Location of manual override for slide out

LouSlugger · 12-22-2011, 08:47 AM

I have a 2007 Fuzion 362 with two slides. Trying to plan for possible failure of system. For slide in master bedroom, you can lift up the bed and find a fitting for a ratchet (looks like 3/4 inch) that moves that slide in or out. But for the other (larger) slide, the place where I assume the manual override is located (in line with the ram for that slide) is covered by the material that is across the entire underside of the rig. I would apparently have to cut some of that material away to ever access the override. Seems like they could have put an access panel there. Am I mistaken? Has anyone else ever accessed that override?

**hankpage** · 12-22-2011, 09:58 AM

We have a 12"x 12" hatch (cut out with flap screwed back up) in the plastic covering for our Cougar. The motor is on the opposite side from the slide. (curb side slide = street side motor access ) Some have through the frame rail access on the opposite side also. Lippert has manuals available on their web-page that may be helpful. Have a great holiday, Hank

LouSlugger · 12-23-2011, 12:21 PM

Thanks much and same to you.

SteveC7010 · 12-23-2011, 01:17 PM

Lou, that Coroplast material that encloses the bottom of the trailer is really easy to work with. You can cut it easily with a sharp utility knife. My trailer came with several flaps already cut into it. They were held back in place with HVAC tape which I replaced with Gorilla Tape.

When I get the trailer back from storage in the spring, one of my first mods will be to make sure there are access flaps for the manual slide fittings plus some of the electric and plumbing.

FWIW, if you need more Coroplast, any sign painting shop will have it in stock as they use it a lot these days for yard signs, real estate signs, etc.

f6bits · 12-23-2011, 02:12 PM

I’m troubleshooting my duct work. How good *is* the Gorilla tape at holding the flaps closed? The bottom is pretty flex and I wonder how you can apply enough pressure to get the tape to stick well.

SteveC7010 · 12-23-2011, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdayman

I’m troubleshooting my duct work. How good *is* the Gorilla tape at holding the flaps closed? The bottom is pretty flex and I wonder how you can apply enough pressure to get the tape to stick well.

Some places are less supported than others so you may not always be able to press as hard as you think is needed. I found that cleaning the area first really helps. And you can always go back and check it and re-press as needed.

FWIW, I am thinking about picking up some pieces of Coroplast and cutting them about an inch or two larger than the flaps. That way I can run a couple of screws up around the edges and really know that it will hold.

chain_dogg · 12-23-2011, 04:24 PM

Great info !!..Thanks

**hankpage** · 12-23-2011, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdayman

I’m troubleshooting my duct work. How good *is* the Gorilla tape at holding the flaps closed? The bottom is pretty flex and I wonder how you can apply enough pressure to get the tape to stick well.

If you are doing ducts buy a quality metal duct tape. You don't have to press hard ... once it makes contact it's stuck for good and it will not dry up and peel off. You can also use it on the furnace plenum to seal the openings in the knockouts. Have a great holiday, Hank

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