How bout detailing ???

[mskeyspirate]

Well first let me say that I own a 2015 Passport. Looks like the day that I bought it new, all except for that front cap. As I'm sure that you all know, that cap takes a lot more of everything ! More sun, more weather, more bugs, and the list goes on. So....I wax my camper twice a year. Spring and fall prior to storage for the winter. My issue is the paint damage on the cap. It looks faded, and weathered, losing some of it's color and brillance. So I'm a Meguirs guy, always have been, so I purchased their 3 step fiberglass/gelcoat restoration system. The short story is that it is just not up to my expectations. So I may switch another product...maybe Mothers, or similar. But after the restoration of the coating, have any of you applied a Ceramic Coating ? If so, what are the results ? Good, bad, how long does it last ? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[sourdough]

I will let others respond to the ceramic coating as I have no experience with it, but I do with that fading.

I believe your trailer was made prior to them painting the front caps with automotive paint. The color is part of the gel coat and is very prone to fade. When mine did (2014 Cougar High Country) the service manager said there was not any way to "restore" it to like new (this was just prior to the 1 year warranty expiration). He advised the only way to do it was paint the cap with automotive grade paint and clearcoat it which he did. Made a huge difference and looked brand new 5 years later. Just an fyi as an alternative if you get tired of "waxing".

[mskeyspirate]

Thanks Sourdough, I appreciate the advice. I have thought about the auto paint/clearcoat option, but am just determined at this point to whip this problem. Not that next spring I won't go with the option you mention. I do have to disagree with the person that told you there are is no way to repair/fix my problem. I have brought this back to a like new finish except for a slight film on a few spots that are only visible when looking from the side. Thinking that I am switching to Mothers products. I may be going to a body shop to get that estimate very soon though.

[sourdough]

I think the issue is that the degradation is not just like a "surface" finish that deteriorates but more the finish/paint is IN the gel coat so you can polish the surface and make it look better but you can't fix the degradation that's IN/permeates into the finish. Good luck on trying to shine it up. I did that on my last trailer, swinging that heavy buffer around, more than I really wanted to. After falling and destroying both rotator cuffs I decided me, that ladder and the buffer didn't play too well together. Here's a link to another product that might be of benefit. I've never seen it or used it;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irClyJb-vOE

[bsmith0404]

The Marine 31 is good stuff. It’s a DAT product which stands for diminishing abrasive technology. Basically the abbess hive start out fairly large (still microscopic) and as you work it, they diminish to smaller abrasives. That allows for a heavier cut to remove the oxidation, then as they diminish, they start to polish to remove any scratches/hazing left from the heavy cut. There are other products out there that do the same, but the Marine 31 works very well. You have to use a polisher to work the product enough to break down the abrasives. I also use the flex 3401, but it’s not cheap. Probably not worth the price for the average person, I do detailing so I paid for the best. HF actually sells a RO polisher that worked pretty well. BTW, all of this stuff is available at autogeek.com. That’s where I buy most of my detailing products from. Mike has a bunch of videos demonstrating other products on the autogeek website as well.

[mskeyspirate]

I know that it may be hard to make out. But you can kind of see the before and after, upper 1/3 not done, the lower has been done. But maybe you can see the spots that I'm talking about. And that part is product related. I didn't think that the results overall were not bad. But want more even results.

[bsmith0404]

What are you using for a polisher and pad with the megs?

[mskeyspirate]

Random orbital buffer sold by Chemical Guys. With a medium foam pad, microsoft towels to buff off.

[bsmith0404]

Not a bad polisher, similar to the Porter cable. What pad? Also, one thing I do with these types of polishers is put a marker line on the backing plate. Then you can actually tell how fast the pad is rotating. You want to keep just enough pressure so the pad continues to rotate at a decent speed. It’s real easy to press too hard, stop the rotation and not be able to tell. I like to use 5” pads or smaller with those polishers. Gives it more power. I actually use 3” pads on mine.

[gearhead]

X2 on auto geek.
You may also try 3M Marine Restorer and Wax. It’s a bit pricey and it’s not magic.
Try using a wool pad. The twisted wool pads seem to be more aggressive.
I’ve had good luck with the old Meguairs Cleaner Wax in the dark red bottle. Cheap and at WalMart.

[bsmith0404]

One good thing, the surface you’re working on is very forgiving. You can use a wool pad and really cut into the oxidation. Using wool pads on auto paint will require follow up with lighter cut to remove the haze/swirls. You can probably get away without that on an rv. Worst case scenario is you follow up with a lighter cut pad and polish.

Personally, I’ve never been a big fan of megs, it finishes nice, but too much dusting imo. I really like Black Fire and Pinnacle products, but they’re pricey. I have a jar of midnight sun ivory carnauba wax that’s $70. Looks amazing on the truck and vette. I wouldn’t run out and buy that for the RV, just not going to get the kind of finish on that surface to make the price difference worth it.

[gearhead]

^Agree 100% on Pinnacle. Pretty good carnuba. Should make a fine finishing touch. Lots of depth.