Install new vent/fan in main room, avoid Solar wires

[JohnnyB1966]

In our 2023 Cougar 24SABWE, there is about a 20" space on the roof between the solar panels and the air conditioner. We want to drill a 14" hole in that space and install a new Fantastic Vent Roof Fan (we will have to offset the fan to the left a little because there is a speaker right there). The solar panel wires dive right into the roof just forward of the solar panels.

My question:

Do the solar panel wires get routed off immediately to the left and then forward to the Victron solar controller in the front left of the passthrough? I hope so, because if they go directly forward, cutting a hole between the panels and the air conditioner would run right into them. Does anyone know how those wires run in the roof?

[chuckster57]

If there isn’t a fan or vent installed already, I would advise against drilling through the roof. There is 12V and 120V wiring along with possibly coax cable, speaker wire and thermostat wires.

If there isn’t a vent in place, you’re looking at cutting a 14X14 inch hole and framing it in.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If there isn’t a fan or vent installed already, I would advise against drilling through the roof. There is 12V and 120V wiring along with possibly coax cable, speaker wire and thermostat wires.

If there isn’t a vent in place, you’re looking at cutting a 14X14 inch hole and framing it in.

And that doesn't include the roof structure, rafters, wall bracing (some of which provides necessary rigidity to keep the trailer walls from twisting and collapsing during towing) and the air conditioning ductwork that's "up there".....

[sourdough]

I wouldn't think of it. I can only imagine the can of worms that will open going forward; unplanned stress in places not meant for stress; twisted/warping of the roof; detachment of the roofing material....the list goes on. Lots of mods to make on an RV but cutting out structural support on an already weak structure is just a bad idea IMO.

[Texas Steve]

To the OP, if your looking to exhaust cooking fumes, why not use your vent fan over the stove to move air. Make sure the flapper on the exterior of the trailer is unlatched to let the air blow out. They are not a Fantastic Fan, but they will vent moisture and fumes from cooking.

[TXiceman]

I strongly advise against cutting holes in the roof. You have to consider the placement of roof trusses and A/C ducts in addition to wires on the ceiling. Use an existing vent opening.

Ken

[flybouy]

Among all the concerns expressed about cutting a hole here's one more. Typically trailers have very limited space above the ceiling. The unit we have is listed as 3.5" above the ceiling so for my bear paw hands there's no way I could properly frame out a hole in the ceiling. JMHO

[SargeW]

The roof structure is a concern. I purchased my trailer with the prewire for a second AC unit, which I had the dealer install prior to delivery. When I investigated later (which I always inspect work done by someone else) I noted when I pulled off the AC shroud that there was a roof truss running right next to the opening for the vent hole.

Now vent fans are WAY lighter than a 13500 BTU AC unit, so it's not so much an issue of weight, but you will still need to avoid any trusses in the roof. And Keystone will offer NO INFORMATION at all about the build of these rigs.

And even if you did go forward with the new vent, it will still require 12 volt power to run it. You could use a Bluetooth remote operated fan to avoid the necessity of running a wall switch. I switched out the vent fan in my bathroom for a remote model because the ceiling in my model trailer is arched up in the center and the DW couldn't reach it to turn it on!