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Old 01-10-2013, 08:28 AM   #1
kfcflores
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Tounge Weight?????

Here is my question guys? Will this work to find out my tounge weight?

I weighed my vehicle without trailer the other day, loaded with wife, kids, full tank of gas and simulated gear in the back.

Saturday I am going to hook up trailer and go weigh entire package. I use a wd setup. If i take numbers from this weigh and subtract original one will that give me tounge weight.

Here's my set up.
TV 2007 chevy tahoe ltz 5.3, 3.73
TT 2006 keystone outback 27rsds

My TV weights were as follows
front axle 2600
rear axle 2780
total 5380

I have gotten conflicting spec reports on how much the actual trailer weighs, see anywhere from 5400-5700 dry with 7200 max

So when I weigh the whole setup together and say my rear axle is now 3580, would that make my tounge weight 800. I'm just throwing that number out there, have no idea what it will be.

I do know I need to stay below my GAWR which is 4100 and total package weight which is 13000.

The trailer only has bare supplies in it right now and little water in fresh tank. I wan't to get first weight and then see what I have to work with.

Any experience on how much poundage I will put in a trailer like this. Trying to stay light and won't be towing with much water.

Thanks for all your help, been great guys.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:53 AM   #2
davidjsimons
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I believe you will need to weigh without the WDH being actually set up to get the true tongue weight. Otherwise, weight will be distributed.


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Old 01-10-2013, 09:26 AM   #3
SteveC7010
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For real tongue weight accuracy, this handy-dandy item will fit the bill:

http://www.sherline.com/lm.htm



If you call around, you may find a trailer shop or RV shop that has one.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:27 AM   #4
Laredo291OH
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You might also try this http://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailertowtips.aspx Much cheaper than the sherline and seems pretty accurate.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:48 PM   #5
KanTC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfcflores View Post
I have gotten conflicting spec reports on how much the actual trailer weighs, see anywhere from 5400-5700 dry with 7200 max
The difference in *dry weight* specs is likely due to the following:

1) The actual manufacture date -- for example: a 2006 model built in Nov 2005 might be slightly lighter/heavier
(dry weight) than the same model built in Mar 2006. If any of the building materials or components change, the
actual dry weights listed may vary from the previous/later printed literature.

2) The dry weight (aka: shipping weight or unloaded vehicle weight) as listed by the manufacturer is typically
*an average* weight for each model #, as built with 'only' standard features. If more standard features are added,
the next printed brochure will be different... as with #1 above.

Also keep in mind that the listed dry weight DOES NOT include the weight of any factory/dealer installed options.
The trailer you buy may not be an exact match to standard model in the brochure.

Example: Trailer X weighs 5000 lbs (shipping/dry weight, as listed). Trailer X is ordered with several factory
options, and those options total 250 lbs. When delivered to the dealer, the correct dry/empty weight will now be
5,250 lbs. The dry/empty tongue or hitch weight may also vary slightly due to the added options.

All that said - don't depend too heavily on any manufacturer's literature... generally speaking, their listed weights
are fairly close to correct, but (obviously) cannot be written in stone due to build variations, etc, etc.

Here's another thread about a 2006 Outback 27RSDS
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2265

Hope this helps! Terri, the Chevy co-pilot
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:02 PM   #6
f6bits
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Does it really matter? You already have the truck and the trailer.

What matters is if you're within your limits. Once hooked up, weigh each axle of the truck to make sure you're within GAWR and GVWR. And weigh the trailer axles. That should give you some feel as to how balanced your load is.

As others said, without WDH, you'll know for sure what the tongue weight is. With WDH, that weight will be spread across your truck's front and rear axles, as well back onto the trailer axles.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:29 PM   #7
kfcflores
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I guess that's what I'm asking? Does it really matter. If my load limits are good on axles and overall weights while hooked up with wd do I really need to know tongue weight
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:51 PM   #8
chuck&gail
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IMHO yes you need to know. Experimentation has shown that safe control, as well as optimum sway control, is to be had between 13 and 15% tongue weight.

It is easy. Go to scales with TV and TT as full as when camping, and hooked up. Drive on scales with ONLY TV front axle and get weight. Now pull forward and add TV rear axle on scale for weight.

Now extend tongue jack and unhook bars and coupler off ball. Note TV loaded unhooked weight. Now drop coupler on ball, no bars on. Increase in TV weight is actual tongue weight.

Ok, hook everything back up, then get weights on TT axles (one axle at a time).

Note you have everything you need now, except individual wheel weights, but that is another issue completely.

Be sure to verify TV rear GAWR is ok, usually SUV's need more washers in the Equalizer head than pickups.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:14 PM   #9
kfcflores
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Chuck
The scale I go to is a long truck scale with three well marked pads. If I want to get tongue weight can't I just weigh with everything hooked up and then detach wd and weigh again and deduct. The pads weigh drive axle, rear axle, trailer weight and total weight and then prints on receipt. I think I got it now guys. Thanks for all advice. I will post results later this weekend. And 13-15% is what I'm shooting for right?
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:24 PM   #10
f6bits
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15% will handle better than 10%. So, yes, closer to 15% is better.
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