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Old 11-15-2020, 06:08 PM   #21
rlh1957
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Originally Posted by Camping family View Post
Okay hope this is my last question on the subject of level. Have auto level system last two times out in order to get level tires were off the ground on one side. My question is should you level your camper with some sort of leveling block prior to using you auto level system. If so Iím thinking of buying the Anderson leveling system.
If my fifth wheel is on very un-level ground and level jacks are extending way out I use level block pads on that side.

Check your manf info on whether you should let the stabilizer auto level system raise tires off the ground.

Some fifth wheels or trailers with auto level should not be used to raise tires even to change a spare. It isnít stressed or braced for it. The level jacks are usually meant to stabilize and level rig.
Class A motorhome can usually be raised off the wheels.
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Old 11-15-2020, 06:23 PM   #22
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Wheels up

I have the andersens, nice idea but if the ground is soft they sink, you need boards to disperse the weight, its not good for the stabilizers to have wheels up, if you have never seen a tilt, slide, bend of a stabilizer, you don't have the fear, knowledge and you think they should, but they are not strong enough. I have not been there but I saw it and will do everything in my ways to never have wheels up.

Good luck to the ones that roll the dice, it will be expensive.

STAY SAFE CAMPERS
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:22 PM   #23
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I have a Montana with a Lippert leveling system. Often when weíve been parked for a week or more the system indicates ďjacks down / levelĒ. Only it isnít level. Generally itís bow to stern thatís half a bubble out of level and, generally, itís down on the bow. Just enough to cause cabinet doors to drift open toward the bow. Someone mentioned resetting the level system. Howís that done?
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Old 11-16-2020, 03:45 AM   #24
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I have a Montana with a Lippert leveling system. Often when weíve been parked for a week or more the system indicates ďjacks down / levelĒ. Only it isnít level. Generally itís bow to stern thatís half a bubble out of level and, generally, itís down on the bow. Just enough to cause cabinet doors to drift open toward the bow. Someone mentioned resetting the level system. Howís that done?
Do you have the owner's manual? Otherwise search your leveling system on the internet for the procedures. I don't remember exactly but it goes something like turn it on, get level using real levels, push left 10 times, right 10 times. Or something similar. There are different systems and changes to systems so look up YOUR system for exact procedures.

NOTE you need to manually level the RV before recalibrating the leveling system. That means real levels like a good carpenters level checking front-rear and left-right. Not a kids or puny 1" toy. I also wouldn't use one of the refer circular levels. Get a real level. Check level in more than one spot in the RV. Then recalibrate according to specific procedures in your manual. Easy to do.
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Old 11-16-2020, 06:34 AM   #25
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I carry two 2' x 8" x 6' Pressured treated boards in the truck box at all times.
They were cheap, readily replaceable from any HD, Lowes, or lumber yard if damaged.
The andersons look nice, but I can buy quite a bit of lumber for the price of those.
I bought the extended x chocks for my TT and felt ripped off so I analyze things completely before I buy them now.
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Old 11-16-2020, 07:11 AM   #26
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Okay hope this is my last question on the subject of level. Have auto level system last two times out in order to get level tires were off the ground on one side. My question is should you level your camper with some sort of leveling block prior to using you auto level system. If so Iím thinking of buying the Anderson leveling system.
I had the same problem with my new Montana 3120 and I learned some hard lessons. Go to the LCI website and download the manual on how to level your trailer. If your trailer is in Montana, there is a breaker 18 inches above the batteries in this breaker will pop if your leveling system gets out of whack. Thereís a little red flag that you push back up and itíll reset itself. Do not, do not let your local RV repair shop talk you into replacing the breaker with a larger breaker or a new hydraulic pump, which the RV dealership and Albuquerque did on mine. According to LCI manual the trailer needs to be leveled from side to side within 2į so when Iím out camping I managed to level my trailer with yellow blocks and then it will level itself. Also according to LCI manual itís a good idea to take your trailer to a parking lot words totally flat and then reset the computer so the computer knows what a true level is. It is very disappointing that Montana customer service did not know anything about this process. Also go on YouTube and youíll find some great videos on how to do this. Good luck and donít let anyone try to Talk you into replacing your batteries, hydraulic pump or putting an 80 amp breaker into your leveler. Call the LCI tech reps and they are great about helping you with this issue.
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Old 11-16-2020, 05:33 PM   #27
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The answer to your question is "yes". You should attempt to level the camper as much as possible prior to using your self-leveling system.

