more or less paraphrased from the Ford TSB with my edit. For whatever vehicle you have, this should work well. As far as NGK plugs - I still like antisieze but like my diesel even better

Desert185 · 03-22-2017, 05:26 PM

Like I've mentioned before, Autolite or NGK plugs are my favorites. Won't go into the why's and the details unless asked. Ran across this...

https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-spark-pl...h-nBoCO8zw_wcB

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