My TV shuts off.

[Steve S]

I'm thinking it's an antenna/signal thing now as with all the wind and rain the TV is on and off all the time.
I went up on the roof and the antenna is very wiggly and the cable wire seems to be very brittle.
I'm at the conclusion the the main TV needs a really good signal but I still can't figure out why turning 110 things on make the TV flicker? Very strange!

[denverpilot]

RF noise from motors, etc? A converter going bad throwing RF noise?

Does it only happen on your weakest channels? Most digital TVs have a signal strength meter for the channel you're watching buried in the setup menu somewhere. See if you can correlate it to signal strength dropping.

If you have old/brittle cable, water ingress into the cable will make an already weak signal even weaker. Then a noise source starts up, poof... Now too weak to receive.

Just a thought...

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by denverpilot

RF noise from motors, etc? A converter going bad throwing RF noise?

Does it only happen on your weakest channels? Most digital TVs have a signal strength meter for the channel you're watching buried in the setup menu somewhere. See if you can correlate it to signal strength dropping.

If you have old/brittle cable, water ingress into the cable will make an already weak signal even weaker. Then a noise source starts up, poof... Now too weak to receive.

Just a thought...

If the converter was going bad is there a way to test it? The signal is great on the station I'm watching, the space heater kicked in and the TV went off. I turned off the space heater and the TV went back on.
I ran another power source to it as suggested and still no change.
Another thing I noticed was since I've changed all the lights to LED I can't hear the converter kick in. There's no fan noise or anything now?

[denverpilot]

Easiest test would be to monitor AC voltage. Converter could be dropping the AC voltage low enough to reset the TV. That could be converter, loose connections to battery, weak battery, number of things. Just have to discount them one by one individually. Can you run an extension cord to the trailer just for the TV and then fire up the converter and see if the TV drops? That'd tell you if it's input power to the TV getting hammered, or if it's an RF signal/noise problem.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Have you looked in to the possibility
that your DW or your neighbor as a remote
that works on the same frequency?????

hankaye

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by hankaye

Howdy All;

Have you looked in to the possibility
that your DW or your neighbor as a remote
that works on the same frequency?????

hankaye

What's a DW?

[JRTJH]

Here's the list as compiled by the forum administrator:

Here is a list of common Internet Acronyms. I would use this as a starting poitn and add remove fromthis list.


AFAIC = As far as I'm concerned
AFAIK = As Far As I Know
AFK = Away From Keyboard
AKA = Also Known As
ASAP = As Soon As Possible
BAK = Back At Keyboard
BBL = Be Back Later
B/C = Because
BFN = Bye For Now =
BFO = Blinding Flash of the Obvious
BO = Buffer (Brain) Overload =
BOHICA = Bend Over, Here It Comes Again!
BOKYAG = Bend Over and Kiss Your A** Goodbye
BRB = Be Right Back
BTSOOM = beats the stuffing out of me
BTW = By The Way
CU = See You
CUL8R = See You Later
CYA = Cover Your Arse
DITYID = Did I Tell You I'm Distressed?
EFLA = Extended Four Letter Acronym!
FAQ = Frequently Asked Question
FC = Fingers Crossed
FCFS = First Come First Served
FEAR = Forget Everything And Run
FIIOH = Forget It, I'm Outta Here
FMV = Full Motion Video
FUBAR = Fouled-Up Beyond All Recognition
FUCT = Failed Under Continuous Testing
FWIW = For What It's Worth
FYI = For Your Information
GMTA = Great Minds Think Alike
GTRM = Going To Read Mail =
GR&D = Grinning, Running, & Ducking
HSIK = How Should I Know
HTH = Happy To Help
HTH = Hope This Helps
IAE = In Any Event
IANA... = I am not a ...
IBK = Idiot Behind Keyboard
IIRC = If I Recall Correctly
IITYWTMWYBMAD = If I Tell You What This Means Will You Buy Me A Drink?
ILF = I'll Look Forward
IMCO = In My Considered Opinion
IMHO = In My Humble Opinion
IMNSHO = In My Not So Humble Opinion
IMO = In My Opinion
INAL = I'm Not A Lawyer
IOW = In Other Words
IRC = Internet Relay Chat
IRL = In Real Life
IYKWIM = If You Know What I mean
JFYI = Just For Your Information
J/K = Just Kidding
L8R = Later
LMAO = Laughing My Arse Off
LMKOAP = Let Me Know Of Any Problems
LOL = Laugh(ing) Out Loud
LOEL = Laugh(ing) Out Extremely Loud
MIL-TFD-41 = Make It Like The Freaking Drawing For Once
MMP = More Money, Please
ML = Mailing List
NBD = No Big Deal
NFW = No Freaking Way
NIFOC = Nude In Front Of Computer
NIFOK = Naked In Front of the Keyboard
NOYB = None Of Your Business
NRN = No Reply Necessary
OIC = Oh, I See!
OOH = Out Of Hand
OOTB = Out Of The Box
OTL = Out To Lunch
OTOH = On The Other Hand
PITA = Pain In The Arse
PMFJI = Pardon Me For Jumping In
PMJI = Pardon My Jumping In
POV = Point Of View
PSX = Sony Playstation
PTB = Powers That Be
PU = That Stinks!
ROFL = Rolling On Floor Laughing
ROFLWMP = Rolling on the Floor Wetting My Pants
ROTF = Rolling On The Floor
ROTFL = Rolling On the Floor Laughing
ROTFLMAO = Rolling On The Floor Laughing My Arse Off
ROTFLOL = Rolled on the Floor Laughing Out Loud
RSN = Real Soon Now
RTFM = Read The Freajubg Manual (or Message)
RTM = Read The Manual (or Message)
SEP = Someone Else's Problem
SGI = She'd Get it!
SITD = Still In The Dark
SLAP = Sounds Like A Plan
SNAFU = Situation Normal- All Fouled-Up
SOL = Smiling Out Loud
TANJ = There Ain't No Justice
TANSTAAFL = There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch
TBH = To Be Honest
TIA = Thanks In Advance
TIC = Tongue In Cheek
TLA = Three-Letter Acronyms
TLTBT = Too Ludicrous To Be True!
TPTB = The Powers That Be
TTFN = Ta Ta For Now
TTYL = Talk To You Later
Txs = Thanks or Texas
VPL = Visible Pantie Line
WGFF? = Who Gives A Flying Flood?
WIC = Where I'm Concerned
WIMP = Washed-up Information Media Phobe
WOA = Work Of Art
WOB = Waste of Bandwidth
WRT = with respect to
WTHIGO = What The Heck Is Going On?
WTH = What The Heck (Hell)
WYSIWYG = What you see is what you get
YAM = Yet Another Meeting
YCHT = You can have them
YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary

