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Old 11-16-2012, 06:57 PM   #1
SteveC7010
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2012 F250 Super Duty 5th Mods & Upgrades

We picked up our new tow vehicle last week. The Dodge Dually was rapidly becoming a bottomless money pit with stuff breaking faster than we could afford to fix them. The new one is a 2012 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT SuperCab with the 6.7 diesel. We picked this one because of installed options and payload/towing capacity.


The first upgrade is the addition of rails for the fifth wheel hitch. I picked a Reese mounting system that requires no drilling of the frame. It was a bit more pricey, but the savings in labor time (or cost if I subbed it out) are tremendous.

Here are the new rails and hardware:


Here is the driver's side frame to rail bracket and hardware:


Here's the bracket on the frame ready for me to drill the holes through the floor of the truck bed:


More in next post......
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:28 PM   #2
SteveC7010
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Here's a closer view of one end of the frame bracket so you can see the relationship between the bracket and the bed of the truck.


Now we measure and drill for the rails in 10 places:


The whole plan for installing the rails and brackets is to assemble everything loosely as the holes are drilled so that nothing gets out of alignment. Once all the hardware is in place, we slowly begin to tighten up the bolts a little bit at a time in a systematic pattern. The end result is that everything is pulled into proper place without any distortion, gaps, or undue stress on the metal.

And the finished product with all hardware tightened up. (The fifth wheel platform is not in the pic as it was a lot easier to lift and fit things without the extra bulk and weight.)


Some comments for those interested in doing this yourself:

First, make sure you have all the tools, etc. on hand before starting. I forgot a couple of things and had to make several trips to get them. That meant I had to set all the tools, etc. aside and drive the truck out of the garage to the storage unit and back. I also did not have the 9/16" drill bit needed so I was stuck with enlarging 3/8" holes with a tapered grinding wheel. That really slowed me down and I should have known better.

One other tool I did not have that I found myself wishing I had for this job is a round tapered alignment bar similar to what steel workers use only smaller. It would have made assembling and aligning the rails much easier.

Second, I have a Makita impact wrench with long extension and impact sockets. It made the gradual, systematic tightening of all the bolts much easier and faster. It also made it super easy to really tighten down everything. If I had to do that with a hand wrench or rachet, I don't know if I would had the strength to complete things given the contorted reaches to some of the bolt heads. If you can get your hands on one, you won't regret it.

Reese gives you a little spacer for each rail bolt. The spacer fits in the grooves of the truck bed floor and allows full tightness of each bolt from the bracket up to the rail. The spacers need to be placed fairly exactly or they'll prevent full tightening and deform the sheet metal. I got out a roll of masking tape and made little handles for each spacer so that I could move them around as needed during the tightening process. It worked really well.

It's late fall and the outside temps are in the mid-30's during the day here. While I don't have a heated garage of my own, I can use one of the bays at my volunteer ambulance service. This is definitely a project that you want to do out of the weather. It took me about 4.5 hours to complete the job so having a place where you can comfortably work matters.

For the average shade tree mechanic, this isn't a particularly challenging project, but with the need to lay on your back on the floor working with your arms extended upwards for periods of time can be exhausting, especially for someone over 60. I rate the difficulty as a 6 out of 10 for myself.

There's lots more to come and I'll add to this thread as I go along. Near future projects for the truck are:
* Remove factory AM/FM/CD and replace with aftermarket HD radio and then move the GPS and satellite radio receiver off the top of the dashboard.

* My UHF GMRS two-way radio needs to be installed.
* Emergency lighting for EMS response needs to be installed.
* DW is getting me a new cross bed tool box for Christmas. It's the low profile kind that won't interfere with the fifth wheel trailer in tight turns. That will be a bolt-in item so it is on the "to do" list.

More in next post...
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:28 PM   #3
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He££ yeah!!!! That's the truck I plan on getting next fall! Nice choice!
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:40 PM   #4
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As an EMT, I respond for ambulance calls quite a bit. The squad authorizes us to have two-way mobile radios so I have a 25 watt VHF radio to be installed in the truck. This one gets used pretty regularly so it has to be well positioned so I can read the display and reach the controls under any conditions.

This truck has the full center console with four front cup holders. They are removable and there is a lot of space under them and in the bottom of the main storage area.


I removed the front pair of cupholders and mounted the remote head for the radio to the other pair.


I still have to install the rest of the radio and run the cabling for it, but I'll do that when I do some other electrical work. I'm still trying to figure out a good place to hang the microphone on the dashboard.

When time and money permit, I am going to add a remote camera on the back of the truck and possibly a second one high on the back of the cab.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:44 PM   #5
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And just for completeness, here's a rear view of the truck:
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:53 PM   #6
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Steve -

Nice. VERY nice!

