Cougar: earlier 2020 26RKS or updated 2020 26RKS

[dremcomtru]

Hi, New Member seeking thoughts/guidance.

Hubby and I will be buying a 2020 Cougar 26RKS. In searching all states there aren't many around and we're willing to drive if the savings is decent.
We will park and somewhat live in it on our property in California and also take it out exploring. Hoping later we can do some boondocking.

We got a price to order the updated 2020 from Haylett in Michigan. (love Josh The RV Nerd's youtube channel) that so far is $6K less than the California quotes...still waiting on another quote.

Our tow vehicle is 2015 Ford F-150 3.5L eco boost, 3.31 axles, 4weel drive, super crew cab, short bed
Were about 2205 miles away. Depending on timing we could make a trip out of it, we have family in Ohio.
About what should I figure for gas per mile to determine if the drive is worth it?

I found an earlier 2020 26rks 4 hours away, in stock, about the same price as Haylett and has the options I want (storm color, fireplace, theater seats) but isn't the updated 2020.
There's minor differences in the earlier 2020 vs the updated 2020...

The updated 2020:
Theater Seat has power reclining and usb ports at each arm
Household outlets on the dinette bottom (helpful for our laptops)
Blinds are no longer honey comb but wooden like slats (easier to clean)
Different wall paper on bedroom windshield wall, (a much nicer accent)
Valance in bedroom looks nicer as does the comforter
Has the new Off The Grid (OTG) solar camping package option.


On the earlier 2020 I asked if it had the solar prep and was told: "It has the solar panel plug and play with a portable solar panel. The 26rks is priced aggressively for a quick sell, just 1 of 2 we had. The other one delivered a few days ago."

I don't see the portable as an option on Keystone's website. Perhaps the dealer added it. Now that I think about it I'm positive all the 2020's have solar prep.

This earlier 2020 rig does have electric stabilizer jacks which I would not have gotten and not sure i want.
What are your thoughts on having the electric stabilizer jacks...are they helpful? Necessary?

If we order the updated 2020, we're considering the new Cougar OTG Solar package for $1500.
Does anyone know anything about this option, if it's a decent package?
Would it be better to get the package so it's warrantied by keystone or buy something aftermarket at a later time?

So, I'm just not sure if we should jump on the earlier 2020 4 hours away (if still there we plan to go look at it in a couple days) or order an updated 2020.

Thank you for any help/insight you can provide!
Here's some links:

Earlier 2020 Cougar 26RKS
https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...ravel-trailer/

Updated 2020 Cougar 26RKS
https://www.bobhurleyrv.com/inv/2020...R5103/#mainpic

Cougar optional solar package
https://www.keystonerv.com/fifth-wheels/cougar/solar/

[Northofu1]

You might want to think about your tow vehicle. The tongue weight on that trailer is between 1,056 and 1320 lbs., that's 12 to 15% of the trailers 8800 lb GVWR. That is without a weight distribution hitch with sway control, the weight of passengers and belongings in truck.
I would check the payload listed on your truck on the tire and loading information sticker on the drivers door post. You will be at or over the max capacity of the truck.

There will be a host of comments on here about your weights.
The two big positives are that you haven't purchased the trailer yet, and you're here seeking advice.

oh ya,,, from Toronto

[hankpage]

If you have any warranty problems the 4 hour drive may make a big difference in the way you feel about the earlier model. If you can live with the differences I would go for the closest one. Hank

[Brantlyj]

For all things F150 I would head over to f150forum.com. There is a trailering sub-section that could answer your mileage questions.

Regardless of mileage if you like your relatives your knocking out two birds with one stone. Plus you can have an adventure traveling home.

[travelin texans]

Figure 8 mpg, maybe less, with that heavy of RV on that small of truck across the mountains.
As Dan mentioned you want to do some ciphering on the truck & RV weights before you go much further.
Couple bits of advice, the "dry weight" of the RV tells you nothing, all calculations from the GVWR of the RV, also the "max tow" weight of your truck is also a useless number, use the payload & tire/axle weights from the stickers of "your" truck posted on the drivers door jamb. DO NOT take your truck dealers or the RV dealers word about towing that RV with your truck, their only objective is to sell you something, do your own calculations or post the actual numbers here for useful honest help, you may not like the answers from here, but they will be from folks that have been there done that.
To be honest I'd buy close to home as you WILL need warranty work & your local dealer is not obligated to do it if you've saved a couple bucks buying across the country.
Good luck! Welcome aboard!