The reason is so none of your jacks will "stroke out" and cause an error. Stroking out is caused when the jack is extended beyond a certain point and won't extend any further, but it's still not enough to bring the camper to a level position. Case in point, if parked on a steep incline where the rear jacks extend only an inch, but the front ones don't lift enough to bring the trailer level yet.

At first, I experienced a lot of stroke-out's on my system because of over extending on some campsites and State Parks that was no problem with our previous shorter trailers.

What I found works best for me was to measure the distance of the jack extended on a relatively flat surface and I measured the length of each jack. I found out, this is the "ideal" extension length. So, what I do is keep a block of wood under each jack now, so the jack never extends farther than that original set distance. I even used a Sharpie and marked the shaft where that spot is.

So, if parked on a hill, I know I have to build up the distance from the ground so that jack never extends beyond my set point. I have always carried fence post sized blocks of wood for each jack on all my campers, and these work great to keep the distance of the jack extraction less than the set-marked distance. Yes, that means carrying lumber as you never know what the campsite will actually be like until you get there.

Hope this makes sense. There is a point on our Montanas where if the front is too high, (i believe) it will not level. So, after unhitching, I'll bring the nose close to level BEFORE activating the auto level system.

Another problem with error codes is if the trailer is NOT somewhat level side-to-side, the auto level will not work either. I think it's 4 degrees. If the left-right tilt of the trailer is more than 4 degrees, the auto level will not work either.

So, to answer your question ... YES ... your Montana does need to be manually set somewhat level BEFORE you activate the auto level feature.

What you use under your tires, and under those jacks to build up that gap is your choice. I prefer lumber, and carry a lot with me all the time. Heavy? Yes. But I've I never regreated having it. I also spend great length to level the picnic table too. I use the same lumber for the picnic table. Unlike so many parks in Texas, Indiana State Parks do not have concreted installed picnic tables. They are wood, free standing, and always unlevel unless you do something to level them yourself.
Can I ask, what do you do when itís in ďout of strokeĒ? How do you get it out of the out of stroke mode? Asking for a friend? Weíve had these leveling system on our 2018 Sprinter TT and itís always in the out of stroke mode. No matter how many blocks he puts under the jacks, itís still out of stroke.
Thanks for any info!!
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Old 11-16-2020, 05:45 PM   #28
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I had the same problem with my new Montana 3120 and I learned some hard lessons. Go to the LCI website and download the manual on how to level your trailer. If your trailer is in Montana, there is a breaker 18 inches above the batteries in this breaker will pop if your leveling system gets out of whack. There’s a little red flag that you push back up and it’ll reset itself. Do not, do not let your local RV repair shop talk you into replacing the breaker with a larger breaker or a new hydraulic pump, which the RV dealership and Albuquerque did on mine. According to LCI manual the trailer needs to be leveled from side to side within 2į so when I’m out camping I managed to level my trailer with yellow blocks and then it will level itself. Also according to LCI manual it’s a good idea to take your trailer to a parking lot words totally flat and then reset the computer so the computer knows what a true level is. It is very disappointing that Montana customer service did not know anything about this process. Also go on YouTube and you’ll find some great videos on how to do this. Good luck and don’t let anyone try to Talk you into replacing your batteries, hydraulic pump or putting an 80 amp breaker into your leveler. Call the LCI tech reps and they are great about helping you with this issue.
Seems something doesn't sound right??
On my Redwood along with a couple others I know that had 5th wheels with the 6 point levelling system Lipperts cure for the system starting/stopping was to replace the 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp, afterwards no more issues.
Also reading a couple other forums this breaker increase was the recommended fix on other brands as well.
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Old 11-18-2020, 04:51 AM   #29
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I had talked to a Lippert engineer as well. All I do is national forest camping and they assured me that its designed not to flex the frame when leveling or you will get the error. if you get the error blocks will be needed. mind you as another member mentioned. If you ramp up the wheels, keep in mind the stroke of the jacks so that they don't over extend. I have found the more the extension. The less sturdy the feel is. But I have had mine off the ground about two inches many times with no problems. But my suspension does not sag all the much when lifting. other trailers might. I seen a lot of broken springs from people doing this wrong. Lifting just one axle, leaving other sagging, etc...Common sense comes into play every time, If it don't look right, its not right. Add more blocks.. Remember, you just showed up, you still want to get out at some point :-)...
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Old 11-21-2020, 08:21 AM   #30
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I knew there had to be some process / procedure you go through. I’ll look to see.
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Old 11-21-2020, 02:23 PM   #31
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Can I ask, what do you do when itís in ďout of strokeĒ?...!
It seems when it's out of stroke, to reset is always slightly different, or else I can just never remember how I did it before.