And another by a member with quite a bit of "tech savvy":

5ver = 5th wheel trailer
AKA = Also Known As
ASAP = As Soon As Possible
BFN = Bye For Now
BTW = By The Way
CU = See You
CUL = See You Later
DH = designated husband or darling husband
DW = same only substitute wife for husband
FAQ = Frequently Asked Questions
FYI = For Your Information
GMTA = Great Minds Think Alike
HTH = Happy To Help or Hope This Helps
IAE = In Any Event
IMHO = In My Humble Opinion
IMO = In My Opinion
IOW = In Other Words
JMHO = Just My Humble Opinion
LOL = Laugh(ing) Out Loud
ML = Mailing List
NBD = No Big Deal
NRN = No Reply Necessary
OIC = Oh, I See!
OTL = Out To Lunch
POV = Point Of View
PTB = Powers That Be
ROFL = Rolling On Floor Laughing
RTM = Read The Manual (or Message)
SITD = Still In The Dark
SLAP = Sounds Like A Plan
SOL = Smiling Out Loud
TBH = To Be Honest
TIA = Thanks In Advance
TIC = Tongue In Cheek
TT = Travel Trailer
TV = Tow Vehicle

Please refrain from using acronyms that allude to crude and vulgar language. The forum rules still apply even to acronyms.

[PARAPTOR]

Thanks John
My generation. "Decoder Rings"

[Steve S]

So what does "DW = same only substitute wife for husband" have to do with my question?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Steve S

What's a DW?

^^ your question,

below it: the answer plus the answers to the "rest of the list"

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by hankaye

Howdy All;

Have you looked in to the possibility
that your DW or your neighbor as a remote
that works on the same frequency?????

hankaye

Thanks for the answers and the list John now can you figure out what he/she means by this answer

[JRTJH]

If I can interpret for Hankaye, "Maybe your wife or a neighbor has a remote control that's tuned to the same frequency and when they are using it at their place, it is affecting your TV."

John

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If I can interpret for Hankaye, "Maybe your wife or a neighbor has a remote control that's tuned to the same frequency and when they are using it at their place, it is affecting your TV."

John

I never thought about that, I guess different frequencies from a TV or even the wireless connections could affect things.

[hankaye]

SteveS, Howdy;

I'm a HE.
What made me think about another remote was remembering how my
Dad would drive around town clicking his remote after he had a Garage door
opener installed. He wanted to see how many "Others" were on the same
frequency. It was surprising how many doors he could get to go up or down.

hankaye

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by hankaye

SteveS, Howdy;

I'm a HE.
What made me think about another remote was remembering how my
Dad would drive around town clicking his remote after he had a Garage door
opener installed. He wanted to see how many "Others" were on the same
frequency. It was surprising how many doors he could get to go up or down.

hankaye

Hi hankaye, yes I know you're a guy but my wife was typing this for me while I was thinking about things and I don't know what she was thinking
Yes over the years I've done the same thing with the garage door openers and it's pretty amazing that from the factory how many are set the same.
I think you have a really good point though as my brother dropped by today and right away said that my TV is high def and it's really not made for the signals from an antenna.
He figures with all the wireless that I have in here that the TV is getting confused about what signals to pick up. This really makes sense as now that I think about it the TV in the bedroom really isn't on until night and all wireless is shut down.
His solution is to bring over a sat system and see what happens then.
I hope this cures it!

