Water Pressure Issue

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 02:50 AM

Good morning,. Been full time living our Fuzion 420 for 3 years now. We have been parked at the same location for some time. I've noticed that in the last few months the water pressure has deteriorated.
Any faucet or tub, I can turn on and the stream starts out very strong. But within seconds it goes down to weak. Hot or cold side. And even with the handle on full blast. If I turn it off for a few seconds and then back on, I resume good pressure and then the same....turns to weak within seconds.
The shower head was so bad the other morning, that the sprayer only had about half the jets spraying while the head was attached to the holder at the angle it usually sits.
The kitchen faucet has a button to use the spray function. But the incoming pressure is so weak that it won't stay on spray unless you keep pressing the button.
And it seems our hot water doesn't get to the faucets quite as fast either. Sounds strange but hot water when on full hookups was pretty much instant at any faucet.
One day our City water was turned off at the main for some repairs the park was doing at other sites. We unhooked and turned on our water pump to use the onboard water. The pressure was good and stayed consistent.

At the spickot, I have a short hose which is new. I have a brass 90* and then a y-splitter with one-off levers.
One side I have a heavy duty water hose for general use. This side, I have not noticed any leaks and it has great pressure. My nozzle on that side has multiple spray patterns and they are all very strong.
Other side I have a short hose that went to a Camco Evo water filter on the stand. Then I used to have a Camco blue tube filter but have since swapped that for the green ECO filter. I also replaced the Evo filter for a different brand that's a lighter media. Using the lighter media as a prefilter and the green tube as the main filter.
Then I have a 50' white hose that goes to a brass 90* at the wetbox.
I will say that my 50' hose is the larger one and the 2 shorter hoses I got at the filters are the smaller size.... because at the time I needed the short hoses, that's all I could find locally.

The filters, hoses and y-adapter setup I have had on long before I had a water pressure drop issue.
I believe the issue is beyond the wetbox. Just need to know where to begin!

Thanks!

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 02:54 AM

Oh, I forgot to mention....we've had a Valterra regulator, non-adjustable and with-gauge since day 1 on the RV hose side.

I replaced it 3 months ago with a Camco one....same, non-adjustable and with gauge. Gauge stays in the middle green range.

**JRTJH** · 05-27-2020, 05:04 AM

I'd guess from your description, this is a recently developed problem? If so, the only "new or recent change" is the Camco restrictor/regulator.

It sounds like you have two problems. First is a "city water pressure problem" likely caused by the Camco restrictor/regulator and the second is a "obstruction problem" likely caused by calcium (or other substance) buildup in the lines.

First, disconnect your water line at the city water connection on the side of the trailer. Turn on the campground faucet and verify that you have constant pressure. Likely you will see a "good initial stream followed by a drop in volume/pressure" If so, you can conclude that, at least, a part of your problem is the Camco restrictor/regulator.

Second, remove and clean all of the aerator screens that are screwed into the faucet outlets on all of your faucets. Pay special attention to the small holes in the white plastic part. As for the shower head, you may be able to clean the holes with a toothpick and remove most of the buildup.

I have had some luck using CLR (calcium/lime remover) that is located in the cleaning solutions section of WalMart and most hardware stores. Remove the shower head, place it in a bowl with the holes on the bottom and pour the CLR into the showerhead. It will "eat away" the calcium in the holes and clear the obstructions in the holes. It may, however, also "eat away" at the chrome finish and bleach the plastic parts, so you run the risk of a "cosmetically ruined" shower head.

ADDED: Has the city water department or the campground maintenance crew been doing any "water line cleanup" recently? Every water department does a "flush of fire hydrants" annually and that "causes a high volume flush" of the city water lines, breaking away any buildup in the underground lines. All of that "stuff" has to go somewhere, and usually it goes to the filters and regulator/restrictors like the ones you have on your system. So it may be that the filters are partially plugged, and the "larger 50' water hose" is acting like an accumulator, providing good pressure at first, followed by low pressure from the restricted filters. If the campground or city has been "working in the area recently" it may just be that your filters that are normally good for 2 months are clogged after a week.

