looking for some advice - cold weather

jeffro413 · 10-19-2013, 08:54 AM

i'm a complete rookie!! next weekend i'd like to take my Fuzion 301 to a football game for tailgating. my temps this coming week are (today) 55/35, 58/29, 45/28, 44/26, 51/30, 46/28, 54/37 and Sunday 55/35. it is stored inside, but no building heat or insulation. i'm heading south to slightly warmer temps saturday night and sunday. my question is, should i winterize here, haul it down then fill? dump on the way home and winterize again?

again, complete newbie!!

Thanks in advance

**JRTJH** · 10-19-2013, 09:07 AM

If you're going to have the furnace on and keep the interior at around 68-74, you will be OK with a low of 28. Just don't sit it outside unheated in that temp and expect it to recover in an hour once you do turn the furnace on. It will take a while to reheat. Best to keep it warm. You should have no problems.

Unless you're going to be using it after this weekend, I'd dump on the way home, winterize when you get back and tuck it away till spring. If you are considering using it some more before it gets "really cold" I'd dump, and blow the lines with compressed air, open the low point drains and empty the HWH. a bit of antifreeze in each P trap would be a good idea, and don't forget the toilet.

2014Fuzion300 · 10-19-2013, 05:35 PM

Like JRT JH said, you are going to be fine.
Winterize after you tailgate party only if you're not going to be using your camper for long time and under really cold weather!
I live in Savannah GA and we actually like to go camping in the winter. We don't winterize :-)

Sent from my iPhone.

skidooxman · 10-19-2013, 05:54 PM

Does anyone know when or how to turn on tank heaters on fuzions ? Thanks

2014Fuzion300 · 10-19-2013, 05:56 PM

In mine is part of the furnace.

Sent from my iPhone.

Locowrench · 10-20-2013, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'd dump, and blow the lines with compressed air, open the low point drains and empty the HWH. a bit of antifreeze in each P trap would be a good idea, and don't forget the toilet.

This is how I winterized mine every year, haven't had any problems yet.

jeffro413 · 10-21-2013, 11:41 AM

Thank you for the info!! I'll winterize it sunday night when we get home.

crash · 10-22-2013, 05:05 AM

We dont really winterize we use ours year round,we drian tanks ,hot water heater,blow lines out with compressor and leave all fuacets open turn heat strips on in roof top unit to 45 to 50 and have never had a problem yet

**JRTJH** · 10-22-2013, 06:45 AM

Crash,

Living in the "banana belt" (sub tropical area) of VA, I'd do what you do as well. Try that in the "tundra" and you'll open the door to a whole new world of frozen and busted pipes LOL

Nailz · 10-28-2013, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If you're going to have the furnace on and keep the interior at around 68-74, you will be OK with a low of 28. Just don't sit it outside unheated in that temp and expect it to recover in an hour once you do turn the furnace on. It will take a while to reheat. Best to keep it warm. You should have no problems.

Unless you're going to be using it after this weekend, I'd dump on the way home, winterize when you get back and tuck it away till spring. If you are considering using it some more before it gets "really cold" I'd dump, and blow the lines with compressed air, open the low point drains and empty the HWH. a bit of antifreeze in each P trap would be a good idea, and don't forget the toilet.

What about the toilet? Are you saying I should put RV antifreeze in the black tank? Just starting to get cold here in the south so I need to get the camper ready.

**JRTJH** · 10-28-2013, 10:59 AM

I don't put antifreeze in my black tank. I flush and rinse it well and leave the valve open. I do put antifreeze in the toilet (above the flapper) and make sure there's antifreeze in the flush valve and rim of the toilet. I don't put any antifreeze in any of my holding tanks or FW tank, I just make sure they're empty and the valves are open. Some people do use antifreeze, but I've never found a reason as long as the valves are open. If, however, you close the tank valves, water can accumulate behind them in the pipes and can freeze causing damage, thus the reason why I leave mine open.

Nailz · 10-28-2013, 11:35 AM

Thanks for the clarification.

I intend to purge my water system using an air compressor. Exercising the flush pedal for the toilet during this process should remove water from the flush valve and rim of the toilet, yes? Then I would only need to add a small amount of rv antifreeze to the bowl above the flapper in order to maintain the seal?

I would also need to fill any sink P-Traps with RV antifreeze, correct? Drain the hot water heater. Is there a P-Trap in the shower/tub drain?

