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Old 11-04-2012, 06:22 PM   #1
Paramenace
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Is it too much to handle?

We're considerig purchasing a Cougar X-Lite 28RBS. The floor plan is exactly what we want. About the only thing that would hold us back is our truck.

We have a 2011 Texas Edition, Toyota Tundra, 2wd, double cab, 6.5 bed, 4.6L V8, with the factory tow package. The book rates it with an 8,200lb towing capacity.

The website says 6,387lbs dry weight. Any thoughts???? What about the tongue weight???
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:23 PM   #2
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Weight-wise, you're pretty close, but have a couple hundred pounds to spare in gross weight. It won't be peppy on the hills. Length-wise, it looks like a pretty good match.

Hitch is close to a thousand pounds, and that maybe a snag, depending on your truck's payload capacity.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:20 PM   #3
chris199
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How many people and/or dogs and stuff will be in the truck when travelling? I have the 5.7 L Tundra and am at payload with just my wife and I and 900+ lb of tongue wgt. 1/2 ton trucks tow ok..in fact the Tundra tows very well...but if ur way over payload I would be concerned about ur, ur family, and others' safety.

BTW keystone brochure said my TT was 755 hitch wgt....turned out to be 940 or so.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:11 PM   #4
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I think it's safe to assume that all Trailer Mfrs brochure numbers are grossly on the low side, while Truck Mfrs brochure numbers are grossly on the high side. Thus can make for a very interesting towing experience.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
I think it's safe to assume that all Trailer Mfrs brochure numbers are grossly on the low side, while Truck Mfrs brochure numbers are grossly on the high side. Thus can make for a very interesting towing experience.
Agreed. My 323bhs is supposed to be 8700 dry. I wieghed it and my truck together with nothing in TT and it came to 14900. I just wieghed my truck with a full tank of gas(26gallons@ 6.3lbs per gallon) and it came in at 5820 with me in it(200lbs). Using that and if my math is right(prob not) and its more than 700lbs more than advertised.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:38 AM   #6
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First off that is a very nice camper and I know the position you are in when wanting the layout that you feel is perfect.

This is my opinion only and will try an explain why I feel that way. I think you will have a very hard time hauling that trailer with any half ton. Not just because the weight of the camper but the length of it as well. I think you will experience some trailer sway and white knuckle driving while hauling it reducing the over all enjoyment of the camper. I have been there and it is really tough to enjoy your trip when you dread the drive there and home.

With this said a 3/4 ton truck with a 160" wheel base would be what I would need to feel safe hauling that camper. The longer the wheelbase the more control you will have 20’ trailer for the first 110” of wheelbase plus one additional foot for every 4” of wheelbase thereafter was a rule of thumb I was provided with and my bet is your truck would come in at 140" which would want me in a 28ft trailer. most 3/4 with the crew cab are around 167 which puts them around 35ft of trailer.

Can you set your truck up to haul this camper? Possibly but some would argue based on the weight if you will be safe or not and it really does depend on your experience, driving habits and where you will be travelling. If you are going to buy this camper as most people do while upgrading your truck is not an option as it rarely is and the dealer I am sure states your truck will have no issues which he has to know what he is talking about, heck a mini van has hauled these out of here, (what my first dealer told me as I hauled my 27ft 5000pd camper away with my Jeep liberty ), I would like to make some suggestions on your truck.

1) Put some air bags in the back. It is a half ton but I bet you will have close to 1200pds on the back of it and although you will most likely have a weight distro hooked up you cannot transfer that much weight off your hitch and not increase the sway of the camper. The airbags will help your truck not sit on the ground, reduce the maintenance on the truck, ( springs, axles, tires). This should set you back about $300

2) Get a set of E rated tires. The stronger side wall will help with the larger weight, reduce the risk of blow outs and when you got that trailer with your truck in front of it...not something you want to have happen you will be lucky to make it out in one piece. I recommend the Michelin LTX M/S2, I have them on my truck and the little more you pay in price in the start will be cheaper in the long run with thread life. Price $1400

3) Put a good hitch on!. Hensley Hitch would most likely make you feel a lot better and enjoy the ride. You can find them used for around $1000 to $1200. Reese Dual Cam is an option around $700 new which is the one I have but I would only recommend if you ask your dealer and they have set them up before. I have had two dealers not set them up right and it does not help if its not set up right. (If you go with this and they set it up without taking it for a drive big red flag). I have heard of an equalizer hitch as well but know little about it.

