Removing carpet from slides

[Liza Powell]

Has anyone here replaced the floor of their Raptor? We are considering replacing the linoleum AND the carpet in the main living area with the kind of floor that snaps together and looks like wood. There would have to be a lip between the floor of the slides and the rest of the floor because there's a difference in height. But is there any reason why this should not be done? Will it effect the operation of the slides?
Thanks

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Liza Powell

Has anyone here replaced the floor of their Raptor? We are considering replacing the linoleum AND the carpet in the main living area with the kind of floor that snaps together and looks like wood. There would have to be a lip between the floor of the slides and the rest of the floor because there's a difference in height. But is there any reason why this should not be done? Will it effect the operation of the slides?
Thanks

It is called laminate flooring. Folks have been re-doing the flooring in their TT's and 5er's with it for a long time.

I think the slide area presents a challenge. On my 5er, the carpeting of the slide extends about 6" beyond the solid floor and provides a neat transition from the trailer floor to the slide floor and bevels off any height difference. That's more than a bit of a safety issue as well. If you remove the carpeting and install laminate flooring, you create a hard edge at the lip of the slide. I don't see a way to make that a smooth, safe transition using just the laminate flooring material.

What you might consider is stopping the laminate short of the lip of the slide and then make up a long narrow piece of carpeting running the length of the slide floor to provide that smooth transition.

FWIW, this isn't a Raptor or even a Keystone specific situation, but would apply throughout the industry to any RV with one or more slides.

One other point to keep in mind is that laminate flooring is generally not fastened down. It floats on top of the sub-floor. What holds it in place in a residential installation is that it generally runs wall to wall with just 1/4" space on each side between the edge of the flooring and the walls. It if transitions to carpet or vinyl, there's usually a special piece that is fastened to the floor along that line but there is still that 1/4" gap. The gap allows the flooring to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.

It can be done, but it might not the best choice as a DIY if you've never done laminate flooring.

[bsmith0404]

Be careful which laminate you use, there is laminate out there that is basically the same thickness as linoleum, there is also laminate such as pergo that is much thicker. Their thicker may cause you problems with clearance for the slide I replaced the flooring in a previous 5er with traffic master allure from Home Depot, worked great and an easy install. As for removing the carpet from the slide, I didn’t. Lift up the edge of the carpet and look at the face of the slide and reside if you want it exposed. Some trailers have the step up on kitchen slides and finish the face of the slide with wood trim, so it’s pissible to make it look better, I just don’t know how well it would hold up in a high traffic area.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

Be careful which laminate you use, there is laminate out there that is basically the same thickness as linoleum, there is also laminate such as pergo that is much thicker. Their thicker may cause you problems with clearance for the slide I replaced the flooring in a previous 5er with traffic master allure from Home Depot, worked great and an easy install. As for removing the carpet from the slide, I didn’t. Lift up the edge of the carpet and look at the face of the slide and reside if you want it exposed. Some trailers have the step up on kitchen slides and finish the face of the slide with wood trim, so it’s pissible to make it look better, I just don’t know how well it would hold up in a high traffic area.

The Trafficmaster Allure product is a floating floor system? I installed this type product in my shop's office. It requires a space around the edge for expansion and 1/2 round to cover the gap. It also requires an underlayment (plastic-type pad) underneath. Perhaps a drop of Elmers Glue in the tongue/groove at the ends and between pieces might not be a bad idea and use the correct tool to install. This tool allows you to tap the pieces together for secure fit and are also sold at Home Depot. The obvious benefit of using this stuff is that you don't glue it to the floor underneath. It isn't hard to install either. Since there will be quite a few angled cuts, perhaps a table saw would be nice. I did a room and there were few cuts that couldn't be done while using a jig saw.

[ptooti]

Maybe look at vinyl plank??


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[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

The Trafficmaster Allure product is a floating floor system? I installed this type product in my shop's office. It requires a space around the edge for expansion and 1/2 round to cover the gap. It also requires an underlayment (plastic-type pad) underneath. Perhaps a drop of Elmers Glue in the tongue/groove at the ends and between pieces might not be a bad idea and use the correct tool to install. This tool allows you to tap the pieces together for secure fit and are also sold at Home Depot. The obvious benefit of using this stuff is that you don't glue it to the floor underneath. It isn't hard to install either. Since there will be quite a few angled cuts, perhaps a table saw would be nice. I did a room and there were few cuts that couldn't be done while using a jig saw.

The Allure is a floating floor. I used the 1/2” quarter round along the edges as well. The type I used didn’t have a tongue and groove type system, it was a vinyl product with adhesive tabs for connecting. Just requires a roller, sold at the store, to get good contact/adhesion. It can be cut with a utility knife, but corners and tough angles are easier done with a jigsaw. Because it’s a vinyl, the plastic underlayment is optional on some surfaces. I didn’t bother on a wood surface, but would put it down if going over concrete.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

The Allure is a floating floor. I used the 1/2” quarter round along the edges as well. The type I used didn’t have a tongue and groove type system, it was a vinyl product with adhesive tabs for connecting. Just requires a roller, sold at the store, to get good contact/adhesion. It can be cut with a utility knife, but corners and tough angles are easier done with a jigsaw. Because it’s a vinyl, the plastic underlayment is optional on some surfaces. I didn’t bother on a wood surface, but would put it down if going over concrete.

You are very correct. I used a floating floor system that had rigid panels. I actually used the Allure in the breezeway I put up between a stand alone laudry room built off our house and the house itself OVER some old ceramic I had installed. The ceramic tended to crack as the breezeway was pier-and beam and wasn't braced well enough where it didn't flex when you walked on it. I really didn't do anything with the underlying old tiles and the Allure conformed to the bumps and ridges but has held up well.

When you put the Allure in your camper, I am guessing that it was laid over OSB sheathing. Is this correct? If so, did any surface prep or leveling need be done other than carpet staple removal?

[Barbell]

Getting ready to replace carpet and linoleum in our Montana. I had the same question about the joint between the slide floor and the stationery floor. With the slide out, it drops down to lie flat in alignment with the stationery floor, so don't see that it will be a problem. Does anyone know what thickness of flooring is best to use. Ours looks like there is plenty of room for the 3/8 to 1/2 inch laminate flooring.