Nailz · 10-28-2013, 11:37 AM

Also when you leave your gray & black tank drains open, do you put anything over the opening to prevent any critters getting in?

**JRTJH** · 10-28-2013, 11:53 AM

After you blow out the lines with compressed air, open the low point drains again and hold your foot flush down to allow water to drain back through the valve. I've always used antifreeze as it is hard to force the water in the toilet up and out the rim, but one member here says he has had good results by simply opening the foot valve and allowing the remaining water to drain back into the lines and out the low point drain.

Then, yes you need to add an inch or so of antifreeze to the toilet to cover the flapper valve and prevent it from drying out.

I pour about 2 cups of antifreeze in each of my "P" traps including the shower. On some showers there is a "P" trap and on some there is a "cheater valve" Mine has a cheater, but I think "better safe than sorry" so I add antifreeze anyway.

As for the open tank valves, if you want, you can cover them with a piece of aluminum window screen material and secure it to the open pipe with a zip tie, but I've never done anything with mine. Even if a "critter" should be brave enough to suffer the smell, where's he going to go except into a plastic dungeon??? There's no food or other incentive to lure him there. I've never found anything living in my tanks.

Don't forget to add antifreeze and/or to blow out your black tank flush line. The antisiphon valve on that system is separate from and not a part of the water system.

Nailz · 10-28-2013, 12:02 PM

John,

Thanks for the advice. I didn't even think about the black Tank flush

.

I think I'll cover my drain opening. The way my luck runs a family of squirrels will setup home in my gray tank and fill the black tank with nuts

Curtis

**JRTJH** · 10-28-2013, 12:11 PM

LOL I'd be reluctant to eat those squirrels (assuming you like squirrel and dumplings) after eating those nuts LOL

The main thing with the tank valves is just to make sure water doesn't accumulate behind them. If it should and then freeze, it may split the pipe. That's why I leave mine open. You could get the "garden hose 3" cap and leave the garden hose plug open and do the same thing, then it would only be "small critters" that could get into your tank LOL

PLEASE Don't forget your black tank flush. That's one sure way to flood your RV next time you try to clean your tank LOL

If your antisiphon valve is readily accessible (mine is under the bathroom sink) after you blow the lines, you can simply take the valve off (it's screwed on hand tight only) and put it in the house with other things from the RV that you don't want to leave "out in the cold"

Mine is in the garage with all the toilet chemicals, sun screen, bug spray, etc.

OH and don't forget the outside shower if you have one !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nailz · 10-28-2013, 12:32 PM

John,

Squirrels and dumplings LOL.

What is the reason for removing the anti-siphon valve on the black tank flush?

Outside shower is on my list.

Curtis

**JRTJH** · 10-28-2013, 03:58 PM

If you've read many of my "plumbing posts" you'll have seen the comment: "I HATE PLUMBING" somewhere.... I believe the antisiphon valve is the "weakest link" in the entire water system in any RV. The antisiphon valve is probably just fine where it's at, but I don't know if I have all the water out of it or not, and since it's out there in the "wide open" just sitting there, I thought, "why not just take it off and then you know there's no water trapped inside it." So, that's what I do. Other's may (probably do) just blow it out or pump a little antifreeze into it and go on about the task of getting ready for winter. I'm of the opinion (we all have one) that it's just as easy to take it off, put it inside and put it back on next spring. Plus, that way, I know it's not split, leaking or worse. I hate cleaning up water messes and I hate having to lay on a wet carpet to replace a valve I could have stored inside all winter.....

That's just my take on things. Honestly, I think I'm probably only one of a small handfull of RV'ers who remove the antisiphon valve each fall. I'd also say that I'm one of only a handfull of RV'ers who know their antisiphon valve didn't freeze and crack next spring LOL

Oh, in case you haven't heard..... I HATE PLUMBING !!!

Outbackmel · 10-28-2013, 04:43 PM

I always dump about a quarter gallon in the toilet and no issues. What I believe he is referring to is the toilet itself, leaving seals wet w anti freeze AND make sure lines to the toilet and fittings are either clear of water OR pink.

Nailz · 10-29-2013, 04:38 AM

thanks John for the tips. I think I'll create a document that lists the steps for winterizing my rig just so I don't forget something.

Curtis

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