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Old 03-21-2023, 02:43 PM   #1
dalamarjj78
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Troubleshooting a leaking bunk window

My trailer is still winterized so I went outside today to do my routine check-up and noticed a new issue.

The bottom corner of the window blind for one of my bunk windows is brown and discolored. I climbed up and took a closer look and it seems I have (another) leak. I pulled up the mattress and noticed slight water markings on the plywood underneath that indicates it's gotten wet.

I didn't notice anything with the window from the inside so went outside to take a look. The only thing I noticed is that part of the window trim seems a bit "off". I took a photo and marked it in red (attached). This is the same corner where the blind got wet.

I could really use an expert opinion - does this look like it could be the issue? If so, is it an easy repair?

Or should I suck it up and order a whole new window?

I'm not under warranty (the trailer's 3 years old) and will attempt this repair myself as I have no plans on leaving it to sit at the dealership all summer for repairs.

Any input and suggestions on other things to check would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-21-2023, 03:43 PM   #2
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We had some moldly looking stuff in the corner behind the couch on the slide wall. I put Lexel sealant on both sides and the top of the window and it hasn't grown since. The screws under that wall on the slide had a little discoloration to them so I took them out and they have had moisture on them at one time or another. It sat all winter in the open and no sign of moisture now. Doing the eyebrow seal on all the windows as a precaution.
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Old 03-21-2023, 05:36 PM   #3
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Some years ago, we had a water intrusion found at the carpet below a slide window. Could never find the leak, even had a mobile tech out to see if he had any ideas. Finally, I found one of those kits to add a clear cellophane over the window, except this was for the outside. After I installed it, no more water entry. I finally figured out there was a microscopic space between the outside frame flange and the outside wall surface, where the putty seal material is located, and that was where the water was entering the wall cavity and then migrating out the bottom to the carpet. I caulked the perimeter of the flange with silicone caulk and haven't had a leak since.
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Old 03-22-2023, 05:34 AM   #4
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If I knew I had a leaking window I would be pulling the frame and resealing

But.. this is a nice video that will give you some suggestions as well..

Lippert Window video: https://support.lci1.com/videos/leak...dow-inspection
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
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If I knew I had a leaking window I would be pulling the frame and resealing

But.. this is a nice video that will give you some suggestions as well..

Lippert Window video: https://support.lci1.com/videos/leak...dow-inspection
Nice video, thanks for posting a link.
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:19 AM   #6
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Most of the "window leaks/wet wall" problems I've seen are a result of the putty that seals the window to the sidewall of the trailer rather than a problem with the window construction.

That said, there is a TREMENDOUS amount of condensation associated with single pane windows when using any trailer in the "cool part of the year"... You will find pooling water in the trough at the bottom of the window, laying against the sloped edge of that trough and the glass.

As for the mattress being wet against the exterior wall, that has been a "condensation management problem" since trailers were first designed. Water will collect where there is no air circulation, and that area, where the mattress lays against the sidewall, is a perfect place for condensation to make things "ripe for soaking".... You'll also find it behind the dinette booth cushions where they lay against the trailer exterior wall and behind the sofa, where there's "minimal air movement"....

Some windows are designed to be installed in several positions, some horizontal and some vertical. On all RV windows, there is a small "weep port" along the bottom below the glass in that trough. On windows designed for multiple position installs, those "weep ports" are usually equipped with rubber "stoppers" in the weep ports. They should be removed after the window is installed, leaving those along the sides of the window. It's a "common problem" for the factory to forget to remove the "weep port plugs" and many (maybe most) PDI technicians don't return to that area, since there's no water from condensation in an unheated trailer. In other words, check your window "weep ports" to make sure those plugs have been removed from the bottom of the trough where the glass meets the metal.

Now, after all of that, if the plugs are removed and the mattress is relocated an inch or so from the exterior wall and you still have water entering, then I'd pull the window, clean all the old putty off the window frame and the trailer sidewall and run a new strip of BUTYL putty tape around the window frame flange (start and end the putty tape at the center of the bottom of the window frame) and reinstall the window, torqueing the screws evenly in a similar pattern to how you torque the lugs on the wheels (alternating top/bottom/right/left) so the window seats against the trailer sidewall "evenly at all locations"....
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:41 AM   #7
dalamarjj78
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Thanks everyone for the super helpful info (and video).