[hankaye]

SteveS. Howdy;

You may only need a 'Wingman" adapter for your antenna.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-wingman/44021

hankaye

[bobbecky]

I just read through all the posts on this problem, but never saw anyone suggest checking all your 120 volt connections at the breakers inside your panel in the trailer, and also checking the connections in all the outlets of the circuit going to the 120 volt TV, not just the outlet at the TV. You may have a slightly loose or burnt connection anywhere in the trailer going to the TV, and this could cause just enough of a voltage drop to turn the TV off, especially when, as you indicated, when the water heater was running on AC, there is going to be a slight voltage drop, and that drop added to a bad connection in the 120 volt system would/could cause what you are seeing. To check the connections, I would suggest disconnecting from 120 volt power, or shore power so you are working safely. Also be sure to check all the neutral connections as well. These will be the white wires. They can also cause these problems.

[PARAPTOR]

Originally Posted by bobbecky

I just read through all the posts on this problem, but never saw anyone suggest checking all your 120 volt connections at the breakers inside your panel in the trailer, and also checking the connections in all the outlets of the circuit going to the 120 volt TV, not just the outlet at the TV. You may have a slightly loose or burnt connection anywhere in the trailer going to the TV, and this could cause just enough of a voltage drop to turn the TV off, especially when, as you indicated, when the water heater was running on AC, there is going to be a slight voltage drop, and that drop added to a bad connection in the 120 volt system would/could cause what you are seeing. To check the connections, I would suggest disconnecting from 120 volt power, or shore power so you are working safely. Also be sure to check all the neutral connections as well. These will be the white wires. They can also cause these problems.

In previous posts. By John an I addressed the 120VAC by disconnecting the Shore Cable. I then followed based on results with a detailed process of adding addition components until the problem was seen again.

Pretty simple prodpcedure to isolate a problem, start disconnecting things till problem goes away then start addind things back until problem comes back.

Honestly not sure if that plan or any other plan was followed? To me seems like jumping all around.

Again my 2 cents

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by PARAPTOR

In previous posts. By John an I addressed the 120VAC by disconnecting the Shore Cable. I then followed based on results with a detailed process of adding addition components until the problem was seen again.

Pretty simple prodpcedure to isolate a problem, start disconnecting things till problem goes away then start addind things back until problem comes back.

Honestly not sure if that plan or any other plan was followed? To me seems like jumping all around.

Again my 2 cents

The problem with unplugged the hydro is that the main TV runs on 120 along with other things so how can I turn things on one at a time with no power?
As I've stated before the TV works fine as I've taken it back in to the house and no problems.
It's while the trailer is plugged in and certain 120 appliances are turned on that the problems arise.
Two things that always affect it: The space heater and the water heater.

[PARAPTOR]

Originally Posted by Steve S

The problem with unplugged the hydro is that the main TV runs on 120 along with other things so how can I turn things on one at a time with no power?
As I've stated before the TV works fine as I've taken it back in to the house and no problems.
It's while the trailer is plugged in and certain 120 appliances are turned on that the problems arise.
Two things that always affect it: The space heater and the water heater.

Steve

The plan I sent to you address your questions as well as the overall plan. OKAY lets go over this, to answer your specific question. John and I had suggested that you disconnect the shore power cable and power the 120VAC TV, which is the TV having these problems, from an extension cord plugged into your house. That is not the same as you carrying the TV into the house and trying the TV in there (different environment). You want to keep the TV in the environment where you are have the problem. such as connecting it to your trailer coaxial wiring, antenna amplifier, wiring up to the antenna, and your trailers antenna, etc.

What you have now as a starting place is is basically no AC devices powered such as no converter, no HW, no possible 115VAC breaker interaction, no space heater. Basically in this state you have the TV you know worked in the house connected via trailer coaxial cables to amplified antenna on the roof. Your batteries powering the antenna amplifier and other 12V devices in the trailer.

OKAY now if the TV works fine after watching it for awhile, I think we can agree that your trailer coaxial cabling/connectors, antenna, power amplifier, etc. are fine. Then proceed step by step as identified in my plan adding things. Notice I said step by step watching the TV after each step.

Now if the TV did not work fine connected to the house as described above you would start to examine your cabling antenna, amplifier etc. Until you get the TV to work fine you do not have to go any further with the plan. When you are chasing down a problem you need to isolate it from as many other components as you can. Once it works then start adding other components.

Here since my hobby is working with dogs, it is like starting to train a dog. You do not try to train it outside with a lot of distractions when you start. You train in your house, then and only then you start to introduce distractions, then out in the yard the two of you, then practice say in a pet store, then near a play ground with dogs an kids around.

Hope this example is not considered high jacking

Hope this helps