Rear Cargo Carriers

[Buffettfan]

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Cargo-Carrier/etrailer/e83YR.html

I'm thinking of adding a rear cargo carrier, leaning towards this one.
I carry a full sized floor jack with me, and when the trailer is hooked up, I can't open the tailgate fully if I need to get it out.
Fortunately, I haven't needed it. Yet.
I'm thinking the jack, my wood blocks and other goodies needed when we first pull in the CG, on the rack, easier to get to.
What all do I need to consider?

TIA!

[Canonman]

Do NOT attach anything you want to keep on the bumper/sewer hose carrier.
The metal is way to thin to support any real weight especially weight that is cantilevered behind the attachment points. The thin metal of the bemper WILL tear and the load will be in jeopardy not to mention the other folks sharing the road.
Best attachment is a 2" receiver hitch mounted to the frame of your trailer. Then choose the carrier to attach to the receiver.

[dutchmensport]

Not a good idea for all the reasons Canonman stated above.

Check out some of these images:

Click here.

[travelin texans]

X3!
That bumper was designed to carry the weight of your sewer hose & not very good for that. Once it gets moisture inside from the sewer hose it begins to rust it then rubs holes in the hose.
If you want your stuff to arrive at the same place you do, rather than in the ditch or someone's grill, DO NOT carry anything mounted on that flimsy bumper.

[Buffettfan]

Point taken!
If everyone says its a bad idea, I tend to believe it!

I mistakenly thought this model had brackets that bolted to the frame.
It does, but they support the bumper to keep it from failing as you all described, and not the rack itself.
So, the thin bumper material is still being stressed beyond it's intended use.

So, I'd also considered buying one of the Harbor Freight aluminum floor jacks. Much lighter than the current steel jack.
Somewhat still on topic, what do you guys carry for a trailer jack and are there other add on cargo carry options?

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Buffettfan

Point taken!
If everyone says its a bad idea, I tend to believe it!

I mistakenly thought this model had brackets that bolted to the frame.
It does, but they support the bumper to keep it from failing as you all described, and not the rack itself.
So, the thin bumper material is still being stressed beyond it's intended use.

So, I'd also considered buying one of the Harbor Freight aluminum floor jacks. Much lighter than the current steel jack.
Somewhat still on topic, what do you guys carry for a trailer jack and are there other add on cargo carry options?

if you have absolutely no other room for the jack maybe you could buy a BAL hideaspare and rig up something to hold the jack

[Canonman]

I would use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-T...534212847&th=1 The Trailer Aid Tandem Tire Changing Ramp.
If a jack is really needed/desired, a 4 ton bottle jack has worked for me. Either are light weight and easy to store.

[Lee]

Originally Posted by Buffettfan

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Cargo-Carrier/etrailer/e83YR.html

I carry a full sized floor jack with me, and when the trailer is hooked up, I can't open the tailgate fully if I need to get it out.

TIA!

Is the reason you can't open the tailgate due to it hitting the tongue jack?

I had the same problem and solved it by rotating the jack 90* to the side.

[dutchmensport]

Originally Posted by Buffettfan

...
Somewhat still on topic, what do you guys carry for a trailer jack and are there other add on cargo carry options?

Having had tires replaced once on my Montana Fifth Wheel, and then ended up scaring one of them, I wanted a sure-fire safe way to raise the tires before taking it to the tire shop and having them do something stupid, like put the jack directly on the axle (which they seem to love to try to do).

Canonman (above post) pointed out the Trailer-aid. It was actually this same item that inspired me to make something of my own for my current fifth wheel. Those Trailer-aids are simply too short to raise my other tire off the ground. I needed something much taller, but the concept is good. Also, even though I had tires replaced at a semi-truck repair/tire service center, their floor jacks were not tall enough to lift the trailer frame enough to get the tires actually off the ground. The frame is just too high off the ground.

But ... "Necessity is the mother of invention"...

Here's some photos of what I came up with and how I transport it now.











Of course, my Montana came factory with that Bal tire carrier already mounted under the trailer with the spare tire.

I keep that chunk of wood attached permanently there now. Since these photos were taken, I painted that chunk of wood black so it's not so noticeable riding there. It now blends in with the rest of the black frame.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

Having had tires replaced once on my Montana Fifth Wheel, and then ended up scaring one of them, I wanted a sure-fire safe way to raise the tires before taking it to the tire shop and having them do something stupid, like put the jack directly on the axle (which they seem to love to try to do).

Canonman (above post) pointed out the Trailer-aid. It was actually this same item that inspired me to make something of my own for my current fifth wheel. Those Trailer-aids are simply too short to raise my other tire off the ground. I needed something much taller, but the concept is good. Also, even though I had tires replaced at a semi-truck repair/tire service center, their floor jacks were not tall enough to lift the trailer frame enough to get the tires actually off the ground. The frame is just too high off the ground.

But ... "Necessity is the mother of invention"...

Here's some photos of what I came up with and how I transport it now.











Of course, my Montana came factory with that Bal tire carrier already mounted under the trailer with the spare tire.

I keep that chunk of wood attached permanently there now. Since these photos were taken, I painted that chunk of wood black so it's not so noticeable riding there. It now blends in with the rest of the black frame.

In the 1st couple pictures, what happened to the feet off of the levelers?
If you have the 6 point auto level system you can use it to raise all 4 tires at once if needed. That system is rated for much more than the weight of your rv, jack stands would be recommended.
Mine sat for 4 days on the jacks, no tires/wheels, with 4 jack stands under the axles waiting for replacement brake backing plates, it felt plenty stable inside.