(Green with envy)
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:32 PM   #7
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That's a beautiful truck! I didn't realize that it was normal for fifth wheel hitches to need holes drilled in the frame. I could never bring myself to drill holes in the frame. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.

That being a super cab, does it have the rear doors that open backwards? I've read random posts complaining about squeaking. In twenty or so years, that's the type of setup I'd like for retirement travel.
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f6bits View Post
That's a beautiful truck! I didn't realize that it was normal for fifth wheel hitches to need holes drilled in the frame. I could never bring myself to drill holes in the frame. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.
Scott -
Having the hitch bolted to the frame is absolutely necessary to ensure that the hitch is safely and securely attached to the truck. If the hitch was only attached to the thin metal of the truck bed, it could quite easily come away from the truck when towing. It would be comparable to having your TT's hitch bolted to your bumper rather than to the frame of the TV. Not a good situation.
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:11 PM   #9
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I know the hitch needs to be bolted to the frame, but the idea of drilling holes into a truck frame makes me think you're sacrificing the integrity of the frame. Using existing holes and bolt mounts sounds like a much better idea.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f6bits View Post
That's a beautiful truck! I didn't realize that it was normal for fifth wheel hitches to need holes drilled in the frame. I could never bring myself to drill holes in the frame. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.
As Festus said, the reasons for drilling the frame are obvious, but it's also a matter of cost. Reese (and others) can produce a generic rail kit that costs significantly less than a vehicle specific (no drill) one. I chose the more expensive kit that I could install myself. The hitch shop wanted $250 to install a $110 generic kit. This one cost me $255 delivered. I bought it on Ebay and it was delivered 26 hours later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by f6bits View Post
That being a super cab, does it have the rear doors that open backwards? I've read random posts complaining about squeaking. In twenty or so years, that's the type of setup I'd like for retirement travel.
Yup, the rear doors are "suicide doors." It's standard on cab and a half trucks. Full crew cabs have all four doors opening the same way. I've had trucks with that since 1997 so I don't even notice it. Lubrication stops the squeaking if it occurs.

I am glad to be back to a SRW, short bed truck. It maneuvers better, parks easier, rides better, and is a whole bunch quieter than the Dodge.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:28 AM   #11
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Hello Steve,

Good looking TV - wish you the best of luck with it. We really love our Ford.
IMHO, the new 6.7 engine is awesome.
A note regarding drilling the frame - I was told by a Ford rep that drilling the frame could void the warranty. Don't know if that was a ploy to convince me that I should let Ford install the hitch. We also went with the Reese system and installed it ourselves.
Had to return the first set of frame plates because they did not allow for the DEF tank (parts guy read his book wrong), but with the correct plates everything bolted right up. Hey, if an old guy like me can do it......

Jack
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:55 AM   #12
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2012 F250 SD mods.

I am surprised you did not get the 5th wheel prep Package with the new truck that's what I did. Reese makes a adapter plate that fits most of their hitches I bought the one that Ford uses for $700 less than Ford wanted from the factory.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantlaker View Post
I am surprised you did not get the 5th wheel prep Package with the new truck that's what I did. Reese makes a adapter plate that fits most of their hitches I bought the one that Ford uses for $700 less than Ford wanted from the factory.
If we had ordered the truck, that was on my list of "must haves". But, we took advantage of end of model year discounts to buy a new 2012 and had the dealer find us one that matched as many of our requirements as possible. As it was, this truck was found on a dealer's lot in Buffalo. I am happy with it all around.

The $255 for the rail and custom fit bracket kit was a great bargain too as it normally retails for around $325 or so.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:33 PM   #14
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You will love the truck. They are quite the towing beast. My only complaint is fuel mileage. My 2006 got around 13 mpg towing our old Rockwood fifth wheel and the 2011 would only do around 11 with the same rig. Highway towing with the Fuzion 315 results in 8.5 to 9 mpg. The truck does great empty (17 mpg average) but it sure loves the fuel when it tows. I will say that the benefit of all that fuel being burned is 100% overdrive normal highway towing with no shifting and that is with a high profile 15,000 lb trailer in tow. Mountain passes require 4th gear and result in 60-65 mph at the peak. These trucks have come a long way!
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
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You will love the truck. They are quite the towing beast. My only complaint is fuel mileage. My 2006 got around 13 mpg towing our old Rockwood fifth wheel and the 2011 would only do around 11 with the same rig. Highway towing with the Fuzion 315 results in 8.5 to 9 mpg. The truck does great empty (17 mpg average) but it sure loves the fuel when it tows. I will say that the benefit of all that fuel being burned is 100% overdrive normal highway towing with no shifting and that is with a high profile 15,000 lb trailer in tow. Mountain passes require 4th gear and result in 60-65 mph at the peak. These trucks have come a long way!
Was that with the 6.7L or an older engine? 6 speed auto transmission? I ask because I am already seeing 18.5 MPG on long trips with steady speeds maintained. Around town, the mileage drops off fast which I suspect has to do with stop/start acceleration more than anything.

