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07-22-2019, 07:45 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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07-22-2019, 07:46 PM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.
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Agree wholeheartedly
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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07-22-2019, 08:03 PM
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#23
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Looks to me as if someone stole the shore-power cord and this was the owners fix for it so he could sell the trailer.
If it were mine I would get a 30 ft. Marinco ParkPower 30 Amp, 125V cord set and Marinco 30 Amp inlet so you can remove the cord for safe keeping.
Link to inlet ... Link to 30amp cord
Hope this helps, Hank
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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07-23-2019, 04:44 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: grand rapids
Posts: 596
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you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regualar plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it
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07-23-2019, 05:03 AM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Smethport
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roscommon48
you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regular plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it
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nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.
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07-23-2019, 05:12 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1,005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roscommon48
you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regualar plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it
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Overthinking it? Trying to run a 30A camper through a 15A extension cord is a recipe for disaster. He would have to never use his air conditioner or microwave or ...
No, I think repairing the camper back to full 30A service is the minimum required.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek Champagne 38EL - "Big Bertha"
2019 GMC Sierra 3500 Denali HD 6.6L Duramax TD, CC, 4WD, DRW - "Mr. Beefy"
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07-23-2019, 05:29 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Smethport
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.
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Yeah, I'm glad we almost never camp with electric, but we have a week-long vacation coming up in august on an electric site, so would like to fix it before that. I'm pretty comfortable with electrical work in the house, but don't know too much about RVs. I'm going to see if my friend that is an electrician can look it over and help me out.
Thanks, everyone for their help.
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07-23-2019, 06:59 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Hewitt
Posts: 73
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I would also install a new inlet and a new cord.You can also get them on Amazon or EBay.Not a hard job only 3 wires.You seem to have a short length of cable from inverter so you would have easy hookup. Maybe previous owner pulled off of site hooked up. Saw it happen and guy never returned. PAYS TO DO A SECOND WALK AROUND BEFORE PULLING OUT!!!!
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07-23-2019, 07:24 AM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Hewitt
Posts: 73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredusps69
I would also install a new inlet and a new cord.You can also get them on Amazon or EBay.Not a hard job only 3 wires.You seem to have a short length of cable from inverter so you would have easy hookup. Maybe previous owner pulled off of site hooked up. Saw it happen and guy never returned. PAYS TO DO A SECOND WALK AROUND BEFORE PULLING OUT!!!!
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Ops meant to say converter
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07-23-2019, 08:23 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Can you say "redneck shore cord!"?
Bubba said "sure I can fix that there cord for ya! I do it this here way all the dadgum time!".
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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07-23-2019, 08:48 AM
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#31
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlemidget
nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.
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Here I go guessing again. What you describe sounds like the previous owner crossed the hot and the neutral when he made his make-shift repair and is causing a short to ground when the trailer's breaker is turned on.. The small piece of the original power cord should have a black, a white and a green wire of at least #10 gauge. Most likely the Chinese cord the PO used does not use the same colors or he did not connect them correctly. I feel that replacing the cord (which you will need any way) and connecting black to black, white to white and green to green will correct your problem. Along with the inlet and RV cord you will need a short length of 10/2 SJ cord to connect the inlet to the junction box available at any home supply store. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE DOING THIS PLEASE SEEK THE HELP OF AN ELECTRICIAN!!!
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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07-23-2019, 12:56 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: grand rapids
Posts: 596
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Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.
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07-23-2019, 01:49 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roscommon48
Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.
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The problem with that solution is he may want to use the RV before next winter!
If they know an electrician, or basic electrical knowledge, it could be done easily in an hour or less
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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07-23-2019, 01:50 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1,005
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not to mention for a lot less money.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek Champagne 38EL - "Big Bertha"
2019 GMC Sierra 3500 Denali HD 6.6L Duramax TD, CC, 4WD, DRW - "Mr. Beefy"
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07-23-2019, 02:03 PM
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#35
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roscommon48
Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.
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Wow! I doubt if I could find a dealer in my area that would take in an eleven year old trailer with a problem like this. If you found one the cost would make your head spin. Marked up parts and $100+ per hr rates to trouble shoot and they may get to it by Christmas if you leave it. This is based on my experience with dealers that I did not buy the trailer from.
If I were not comfortable rewiring it myself I could get a licensed electrician to come to my house promptly and know the job was done correctly. It is a simple 3 wire connection with the correct parts. Mounting the inlet is the hardest part of the job. The short piece on cable cleanly cut and left behind tells me the original 30 amp cable was stolen and scrapped by thief. Very common in storage areas and seasonal sites.
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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07-24-2019, 01:11 PM
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#36
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Smethport
Posts: 21
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Thanks everyone, I'm not going to take it into a dealer. I will rewire it myself and have my electrician friend look it over. I already ordered the Twist Lock Inlet and twist and lock cord. Thank you for all your help.
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07-25-2019, 01:23 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlemidget
Thanks everyone, I'm not going to take it into a dealer. I will rewire it myself and have my electrician friend look it over. I already ordered the Twist Lock Inlet and twist and lock cord. Thank you for all your help.
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Sounds like a good time to add a hardwired EMS to your rig and that could act as your junction box!
__________________
Mike & Barb
2015 Keystone Bullet Premier 26RBPR
2018 Cedar Creek 36CK2
2017 Chevy Silverado LT Z71
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07-25-2019, 04:12 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Norwood, CO
Posts: 685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNY Bullet
Sounds like a good time to add a hardwired EMS to your rig and that could act as your junction box!
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Totally agree. I know you do not use electric hook ups much but the EMS will protect your stuff when you do and a hard wired one is so much more convenient than a add on one. (Which is what I have) BUT they are EXPENSIVE. That said if you can absorb the cost go ahead and do it.
__________________
German Shepherd Guy
2018 Keystone 26RBPR
2014 Suburban 2500, 6L with 3.73 rear
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07-27-2019, 10:30 AM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Smethport
Posts: 21
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Have any of you done the inlet conversion? My problem is to convert the 5 " hole to the 3" inlet box. I saw some kits online, but based on searches here, they don't fix the keystones old hole, so you have to rig them up anyway. Since I already have the new inlet box, figured just easier to find a way to rig it up without buying a $90 kit that doesn't fit.
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07-27-2019, 10:56 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by German Shepherd Guy
Totally agree. I know you do not use electric hook ups much but the EMS will protect your stuff when you do and a hard wired one is so much more convenient than a add on one. (Which is what I have) BUT they are EXPENSIVE. That said if you can absorb the cost go ahead and do it.
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Sorry, but I don't think they are expensive at all when you consider the alternative of possibly having to replace your TV(s), microwave, DVD player, WH control board, A/C controls, refrigerator control board, and who knows what else might get destroyed by a severe over voltage or surge condition. It's like any other kind of insurance: you get the coverage you are willing to pay for. YMMV.
__________________
Merlin B.
U.S. Army Aviator, Retired
2016 Cougar XLite 28SGS
2007.5 Ram 3500 DRW
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