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 05:08 AM

My next move was to first try to disconnect the water hose at the RV and put a garden sprayer on it. Just like you said JRTJH.
That way I can eliminate the regulator and filters to start.

Appreciate it

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 05:10 AM

Did CLR already a few months ago as part of my general maintenance plan. So those should be good.
Appreciate the suggestion tho

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 05:15 AM

Can I run CLR thru the water hose to 'clean-out' the entire RV water lines?

I know on a site built home with a well and tank, once a year they recommend a cup of bleach to be run into the tank and thru the lines. But that's PVC pipe not PEX hose

**flybouy** · 05-27-2020, 05:31 AM

As for the CLR read the label. If it says not to drink it then no. CLR typically takes a soaking in the stuff to work, not a diluted passing by. The dilluted bleach is to kill bacteria, not remove scale.

I'd start out this way, you have a second hose so swap hoses temporarily and see if the issue follows the hose. If the issue remains on the second hose, then it's an issue in the camper. Check the screen on the camper water connection and follow it down the line. My guess is it's one of the filters or "regulators". If the pressure regulator is non-adjustable then it's really just a restrictor. I would suggest spending the money on a good, adjustable regulator.

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

As for the CLR read the label. If it says not to drink it then no. CLR typically takes a soaking in the stuff to work, not a diluted passing by. The dilluted bleach is to kill bacteria, not remove scale.

I'd start out this way, you have a second hose so swap hoses temporarily and see if the issue follows the hose. If the issue remains on the second hose, then it's an issue in the camper. Check the screen on the camper water connection and follow it down the line. My guess is it's one of the filters or "regulators". If the pressure regulator is non-adjustable then it's really just a restrictor. I would suggest spending the money on a good, adjustable regulator.

Cool. Yea I plan on using the sprayer on the fresh hose since the garden hose seems strong. But like you said, swap the hose temporary would work too. I'll try that!
Also was going to bypass my filters and regulator to see if that was a solution.

At the local RV supply and Walmart, the non-adjustable with gauge was their best regulator. I wanted another Valterra with adjustment but it wasn't available at the time. May just order it. Not trying to cheap out for sure. My old one the gauge was unreadable due to the sun faded face.

And as for the bleach, CLR. I would use and then flush the lines for 10min minimum. So safety is always a priority 😉 .
But I see your CLR point in that it works best sitting for a while to break down the sediment.

On a side note, I replaced the Anode Rod in January. Flushed the hot tank out. Had sediment but not really bad at all. Calcium deposit mostly in small peices. I used to keep the filter at the RV but moved it to the spickot last year to keep my hose clean. Again, before I did that there was calcium deposited inside the hose. Hose was also replaced at that time

Big 417 · 05-27-2020, 05:49 AM

Hmm, if all the faucets have better pressure after being off for a minute, it would point to a low pressure from your source. It will pressure up when sitting, but quickly loose that stored pressure once opened. Your source may appear to have good pressure, but maybe that's just volume your seeing there.

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big 417

Hmm, if all the faucets have better pressure after being off for a minute, it would point to a low pressure from your source. It will pressure up when sitting, but quickly loose that stored pressure once opened. Your source may appear to have good pressure, but maybe that's just volume your seeing there.

Yeah. My outside garden hose which y's off the same spickot....minus regulator and filter....holds steady pressure thru out the time your spraying without any degrading output.
So therefore my issue isn't park water pressure but something inline to or at the RV.

Just curious if there is anything inside the RV to check. PRV, regulator inside, etc.

Appreciate it

Big 417 · 05-27-2020, 05:58 AM

The only thing in the rv I could think of would be the diverter to fill your fresh tank. Maybe try swinging that a few times while under pressure. Other than that I believe it's just a straight shot to waterlines. And it's not like they're small lines either.

