Winterizing thoughts

huhhhhh · 03-22-2017, 03:12 PM

Was reading through the manual today about the two methods of winterizing.

On the using air method if you blow out all the water with air why is there still a need to put 2 gallons of antifreeze back into the system? I can understand having some in the toilet to keep the seal wet but why put any in the lines that would require the extensive de-winterize flushing.

Is the manufacture just not confident in the user getting all the water out with the air method and erring on the side of caution by filling the lines back up with the antifreeze?

I use air to blow out the sprinkler system every year and never had a problem with any left over water freezing and damaging any of the system.

**JRTJH** · 03-22-2017, 03:22 PM

I don't know about using 2 gallons of antifreeze, but you do need to use enough to fill each of the P traps, in the toilet and also to purge water from the black tank flush system. As for the fresh water lines, both hot and cold, if you use air, don't forget to leave all of the faucets turned on (so any remaining water won't freeze and damage the faucet stem in the closed position).

huhhhhh · 03-22-2017, 03:26 PM

Yeah I'm more interested in not putting any antifreeze in any of the water lines to faucets or fresh water tank. I'm fine with putting in the pee traps, black & grey tank.

**JRTJH** · 03-22-2017, 03:31 PM

Living in Michigan, I don't trust just using air. I always blow the lines first, then follow with antifreeze, pumped in via the water pump. In 10 years of doing it that way I've never had any damage. Prior to that, an occasional frozen line (back when they were flexible copper tubing) or a faucet or toilet valve.

If you do decide to skip antifreeze, don't forget to remove the fresh water tank line to the pump, let it drain back into the FW tank and run the pump "dry" so it won't freeze. You'll also need to purge water from the "T" in the city water connection that goes to the water pump.

I've never had any problems with "after taste" or with flushing the antifreeze from the lines. I run fresh water via the city water connection till clear, then fill the FW tank, add Clorox to sanitize and flush. Never any aftertaste. "Today's" antifreeze isn't like it was 40 years ago when everyone had pink towels and washcloths every spring.

**sourdough** · 03-22-2017, 04:02 PM

I just use air to blow out our lines then purge the pump etc. We live in a very moderate climate and I still kind of get worried when cold weather comes because I don't use anti freeze. I do blow and blow, drain and drain, leave faucets open but still I can't help worry. Be sure and leave the faucets open if you blow out the lines. It gives any residual water that may be left behind room to expand. Be sure to also put the anti freeze in the traps/toilet/etc. as John mentioned. I drain everything completely, run the pump to get everything out of it, blow out everything again and call it good. I'm not so sure that in Colorado Springs I wouldn't just install a winterizing kit and be done with it.

Javi · 03-22-2017, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

I just use air to blow out our lines then purge the pump etc. We live in a very moderate climate and I still kind of get worried when cold weather comes because I don't use anti freeze. I do blow and blow, drain and drain, leave faucets open but still I can't help worry. Be sure and leave the faucets open if you blow out the lines. It gives any residual water that may be left behind room to expand. Be sure to also put the anti freeze in the traps/toilet/etc. as John mentioned. I drain everything completely, run the pump to get everything out of it, blow out everything again and call it good. I'm not so sure that in Colorado Springs I wouldn't just install a winterizing kit and be done with it.

Yep... We camp every few weeks during what passes for winter in central Texas and so I would need a truck load of antifreeze... I blow the lines out and purge the pump, pour juice in the pee traps before we leave the campground..

Tbos · 03-22-2017, 05:15 PM

I use the air method too.

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66joej · 03-22-2017, 05:48 PM

RV antifreeze up here in the frozen North is preferred.

huhhhhh · 03-22-2017, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

I wouldn't just install a winterizing kit and be done with it.

What is this winterizing kit you speak of?

Malitov · 03-23-2017, 05:30 AM

It gets pretty cold in Minnesota, but I've always been a fan of blowing out the system. Never had a single issue, and I like the fact that I don't waste any water in the spring flushing the system. Just plug in, prime things up, and I'm good to go.

