Common question

[raybo]

Hey Guys...in a bit of a time crunch so I thought I would put this question out there as I do not fully understand the variables involved. I have an opportunity to buy another trailer but, as is common, cannot wrap my brain around the weight numbers. The unit has a GVWR of 7546 lbs and a GAWR of 3500 for each of the 2 axles. My '18 F150 has a GCWR of 14400 lbs and a GAWR of 3600(F) and 3800(R). Also my tires have a Max load of 2755. Can I safely tow this camper or do I need more info? I understand that there multiple are threads dedicated to this subject but I am struggling to know for sure...Thx

[chuckster57]

What is the GVWR of your truck? Towing ratings are just a marketing ploy. You need to know how much weight you can put in the truck.

Take your truck to a scale with everything you would have if you were headed to the campground. Subtract that from the GVWR for a quick starting point.

[sourdough]

What your truck can "carry" (tow ratings mean nothing) is the gvwr (posted on a sticker inside your door) minus the scaled weight of the truck (fully loaded as you intend to go camping with all people etc.). I lieu of that there is a white and yellow sticker inside your driver door that gives you the payload, or "carrying" capacity, of your particular vehicle as a good starting point. What is that? Take the gvwr of the trailer (7546) and multiply by 13% for approximate tongue weight; 7546 x .13 = 981lbs. Subtract 981 lbs. from the payload number on the door, what is that?

[wiredgeorge]

Another way to look at this is that if your prospective camper is a bumper pull and based on the gross weight, it will had a tongue weight of just under 1000 lbs. add passenger weight, stuff in truck and hitch weight. Say another 600 lbs? 1600 lbs payload. Yellow/white placard in your door frame tells you max payload you truck can safely and legally handle. This is a payload placard:

[raybo]

Originally Posted by sourdough

What your truck can "carry" (tow ratings mean nothing) is the gvwr (posted on a sticker inside your door) minus the scaled weight of the truck (fully loaded as you intend to go camping with all people etc.). I lieu of that there is a white and yellow sticker inside your driver door that gives you the payload, or "carrying" capacity, of your particular vehicle as a good starting point. What is that? Take the gvwr of the trailer (7546) and multiply by 13% for approximate tongue weight; 7546 x .13 = 981lbs. Subtract 981 lbs. from the payload number on the door, what is that?

The payload sticker says 1811 lbs, so if I understand you guys the I subtract 981 lbs and the difference of 830 is the safe max for luggage, people food ect ect? That seems pretty straight-forward. So with the tires at 2755 X 4 giving me about 15000 lbs then should I upgrade my tires? Or is that even relevant for towing? Also does a weight distribution hitch matter? thanks to you all for the quick replies

[wegone]

Originally Posted by raybo

The payload sticker says 1811 lbs, so if I understand you guys the I subtract 981 lbs and the difference of 830 is the safe max for luggage, people food ect ect? That seems pretty straight-forward. So with the tires at 2755 X 4 giving me about 15000 lbs then should I upgrade my tires? Or is that even relevant for towing? Also does a weight distribution hitch matter? thanks to you all for the quick replies

800 pounds is easy to hit quickly.

Seems you are very close to max.

These guys are experts, but I love pulling with a 20% and more cushion margin.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by raybo

The payload sticker says 1811 lbs, so if I understand you guys the I subtract 981 lbs and the difference of 830 is the safe max for luggage, people food ect ect? That seems pretty straight-forward. So with the tires at 2755 X 4 giving me about 15000 lbs then should I upgrade my tires? Or is that even relevant for towing? Also does a weight distribution hitch matter? thanks to you all for the quick replies

Yes, the WDH does matter. You want the best you can afford with sway control. At 30'+ & at that weight you'll be glad you did towing with a 1/2 ton truck.
Also the weight of that hitch, typically 100+/-lbs, comes off the truck payload along with the tongue weight & whatever else loaded into/onto that truck.
With the hitch & tongue weight you're right at 1100lbs with nothing else in the truck.
If you're referring to the truck tires then if it's equipped with P rated (passenger) tires then yes they need upgraded to LT (light truck) tires to handle the load.
If the rv has Trailer King tires then they need replaced before you ever move the rv, their load rating is fine, but that brand of tire is just crap, a blowout waiting to happen. Be sure the rv tires are inflated to the recommended pressures as per the tag on the rv or if upgraded inflate to the pressures printed on the tire sidewall.

[wiredgeorge]

Alongwith the WDH you may want to take a look at your tires. I once owned a brand new 2013 F150 and it had passenger car tires from the factory. I added a truck camper (unaware of payload consideration in my ignorance) and the passenger car tires were obviously in jeopardy of exploding. Light truck tires are the answer and 10 ply (Load Range E) make a lot of sense. Not sure if your statement regarding max load 2755 refers to camper or truck.

[raybo]

That is on the sidewall of my truck tires

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by raybo

That is on the sidewall of my truck tires

And only good for that weight if inflated to the pressure also listed on the sidewall. Less pressure less weight more heat more squirm.

[raybo]

OK..lots of good info...I appreciate all the input guys

[skids]

Originally Posted by raybo

(snip) My '18 F150 has a GCWR of 14400 lbs and a GAWR of 3600(F) and 3800(R). (snip)

Open the driver's door and read the sticker. It gives the maximum conventional trailer...something like 9200lbs. Be careful with maximum hitch load. It will be on a sticker on the receiver. Mine says 1050lbs I think.