But the sequence goes something like this.

Turn the control panel off and then back on.

Put the control in Manual mode.
Retract all your jacks manually.

At this point, I go ahead and hitch using the front jacks in manual mode.

After hitching, retract, manually, all your jacks at least 6 inches, but do not extend much more than that.

You then press and hold the retract button and this will rehome the jacks.

They will all retract. I like to turn the control off again at this point, and start all over with the total unhitching process.

Here's a link to explain how to operate in manual mode: Click here

After that, retract all Jacks and it's reset.

Just make sure you hitch up first. After resetting, level the trailer as much as possible with boards under the tires and blocks under the jacks so they do not extend any further than the length from the tires to the ground. If you have to build up blocks under one jack a foot high, then that's what it takes, if you are on really unlevel ground.
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Old 11-22-2020, 07:01 AM   #32
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Thank you so much. We will try it this way. Sure hate this system. Guy at the sales department says, push auto level, go have a beer and it’s ready when you’re done. BS! Lol
Never EVER believe the salesmen. They don’t know Jack!
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Old 11-22-2020, 07:58 AM   #33
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Thank you so much. We will try it this way. Sure hate this system. Guy at the sales department says, push auto level, go have a beer and itís ready when youíre done. BS! Lol
Never EVER believe the salesmen. They donít know Jack!
for the most part that is how it is. I had two out of stroke errors the first year I had the unit, once you lear how much blocking you need under the jacks for the angle of the site you almost will never get it again.

I push the auto level, put the pads under the back jacks as they are comming down then just stand around and BS till its done.

Steve
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Old 11-22-2020, 08:04 AM   #34
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This goes back a few years but I had a TT, around 30' that I kept in mostly a single location as a "cabin" at the lake. I had leveled using the screw aluminum jacks, not tires and it would rack the door frame. My 2011 Keystone Raptor 300MP did the same using the front Landing gear and rear stabilizers. Front door frame racked slightly out of square. Perhaps both of those had frame issues. My 2007 Itasca Horizon motorhome on a Freightliner chassis and if I had the front raised too much it would throw the shower door out of square. I could see the motorhome chassis the entire length and it was not cracked and it certainly was a much stouter frame than any Lippert component by any means.

.
ya nothing out of square when it is level at all, and it is rock solid. nothing out of alignment and such, you only get that when you are not level and twisting the frame. I would imaging the frames that are capable of having auto level are built for it as the capacity of the jacks will easily lift the whole camper in the air. I just like how solid it makes the 5th wheel.

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Old 11-22-2020, 08:24 AM   #35
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Thank you so much. We will try it this way. Sure hate this system. Guy at the sales department says, push auto level, go have a beer and itís ready when youíre done. BS! Lol
Never EVER believe the salesmen. They donít know Jack!
If yours doesn't level when auto is pressed it either needs calibrated or repaired. I'll never own another without that level up system.
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Old 11-25-2020, 12:09 PM   #36
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I've owned 3 TT, 1 Class C, 1 MH and now a 5th wheel.

This is how I learned to level my RV's.....I have the stick on bubbles
on the front side edges and one in the center of the body above the
5th wheel hitch.

I carry 5 foot 2'x8" boards (4) and level side to side first by placing
boards under the tires as needed.

Then I level front to back using the front electric stabilizer legs.

When everything is level then I put down the rear electric legs
and the 4 screw down stabilizers (2 per side). Sometimes I will also
add the screw jacks that go between the tires.

Now I am level and can open the slides.

Just how I do it and your way of doing it may differ.
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Old 11-25-2020, 02:28 PM   #37
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Okay hope this is my last question on the subject of level. Have auto level system last two times out in order to get level tires were off the ground on one side. My question is should you level your camper with some sort of leveling block prior to using you auto level system. If so Iím thinking of buying the Anderson leveling system.

If the site is so steep that your wheels come off the ground on one side, reposition your rig with the wheels on lego blocks and level again. You can also put it in manual mode and lower both sides until the wheels are touching.
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Old 11-25-2020, 02:53 PM   #38
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Contrary to what was just claimed, leveling your RV with one side having the tires off the ground is not a problem and does NOT constitute requiring a relevel with Legos or anything else. This is an old wife's tale. It may very well not be as steady, but the hydraulics are well capable of the weight.
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