[dremcomtru]

Thank you all so very much for the useful information.

In regards to the payload, I thought we had it made but we did get the info from the dealers.
I've included a few pictures.

Hope this works out, we need the king bed and that's the big reason we chose the cougar. Also like their zero degree rating for our hot summers.
I don't like the next lowest model 24sabwe on sold on west coast and am hoping not to have to go down to the 22rbs. I don't think another tow vehicle would be an option.

The closest dealer is 2 hours away, so far highest price and says he'll price match if I satisfy his paperwork needs of another dealer quote.

We do have an auto and RV service place here in town that works on RV's so I thought I would be safe where ever we bought it. It's a Mom and Pop shop as we're in a small mountain town but he's worked on them for years. Would that suffice?

[Ken / Claudia]

My guess is after reading through the posts is no matter what with that TT and that truck you will not be happy due to issues and near or over the trucks abilities. I see you buying a better tow vehicle soon after pulling that trailer.
As an example check out my signature. I will not say you need a 1 ton but likely a 2/3 ton. My trailer is smaller, Keystone said 560 tongue wt. it's really 920 when I checked it at a scale. I air up my rear tires from empty wt. at 65 psi to 80 psi to handle the load. Those tires listed on the wt. sticker cannot get anywhere to that level of tire pressure. My opinion not made for towing a TT.
My main point is, as it sounds like you have not owned or pulled a RV before. Do not buy any RV until you conduct a full PDI. That means you sit in every seat stand at the stove and stink, sit on the toilet, stand in shower, open every cabinet, lay on the bed. It's worth being in it several hours to see the big picture the floor plans do not cover.
I have owned 9 RVs, this last 1 we still spend 2-3 hours just looking over everything. Made a list of missing, broken stuff that needed to be written up to fix before sale.
Go back through some posts on here about new buyers who liked the floor plan and after the 1st use, hate xx and xx and xx. If you travel to buy it along ways away. Best to plan on 1 or 2 nights camping in it at a nearby place 1st. You will find more stuff you did not think about that might and likely need fixed. You will have questions about how somethings work because you cannot figure them out. This site is great for asking questions to help get though some of those things.
I am trying to get you to a point that after you spend your hard earned money, you do not have buyers remorse. And have a safe fun RV adventure.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by dremcomtru

We do have an auto and RV service place here in town that works on RV's so I thought I would be safe where ever we bought it. It's a Mom and Pop shop as we're in a small mountain town but he's worked on them for years. Would that suffice?

Sure, if all you want is to get work done and pay for it. If you want work done under warranty and want Keystone to pay for it, that's probably never going to happen. And trust me, with Keystone's world-famous QC, you're going to be bringing your rig back for warranty work, typically several times. (Our rig had the known bad Dometic HVAC gateway, a fouled furnace sail switch, a spare tire that couldn't be dismounted, a bad range fan motor, and probably other stuff I forgot... and of course we didn't find these all at once either.)

Count me as one of those people who started out with an F-150 Ecoboost that would "tow 9,000 lbs." and bought a 26' Cougar "half-ton towable" with max weight 8,800 (virtually the same model as yours, except a different floorplan). Sounds cut and dry, right?

But when I worked the actual payload numbers (I highly recommend this interactive worksheet) I discovered I was severely over tow capacity. We ended up having to upgrade to an F-250 three months ago, an unexpected major expense. Even now we are not 100% golden on our numbers as weighed (instead of the recommended 20% extra capacity margin we have 16%, which we're not going to stress over).

Believe me when I say that both the tow vehicle dealer and the trailer dealer tell big porky pies about what can haul what, in order to move their iron.

