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Old 10-19-2015, 07:21 PM   #1
Gadgetmonster
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Furnace not keeping up 2015 Cougar 33res

Picked up our new 2015 Cougar xlite 33res a couple weeks ago. We decided to spend the weekend in our driveway before storing it for the winter. It got down to around 43 outside when I noticed it was chilly in the trailer. it was 68 inside. At 41 outside it was 64 inside. Bathroom all closed up in the middle of the rv was toasty with warm air. Bedroom had warm air but less flow than the bath. Kitchen was pitiful. Slight bit of warm but little air flow. I had to get an electric heater from the garage. Tripple checked settings on the thermostat. Had it set on heat, auto, 74. Fired up all the burners on the stove momentarily and all has plenty of flame.

I was plugged into a 20 amp duplex outlet in my garage... but I doubt that would make any difference in temp or air flow.

Anyone else have trouble with the furnace keeping up?

This unit is advertised as having their Polar Pack that allows you to camp longer into the season... might work in Florida but not in Indiana.

Looking for comments before I haul it back to Walnut Ridge RV.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:10 PM   #2
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You might want to check the furnace ducts to make sure there are no kinks or sharp bends, no loose connections or left over construction debris in the ductwork. While you are at it, also have a look at the outlets on your furnace to make sure you don't have any open, unconnected outlets that are simply blowing hot air into the space around the furnace.

I wouldn't put too much faith in the "Polar Pack" designation.

Since the furnace runs off 12VDC and propane, being hooked up to your household 110vac 20A duplex has no effect on the operation of the furnace.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:14 PM   #3
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Sounds like you may have a kinked, cut or smashed duct.

Lots of things affect airflow like length of runs, size of duct and number of vents on each run. There are also knockouts in the furnace and discs are inserted in the unused ones. Maybe one fell out. I would take it back for a flow test.

I have found smashed lines, cut lines and "plugs" not in place on the furnace. Your under warranty so let the dealer deal with it.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:44 AM   #4
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I will take it to the dealer... but if it were not under warranty how would you check these things? Remove the entire under panel? I like the idea if the underpanel but it sure looks like it limits your maintenance access in many ways.
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:49 AM   #5
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I've removed the coroplast just enough to inspect with a flashlight numerous times. Then if I see an issue, I will take as many screws out as I need to give me access to the problem. Not fun when you've got a single piece 20 feet long.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:30 AM   #6
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The furnace should be able to keep up. We usually turn ours on to 68 and it runs for awhile and then will cycle to maintain it. Yesterday morning it was 31 in the trailer so I set the heat to 50 just to get it above freezing and in an hour or two I went out and turned the heat off as it had reached 50. As stated, check the ducts. Start by removing the covers inside and look in with a flashlight and mirror.
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:43 AM   #7
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I had similar symptoms on our 23RB and addressed them as follows:

* removed the coroplast fasteners along one corner of the rear of the TT and checked for loose connections, kinks and excess duct tubing - no kinks or bad connections were present

* removed approximately 4 extra feet of duct running to our bedroom area while keeping enough length to run the duct along the grey water tank which seemed to be the original intention

* I "balanced" the air flow to each area by installing and adjusting dampers at the furnace outlet along with aluminum elbows
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/alb...pictureid=3637

* while I was at it, I added a duct and register to the bath area
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:10 PM   #8
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Last night it was 35 and I had it set to 67. It cycled on a few times during the night but the cycles were short ones. Last winter I stayed in it as cold as 15 and it kept it plenty warm. I'm sure the dealer will find the problem.
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:18 PM   #9
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Gadgetmonster, Howdy;

Another candidate for some "Lite" reading, one of our members wrote
a very through how-to for sorting out the underbelly, and assorted items
and such that are found "Up in there"... get comfortable, and enjoy.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=19807

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Old 10-21-2015, 06:04 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the good info. I will try and respond when I have a resolution.
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Old 10-21-2015, 06:45 AM   #11
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Unless you're camped off power, I've always found it easier to supplement with space heaters. If you're concerned about safety, the radiator type.

This isn't to say that your furnace shouldn't keep up, but the furnace burns through propane very quickly... Especially if camped somewhere for a while, I prefer as much electric heat as I can get so I'm not making a propane run.
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Old 10-21-2015, 06:01 PM   #12
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Gadgetmonster

We have a 30RLi, same size unit and the furnace can keep up.

