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Old 06-16-2017, 09:24 AM   #21
twvette
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Seems the suspicion of the fill valve leaking is indeed my problem from the input, so will be good if bypass it or have dealer replace it. Thanks everyone ...
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:52 AM   #22
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Thanks for keeping us informed !

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Old 06-16-2017, 10:04 AM   #23
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We just did a Grand designs Momentum: 3 fresh tanks
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Old 06-16-2017, 10:07 AM   #24
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We just did a Grand designs Momentum: 3 fresh tanks
just curious, one gauge? what was total capacity?
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Old 06-16-2017, 12:06 PM   #25
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Yes one gauge, IIRC it was like 140 Gal.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:19 PM   #26
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I am a dry camper but recently had first opportunity to connected to city water at RV park. All appeared good but after about 4 hours was told I was spewing water. It was coming out the small vent port next to the water gravity port behind the separate small door. Initially thought I had connected to wrong port in the confusing water panel or had a valve the wrong way. After messing with this for way too long came to conclusion my fill valve is likely leaking so water on city side is leaking into my storage tank. Never seem water come out this breather when filling on the gravity port as it comes out a separate line under the rig by the wheels when gets full so is still a little confusing to me. Sucked to have to use water pump the one trip a year I have connections. Agree it is just my fill valve that is leaking?

As a side note I am also having an issue where my water pump cycles very briefly every hour or so. Have been looking hi and lo for any leaks since purchasing this and found nothing. Am now thinking a leaking fill valve might also be the cause of this as we noticed with the valve in the fill position the water pump turns on. Leaking valve likely the cause for this also? Dealer could not find source so basically left me to deal with this ...

Finally, anyone know what the backside of the fill valve looks like? Would like to know what to buy to bypass the fill as it makes no sense to me to fill from the city port when have gravity fill. Just don't want to deal with this again in the future.

Here are pics of my setup for reference:

(I was connected to city port ... took this when messing around and confused by the fact had a label for fresh water and another for city water which in the end fairly sure is one for the center city port)


So, hopefully you got it figured out.
For others, see the following Pic of how it "should be"
Connect the FW Hose where indicated and turn the highlighted valve to "Fill"
I was just out playing with mine, getting it ready for our Maiden Voyage.
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:22 AM   #27
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Just courious ...to gain access to the back of the of the panel as shown requires crawling thru the opposite side and removing covers? Looks to be like a un-fun project
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:39 AM   #28
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Not the funnest project but its not too bad as just a bunch of wood screws holding long plastic cover and once it is off have good working room vs. a small access door. Been back there once to adjust the water pump as it was not properly set and would not stop running. I also need to grab my subwoofer from behind there and put it in a more practical location.
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:33 PM   #29
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Can anyone confirm the plumbing size and type of those fittings on the valve? I assume all I really need to do is put a cap on the valve output to the water tank and then put a plug in that line that was removed and call it good.
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:59 PM   #30
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Most of these rigs are using 1/2" PEX lines with what I think are 1/2" threaded fittings.
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Old 07-31-2017, 05:03 PM   #31
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Finally got a chance to try and solve this problem. Below is pic of how I modified the Fill valve ...

Now for the details. As others have helped me with previously and as I learned more, most the lines are 3/8in (inside diameter) PEX tubing. This means you will need 1/2in (outside diameter of the 3/8in ID tubing) fittings to make connections with this tubing. The thread type on the valve and all other screw on fittings on mine is 1/2in pipe thread. The white screw on fittings in the picture are Flair-It style fittings where the PEX tube is pushed over a nipple and the nut compresses it down further to make it essentially a permanent attachment. Since it does not screw off like a hose would, I cut the PEX line a couple inches above the top of the Fill valve with PEX cutters as after tracing all the lines concluded it was the leg that eventually goes to the fresh water tank. I cut it a couple inches above the valve to give me room to attach the other fittings. I had turned off the water pump prior and opened a faucet to let all pressure/water out and in doing this almost no water came out so no worries. The white knurled nut on the valve is a bit more than hand tight (they use a special tool to tighten them down good) I just used a pair of channel lock opened wide enough to not crush it and it came off very easily with them. Then used a blade to slice the remaining end of the PEX tubing off the valve nipple and it tore off easily then. Used a 1/2in Flair-It cap to cap off the valve outlet which just screws on hand tight (or buy the special tool to get it tighter). The PEX line also needs be capped off as it tee's into a line that also goes to the inlet for the water pump. So, the one line going to the water tank acts as both supply and fill. I used Sharkbite brand as they just push on and lock which was really easy. This mod works as a fix for me by simply blocking off the leaking side of the valve. I don't need to fill my fresh water tank through it for dry camping anyways as I was fortunate that my rig came also with separate gravity fill port which is much more convenient and much less risk of over pressurizing your water tank. For those that do not have a gravity fill this is not an option for you and would want to just replace the valve.

