No shore power

sleeepr · 07-04-2017, 06:32 PM

New trailer - Springdale Summerland Series, took it out four weeks ago to check everything, and everything was good. Brought it home, didn't plug into the 110V for the first couple weeks. Plugged it in to keep the battery topped off, but didn't check anything at that time, however, I did note that the pump was working when I was messing with the tank emptying it out.

Since that time, I have added a battery cut-out switch. Tonight, checking a few thing before taking it on the first real trip in two days, I find that the battery has drawn down completely, and the shore power is not working at all. Good house circuit, cord is functional, adapter shows continuity - but nothing going to the rig.

12V side works fine with trickle charger on battery.

Fuses seem to all show good continuity.

Any ideas?

Thanks

**JRTJH** · 07-04-2017, 06:53 PM

Have you checked the reverse polarity fuses on the converter? It sounds like the only thing that is "different from last trip" is that you installed a cutoff switch. It's possible that you touched the negative cable to the positive side of the battery which would "instantaneously" blow the reverse polarity fuses. It's a protective circuit on the converter which only has power applied if the battery cables are reversed.

I'd suggest checking the battery cables, make sure they are installed properly, BLACK is positive and WHITE is negative. Then check the reverse polarity fuses. If they are good, then remove the cutoff switch and see if the trailer is operational without it (it may be bad).

Good Luck

**chuckster57** · 07-04-2017, 07:00 PM

If I read his post right nothing 110V is working.

You need to verify VOLTAGE at the house. Then if that's ok, go inside the trailer and look at the microwave. Is the display lit? If not then you need to go to the breaker panel and make sure the breakers are not tripped. Come back with the results and we can go from there.

Johnny's Journey · 07-04-2017, 09:01 PM

Subscribed

sleeepr · 07-04-2017, 09:49 PM

Thanks for the quick response. Alas, fireworks and family got in the way of following this up tonight. Chuckster you're correct, nothing 110 is working, as far as I saw - didn't make note of the mic display, but I don't think it was lit up. 12V side all works when connected to tow vehicle or trickle charger. Switch is functional - everything dark in off position. Did not reverse polarity or short across - kept cables separate, simply disconnected negative from battery and connected it to switch, then new cable, switch back to negative.

I'll hook back up to 110 after work tomorrow and check out the mic display.

More to come.

sleeepr · 07-05-2017, 01:00 PM

OK, chuckster57. Went out before work, plugged in shore power to home 110, and it works now. FML. Unplugged, went to work, plugged in this afternoon and it's still functional, normal as far as I can tell. I now have the battery switch in off position, with trickle charger running. Microwave display is on. I tried AC, it tried to start, but quit and microwave display disappeared. AC off, microwave beeped and display returned. Heat/AC fan runs as long as I don't try to cool. figure the household 110 won't handle the compressor.

If you recall, I'm the one who posted 6-8 weeks ago that I was having problems with the GFIC but while outside the rig could hear a repeating click at times near the shore power entrance. That quit, and I figured out my GFIC problem (operator error), so I haven't thought anything more about it.

Does the 110V side shut down if the battery has drained? I was under the impression that one could still use all systems with shore power only, just wouldn't have any 12V when not connected to either 110 or tow vehicle.

I guess if we have further problems, will have to get it to the dealer for diagnostics and probably warranty service.

Bob Landry · 07-05-2017, 04:16 PM

Your battery, switch, and DC side of the converter have absolutely nothing to do with whether or not you have shore power. The converter has a circuit breaker that feeds the converter and that's it for the relatonship between the two.'

If the AC appliances are not working your only choices are, bad pedestal, bad power cable, bad 2 pole circuit breaker where it connects to the converter. or a loose wire somewhere in that chain.. It's just like your house. The main power is fed to the circuit breaker panel and then distributed to the individual circuits via breakers.. Not rocket science.

sleeepr · 07-20-2017, 06:37 PM

OK. We'll revisit this one time. Camping trip went off without a hitch. Works just like the book says it should plugged into 30A. Battery held up. All is good. Back home, when plugged into 20A, on/off/on/off... There is an audible click heard when outside when it cycles. Will be asking the dealer about it next week. At least all works with 30A.

**JRTJH** · 07-20-2017, 07:34 PM

If you're trying to run your trailer on a 20 amp circuit with a 15/30 amp adapter to plug your shore power cord into the house 110 outlet, the problem is you don't have enough power availability in the house circuit.

As you said in today's post, you plugged in, the microwave worked, as did "everything else that's 110, so you turned on the air conditioner, it tried to start, the microwave beeped and after you turned the A/C off, the microwave started working again. What happened (I think) is that you were using too much power and the voltage dropped too low, probably to around 90 VAC. The microwave won't work on that low of an input voltage, so the processer in the microwave shut itself down to protect the oven.