I won't be able to check out the towing capacity until spring as we put the Cougar in storage for the winter. But the first trip will be a 110 mile jaunt through the Adirondacks including the hill out of Blue Mountain Lake so we'll know for sure how it does then.

This is going to be fun.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:33 PM   #16
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A quick update on upfitting the truck. Today I gathered up enough info to rip into the dashboard without breaking anything. The goal was to pull the AM/FM/CD unit to verify the type of harness connection plugs so that I could order the right adapter for the JVC HD radio that I have. I also wanted to move some of the excess wiring out of sight and to gain a better understanding of how the dash is laid out and assembled.

Once you learn the trick, it's very easy to open up the entire center section of the dash board which exposes the radio, two A/C vents, and all of the switches and such that are located there.

The radio is held in with four screws on the front panel and then just pulls right out. Here's a view of the backside of the radio while it is hanging down from its normal position:


I pulled the plugs out of the back of the radio to snap a quick pic of them so I can order the correct harness adapter:


It is all reassembled for the moment. I have a double din mounting cage, wiring harness adapter, and antenna adapter on order but with the upcoming holiday and a 3 day trip out of town in the works for this week, I doubt I'll get any more done on the radio until next weekend at the earliest.

I did manage to move all the wiring for the satellite radio head and the GPS into the dash board and out of sight. Ford provides a little hatch in the front center of the top of the dashboard. On some models, there would be a headlight dimming sensor there but it's just a blank cover about 1" square. It pops out easily and all the wiring is 99% hidden from view now. When I get all the radio supplies in, they will both be mounted more permanently with no exposed wiring. And they'll be down below my line of vision out the front window. Pics and details when I get going on that.

I am stumped on an electrical issue at the moment so any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. Here's the situation: The truck came with four 12vdc outlets; all cigarette lighter style and all are always hot. None of them are ignition/accessory controlled. I'd like to move at least one or two of them to ignition/accessory control. The truck is also equipped with the upfitter switches. These are four accessory switches that can be used as needed for things like spotlights, emergency lighting, etc. However, all four of them are ignition/accessory controlled which means I can't leave a switch on and emergency lights running if I pull the key. So I'd like to move a couple of them over to always hot. All of my emergency lighting is LED and can be left running for hours without running down a battery.

I'll probably work on getting the two way radios installed and working early this week. The GMRS radio may be of some interest to folks here since it can also be used to communicate with those bubble-pack FRS (Family Radio Service) walkie-talkies that every one favors these day.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:34 PM   #17
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6.7L diesel, 6R140 6 speed auto trans, 3.55 gears and 275/65/20 tires. Crew cab, long bed F350 SRW. I see between 18 and 20 empty. I average 17 in the Summer and 15.5 in the Winter. With a 6' x 12' utility trailer hauling a 900 lb golf cart mileage drops to 14-14.5 mpg. The truck pulls like a freight train, but it likes it's fuel when under a load.

The 2006 was a 6.0 with 3.73 gears and the 5R110 auto trans. Everything else about the two trucks was equal. The 6.0 would get 22 mpg on the highway, 17 around town and 13 towing an 8500 lb fifth wheel trailer at any speed I desired. For what it's worth, I always tend to get a little better fuel mileage than average in every vehicle I have ever driven. This 6.7 baffles me and I have even considered tuning it to see if it does any better.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:13 AM   #18
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A lot of work going into that truck. Its going to be nice when done. For me it seems like a bit too much work

Personally for me i would pick up one nice head unit to clean up the dash. There are several head units that have, AM / FM / CD / satellite radio /GPS / DVD & back up camera in one unit.

Perhaps i'm just lazy

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Old 11-18-2012, 03:30 PM   #19
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Congrats on the new truck. I just went over 26K on my truck and the mileage has gotten noticeably better in the last 1500 miles.

One recommendation I have is to get air bags for the rear. These newer trucks squat much easier due to the longer leaf springs.
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebel View Post
One recommendation I have is to get air bags for the rear. These newer trucks squat much easier due to the longer leaf springs.
Got the specs and install sheets for both the Air Lifts and the Firestones in my book already. They'll have to wait until after Christmas now but I will have them installed before mid-April.

I'm keeping my ear to the ground over in the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum for info on air bags among other things.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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