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Old 12-04-2023, 04:24 PM   #1
Bcline83
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Thermostat

Long post so forgive me. Last weekend noticed heat wasn’t blowing as hot as usual, well next morning thermostat wouldn’t do anything so I figured it was shot. Battery reads good, no breakers tripped no fuses blown. I return this weekend with new thermostat and I turn it on just to see and well the darn thing works and heat kicks on. Battery still reads 12.9 but if I kill the main breaker the panel inside says my battery is almost dead. Do I have a bad battery and that caused my thermostat to not work??
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Old 12-04-2023, 04:51 PM   #2
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Sounds like your battery is toast. Take it out, make sure the positive cable doesn't touch the frame if you leave the power on. Take the battery to an auto parts store and have it tested.
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Old 12-04-2023, 05:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcline83 View Post
Long post so forgive me. Last weekend noticed heat wasn’t blowing as hot as usual, well next morning thermostat wouldn’t do anything so I figured it was shot. Battery reads good, no breakers tripped no fuses blown. I return this weekend with new thermostat and I turn it on just to see and well the darn thing works and heat kicks on. Battery still reads 12.9 but if I kill the main breaker the panel inside says my battery is almost dead. Do I have a bad battery and that caused my thermostat to not work??
If the voltage is reading 12.9 VDC when you're plugged in and reading "almost dead" when you unplug from shore power, then it's either your battery or the converter/charger. To troubleshoot, disconnect the battery and read the battery output voltage on the terminals. If the battery voltage is 12.9, take the battery to have it load tested. That will determine if the battery is good or bad.

Then, with shore power on the trailer and the battery disconnected, measure the voltage ON THE BATTERY CABLE CONNECTORS. This test will measure the voltage output of the converter/charger. It should be 13.6 VDC. f it's less than that, you need to further troubleshoot the converter/charger.

Let us know the results of these two voltage measurements and we can go from there.

IT IS MANDATORY THAT THE BATTERY BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE BATTERY CABLES TO INDENDENTLY MEASURE BOTH THE BATTERY VOLTAGE AND TO MEASURE THE CONVERTER/CHARGER OUTPUT.
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Old 12-04-2023, 05:42 PM   #4
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Thank you, I’m hardwired into shore power so can’t unplug persay but I can kill main breaker. If it was my converter would my hot water heater still work? I’m really hoping it’s just my battery.
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Old 12-04-2023, 05:50 PM   #5
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Also have another question I had a fan plugged into an outlet and it ran for maybe 5 min and just stopped. No fuses no breakers no gfci tripped. This started about the same time the thermostat happened but I know plugs run off 120.
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Old 12-04-2023, 06:31 PM   #6
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Thank you, I’m hardwired into shore power so can’t unplug persay but I can kill main breaker. If it was my converter would my hot water heater still work? I’m really hoping it’s just my battery.
Yes, you can just turn off the main circuit breaker which is effectively the same as unplugging the trailer from shore power. Once you do that, then do the troubleshooting steps above.

As for the fan "suddenly stopping about the same time", that may be an indicator. Has that outlet started working again or is it still "dead" ???

Your profile indicates you have a 2003 Fleetwood ??? Is it a 30 amp or a 50 amp electrical system? If it's 30 amps, then we'll need to go in one direction, if it's a 50 amp system, then you may have lost one leg of your shore power, which COULD (but not positively) have caused both the converter/charger and the circuit the fan is on to both "be dead" as a result of losing that leg of your power input to the trailer if both of them are wired to that same leg....
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Old 12-04-2023, 06:41 PM   #7
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30 amp and outlet still works. It just amped down the power of that makes sense, u could still hear the fan motor humming just not turning. Unplug it wait a few min and works fine.
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Old 12-04-2023, 06:42 PM   #8
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Well fine a few min. But later that night it worked fine for well over 30 min and I just turned it off.
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Old 12-04-2023, 06:52 PM   #9
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It sounds like you may have had a "brownout" from the main power source and experienced low voltage throughout the trailer, but only noticed it on that one outlet... That's strictly a guess and I'd suspect that it is not associated with the converter/charger or battery problem...