That said, I just bought my first new camper, and it came winterized with antifreeze. I plan to take careful note of just how painful it is to flush in the next couple of weeks (I hope!). I almost hate to admit it, but as of now, I'm leaning towards using antifreeze for at least a year or two. Being that it's new, I really don't want to take any chances.

bmach · 03-23-2017, 06:43 AM

How painful can turning on the water be? That is all you have to do.

canesfan · 03-23-2017, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmach

How painful can turning on the water be? That is all you have to do.

I too wonder about all this "fretting" over winterizing and dewinterizing. What is so horrible about using RV antifreeze? And what is so "painful" about turning on the water for maybe a minute to flush the lines? I am not making light of anyone, I just don't understand. It takes me maybe 5 minutes to winterize, much less than that to dewinterize. I haven't been poisoned in how many years now?

Bostongone · 03-23-2017, 07:25 AM

Have owned a used 2007 Springdale for several years and used the antifreeze method until this year when I simply blew the lines out (and used the antifreeze in all the right places). Then when I was crawling under my trailer I noticed the two gravity drain ports hanging under the trailer? Don't believe they are mentioned I'm the manual (will check) and we're not mentioned on the acceptance walk through. Must be tough material because while there was water still in them they appear undamaged. Brother in law with rear kitchen Springdale did not know about them either, his has the antifreeze.

canesfan · 03-23-2017, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bostongone

Have owned a used 2007 Springdale for several years and used the antifreeze method until this year when I simply blew the lines out (and used the antifreeze in all the right places). Then when I was crawling under my trailer I noticed the two gravity drain ports hanging under the trailer? Don't believe they are mentioned I'm the manual (will check) and we're not mentioned on the acceptance walk through. Must be tough material because while there was water still in them they appear undamaged. Brother in law with rear kitchen Springdale did not know about them either, his has the antifreeze.

Hmm, they are probably PEX, which is pretty tough, but not immune to freezing damage. Hopefully your valves on them are ok. Before you winterize, as part of the process, you should drain these two low point drains. The as you winterize they will fill antifeeze also.

**JRTJH** · 03-23-2017, 08:19 AM

PEX tubing is "fairly rugged" and will survive freeze expansion better than the old copper tubing did. The problem with PEX is the fittings and terminal caps/valves. On your low point drains are either caps or valves which can freeze and crack. The low point line originates at a "T" in the hot/cold water line. Even if you blow the lines, unless you remove the low point cap/open the valve, standing water "from the "T" to the end can freeze and cause damage. If you don't have any damage, consider it a "good fortune experience" and try not to forget next year..... Being lucky isn't always assured from year to year......

Tbos · 03-23-2017, 08:46 AM

After I blow everything out I leave the caps off the low point drains and use some of the DWs old pantyhose to cover them and keep bugs from crawling in and nesting. Works well.

2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

Malitov · 03-23-2017, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmach

How painful can turning on the water be? That is all you have to do.

I'll grant that 'painful' is probably too harsh. My past experience has involved simply hooking up the water in the spring, no flushing required. There's no doubt in my mind that flushing will be simple, it's just simply a step I've never had to do before.

**sourdough** · 03-23-2017, 09:38 AM

Getting rid of the anti freeze is very simple as has been said so it won't be an issue. When the pink is gone you should be good to go. Use the city water and run the pump as well.

On the low point drains I always pull the caps and blow them out as well. Water does settle there. I put the caps back on where I live but if I was in a colder climate I would leave them off so the plastic fixtures wouldn't freeze and break.

PEX IS tough. When we had our house in the mountains re-plumbed the plumber recommended PEX. He said it was guaranteed to not split/break down to something like -30/40? Of course, if the lines are drained, which we do, they are just fine. The other things were the fittings. Those there are some sort of compression fittings with brass hardware. Those in the trailer aren't nearly as stout so they would seem to be a possible breaking point if you didn't winterize properly.

Bostongone · 03-23-2017, 07:03 PM

As I mentioned I never knew they were there but will definitely be removing the end caps to drain the residual water next year!

notanlines · 03-24-2017, 03:00 AM

What Canesfan said. But keep in mind that RV repair people need to work also. Just blow a little air in there and whatever will be will be......

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