[flybouy]

In my opinion it's too much trailer for your truck.
Empty wt. of camper is NEVER realized after it leaves the factory as that number doesn't include battery, propane, or anything else that you pack into it.
The real number? Well the gross is 10K. Take 12% and you have 1,200 lb tongue wt., i.e. 1,200 lb of wt the truck will have to support. Add another 100 lb for the weight distributing hitch. Now Your at 1,350 lb that comes off your 1903 load capacity in your pic. So how much will the stuff you put in the truck weight? Fuel? People? Pets? Food? Tools? Floor mats? (anything that did not come from the factory that you add including a map in glove box comes off that factory combine weight capacity) Can you fit all that in under 553 lb.? 39 gal fuel tank weights 288 lbs. So that leaves 245 lbs. for everything else.
The "Half Ton" moniker is a "model". Read the disclosures on the Keystone website.
"*Throughout the year, Keystone RV may modify model features, floor plans, and specifications. Website data typically reflects the most recent production run, however, any or all of these items are subject to change without notice. Please check with your dealer to for the details specific to the unit you are purchasing. You should also read all labels that are on each trailer for information concerning the safe operation of the unit and its components, actual weight(s), cargo carrying capacity, and tire information.

MAKE SURE YOUR TOW VEHICLE IS COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR KEYSTONE RV. Consult with a motor vehicle manufacturer or dealer concerning the purchase and use of suitable tow vehicles for Keystone products. Owners of Keystone recreational vehicles are solely responsible for the selection and proper use of tow vehicles.

For more information about our products, click here to review the Keystone Owner’s Manual. You will find information about the safe operation and use of various systems, Keystone service warranties and how to obtain service, extended use, towing, and maintenance. Before you buy a Keystone, you might also want to review component and appliance manuals which you can find in the trailer.

**Length is defined as the distance from the centerline of hitch pin/coupler to rear bumper of trailer."

[dremcomtru]

Thank you so much for all of your continued input and support.

Oh boy, I'm feeling overwhelmed but better now in a nice way than later in a bad situation. Its nice to avoid the train wreck!

Just got off the phone with yet another dealer who says they wouldn't sell it to us if it was not a good fit.

I've got some work to do then I can get on with more research and understanding. I need to digest the numbers and information you are giving me and truly understand.

I'm so appreciative, thank you so much!

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by dremcomtru

Thank you so much for all of your continued input and support.

Oh boy, I'm feeling overwhelmed but better now in a nice way than later in a bad situation. Its nice to avoid the train wreck!

Just got off the phone with yet another dealer who says they wouldn't sell it to us if it was not a good fit.

I've got some work to do then I can get on with more research and understanding. I need to digest the numbers and information you are giving me and truly understand.

I'm so appreciative, thank you so much!

Just a suggestion... do your own research and NEVER rely on a salesperson to provide ANY information you can't verify independently. The sales staff at most RV places are not RVers and probably have never stayed in one and certainly don't understand campers or towing in general. I suggest you find someone close by, a friend, relative or even pay a mobile RV tech to come do the PDI with you. You will NEVER find things that are not right if you are not familiar with trailers.

Why is it important to find things before the final signature? You can hold the dealer's feet to the fire to get them fixed. As soon as you drive out of the lot after putting your signature on paper, a common theme here on this forum is for a new owner to be forgotten by the seller.

I won't lecture you on your tow vehicle. Don't understand your finances nor plans for camping in the future but if you are half serious about camping, the right truck is a must. I buy trucks cheap and put money into them to get them right rather than financing. My current clunker is a 2006 which I bought for $7K and have put appx. $3K into to make everything 100 percent. Some folks like the smell of new vehicles where that smell depresses me as I think about payments when I get a sniff.

[Customer1]

Earlier this summer we traveled 930 miles to buy a leftover 2018 because it had what we wanted. Years from now when you have the trailer you want, the expense of your drive will be forgotten.

I don't like electric stabilizers, they are slower than using a battery powered drill with manual stabilizers and the switch is often in an awkward position. Get auto leveling if you can, it's great.

Budget for a replacement truck, you'll want it after towing that trailer. You want a tow vehicle that is safe on the worst day in the worst conditions. A truck that gets wagged by its tail is no fun to travel in. Note the truck in my signature.