Before you lower the cloroplast stick your cell phone/small camera down the floor registers to take a peek around. Doing this I found a torn duct feeding the rear of the trailer. Confirmed it by pulling a few screws out and looking in the air space between the floor and coroplast. Even so the furnace keeps us warm overall.

However, I agree about electric heat vs propane heat. When plugged in to power we use the fireplace and a radatior heater in the bed room. When dry camping there not much choice but be warned, the furnace will burn through lots of gas and battery...

Oh ya, the polar package is pretty much just a sticker on your rig don't expect to see much insulation if you look above the coroplast.

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Old 10-21-2015, 06:36 PM   #13
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Since we take our cats with us, we use oil filled radiators. That way there isn't any danger of burning fur and the gawd awful smell that goes with it. I'm not sure but I believe they draw less amps so it's putting less strain on the barely adequate wiring.
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Old 10-21-2015, 08:18 PM   #14
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The furnace shoüld keep up, so there is issues. As stated drop a partial side of the colorplast and take pics or video down vents. You'll find it. You've said bad air flow at a particular vent, theres your starting point.
I also use the electric heater trick, but I find it better for the furnace to get it to temp then the electric heater keeps it the rest of the night. Ive froze all night for the electric to get it to temp
If at a campgrounf with electric, the eletric heat is free, while propane costs you.
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:21 AM   #15
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Great advice on using electric heat. I have a ceramic heater that does a great job.. perfect for this application. One in bedroom and one in living room should keep propane use to a minimum.

Our trailer is only a few weeks old so I called the dealer and have an appointment on Nov. 7th to take it in. I have asked them to look over the entire underside while they have the plastic underbelly off. Water, sewer, electric etc. Fix it now while it is exposed. I was keeping the trailer inside... so now i have to winterize it so it can sit at the dealership, outside.

Going to look at their slide out covers while there dropping it off. Might have them install 3 of them. Any words of wisdom on which ones to buy? I might think of it as a do it yourself project but they are really long and may be a bit more than a couple guys can manage.
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadgetmonster View Post



Going to look at their slide out covers while there dropping it off. Might have them install 3 of them. Any words of wisdom on which ones to buy? I might think of it as a do it yourself project but they are really long and may be a bit more than a couple guys can manage.

Slide toppers are a love them or hate them kind of thing. I don't have any and don't plan on getting any. I can still climb the ladder and sweep before retracting my slides.

I have installed lots of them and can't really say there is a brand to stay away from.
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:56 AM   #17
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I'm going to agree with those that have said that you probably have a kink in your pipes as the furnace should be-able to keep up.
As for heaters the problem with oil filled radiators is that they take awhile to heat up and when they are hot it feels too hot.
I've had every type of heater in here and this ceramic oscillating heater is the best one I've ever had as it distributes the heat evenly.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:29 AM   #18
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I hear that they recently dropped the ladder on the Cougar XLites and mine does not have one. So I would have to pack a ladder to be able to clean. The other concern is in a heavy rain or if you had to pack up and leave in the rain you would be forced to pull some rain in as you retract the slides. I know there is a sweep in the top but when I sight down the long roof of the slides there are dips where the roof is not perfectly flat... these may pool water. I have intentions on keeping this unit for many years so I want to keep as much moisture outside as I can. Rain protection is important to me.
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:44 PM   #19
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Howdy All;

My 2 pennies about the slide toppers.
I do have one, came with the trailer when I bought it.
Living in the Desert Southwest I find that it helps keep
the slide section a tad bit cooler when the sun is pounding
down on it in the Summertime (we hit triple digits quite often
that time of the year). I've yet to figure out the best way to
keep the sun off the rear window (12 sq.ft.), and the big
window beside the dinette (15.75 sq.ft.), talk about a sauna!
but ... that's for another thread some other time...

hankaye
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:35 AM   #20
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Dropped the RV off this weekend for warranty work and agreed to have them install 3 slide toppers. Two 150" and one 82". Carefree basic model, black, $1500 installed.

They will research and repair the furnace air flow issue.
Add fasteners to the pedestal table so I don't accidentally pull it up out of the floor.
Adjust the slide door from the bedroom to the Loo. Travels too far and pops out of the lower guide track.
Add screws in all 3 roof vent screens. They are not snapping in securely... and there are no screws in the holes that seem to be the obvious fix.
Repair the antenna crank...crank and base don't line up.

Will take a couple weeks. Let's see how this goes.
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