I'd start by turning off the coach main power circuit breaker and disconnecting the battery, read the battery voltage at the battery terminals, then with it still disconnected, turn on the main power circuit breaker and read the voltage at the DISCONNECTED battery cable ends. The battery should be around 12.9VDC and the DISCONNECTED battery cables should read 13.6VDC.
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Old 12-04-2023, 06:57 PM   #10
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Will do. I plan on going down Wednesday and will check it. Thank u again
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Old 12-04-2023, 07:03 PM   #11
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It’s a 2018 battery so I’m going to replace that Wednesday regardless but I will test the cables to see if I’ve got 13.6
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Old 12-04-2023, 08:11 PM   #12
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Make sure you don't hook the battery cables up incorrectly. If you do, you will "instantly" blow the reverse polarity fuses in the converter/charger. Those two fuses in older units are the "maxi fuse" and are somewhere between difficult to find and impossible to find.... As long as you "don't touch the battery cables to ground or to each other (while the converter power is turned on) or connect them to the battery with reverse polarity (pos to the neg battery terminal and neg to the pos battery terminal) you won't risk blowing the fuses, but all it takes is a quick "spark on the wrong terminal" to blow the fuses.....

Good Luck and keep us posted on what you find.....
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Old 12-04-2023, 08:20 PM   #13
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I plan on shutting everything off while I change the battery
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Old 12-06-2023, 11:21 AM   #14
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Battery was down to 11.9. And power wires going to battery was 13.6. Everything g was disconnected and replaced battery. Heat still doesn’t seem very warm
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Old 12-06-2023, 11:28 AM   #15
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Almost as if fan is blowing but the furnace isn’t lighting. And yes I have plenty of propane
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Old 12-06-2023, 11:50 AM   #16
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Well thermostat quit again after what sounded like the furnace kept trying to light. Thoughts??
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Old 12-06-2023, 03:21 PM   #17
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When you say that you "hear the furnace trying to light"...

Here is what is supposed to happen:

1. The thermostat calls for heat
2. The furnace fan starts and if the air movement is enough to close the sail switch,
3. The control board opens the gas valve and the ignitor "sparks" three times. If there is propane and ignition (WHOOSH)
4. The flame sensor detects the propane flame and locks open the gas valve to keep the furnace running.
5. Then when the thermostat heat setting is reached, the control board closes the gas valve and the flame goes out.
6. The furnace fan continues to run for about 30-45 seconds to clear the heat from the heat exchanger, cooling down the furnace unit.
7. The furnace goes into "standby" mode until the thermostat senses the need for heat and the sequence begins again.

So, based on the above, do you mean that you hear the fan come on, then a slight delay and then "THREE DISTINCT CLICKS" from inside the furnace followed by a "WHOOSH" of ignited propane signifying a successful burner ignition" ????

If you don't hear the three clicks then you'll need to explore the cause, possibly the sail switch or a failed control board. If you do hear the three clicks but don't hear the "WHOOSH", then probably a ignitor problem or a gas control valve problem. If you hear the three clicks, the "WHOOSH" and then nothing, probably a flame sensor problem.

If you're unsure, you can set the thermostat to call for heat, go outside, to the furnace vent and listen closer. DON'T PUT YOUR FACE NEAR THE VENT !!! Sometimes there can be a "backflash" that shoots extremely hot propane gasses out of the exhaust vent. You don't want to get too close to that possibility.....

Once the furnace ignites, you'll feel warm air exiting the exhaust vent. If it is "initially warm but gets cold quickly" then you have successful ignition, but the flame sensor is not detecting the flame and is shutting down the furnace.

Let is know "Exactly what is happening and what you hear in the specific sequence you hear it, based on what I explained above"... That will help identify "where in the ignition sequence" your problem occurs....
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Old 12-06-2023, 06:39 PM   #18
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Yes fan comes on well came on and I could hear the clicks and it seemed to light but didn’t seem to blow very warm air I let it run for atleast 20 min. I then cut it off and when I went to turn it back on the thermostat wouldn’t do anything once again.
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Old 12-06-2023, 06:40 PM   #19
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When it was running yes there was warm air coming out of the exhaust
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Old 12-07-2023, 03:24 PM   #20
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Still doesn’t make sense that the thermostat quit working again.
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