blowing 15 amp fuse in my new2026 keystone cougar

[Jupiterstar]

Repeatedly blows. Everything dc powered is out. converter is ok. Battery is charged. Electric panel has been checked. Any suggestions?

[Tbos]

Something is shorting to ground. Are you on shore power? Make sure the power you are getting from shore is good with now ground faults etc... Not sure how to do it but you might see if you can figure out how to isolate different items one at a time to see if that makes a difference. For instance pull the radio out and unplug it. If you have an electric jack disconnect it. If your light switches are ok make sure they are all off. Make sure your fans are off. Make sure your WH is off and or disconnected. Make sure your battery is correctly connected. Good luck.


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[Jupiterstar]

thanks, I have tried many of those things without finding it. I also have a repair company looking at it and they have not been able to find the problem yet either.

[xrated]

Usually the quickest way to find something like that is to remove all loads (circuits) that the power source feeds, then add them back in one at a time.

Is the fuse blowing instantly, or is there a a delay before the fuse blows. Instant usually means something is shorted or grounded. A time delay before a fuse blows is usually a sign of circuit overload....either an individual circuit or the sum total of all circuits.

Oh, and BTW....if your camper is a 2026 model, it's probably just a "beta" version and they haven't worked out all the bugs yet!

[deadeye]

If this is the main DC fuse it is usually higher then 15 amps.

[SAABDOCTOR]

Which fuse is blowing?

[Jupiterstar]

Originally Posted by SAABDOCTOR

Which fuse is blowing?

Its a 15 amp fuse that my refrigerator, water heater, radio /cd, half of my control panel, lights in main and front bedroom are on.

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[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by Jupiterstar

Its a 15 amp fuse that my refrigerator, water heater, radio /cd, half of my control panel, lights in main and front bedroom are on.

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Sounds like a lot on one 15 amp fuse. I was sure you were going to say the furnace....

[Jupiterstar]

Its a 15 watt amp blowing. no breakers blowing and it's instant. As soon as I put in a new amp it blows.

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[Jupiterstar]

l am in a campsite on 50 amp

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[chuckster57]

Sounds like a dead short in either a 12V supply that goes into a slide, or a ceiling light full of debris...seen both.

[Jupiterstar]

I have a coffee pot under one of my led lamps. I told the guy to check it but he does not think steam from coffee pot would have caused a fuse to blow. what do you think?

[Jupiterstar]

The furnace turns on them off. So no ignited fuel for lp tanks. so furnace and ac turn on, the thermostat works. A/C works.

[chuckster57]

I wouldn't rule anything out until it was checked.

[SAABDOCTOR]

Here goes. If it's under warranty leave it alone and let the dealer fix it. If you must do it yourself, here is how i go about finding and fixing electrical problems. start at the begining of the circut. the fuze. We know there is power and no problems. move to the last (farthest) from the fuse load and un plug it does the proplem still exist? if yes go the the load 1/2 way from the fuse to the farthest. un plug it still have the problem? if yes split it in 1/2 again until the fuse doesn't blow. now you have narowed it down to a small area. split that ares in half and keep doing that till you come to the load that doesn't blow the fuse. put and amp meter in the plug +12v and ground if you don't show a high current draw the the load (light or module is bad) good luck take your time. also check your slides the harness should have flex point built in but flex points do break from moving in and out so look there for issues. when finished enjoy several adult beverages and pat your self on the back!

[xrated]

Originally Posted by SAABDOCTOR

Here goes. If it's under warranty leave it alone and let the dealer fix it. If you must do it yourself, here is how i go about finding and fixing electrical problems. start at the begining of the circut. the fuze. We know there is power and no problems. move to the last (farthest) from the fuse load and un plug it does the proplem still exist? if yes go the the load 1/2 way from the fuse to the farthest. un plug it still have the problem? if yes split it in 1/2 again until the fuse doesn't blow. now you have narowed it down to a small area. split that ares in half and keep doing that till you come to the load that doesn't blow the fuse. put and amp meter in the plug +12v and ground if you don't show a high current draw the the load (light or module is bad) good luck take your time. also check your slides the harness should have flex point built in but flex points do break from moving in and out so look there for issues. when finished enjoy several adult beverages and pat your self on the back!

The problem with using your method is that you are most likely going to blow several fuses before finding it. With my method, all the loads are removed BEFORE you put the fuse in.....then start adding devices until one of them pops the fuse. The last device added (the one that caused the fuse to blow) is where you go to check for a problem.

[SAABDOCTOR]

I use a circut breaker in place of the fuse. I am cheap!:d

[xrated]

Originally Posted by SAABDOCTOR

I use a circut breaker in place of the fuse. I am cheap!:d

I know that we all have breakers somewhere....in our house electrical panel, in the RV or motorhome, boats, etc....you name it, breakers a more common than fuses. So, having said that, one of the issues with using breakers is....when should I replace a breaker? Molded case breakers generally operate with two types of trips....thermal and magnetic. A thermal trip is associated with a current overload.... i.e. your 15A breaker has a 17A load places on it. Depending on the trip curve that the breaker has been designed with, XX amount of time will elapse before the breaker trips out and opens the circuit. Everyone resets the breaker and gives it another try. If the overload condition is still present, the breaker will trip again. Now, the magnetic trip part of the breaker.....This magnetic trip (M.T.) is the part of the breaker that trips when it senses a fault condition....a direct short or ground of the item that is being fed. Generally speaking, a breaker can be reset after a thermal trip, but it is pretty sketchy to keep using a breaker that has been through a magnetic trip or fault. So....how do you know which happened? The short answer is...you dont!....unless you reset it and try again. If there is some time between reset and trip (let's say a few to several seconds....maybe a minute), you most likely are experiencing an overload. Instantaneous tripping after reset is most likely a ground or short between the pos. and neg. or in an Alternating current situation...phase to neutral or ground. If you experience an instant trip (think magnetic and shorted or ground circuit) you should replace the breaker as you have no idea how much current has passed through the breaker and if it is capable of protecting the circuit in the event of another fault. And before anyone says.....oh, it's just a little 120VAC circuit, be aware that depending on the KVA rating of the supply source and the impedance of the transformer that supplies that source, you can have 10's of thousands of AMPS available fault current......Nope, that's NOT a typo......10's of thousands of Amps.

So, resetting a breaker can be a risky proposition if it has been through a short circuit type fault or a phase to ground type fault. A mild overload trip isn't nearly as risky.........but do you know for sure which one happened?

[Jupiterstar]

The guy at rv masters found it. it was the motherboard on the refrigerator

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[SAABDOCTOR]

THANKS FOR POSTING THE FIX. GLAD YOU ARE ALL SET!