As usual the forum doesn't disappoint.

I checked the weep ports and see the top ones are still plugged but the bottom have had them removed. There does seem to be at least one spot where the putty sealing the window to the exterior wall of the trailer seemed to be in rough shape so I'm wondering if that's the issue.

I'll take a closer look and will likely end up pulling the window and resealing it to the trailer after we're back from our first camping trip of the season in a week and a half.

Stay tuned for more follow-up questions, I'm sure!
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:53 AM   #8
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Since were on the topic of windows, I have the flush mounted windows that seal really well, and I have used the same 3-IN-ONE RVcare Rubber Seal Conditioner on the seals that I use on my slideout seals. Is that product OK to use on the window seals as well, or is there a preferred product to treat window seals?
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Old 03-22-2023, 09:17 AM   #9
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If you pull the window, I wouldn’t use butyl or putty tape. We use Frost King brand foam sealant from Home Depot. Make sure the seam is at the bottom center and then apply RV rated sealant to the top and around the radius.
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Old 04-14-2023, 03:03 AM   #10
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An example of a leaky window - how would you repair?

We are traveling and it just poured for about an hour. Just by chance this is the first time this has happened in this trailer. I thought great time to do a leak check, especially one window where one of our "mouse deterrent" packages looked like it was either pee'd on by a mouse of got some water. Sure enough the sliding window behind out couch has a slight leak. If you press on the wall below the internal trim it will release the water. (pic attached). I just went out and examined the window outside and it is just like the others - the butyl seal looks decent/not compromised, no silicone, and the 'window channel drain' clear.

So I think I'm ending up pulling the window (or someone else will do it) upon return. So what would I do until then as rain is expected...put a bead of silicone along the top? around the corners of the window. (seems these videos do that).

The pic is looking down along the wall behind the couch. There was a single small stream so minimal that it did not 'bead'...when I pressed it released what I assume is pooling at the bottom of the window. I'm scratching my head a bit on how it is coming in as this at the center or a large sliding window and no streaming on either end/corner.
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Old 04-14-2023, 05:07 AM   #11
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So what would I do until then as rain is expected...put a bead of silicone along the top? around the corners of the window. (seems these videos do that).
It may not be considered "best practice" but that's what I ended up doing for my leaking window. I haven't had time to pull it yet and just got back from a camping trip where we had tons of rain. Seemed to do the trick as the window didn't leak.

So now I plan on pulling the window out and resealing it as time allows.
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Old 04-15-2023, 03:42 AM   #12
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Thanks, I went over the outside of the window with a "fine tooth comb" and couldn't find one problem with it. Other then a slight gap in the upper window connection. So I will be doing the same. If it does not rain again (to test) I will do a hose test when I get home and remove/reseal the window to ensure it is properly done.
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Old 04-15-2023, 07:21 AM   #13
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If you're on a "one or two day outing", why not just clean that window frame and the trailer sidewall with some alcohol or even Windex, put a strip of masking tape or even duct tape along the top of the frame and leave it until you get back home????

Adding a bead of silicone is something you're going to have to remove before you can pull the window to replace the putty and reinstall it.... The tape will be a lot easier to just "pull off the window and toss in the trash...

Just remember: DO NOT LEAVE THAT TAPE ON THE TRAILER FOR LONGER THAN A COUPLE OF DAYS, OR YOU"LL HAVE HELL CLEANING THE DRIED ADHESIVE OFF THE TRAILER !!!!! That said, it won't cause an issue if it's only going to be a couple of days.....
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Old 04-15-2023, 07:30 AM   #14
dalamarjj78
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Great point. I used silicone because I'm not sure how soon I'll have time to pull the window. So I needed a more long term solution.

I've used duct tape in the past for a short term fix for a leaking window and it worked great, too.
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Old 04-16-2023, 02:12 PM   #15
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Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately we are away for a while so the tape isn't a solution. We have had two storm since sealing the top of the window and the situation has not repeated itself...So most likely a complete reseal is the real solution!
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