[Ken / Claudia]

I must admit being over loaded for the tow vehicle several times when much younger. I tried better shocks, better tires, better hitches and had to replace 2 different transmissions, broken ring and pinion in 1 rear end, ruined rear axle bearings and had broken u joints by towing to heavy in several different vehicles. Yeah, been there done that. Todays 1/2 tons are better than any I owned, but still 1/2 tons.

[travelin texans]

From your weights posted you have 1903 lbs of payload. To help you understand, use that number then subtract from it all people, pets, added accessories to the truck, tools/toolbox, anything in the bed of the truck, the WDH/sway control & the near 1000 lbs of tongue weight from either of the RVs you listed.
Sorry to disappoint you but you don't have enough truck for those RVs.

[flybouy]

The good folks here are sincerely trying to help. Most us us (raise my hand) have "been there done that" with the process of have a truck then buy a camper. Oops! Camper is too big buy a bigger truck. Some of us didn't learn the first time and had to "rinse and repeat" to get it. We see so many that end up on the forum AFTER the fact asking what they can do because the truck or tow vehicle sways so bad. Some people will never admit they made a mistake and tell you it's o.k. because they do it. So read, enjoy and realise that everyone has different experiences, expectations, knowledge and opinions.
You are taking the right step by doing your due diligence by reading and researching. I hope you find a good "fit" for your needs and are able to begin your adventures.

[Tbos]

I towed a lighter trailer with a Chevrolet 1500. The trailer weighed in at 7500 loaded and 32’ tip to tail. I put truck tires with higher payload on it. I was within payload of the truck, tow capacity, axle ratings and combined gross vehicle weight. I used a properly adjusted 4 point WDH equalizer hitch. The truck pulled it and stopped with no issues. HOWEVER, when the wind blew or a big truck passed you had to hang on. That big sail in the shape of a box on wheels would shake that truck.

My point is you can be within all the limits and it might still not be a pleasure to drive. Find out if a local dealer will let you take a similar trailer for a test drive. Maybe rent one for the weekend and see how you feel towing. If you are like most of us you will upgrade tow vehicle and RV at sometime. I now own a dually and a 5th wheel. FYI, the dually never flinched in the wind or when passed towing the previously mentioned trailer. Good luck in you decision. You are doing the right thing by researching.

[slow]

The owner’s manual for your truck provides a good explanation of payload and you will find that is well aligned with the advice the forum members are providing. Ignore everything a salesperson tells you.

[flybouy]

Make sure that salesman doesn't look you in the eye, his nose may knock you out as fast as it's growing.

[dremcomtru]

Thank you all again for your support... I had a feeling he was trying to take me...shame on him! And what I didn't add to my post is this that he said:
"As that being said please be careful of what information you get out of RV forums... there's a lot of bad information out there."

I certainly have more trust and respect for all of you who have been there and done that. It angers me of dishonesty and down right lying.

I was up late last night learning the lingo and am getting a little better but it will take some time to get it down. I'm thankful for the new calculator sheet provided (thank you) as the other two I'd been trying to use were a bit tough.

I'm not finding all the numbers on the stickers and even pulled speck specific info to my VIN and it's not all there either. I'll hang out on the F-150 forum a little more as earlier recommended.

This will be a process and the good thing is thanks to all of you I'm learning as I go and I didn't make a 40K mistake.

I'm leaving the Cougar line for now. We'll get something smaller...I just want to get out there, it's always been my dream!

Thank you all again for your help and support!

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by dremcomtru

... And what I didn't add to my post is this that he said:
"As that being said please be careful of what information you get out of RV forums... there's a lot of bad information out there." ...

He is correct, there is "a lot of bad information out there." Some of it is on this forum just as it is on any other forum... You can read through the "good advice in 100 posts" and then "destroy all the good with one bad post" that says, "Oh don't worry, you'll be OK, I've been doing it for the past 10 years and never had any problems"........ (this is BAD advice and you can find it on this forum if you look, so he's right in saying that, just not used to "make his point")

So, even with this forum, consider not only the good, but also the bad (and the source)....