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big 417

The only thing in the rv I could think of would be the diverter to fill your fresh tank. Maybe try swinging that a few times while under pressure. Other than that I believe it's just a straight shot to waterlines. And it's not like they're small lines either.

Cool, I will try that.
Also maybe the bypass valve for hot water bypass?
Behind the panel is a mind-blowing maze of PEX lines and fittings lol.
I'd have to draw or take a pic of the front side to refer to in reverse on the back side to know what goes where. Lol.

Big 417 · 05-27-2020, 06:07 AM

One other idea, do you have neighbors? Have you asked if they are experiencing the same issues? If not is there an opportunity to run your hose to their water source and see if that is any different?

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big 417

One other idea, do you have neighbors? Have you asked if they are experiencing the same issues? If not is there an opportunity to run your hose to their water source and see if that is any different?

Cool, I have one neighbor and one vacant spot

**JRTJH** · 05-27-2020, 06:32 AM

If you have a "Y" at the campground faucet AND the garden hose does not have the pressure drop, then it's not the campground water system.

I would clean all the aerators, change out the filter elements and if the CLR doesn't clear the shower head, buy a new shower head. My "best guess" is that you've got either a bad regulator/restrictor (remove it if the water pressure isn't over 50 PSI or so, see if the pressure remains constant inside. If so, it's the regulator, if not, it's the filter elements.

There is nothing in your RV that would "allow full pressure momentarily, then start reducing pressure to a "dribble". The symptoms lead to a "restricted input in the supply line and that large hose "acting as an accumulator".

**flybouy** · 05-27-2020, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big 417

The only thing in the rv I could think of would be the diverter to fill your fresh tank. Maybe try swinging that a few times while under pressure. Other than that I believe it's just a straight shot to waterlines. And it's not like they're small lines either.

I have read numerous posts where people have blown out the o rings on the valve by doing just that. They start getting water in the fresh water tank when it's set to city water because the O ring is out of place and allows water to flow in the tank when it shouldn't.

mikz86ta · 05-27-2020, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If you have a "Y" at the campground faucet AND the garden hose does not have the pressure drop, then it's not the campground water system.

I would clean all the aerators, change out the filter elements and if the CLR doesn't clear the shower head, buy a new shower head. My "best guess" is that you've got either a bad regulator/restrictor (remove it if the water pressure isn't over 50 PSI or so, see if the pressure remains constant inside. If so, it's the regulator, if not, it's the filter elements.

There is nothing in your RV that would "allow full pressure momentarily, then start reducing pressure to a "dribble". The symptoms lead to a "restricted input in the supply line and that large hose "acting as an accumulator".

Gotcha.
Been raining really hard last few days....horrible Memorial Day weekend here. So have not had the chance to do this stuff yet.

Big 417 · 05-27-2020, 08:00 AM

That's kind of what I was getting at with the hose. Lots of water coming out doesn't necessarily mean good pressure.

MerlinB · 05-27-2020, 12:14 PM

Check the inlet screen in the city water connection on your RV. You may have one at the inlet of your pressure regulator also.

mikz86ta · 05-29-2020, 09:36 AM

So, in between storms a few days ago I was able to determine that the pressure regulator is faulty.
The Camco with gauge non-adjustable model. The pressure on the gauge is at the lower green area and if you turn any faucet on it drops middle yellow. Tap the regulator with my finger and it jumps up a bit. I took it off for inspection but there was very little deposits. I tapped it a few times. Put back on and the initial pressure was better inside the RV but not at normal capacity. Ran straight hose past filters to RV no regulator and it was perfect inside RV. Ran past regulator and thru filters and still perfect inside RV. Put regulator back in, low pressure but sufficient to keep the spray button ON for the kitchen faucet. Ran like that the rest of the evening only to find it got weak again. So I'm going to buy a new regulator at this point.

The inside of the Camco regulator seems like a janky design. Nothing more than a brass block to reduce flow. I don't recall how my Valterra one looked inside

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