[Buffettfan]

Thanks for all the great input!

I think I'll put together a ramp like Dutch has and augment it with a bottle jack and jack stands, just in case.

Lee, yep, the tongue jack is the issue. Ours is an LCI electric. It's a fixed mount, no moving it.

Plenty of room in the bed, just not easy to get the jack out with the tailgate closed, and I'd HATE to trash the top of the bedside!

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Buffettfan

Thanks for all the great input!

I think I'll put together a ramp like Dutch has and augment it with a bottle jack and jack stands, just in case.

Lee, yep, the tongue jack is the issue. Ours is an LCI electric. It's a fixed mount, no moving it.

Plenty of room in the bed, just not easy to get the jack out with the tailgate closed, and I'd HATE to trash the top of the bedside!

i actually used my lynx levelers to make a ramp to change the tires …i always have a bunch of pieces of 2x12 s that i use under my level jacks that i can add to it if needed…but the block ramp he made is nicer

[Max23]

Great idea, I have plenty of scrap wood laying around to easily make that. Thanks.!! Saves a bunch of money!

[dutchmensport]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

In the 1st couple pictures, what happened to the feet off of the levelers?
If you have the 6 point auto level system you can use it to raise all 4 tires at once if needed. That system is rated for much more than the weight of your rv, jack stands would be recommended.
Mine sat for 4 days on the jacks, no tires/wheels, with 4 jack stands under the axles waiting for replacement brake backing plates, it felt plenty stable inside.

When I first purchased my Montana, I attempted to raise the trailer off the ground by using the jacks. My jacks are electric, no hydraulic. My jacks struggled tremendously to actually "lift" the trailer up and the motors were under such a load, I stopped the process and never attempted to do it again.

I understand hydraulic jacks can easily do this, but if electric, I think there's just not enough strength there to do that.

About those missing foot pads. Mine simply slide up on the jack shaft from the bottom, a pin is inserted through the holes and a clip is attached to hold it in place. It's a great idea until ....... you drag on one on the ground, not realizing it and 200 miles further down the road you realize the pad is missing. Then you order a new pad at the tune of over $50 for a single pad. Well, after that, I decided to simply remove them when actually traveling and I've never lost another one that way. And yes, this happened the 2nd trip out after we purchased it brand new.

That's why they are removed in the photos above.

[apachewolf]

Why not get a bottle jack? They come in many sizes and take up very little room, and they are relatively inexpensive. Probably around $ 40-60. It can be used both for the TV and the trailer. They are available from almost any Hardware store, HD, Lowes or Tracktor Supply store.

Happy camping.

[Spritnsky]

Everyone on here will say Do Not Attach to rear bumper. It is possible to do so. I have done it. You have to beef up the bumper. Amazon has what you need. I have my storage box on one side and my generator on other. Generator is 85 lbs full of fuel and storage box is 70 lbs. With the added bracelets and aluminum base it all weights 185 lbs. I have been all across southern, eastern, western states. We are full time in travel trailer going 3years. I check it every so often. So far not a problem. No cracks , bent down, nothing. But that is me. When I reinforce something it is usually over kill which is a good thing. I'm not telling anyone to do this. Just that it is possible.

[Canonman]

Originally Posted by Spritnsky

Everyone on here will say Do Not Attach to rear bumper. It is possible to do so. I have done it. You have to beef up the bumper. Amazon has what you need. I have my storage box on one side and my generator on other. Generator is 85 lbs full of fuel and storage box is 70 lbs. With the added bracelets and aluminum base it all weights 185 lbs. I have been all across southern, eastern, western states. We are full time in travel trailer going 3years. I check it every so often. So far not a problem. No cracks , bent down, nothing. But that is me. When I reinforce something it is usually over kill which is a good thing. I'm not telling anyone to do this. Just that it is possible.

So I have to ask, why not just install a frame mounted receiver hitch and not worry about it? Is it purely a cost issue? I'm sure what's being carried, generator, tools, bicycles etc. are worth the added security but that's just my thinking.

[Buffettfan]

Originally Posted by Canonman

So I have to ask, why not just install a frame mounted receiver hitch and not worry about it? Is it purely a cost issue? I'm sure what's being carried, generator, tools, bicycles etc. are worth the added security but that's just my thinking.

My only issue with the receiver route is ground clearance.
As it stands, I have to be very careful backing in to our driveway to not drag the rear bumper and stabilizers.
It's a challenging task, to say the least. The street in front of us is a 30 degree incline, we have a mailbox and telephone box one one side and a stone retaining wall on the opposite side.
I've already cut one groove in the new asphalt drive, I really don't want to cut another!
The main reason for the carrier was I didn't want to have to attempt to get the floor jack out of the bed of the truck without being able to open the tailgate.
I'm thinking the bottle jack route may be the way to go.

[beranekdean]

Has anyone had any luck or seen the Mount-N-Lock safety straps that go around the sewer tube and fasten to the frame ahead of the tube? Was considering using them to put a carrier on my last trailer but never got it done.

[travelin texans]

They will do a great job of strengthening the welds by moving the stress points a 1/2" further away. The thin flimsy metal bumper is just as thin & flimsy on either side of the Mount n Lick devices as it is at the welds.
Take the $75 & have a welding shop fabricate a real bumper or a frame mounted hitch.