So far so good, have not tested it much but at least I didn't appear to have messed anything up as water pump is back on and all is good . Final test will be to connect it back up to city water to make sure not leaking back through water pump.

Off topic, but while in here messing with plumbing I also did a water pump noise reduction kit and added in a pressurized 4 gallon tank typically used in reverse osmosis system. It will provide 30+ seconds of water before pump needs to kick on and can also reduce the noise and helps greatly to get much longer life from pump. I put it where the subwoofer use to be before relocating it too while in there to remove it LOL (three projects in one). Water pump already is at least 1/2 as noisy ... I barely hear it inside! Will do a separate post on this when all done.
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Old 07-31-2017, 05:28 PM   #32
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That is pure gold bobbecky.
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Old 08-05-2017, 06:34 AM   #33
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Hi - we just bought a Passport 2920bh and hooked up to city water for the first time. (First night camping). Checking the level indicators I noticed that the fresh water tank is full. Is this expected? I'm guessing it's a feature, but can I turn it off? And how do I drain the tank before towing?

Thanks in advance for any help!!
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Old 08-05-2017, 11:28 AM   #34
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Normally you don't want the water storage tank to fill if connected to city water. This is why there is typically a "Fill" valve that you would turn only if want to fill the tank rather than just send water into the faucets, etc. Maybe your fill valve is leaking too and caught it just in time before it overfilled your water storage tank.

The water tank drain valve is often near the entry stairs but could certainly be in different location. Its typically a valve with pull handle somewhat similar to grey/black drain valves but smaller.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:27 AM   #35
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Been a while ....

Well, we have the rig at an RV resort hooked up for several months now and my water tank has filled and spilling out my gravity fill door port again . We are not full timing it, just some weekends so has not been pressurized but probably about 20 days as we turn off the water and depressurize when leave.

Anyways, looking at the diagram above looks like only other potential source is through the Winterize valve. Would have to go backwards through the water pump. So it would have to be a bad check valve in the water pump as well as bad winterize valve, correct (I have mine to Off position)? Or, is that valve open to the water tank side when in the Off position? Just seems unlikely both would fail (well,maybe not since its RV parts, but ...)

Assuming it is a bad check valve in water pump, does this have an other adverse effects? I am about to leave for a little more than a week of dry camping and need to have it working properly.

Any chance there is something else like a pressure relief valve somewhere else that would send water to the tank, etc.?
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:13 AM   #36
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During our recent trip, while we were hooked up to city water, the FW tank began to overflow. Shut the city water off and ran several gallons of water through the system using the pump. Fixed the problem. Must have been debris/sand/mineral scale in the check valve.
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:34 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by twvette View Post
Been a while ....

Well, we have the rig at an RV resort hooked up for several months now and my water tank has filled and spilling out my gravity fill door port again . We are not full timing it, just some weekends so has not been pressurized but probably about 20 days as we turn off the water and depressurize when leave.

Anyways, looking at the diagram above looks like only other potential source is through the Winterize valve. Would have to go backwards through the water pump. So it would have to be a bad check valve in the water pump as well as bad winterize valve, correct (I have mine to Off position)? Or, is that valve open to the water tank side when in the Off position? Just seems unlikely both would fail (well,maybe not since its RV parts, but ...)

Assuming it is a bad check valve in water pump, does this have an other adverse effects? I am about to leave for a little more than a week of dry camping and need to have it working properly.

Any chance there is something else like a pressure relief valve somewhere else that would send water to the tank, etc.?

If you go back to my post #5, and in the photo near the bottom at the left, you will see a long white fitting in the blue pipe. That is a check valve with a PEX adapter on each end. The reason for it is why I drew up the diagram. We were at a rally, and a neighbor knocked on the door, said water was overflowing the exterior tank fill vent. After some thought, I figured out the check valve in the pump had failed. I was nowhere near a location to get a new pump, so into the little town hardware store where I purchased the check valve and adapters. I cut a section of the PEX out and installed the check valve with the adapters. It stopped the water leak and the pump still worked fine. I have since replaced the pump, but for a different reason.
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Old 08-18-2018, 09:39 PM   #38
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I have disconnected and switched to the pump. Will see if that might flush out some debris like jsmith mentioned.

Anyone know of a reason not to just install and leave the external check valve? My pump in general has worked fine today.

To make this stranger, I noticed my water heater is making a constant noise now when on electric. Never did this before ... it sounds like a small pump running. It is not the water pump as stays the same with the pump on or off. The noise also goes away if switch to gas and comes back immediately when switch back to electric. Any chance this electric heater circulates water and since might have a bad check valve in pump is just running constantly now or do I have yet another problem?
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:55 AM   #39
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Turn your water heater to gas, if the noise stops it's most likely the heating element. It's an easy inexpensive replacement if that's the problem.
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