If you have a voltmeter, plug it into any of the trailer circuits, connect to the house outlet and read the voltage, then start turning things in the trailer on and you'll see the voltage drop, while watching the voltmeter, turn on the air conditioner and as soon as the compressor tries to start, you'll see the voltmeter take a significant drop at the same time the microwave beeps....

You don't have the capacity in the outlet you're plugging the trailer into. And, as you stated, it works well when connected to a 30 amp receptacle in the campground......

If you're planning to run anything more than the refrigerator and the power converter when plugged in at home, you might want to wire a 30 amp receptacle from your house breaker box to a convenient wall on the outside of your house near the trailer parking area.

ADDED: On a 15 or 20 amp "house outlet" about all you can operate is the refrigerator and the power converter. If you turn on the water heater electric element you'll probably start having problems with low voltage as you will with turning on the microwave and/or the air conditioner.

**sourdough** · 07-20-2017, 07:54 PM

Sounds very much like you have a problem with the power coming to the RV. A VOM/multimeter is an RVers friend.

sleeepr · 07-21-2017, 02:43 AM

Problem is that it cycles off, pops back on, off,..., randomly - nothing is turned on/operating. Draw should be less than 5A? Battery is even disconnected, so not taking charge from converter. I'd like to be able to run the reefer to cool down prior to trip, but have to do it on gas. I'm just happy that all works well on 30A.

Johnny's Journey · 07-21-2017, 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleeepr

Problem is that it cycles off, pops back on, off,..., randomly - nothing is turned on/operating. Draw should be less than 5A? Battery is even disconnected, so not taking charge from converter. I'd like to be able to run the reefer to cool down prior to trip, but have to do it on gas. I'm just happy that all works well on 30A.

Understand. But something is happening at the "20 amp outlet". So as not to have to go back and reread all threads related to this issue I'll ask these question's. Sorry if been asked before. 1-Is the 20amp outlet dedicated ? 2-Is it a 20 amp breaker and if yes, is there a possible other leg coming off it you can't see within the breaker panel? 3-Is it truly a 20 amp circuit (see #2 again) ? 4-Is that outlet wired with 14 gauge of 12 gauge wire and how long is that run ? 5-Is the polarity correct at the outlet ?

Johnny's Journey · 07-20-2017, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleeepr

OK. We'll revisit this one time. Camping trip went off without a hitch. Works just like the book says it should plugged into 30A. Battery held up. All is good. Back home, when plugged into 20A, on/off/on/off... There is an audible click heard when outside when it cycles. Will be asking the dealer about it next week. At least all works with 30A.

20 isn't 30.

Bob Landry · 07-25-2017, 03:37 AM

It's the wire that carries the rating, not the outlet. The reason for the t-slot in the 20a outlet is to indicate that the circuit is wired with #12. 20A device plugs will come with a T slot pin so that it cannot be plugged into a 15A outlet. There is no reason not to use a 20A outlet to it's capacity.

Bostongone · 07-25-2017, 06:05 AM

Something that has not been mentioned is the question of if the hot water circuit breaker has been turned off or not. It is good practice to always snap the breaker off when you prepare to leave a campsite and to turn it on after hookup to the pedestal at the next site. The heater load may be keeping the AC from starting?

sleeepr · 07-25-2017, 11:10 AM

I have to think (hope) that the issue is with the home power supply. All systems are off - water heater switch, no heat/air running, fringe off. even lights off. Audible click heard outside when when power comes and goes. Microwave display will light up, then off, gas detector will do same. These are the only systems active. But, as I mentioned, everything functional with 30A hookup.

B-O-B'03 · 07-25-2017, 12:51 PM

An EMS, from progressive, will tell you exactly what kind of current draw the trailer has and what the incoming voltage voltage is.

It will also prevent power from being supplied to the coach, if the incoming voltage is too low as well as a host of other safe guards.

A worthy modification to any RV.

-Brian

sleeepr · 07-25-2017, 01:43 PM

This might be the problem. I had an EMS installed by the dealer.

Outback 325BH · 07-25-2017, 01:53 PM

If all is well when connected to a 30 amp pedestal, the the problem is with the home hookup.

If the breaker serving the home receptacle never trips, the problem is with voltage drop.

Not knowing the cords in use to connect the camper to the home receptacle, I can only assume there is an extension cord in play here.

Too little gauge (bigger the number) and or too long of an extension cord and you will have too much voltage drop for the current you are trying to pull.

Again, if the home receptacle's breaker never tripped, it is not an over current situation.

Depending on the age of the home and how far this receptacle is located from the main panel, it could have some of its own voltage drop issues. Connecting the camper to it would only compound the voltage drop.

Using a 12 or 10 gauge extension cord, as short as possible, is the best you can do... if your camper's 30 amp cord can't reach on its own.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sleeepr · 07-25-2017, 02:10 PM

That is the most likely scenario. Heavy home extension (14ga) but long. Outlet is in the outbuilding away from the main service as well. At least this gives me something solid to go on, and less likely a gremlin in the rig. Thanks to all.

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