At the end of the day even if you choose some or all of these upgrades its not going to help you stop any quicker. My bet would be that camper loaded up will be all of 8500pds if not more so be careful when driving and never be in a hurry!
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:42 AM   #7
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Pull it... yes

Safely.... not in my opinion

Would I do it.... NO
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:10 AM   #8
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HI! I WOULD have to agree with Javi. on this. also dry weight is when it left the factory. no propane no battery(s) no nothing and that is the tounge weight too. so all that goes up when you add stuff. that is a nice tt you are looking at. be imho you should cosider a truck up grade too. good luck
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
I think it's safe to assume that all Trailer Mfrs brochure numbers are grossly on the low side, while Truck Mfrs brochure numbers are grossly on the high side. Thus can make for a very interesting towing experience.
That combined with most posters that post these questions are using DRY weight! You will never tow a trailer dry except maybe for the trip home from the dealer.

When looking at a trailer, you must be looking at the GVWR of the trailer! It is true most don't load to the full GVWR, but if you use that number you will be closer than the dry weight.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:23 AM   #10
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You will never tow a trailer dry except maybe for the trip home from the dealer.

.
And that is hardly the case too. Mine went from the dealer to the scale as is and the numbers above in my last post prove that. Dry wieght isnt even a number we should concern ourselves with.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:11 AM   #11
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One bit of info that hasn't been discussed here is payload. I looked up the Tundra and found a payload rating of 1,330# which is very low. That has to include occupants (including the dogs), fuel, gear, anything else that is loaded into the truck plus the tongue weight of the trailer.

If the hitch weight is spec'd at 900#, that leaves almost nothing for people and cargo.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:36 AM   #12
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I agree 100%. Was trying to make that point in my earlier post. I also have a Tundra. Am at payload limit with just my trailer tongue wgt, wife, 2 bikes, and minimal stuff in back seat. My hitch weight is approx 200 lb more than that in Keystone brochure......940 actual vs 755 brochure I believe.

IMHO, it is virtually impossible to tow the max trailer weight of the Tundra with a Tundra. You can never get there if the tongue weight is anywhere near "normal". Payload will be exceeded well before reaching the max towing capacity.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:57 PM   #13
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I pull that same trailer with a Ram 3500, on a 169" wheelbase and airbags. I don't even know that it is behind me. As stated earlier, if your road trip is a white knuckle ride, a lot of the enjoyment will be diminished due to anxiety on the road. I only raise the obvious point that my truck is a bit of overkill for this trailer to make the point that pulling the weight is one thing, being able to safely stop and feeling a sense of total control is something else. At any rate, good luck on your decision, it is a great travel trailer layout.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:11 PM   #14
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Maybe it could pull the brochure trailer weight if hooked to a sled and at the Truck & Tractor Pull!
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:43 PM   #15
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Having been down this road, and am now on the other side with an upgraded TV (at least marginally); the question is less about motor/trans, and more about braking and handling.

As was suggested to me, the tow vehicle frame has alot to do with a Weight Distribution hitch being able to carry the load to the front of the tow vehicle. 1/2 ton rails will 'flex' more.

In a 'reaction' moment to the unexpected, your 1/2 ton may be challenged to be stable, so that you can use the little brakes it has to manuever the situation.

A properly equipped 3/4 ton will do it with alot more confidence, and in the end; you won't be burning up your transmission; because assuredly; with that 4.6L you will be running high RPM's on any hills.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:26 PM   #16
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I wouldn't recommend it but safety for me is more than a buzzword. I want some margin in my set up.
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