All you guys with ducted air look here

Terrydactile · 11-19-2009, 01:47 PM

While servicing my A/C today I found out something very interesting. I had removed the inside trim piece and was looking up inside at the fins to see if they needed to be brushed clean. They were super clean. Upon further looking around in there I found were the insulation board connects to the output side of the A/C to form the duct work going to the registers in the ceiling. Well, the problem is that the tape that Keystone used to seal that duct to the A/C unit either was loose or non-existent. You could see that since these are not sealed well that cool air would just be blowing into the space between the ceiling board and the roof. (attic if you will)

My A/C has always done a super job even in 100 degree high humidity situations but after I reseal that duct work to the A/C I know it will do a lot better or run less often. At any rate it will be fixed and sealed like it should be.

Now I'm wondering if the joints I can't see in the ceiling are taped correctly. Maybe someday when I gotta take down the ceiling for some reason I'll see.

You guys might want to have a look at yours. Just a suggestion.

Flyguy · 11-19-2009, 03:25 PM

For those of you that would like help in getting to those ducts, read this maintenance tip: http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Air%20Co...aintenance.pdf

Terrydactile · 11-25-2009, 09:44 AM

Original poster here.

Got the ducts in the A/C sealed up and wow what a difference in air flow at the vents.

I went on to further inspect the vents by removing the covers. Boy what a mess...same cheap tape job. Tape is falling off and was never completely sealing off the vents to the duct work. Further more after removing the vent covers at the ends of the run I found that the end of the duct is sealed off with just tape. The same cheap tape used on everything else. Guess what....its coming off too.

I am going to seal off the vents with some quality tape and I think I'm going to stuff a piece of closed cell foam cut to fit up the vent and into the end of the duct runs to block that off. I can't get to the ends to retape.

What do you guys think about using the closed cell foam in the duct work to block it off? Should I use something else? What ever is used has to be inserted up thru the vent hole and then positioned correctly in the duct to block it off.

If I ever (and I hope I never do) have the roof off I'll fix it the way it should have been done at the factory. My A/C will never be the same.

FlyGuy...You better check those ducts on your Passport.

Flyguy · 11-25-2009, 11:25 AM

They didn't do a bad job on my ducts, could have been better, but I did check the registers and they're all fine, the only thing that I corrected was one duct seal at the unit itself, wasn't too bad, they just didn't push down the tape ends after they X cut for the opening so I did and used more tape on top of what was already there. I think that closed cell foam would be just fine for what you want to do, I don't see anything wrong with that idea. If anyone is looking for the manuals for the A/C unit you will find them on my homepage in the A/C folder.

08-02-2010, 08:48 AM

I just re-taped all my vents and the duct work at the unit itself. I was pushing lots of cool air into the attic. Everyone should check this on their units! This is an example of poor workmanship.

therink · 08-04-2010, 04:10 PM

I also retaped all of my vents and plentum. Have done this on every trailer I've owned. Always needed to be done, not exactly a QC checklist item at the factory. Lol. While looking up into the ac unit, I noticed that the elec control box was about to fall off. It is supposed to be held in place with two wing nuts. One was all the way off and the other was half way loose. The trailer is only 4 months old. Another QC oversight by Gilligan. Lesson learned, check your wing nuts. Happy camping.

manley · 08-10-2010, 04:44 AM

This must be my problem...
I have an '09 Cougar X-lite, and the Air blows 42*. Unfortunately, however, in broad sunlight and south Georgia/north Florida humidity, the best it can manage on a hot day is about 84* inside the camper. I've taped up a good bit of it, but guess that I need to go even further.

Terrydactile · 08-10-2010, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manley

This must be my problem...
I have an '09 Cougar X-lite, and the Air blows 42*. Unfortunately, however, in broad sunlight and south Georgia/north Florida humidity, the best it can manage on a hot day is about 84* inside the camper. I've taped up a good bit of it, but guess that I need to go even further.

It very well could be. I pulled off the vent covers and boy what a mess. It looked like someone cut the access hole for the vent in the ducts with an axe. I had trouble taping them up the gaps were so big. Another thing I did was to block up the duct just after the last vent on each run because the ends were taped up poorly as well. I just couldn't get access to retape them so I just blocked the ducts by inserting a piece of closed cell foam up through the last vent in the run and wedging it in. Worked perfect. It made a big difference.

Good luck.

manley · 08-10-2010, 07:56 AM

Interesting that you mention that about the end of the runs, I had the same thought about the closed-cell foam, and actually have it on the list to pick up at Wal-Mart. Did you put anything "over" the foam, or just depend on that to block the flow beyond the last vent? I had wondered about taping a piece of cardboard in the duct as well.

Another interesting note, I had pulled off one of the surround-sound speakers to work on, and actually had COLD AIR coming out the hole the wires run through.

Terrydactile · 08-10-2010, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manley

Interesting that you mention that about the end of the runs, I had the same thought about the closed-cell foam, and actually have it on the list to pick up at Wal-Mart. Did you put anything "over" the foam, or just depend on that to block the flow beyond the last vent? I had wondered about taping a piece of cardboard in the duct as well.

Another interesting note, I had pulled off one of the surround-sound speakers to work on, and actually had COLD AIR coming out the hole the wires run through.

I actually used a piece of foam pipe insulation. You know the round kind that you install around pipes. I measured the height of the duct and found a piece that was slightly bigger in diameter, cut it to the right length and carefully fed it up into the vent and worked it back into the duct a little. Worked perfect. It stays in place because it is wedged in the duct.

sloopdog 1 · 08-10-2010, 01:55 PM

Been out in the NC heat and humidity retapeing the ac vent seals.Two were kinda sealed, two were sealed right as the lunch break bell sounded.Now all four are sealed like they should be..I propped up the air duct as far in as I could reach with pieces of styrofoam cut to 3/4 wide X 1-1/2 tall X 2 inches long.This seems to improve the airflow considerately.Next will be checking the area where the air exits the coil into the duct.
UPDATE---The area under the coil where the air exits the coil and enters the duct was a total ruin.Who ever did this was not in top form that day.Spent about two hours sealing the ducts and plenum to make sure it didn't loose any air to the area between the roof and the ceiling of the camper.A world of difference.I know that every leak that I sealed helped the A C, and there was a bunch.The airflow from the vents feels twice as strong as before.

Flyguy · 08-10-2010, 02:40 PM

For those who are interested in how to check the AC ducts at the unit itself you might want to download this article: http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Air%20Co...aintenance.pdf

jimbob · 08-11-2010, 06:35 AM

The pipe insulation is good but it may/will eventually loose it's memory. I would suggest using some good foil A/C tape to seal it and keep from moving. I have a 2010 Fuzion 302 TEII, I had major cool air leaks at all of the ceiling registers into the attic. Again seal with extreme cold foil tape. Home Depot or Lowes. If you use foam board, it must be closed cell, I use Styrofoam or some call it Blue Board. Don't use the foil faced foam board. Most will absorb water and then mold.

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